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Bill.B

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Everything posted by Bill.B

  1. I've just finished one of these and for an old kit it goes together quite well with a decent amount of detail. The only modifications I did were to add a lock on top of the roof (which is very prominent on the full size), add a petrol cap and cut the glass section from the doors. The paints are Tamiya Acrylics, but I'm not too impressed with the Liquid Chrome pen on the glass frame parts and if I did the model again I'd simply mask off the glass and use Tamiya rubber black.
  2. Wow! 😮 Great weathering in the cockpit. 😎 👍
  3. Hard to believe it's only 1/72! Very nicely done indeed. 👍
  4. Thanks very much for the kind words Pete and a good call on the sit of the model, I hadn't even noticed it.
  5. This is the Wolfpack 1/48 P47D (old Hasegawa kit?) kitted out in the Brazilian airforce colours as flown by Ten. Alberto Martins Torres, Red Squadron, 1st GAVCA (Fighter Aviation Group) Italy, 1944. The kit is built completely OOB using Tamiya paints with Windsor & Newton Matt acrylic varnish. I must admit that I'd never heard of Wolfpack models before so it was a really nice surprise to find the kit easy to assemble and one of the few that didn't cause me any problems at all.
  6. Wanting a rest from building aircraft I dug out a 1/35 Zvezda Tiger out of the stash to try some new weathering techniques and as a result this is simply a test vehicle, not a cabinet Queen, although I don't think it's too shabby. It's built from the box apart from the Friulmodel tracks and Aber aerial which I salvaged from an earlier kit that eventually ended up in the recycling. Paints are a mixture of Tamiya and Vallejo, Humbrol weathering powders and Windsor & Newton acrylic Matt varnish to seal everything in.
  7. I hope my 1/24 Hasegawa version turns out as nice. Nicely done. 👍
  8. Very nicely done and I particularly like the scheme and weathering! I have built one of these too and the kit is indeed excellent.
  9. Thank you all for the kind comments 🙂
  10. Quoted from Eduard’s instruction sheet: ‘The first unit in which the then twenty-two-year-old Lt. Carganico served after completing flight training was JG 1 at the beginning of the war. This was followed by service with JG 77 with which he saw combat in Norway and then the Battle of Britain. On January 1st, 1941, he returned to Norway where he commanded 1./JG 77. On September 25th, 1941, Carganico achieved his 27th kill and was awarded the Knight's Cross. In March 1942, Carganico's unit was redesignated as 6./JG 5 and in April 1942, he was given command of the entire II. Gruppe. On March 26th, 1944 he was given command of I./JG 5, which saw combat against Allied forces within the Defence of the Reich. On April 27th of the same year, Carganico took off for the last time. In an attack on a group of B-17s, his Bf 109G-5 was heavily damaged and during his attempt to belly in, he struck some high power lines. He did not survive the resulting crash near the French town of Chevry. His final tally consisted of sixty kills over the course of 600 sorties. Bf 109G-6/AS were assigned to the high altitude interception therefore they were camouflaged in the overall coat of RLM 76. Capt. Carganico had Mickey Mouse painted of the fuselage port side, marking carried by his previous airplanes. Starboard side is not photographically documented, it may have carried the Gruppe Commander’s double chevron marking.’
  11. Hi Keith, I left the decals for a full 24hrs. to dry out completely and then carefully lifted the corner of the decal carrier film and peeled it off very slowly with some very fine tweezers. So far this technique has work on 2 other kits, the 1/48 Eduard Zlin 526 ASF and the 1/72 Cmelak.
  12. It’s been a while since my last visit here, but I thought I’d share one of my latest efforts. This is Eduard’s Profipack 1/48 109G and is without doubt one of the nicest kits I’ve ever come across. The fit of parts is excellent, the crispness of the moulding is very good, the new style decals are truly excellent and give that ‘painted on look’ and the level of detailing with photoetch is just right for my abilities. Paints are Tamiya acrylics with Winsor & Newton Matt acrylic varnish and oil paints for weathering.
