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Oompa Loompa modelers

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    A galaxy far far away
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    WW2 aviation, Star Wars, scale modeling,...

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  1. Thank you all for your kind words and I am sorry for the poor photography (we need to improve our lighting). The Airfix kit is a good kit, with some very nice features and shapes but not without some annoyances: as the vinyl-ish soft plastic, the ill-fitting of the nose clear parts and specially the appalling fitting of the wing leading edge light clear covers. The top clear hatch behind the pilot’s canopy (bad fitting) was replaced by clear plastic, sanded and polished. The B-25Bs used on the raid were relatively new machines. I used future on the clear parts and some polishing. Aircraft windows were constantly cleaned and polished, doesn’t matter the state of weathering of the airframe (with rare exceptions, as always), especially on WW II warplanes (visual combat), where spotting the enemy first could be difference between life and death. To save weight, the B-25B armament and ammunition for the Doolittle raid was reduced drastically, leaving only 3 guns on board: the top turret .50 guns (2x) and the 0.30 flexible (1) mount nose gun (stowed on the right side of the bombardier station for take-off). The tail cone Perspex had painted ".50" broomsticks and painted gun channels to look like tail defence guns. I scratch built a .30 machine gun and its stowing harness on the nose compartment. (I will try to take a detail photo of it). The simpler bomb sight “Mark Twain” used on the raid was scratch built as well. The thread on the original kit tires were made smooth to replicate the ones used on the raid. Pitot tube, tail skid, antenna masts and all guns were replaced. There is a lot of subtle weather done but our lighting doesn't help. If you need any other information or I can be of any help, please let me know.
  2. Excellent work! The paint job looks great and the attention to detail is impressive.
  3. Hello all, This model was built by my dad, it represents one of the B-25s that took part in the Doolittle Raid on April 18th 1942, 80 years ago this year. The model was painted with AK real colors, Gunze and Tamiya acrilycs. Dk decals were used along with the kit's own decals and PE was used for the interior. The kit was weathered with Tamiya enamel washes and a fine silver pencil for chipping effects. Numerous scratch-built improvements were added to the model. Hope you enjoy, Comments welcome! me!
  4. Hello all, This is Academy's 1/72 P-47D Razorback painted in the markings of Lt. Donovan Smith's aircraft "Ole Cock". There were a few corrections made to the kit, most notably changing wingsides for the pitot tube from right to left; but other than that the kit is pretty good and the detail is very sharp. The kit was painted with gunze and real colors acrilycs, chipping fluid was used to weather the model. The aftermarket products used are PE for the interior, True Details wheels and a Master pitot tube, I also used a spare Tamiya P-47D propeller. The decals used are Hussar, part of their book Fighting units in color 56th Fighter Group part 1. Hope you enjoy!
  5. Thank you all for your kind words. Smudge, the decals used on "Tallahassee lassie" are Hussar productions decals (Cartograf) and the decals used on Capt. Weaver's mustang are from Kits-World. PS: The decals on "Tallahassee lassie" went on very nicely. Jackson, to do the VLR antennas on "Tallahassee lassie" I filled in the original single antenna hole then drilled two little parallel holes around the same place were the original hole was, then I just test fitted the PE antennas (old True Details set) in their holes for later fitting. The dorsal antenna came from the spare parts (modified).
  6. Hello all, This build was another GB with my dad which was completed a few weeks ago. Both kits are Tamiya 1/72, Captain Weaver's mustang was done by my dad, and "Tallahassee lassie" was done by myself. The models were painted with Mr Color Super Metallic 2 Super Fine Silver and Super Iron and Mr Color H8 Silver, NO PRIMER was used. The only AM products that were used are PE for the interiors and antennas. Hope you enjoy! Oompa Loompa Modelers "Tallahassee lassie" : Captain Chuck Weaver's mustang: Some pics of both mustangs together:
  7. Thank you all for your kind words. Malpaso, it is interesting to know the differences between TFA and TLJ boxings of the kit, it would have been great to get a full model of the standing pilot instead of a boring silhouette. The standard droid included is Jess Pava's (R0-4L0) as seen in TFA and the BB model droid is BB-4 who is seen in TLJ. Thanks again, Oompa Loompa
  8. It seems the fractions of millimetre difference of the slightly narrow IBG front panel are accentuated by its wider lateral frames, making the glass area (without the frames) smaller than the Hasegawa one (assuming it as reference) Related to the “what now” from HKR, the differences between the factory plans and IBG for the windshield are very small and probably will not detract the final model, for this, my apologies to the IBG team.
  9. Thank you very much for the link Mdriskill, Hobbykiller did a fantastic job and I agree with your and his thoughts about the Hasegawa canopy accuracy, even though I haven’t checked the lateral angles yet (another big difference between kits) It seems the Hasegawa Dora has the best windshield/canopy accuracy of all Fw190s available but all the other contenders differ only in fractions of a millimetre and, personally, a fractional narrow windshield on a Fw190 detracts it more than a fractional wider one. Coming back to the original question of Fishplanebeer, it seems that (as usual) will depend upon which kit has less mistakes that will really bother you; or which one will be the easiest to put together with better detail, giving you a final result that looks very much like a Dora! I believe the undernourished windshield/canopy (and probably the skinny fuselage) will spoil the looks of the new IBG Dora (hopefully not, let’s see when the builds start to appear). The glass area only of the IBG windshield (without framing) seems very odd as well. If we take the Hasegawa windshield as reference, the IBG FW190D is smaller in all dimensions and the Tamiya Fw190D is wider (fuselage) by almost the same amount of the IBG one but with a very close frontal section to the Hasegawa one. If this can be of some help for your choice: Accordingly with the excellent research of Hobbykiller (72nd website) the factory plans for the windshield quote: - Width of the front panel windshield is 256 mm, giving us in 1/72 = 3,56 or 3.6 mm - Complete Windshield width ( max width at fuselage) is 628 mm, giving us in 1/72 = 8.72 or 8.7 mm 1) Hasegawa: spot on! 2) IBG: Front panel narrower 0.45 mm and windshield width (fuselage) = smaller 0.64 mm 3) Tamiya: Front panel wider 0.2 mm and windshield width (fuselage) bigger 0.7 mm Again, all these differences are fractions of a millimetre and ultimately it will depend of the modeller’s preference and its perception of the model finished to decide which one is better (canopy wise), above everything build something and have fun! I hope this can be of some help…..
