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Moa last won the day on June 8

Moa had the most liked content!

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About Moa

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    Civil planes of the Early aviation and Golden Age

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  1. HI Adrian Under certain angles the light gave away a slight bump at the seam -product of it "mounting" on the fuselage- which was not truly fixable. I could have cheated making a panel color difference to partially hide that, but decided better to do it properly. It was a risk, and could have easily ruined a day -or several-, and could have sent me in on a fruitless search for another canopy, or burden me with the task of making a male mold for a vac copy, things I am only glad to have avoided, more due to sheer luck than to dexterity. The finish is not bad, but it's not immaculate, and it will be a metal finish, which shows as we know all the little buggers, but I like to model with a sense of balance. Good enough is good enough. We go on.
  2. As the slow process of removing blemishes from the frame goes on, details are being made: Earhart plane had several changes of the loops, masts and antennas. For the last flight one of the lengthwise wire antennas on the belly was removed, leaving only the starboard side only, but the two Pitots at the front remained. Brass stems for those parts are made: Locations for those parts are drilled: Even the lead wire connection to the "V" antenna location is drilled close to the window: The exhaust stacks are made from brass: A dry run:
  3. A first coat of primer revealed that the intended fix for the bad canopy fit didn't work really well. I decided to rip it off, which wasn't easy since it was pretty well secured. More fiddling with the plastic around it on the fuselage and the canopy itself improved things. Canopies, when they are not good, are a veritable pain in the singularity: So it was glued back, hopefully this time for good. we'll see how it goes:
  4. Main body of the new radiator: Reinforcement bits on, just in case: Kit's prop and Matías Hagen's prop: Some detail on the radiator, new fuselage front, passenger section opening excised to correct to needed new shape:
  5. And yet, I measured the passenger opening, and it is perfect circle of 9.5 mm, so the fusleage thickness should be right as I cut it?: Another solution (other than packing the fuselage sides) is to slightly trim back the culprit relief on the tongue, where the pencil marks are: In order not to weaken the part, styrene sheet rectangles could be later glued inside those recesses, or alu tube or wire may be glued into those furrows. Anyways, model building -as James Schubert the Pugetian likes to say- is about problem solving:
  6. The scallops on the trailing edges are refined: The rudder is excised to facilitate detail and painting: A modified beautiful engine and propeller from Matías Hagen in Argentina are substituted for the kit's items: The halves of the rudder are glued and a metal control horn inserted: Underslung radiator in progress: Areas needed to be altered for this version are excised, the slots for the spar tongue cut open, the pedestal for the seat (I think on the plane a gas tank, iirc) is assembled: Tongue ready to be inserted for a trial: And this is why dry-runs and trials are mandatory: the fuselage sides won't close, hindered by relief detail on the tongue: And this is why: on normal vac kits the part's edge line is shown to the right, but I guess this kit needs you to cut downward, which is not very smart, since given the nature of the curvature of the heat-molded styrene, this will eventually produce a weak joint, since the contact area is minimal. If you sand it to get a flat contact surface, you remove material and are back to square one. In vacuformed kits this is no issue, since you can glue a styrene strip or sheet to pack more thickness as needed, but it's a drag nonetheless. And by the way, this is not the product of over-sanding, since the permanent marker reference line was absolutely respected:
  7. Martian, do you think you are the only extraterrestrial here?
  8. Some parts ready. The kit provides a part that acts as a cantilever spar to set the dihedral and help gluing the wings on:
  9. Hi Stuart I used cyanoacrylate to glue the internal frames to the canopy (the canopy had previously a bath on acrylic floor polish). Then to glue it to the fuselage I used white glue for the front and base, and cyano for the back (the part that touches the fuselage top). Let's hope it will hold. As you can see, it went through some manipulation and knocking around during sanding of the fuselage seams and so far no problems. Later I will tackle the top seam of the canopy itself.
  10. The cumbersome and ungainly Hansa seaplanes family has nonetheless some charm and appeal, and I had build so far two on Japanese civil registrations some time ago, if of another Hansa denomination (W.29): Browsing the Net I found some images of a civil machine that flew for the Tiedemann tobacco company. Tiedemann had a very smart marketing department then, and the company owned a number of vehicles that wore the company's colors and symbols in very striking, well-produced and elegant schemes. Here the plane on Flickr: At some point they used for publicity purposes this Hansa W.33 seaplane that they named "Tiger" -that was by the way the company's mascot- that had on the tail the Norwegian colors, and on the fuselage the stripes of the tiger, that cunningly matched the colors of the company land vehicles, painted as "wrapped" on a number of carefully reproduced tobacco leaves of different hues. Looking for a suitable kit candidate I found the Broplan vacuum-formed offer. Broplan kits are not what you call affordable, and their accessories in injected plastic can only be described as crude. No decals either. The struts come molded, but four of the smaller struts are undefined. Broplan doesn't include a diagram with the correct lengths of those parts, vital for alignment. The plan included in the instructions is, for some unfathomable reason, not in 1/72 scale, so no measures or references can be taken from it. Many of those injected parts will be replaced with better parts anyway. On the other hand, the vacuum-formed parts are correctly molded, the plastic has a reasonable and even thickness, and reasonable surface detail is there. But hey, this is no mainstream kit of powerful manufacturer, so you have to make certain allowances, although let it be said: there are very good vacuformed kits, so the media is not an excuse. But enough: res, non verba; let's get at it. Two modifications are needed to convert this kit to the Tiedemann machine: 1) The nose has to be modified as the intended plane had an underslung radiator, a blanked front, another engine, and an open nose top. 2) The aft position was of course "civilianized" and had no scarf ring, therefore it's cleaner on the top following the natural shape of the fuselage, and having a half-round access door on the left side that was hinged at the bottom for the access of the passenger. Other minor changes in detail will apply, like prop and such. The package: Contents of the bag: Instructions: Surface detail on parts: The injected bits: Permanent marked used to trace parts contour. If you think that you may get confused, especially with the smaller parts, you can use the permanent marker to put their numbers (from the instructions sheet) or name on their internal surfaces: Some will need additional cuts from inside: Parts separated from backing sheet: The injected bits plus clear material for windshields: Parts separated: Cleaned up: Although I will not use this engine I will assemble it for the sake of review: Kind of rough: Here is why you need that permanent marker line, to know where to stop sanding: Vacs require careful, measured and extensive sanding to look right: Thin trailing edges are the goal: Sanding of parts up to the marker line completed: The parts: Changes needed here for this version: Some gluing begins:
  11. Canopy glued on, first application of putty on the seams and preliminary sanding:
  12. Amelia's tailwheel had a tarp or leather dust cover, absent on the kit's part, so one is fabricated: Whilst looking at photos, I noticed a tie-down in the vicinity, so one was made too:
  13. And just in case you find yourself in the same predicament, normal styrene glue will not work. Sigh...