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About CarlR

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  1. thank you all for your supportive comments. Norseman 3:16... the kit was built out of the box with the exception of additional heavier thread used to support the masts and the bowsprit
  2. Thank you for sharing these photos with us. What you've accomplished serves as an inspiration to continue my ship modeling but also clearly shows I've got such a long, long, long way to go to get anywhere near your level. Looking forward to your future posts...
  3. I was looking for a fun to assemble, no hassle kit and this one fit the bill perfectly. Clean up and assembly went smoothly with minimum requirement for paint and in no time, I had a completed model that I was more than satisfied with. If you're looking to take a break from all the fitting, filing, filling, sanding ( repeat as necessary) this one's highly recommended.
  4. Thank you all for your kind comments. dnl42 - the sails on the model are the vacuformed sails that come with the kit. I tried to create cloth sails but all my attempts were unsatisfactory. I carefully trimmed the sails and then put thin strips of Nexcare gentle paper first aid tape around the edges on both sides. The tape is very thin and helped to keep the plastic sails from splitting when I punched in holes to use in the rigging process. The white of the tape and the vacuformed sails were a close match and the resulting layers looks very much like the seams created when folding and sewing the real thing.
  5. It's been a long time since I tried my hand at building a model of a sailing vessel but I could resist no longer and succumbed to the siren call of the Revell yacht America. I enjoyed this experience so much I'm planning on an other ship at some time in the future. I'd like to think it would be either the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark or the 1/72 pirate ship but I think more realistically it will be something smaller because of time and space considerations.
  6. Going through my selection of Bandai Star Wars kits, I decided Darth Vader would be next. This is another of Bandai's excellent figures but I did not like the way the joints looked on the finished product - they are well engineered to allow the figure to be placed in multiple poses but make for an unrealistic appearance in those areas. To eliminate the "action-figure" appearance and make the the joints look more life-like, I crazy-glued them permanently into position and filled the gaps with Milliput two-part epoxy. After the epoxy had partially hardened I carved the clothing texture into the epoxy filler. Another aspect of the kit which I wasn't overly impressed with was the the multi-part depiction of Vader's cape. The resulting concessions made to the cape detracted from the appearance of the final product. I tried replacing the kit's parts with a cloth cape but I could not find a suitable substitute - either the weave of the cloth was out of scale or it wouldn't drape properly or it bunched up too much at Vader's neck. After much fitting, filing and sanding I was able to join the kit pieces into one unit and create an acceptable cape. These modifications to the kit result in a one pose only figure but I am ok with loosing that flexibility in order to get a more realistic look. Other modifications include carving the left hand clenched fist to show the base of the thumb and curled index finger and removal of the engraved cape chain clasp and replaced with a short length of jewelry chain.
  7. I never noticed - did she drive? I wasn't paying attention to the cars... seriously though, an excellent job on her transportation!
  8. excellent work - you're making me consider building this kit too... (in addition to all the others I'm going to build)!
  9. It's been almost 40 years since I purchased this kit and I've been lugging it around all this time telling myself "I will build this kit!" My daughter's interest in all things related to the deer family supplied the necessary motivation and here it is - finally!! Considering how old this kit is, it builds into quite a respectable model. The biggest hurdle I had to overcome was eliminating the seams. Where they met the joint wasn't level and getting them to the point where they were flush resulted in having a lot of the fur detail removed. Fortunately I was able to borrow a woodburning kit which had a number of fine tips and a temperature control so I put it to good use to restore the fur around the seams. Painting was done with Vallejo model color. For those who might be interested, here are the instructions...
  10. I'm more than a little late to the party but I am very pleased to add this commemorative scheme to my collection of Canadian demonstration hornets. The decal sheet was released by Fishbone Inc (https://www.facebook.com/Fishbone.Inc/). Unfortunately, as per the latest information from him, the Canada 150 decals are no longer available. (But he does have the RCAF CF-18 DemoTeam "NORAD 60th Anniversary" decals currently on offer). The Canada 150 sheet is not 100% accurate but to me it is close enough to be more than acceptable. The only real shortcoming in terms of accuracy is that the maple leafs on the outside of the tails do not recline as on the actual hornet. The decals are well printed and are strong enough to withstand the transfer from the backing paper onto the model. Where I had difficulty with these decals was convincing them to conform to the contours of the model - particularly the large maple leaf on top. Decal softeners (Micro-sol, Tamiya markfit strong, Mr Hobby Mr mark softer and Walthers Solvaset) had little to no effect. I was finally able to get that decal to do what I wanted by applying GENTLE pressure repeatedly to the decal with a small folded cloth that had been dipped in boiling water. It is recommended that you hold this folded cloth with a set of locking tweezers and shake off any excess water before applying the (very) hot cloth to the recalcitrant decal(s). Using this technique enabled me to get all of the decals to lay down properly and it seemed to assist the decal softeners to do their job too. The base model is the Academy 1/72 kit.
  11. another of Bandai's excellent Star Wars kits... an easy and pleasurable build
  12. After building two of the Bandai Star Wars robot kits earlier I thought this time I would turn my attention to AT-ST. As seems to be the norm with Bandai kits, construction/assembly went very smoothly giving one the opportunity to make painting and detailing the main focus. I am happy with how the vehicle turned out but my efforts to complete the Chewbacca figure to my liking were less than satisfactory. Now, to decide which kit I'll build next...
  13. Thank you all for your positive comments! Jbot's website (http://www.jbot.ca/welcome.shtml) indicates he is not currently taking orders but it appears he will be starting Oct 01. According to the website Jbot decals are printed on TANGO PAPA clear decal paper using ALPS MD-1000 and MD-5000 printers. They are more delicate than the commercially produced ones but a good coating of Microscale decal film and a gentler hand when applying them should make their application successful. The Perris dh6 decals include the side windows,cockpit windows, door outlines, shark's mouth and eyes and black striping that separates the white/grey areas. Also included are the prop manufacturer logos. I had to source the white propeller stripes from other sheets I had on hand. The trickiest part of this build was masking and painting the grey areas correctly so that when I applied the black stripes, they would match the outlines.
  14. This is the old Matchbox kit released under the Revell banner which comes with decals for the CAF and West Coast Air. I may yet build another kit in the CAF scheme but this time I opted to go with the Perris Skydiving colors when I found the decal sheet was available from Jbot Decals.
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