  13. It’s been a while since I made my last tank, (a T34/85 as I recall) so I thought I’d have a break from aircraft and scratch a long standing Tiger itch I’ve had. This is the Dragon Models version of an early DAK Tiger 1 and goes together really easily. It’s built out the box with the included PE, but I couldn’t resist adding a set of Friul metal tracks to add a bit of weight to the model and give a fairly authentic sag to the assembly. Paints are Tamiya acrylics, Windsor & Newton lacquers, and various washes, oils and powders have been utilised to dirty up the tank and tracks. Weathering AFV’s definitely isn’t my strong point, but it’s fun trying new methods and ideas which may, or may not be of use at a later date, and I really must try making dioramas at some point. Anyway, here it is…
  14. Thanks, and yes, they’re the flat packed photo etch guns supplied in the kit.
  15. I’ve just realised I forgot to cut and paste the finer details so please put it down to the onset of senility. 🙄 Anyway, the paints are Tamiya acrylics and Alclad metals with Windsor & Newton varnish. Various pastel powders and oils were used for subtle weathering and stretched sprue used for the rigging wires. To achieve a different tone of colour between the cowling and airframe I tried a new technique to me. The cowl was firstly airbrushed in gloss black followed by Alclad Duralumin. This was then over painted with light coats of the red until I achieved a satisfactory difference to the airframe colour. I figured that the original would have had a similar effect between the canvas and metal cowl, but without period colour documentation it’s merely a bit of artistic license on my behalf so may not be accurate at all! Finally thanks for the comments so far and the likes.
  16. I thought I’d try something different for a change so I dug out the Eduard 1/48 Fokker DR.1 from deep within the stash and got stuck in. However I did ponder over which scheme to do, but in the end decided to be boring and go with one of the Barons red schemes as it’s relatively easy to achieve. Anyway, here it is, warts and all so feel free to tell me where I can improve.
  17. Thanks for all the kind comments.
  18. This is the latest Spitfire offering from Tamiya and is probably their best aircraft kit to date IMHO. The kit goes together very easily (as might be expected) and has some nice details, but considering that a pilot is included there isn’t an option to display the model ‘wheels up’. Unfortunately some careful cutting and fettling is required as frustratingly the wheel bays aren’t deep enough to accommodate the wheels ‘up’. Because of this the wheels need to be reduced to nearly half their thickness before the undercarriage doors will sit flush. The chrome metal stand is made by Geminijets and it’s only required to drill a suitable sized hole in the wing thus enabling the Spit to be safely mounted. Paints are Tamiya acrylics, various oils and final Matt varnish are Newton & Windsor, and the 3 aerial wires are Uschi van der Rosten thread. Overall I’m pretty pleased with the final result, but I’ve since realised that maybe the oleos needed extending slightly as they are probably moulded in a ‘weight on wheels’ guise.
  19. It’s been a while since I’ve posted on here, but I’ve finally finished the Eduard Profi 1/72 Zlin 37A Čmelák I’ve been building of late. This particular registered aircraft was noted for smuggling a family from East to West Germany before the wall came down and they were placed into the cramped hopper compartment behind the cockpit for the journey. The conditions just don’t bear thinking about! The kit is really easy to build and well detailed for such a small scale, however, the instructions are incorrect on a couple of instances with regard to the decals. The ‘Z-37A’ decal should be applied under the cockpit door both sides and not omitted, and the registration on the top starboard wing should be omitted as the full sized didn’t have it. Added to this the whole of the fin and rudder should be painted red, not partially painted as per instructions, but other than this I think everything else is correct. If you want something different from the norm I can thoroughly recommend this model, especially the Profi version as there are many different photo etch selections to choose from which will enhance the model.
  20. Thanks for the very positive reply’s everyone!
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