  10. HI, I believe I wasn’t the only one very excited with the prospects of a having a new 1/72 Me 109E (Special Hobby) and, more recently, with the new Fw190 Dora from IBG. After receiving 2 kits last Monday, the IBG windshield seems too narrow at first, making the whole windshield and canopy too narrow (and possibly the whole cockpit area as well), consequently spoiling completely a wonderful kit (on the sprue). I cannot say, without assembling the kit, if this problem comes from a too narrow fuselage, due the multi-parts nature of it. The windshield dimensions of the Fw 190 haven’t changed much since the first models and, for what I see on the plans I have, the frontal area is a rectangle with a Height/Width ratio of approximately 1.7 (including frames) what is very close to the Tamiya and Eduard kits (it simply looks right). I am using an average Height/width ratio taking from the scale plans I have to avoid any doubts about the correctness of scale plans dimensions: (referefences: Fw190 Dora, Crandal, Eagle editions; Fw 190D-9 Japo books; Kagero monographies; Aircraft and miniature monographie; Aj press monographie; 4+ monographie, etc.) I am not saying the Tamiya and Eduard kit windshields are perfect (some angle problems) but, at least, they look a bit closer to the real thing and their problems can be fixed. Perhaps someone will prove me wrong and I will be happy again…. The photos below will speak for themselves: (please note that I have just cut the kit parts from their sprues without cleaning them):
  11. Hello all, This is my rendition of Bandai's 72nd scale T-70 x-wing painted in blue squadron markings as seen in Star Wars episode VII TFA. Overall this was a pretty fun build, there were some mishaps along the way, but I managed to finish it in the end, and am really pleased with the results. Here's the link to the WIP I did on it (this was my first wip, and I also think it turned out well): Here are the pics of the finished model: Hope you enjoy it! Oompa Loompa
  12. Hi all, Hunter Rose, thanks for your kind words, the damage on the canopy did lower my enthusiasm for the kit just a little, but since I have P-51D GB going with my dad I really wanted to finish it so I could concentrate on finishing the mustangs I'm building. I made some progress this weekend which ended up with me finally finishing the x-wing! After passing a layer of gunze semi-gloss acrylic varnish on the canopy and gunze flat acrylic varnish on the fuselage and S-foils, I unmasked the canopy and was relieved to see that there were no strange reactions in sight. I also drilled a little hole in the tips of the gun barrels to add detail and finesse to them. To add some finishing touches I weathered the model with Tamiya weathering powders and Mig light rust modelling pigment. I am pretty pleased with the results and am now calling the model done. Here are a few pics of the assembly: Fuselage assembly S-foils assembly Finished model before final weathering Here's a pic of the completed model with some weathering done on the exhausts and landing gear (though I think I overweathered the landing gear) I will post pictures in the RFI section as soon as I can, Oompa Loompa.
  13. Amazing build! The weathering is spot on and the transparencies look great!
  14. Hi Corsairfoxfouruncle, using masks from someone else and copying them with Tamiya tape is a good idea. My dad (also a modeller and my mentor), suggested that I should do this too, but since I had used the Bandai stickers as masks on other kits (my Bandai Tie Advanced and T-65 X-wing) with no reactions at all, I thought it would by easier and that it would save some time. Well, I've learned my lesson now and shall never use vinyl or sticker type masks on a kit ever again. I already re-dipped my canopy in future and it is now masked (with my home-made Tamiya kabuki masks), primed, and I applied a layer of Vallejo Metal Colors, Alluminum on it yesterday. I plan to pass a layer of semi-gloss varnish on it ASAP, I will post pictures of it as soon as that's done.
  15. Hi all, This weekend instead of doing any progress I've encountered an important delay in the build. After dipping the x-wing's canopy in future (and waiting over 3 days for it to dry) masking and painting it, I discovered upon taking the masks off the canopy, something horrible! The future had reacted with the Bandai sticker I had used to mask the canopy; at first I thought it was just glue so I attempted to erase the excess with a cotton bud and water, but to no avail. Looking at the canopy against the light I noticed that the reaction had marked the future too badly, so my only option was to strip the paint and future with ammonia (windex) an start all over again. This time I will use Tamiya Kabuki tape (which I know doesn't react to future) to make my own masks. Here's a pic showing the damage: Well this was a lesson learned, don't apply Bandai stickers over a canopy that was dipped in future, I thought the reaction was quite strange since I had used bandai's stickers as masks on other canopies (which I also dipped in future), with no reaction whatsoever, but..... On the bright side, there were a few hairs stuck on the paint in the canopy frame that were bothering me, so hopefully this time there will be no reactions and no hairs. Well that's it for now, Oompa Loompa
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