haneto

My 3rd work finished in 2020 is this little diorama, a corner of late 80s airport in China. Kit: Daco Skyline 1/144 737-300 Accessories: Extratech 1/144 737-300 photo-etching part Extratech 1/144 airport luggage traitor photo-etching part Preiser 1/144 airport crew Preiser 1/144 bicycles Authentic Airliners 1/144 737 3D window decal Authentic Airliners 1/144 737 vortex generator Mixture of several CAAC decals Thanks for watching. Please stay safe and build models! Yufei Mao

They fit perfectly.

My 2nd work of 2020 is this little gem. Hope everyone's safe staying at home to build your kits! Kit: Zvezda 1/48 4821 Accessories: Micro Design photo etching part Advanced Modelling 1/48 KAB-500L bombs Advanced Modelling 1/48 KAB-500Kr bombs Master 1/72 F-14A pitot tube(early style) Master 1/48 Sukhoi type static dischargers A very well researched and designed kit by Zvezda. Fitting is also fantastic. But the surface is a bit too simple, only with some raised rivets and recessed panel lines a bit too wide. I also made a video by my crappy iPhone and you can watch it if interested: Yak-130 Light Ground-attack Aircraft Diorama Yakovlev Design Bureau Vintage Scheme Demo Scheme Thanks for watching and stay safe! Yufei

1. More rivets means more expensive on mold investment and also time consuming. Then price will have to be increased. 2. Especially in modern CAD mold cutting technics, raised rivets are even more expensive than recessed rivets to be made on molds. Guess that's the main reasons.

Some work in progress pictures recorded by my cell phone, if you are interested. Thanks for looking.

First finished work in Rat Year, during past several weeks at home because of the coronusvirus which prohibited going out and extension of Lunar New Year holidays in China. In Chinese culture, red means celebration so I hope the special moment could be settled down ASAP. Kit: Airifx: front fuselage+windshield+canopy, Italeri: other parts. Aftermarket: Master 1/48 metal pitot tube Reedoak 3D scan 1/48 camera man

I have made quite a number of aircraft models so I'm very confident not mixing ADV with GR... https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/profile/2443-haneto/content/&type=forums_topic&change_section=1

Hi mates I'm planning to build my Eduard rebox version of the titled kit. Before starting I searched several finished kit pictures online, but found the Revell F.3 nose looks very weird. My first assumtion is, the nose cone is too long compared with real life pictures. Just curious if any one else has any research result to prove my observation? Or any real life measurement to evaluate the Revell kit nosecone? Thanks all in advance.

A collaboration work by Mr. Kenji Yanai (Japan) and Yufei Mao (China) Kit: Kinetic Kinetic KNE48086 Aftermarket accessories: KA Models 3D print GE F110 engine nozzle Master metal pitot tube + AoA Master metal F-16 static dischargers Reskit resin F-16A wheels AIM-9M, AIM-120A：GWH 1/48 F-15 kit GBU-12, Mk 82：AMK 1/48 US weapon set 370 galon fuel tank：Tamiya 1/48 F-16 kit Pylons：Kinetic 1/48 F/A-18C kit Pilots：Tamiya 1/48 F-14A kit（heads）+Tamiya 1/48 F-16 kit（bodies, etc.）

Thanks all. It's the Sh*tty hawk kit. Most of small parts have been replaced by GWH Su-35 parts, and other by resin aftermarket goods. Only fuselage, wings, windshield, stabilizers etc. are from original kit parts.

Accessories used: GWH 1/48 Su-35 kit small parts replace orginal kit parts GWH 1/48 R-77 missile+AKU-170 pylon*2 GWH 1/48 KAB-1500L bomb+BD4-UMSK pylon*3 Advanced Modelling 1/48 resin B-13L rocket lancher*4 Advanced Modelling 1/48 resin twin launcher*2 Reskit 1/48 resin FAB-250M-64 bomb*12 Reskit 1/48 resin MBD3-U6-68 multi bomb racks*2 Reskit 1/48 Su-34 resin wheels+mud guard Zactomodels 1/48 Su-34 resin ECM pods Master 1/48 Su-34 pitot tube G-Factor brass landing gears Begemot 1/48 Su-34 decal Modelkasten Flanker Color Set 1 & 2 My suggestion is to replace as more parts as you can find from aftermarket goods/GWH kits for this kit. Very pooly researched/designed kit, most panel lines/rivets are fictional and cannot be found in Begmot decal instruction sheet. Main dish is the weapon ordance, aircraft is just appetizer so I did not spend too much time on it.

Here is the recipe for the upcoming L4823 new tooled weapons.

It is sold for JPY4000(without domestic cosumer tax which is 8%) as the white box version in the event. According to Tamiya's regular practice the whilte box price will be same as th final formal version, so I assume 1/48 P-38 retail price will be JPY4000.- Just my 2 cents.

**No traders except in a dedicated area ** ** NO EBAY **

Thanks Paul. Yes I have plan to make a North Korea MiG-29 9-13 in very near future... Yufei

This kit has the feature to allow canopy switch between open and close mode. The merit is very obvious: 1. easy to carry and maintenance. 2. you can always enjoy cockpit details and beautiful outline of the Flanker. Some pictures of finished diorama took by audience at Shanghai New Year Model Contest on 31st Dec and 1st Jan 2019. Will take more formal pics outside during the China Lunar New Year holidays. Finale.

Thanks for your feedback and encouraging. Russian planes are quite complicated for painting and weathering, especially Flanker family. I can make 3 F-15s instead of only 1 Flanker... Final pics are for carrying hints. I bought biggest aluminium case which is allowed to be carried into cabin, full of 1.5*1.5cm precut pieces of sponge. You only take out the unnecessary sponge piece to match the model outline. Tried the case to bring it to Shanghai New Year Model Contest and it showed perfect protection for the model. Will use this case for my attendance to Shizuoka Hobby Show this May.

I used micro magnets, again, to hold figures on diorama base.

Time for diorama accessories. PLAAF use some special numbering rules than RusAF, which is also another fun to research within limited references!

As I mentioned in previous reply, cut some material from the install pins, could greatly enhance the assembling of intake/engine parts on fuselage. Look, seamless! Still 2 gaps over wing root, needs to be filled/sanded/painted. No compromise for a geniune air modeller!! I glued wheels at last, to assure all weighted wheels flat surface attach the absolutely flat glass seamless. These tiny skills could greatly improve your model overall finish effect. Devils are in Details!

Go on. Check the different texture on surface! All parts painting/weathering done. Ready for final assembling.

Some details were also painted. Since the PLAAF Su-35 are brand new, parked in hangar and very well maintenanced, I made very little weathering on it. But still my friend who works in PLAAF was not happy enough and commented "it's still not clean enough!". Well in a world where people are use to heavey taste fast food, maybe it's too clean to catch some people's attention, haha! Another word I'd like to emphasize is that I used different texture paint on different areas on the plane. Gloss, semi-gloss, flat, metalic, etc. Why bother that much? Because the real aircraft is just like that! Different paint just has different texture on the real life and I must replicate them after studying so many photos! That's the fun of modelling, isn't it?

Stabilizers are bit more complex. On different angles the metal reflection effect is very different, which is more challenging but also interesting. My first thought is to use some laser reflection sheet, but I hate the sheet may come off over several years and painting on the sheet is really no fun. So finally I still decide the paint the effect as more conservative but steady way. And done.

Same logic for the upper side engine naccel. Vs real life.

Next is the naked bare metal burnt effect on engine naccels. Many may think it quite headache to replicate but I believe after careful studying on the real life photos, you can find some hints and regular pattern for them. For example, the number of the obvious burnt "lines" on the panels, is same on every aircraft. That is because of the factory manufacture process and AF-41F engine heating features are always SAME. So some quantization work(base color and pattern on panels), plus some sensibility work (weathring effect) will make this replication much easier. Yes, thinking by brain before making by fingers, is always the short cut to success. Model vs real life.