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M1ks

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Everything posted by M1ks

  1. Great thanks and apologies again for the initial placing.
  2. Thankyou for that, for reference which section should I have posted this into as I occassionally like to share how to's if something occurs to me, I did check through the available categories but couldn't find one more suitable than the one used?
  3. Apologies if it's in the wrong place, I couldn't find a heading for tutorials or hints and tips but if you let me know where it should be I'll gladly relocate it.
  4. Thanks for letting me know, not sure what happened there but now edited it and it should work alright.
  5. Make your own Model kit parts paint drying holder for free! How to.
  6. Moi? Mr Newbie because I don't have many posts on this forum? That's because I don't post spuriously, nor do I tear into others for trying to help someone! On that note, you're not leagues ahead with the post numbers so maybe haul in that 'tude a little? I've been modelling and spraying for 15-20 years, (after returning from being a warbird making brush wielding kid many years before) and years prior to airbrushing I was spraying with big boys toys sprayguns on 1:1 scale. I know one end of an AB from the other ta V much. That's nice of him, I've not needed his services in the last 15 years of stripping cleaning and re-assembling both my cheap chinese Iwata clone and my Iwata and honestly, if they expected said item to fail on such a frequency, that's poor QC, (my very first single action Badger with a PLASTIC screw thread in the cap and is 25 years old still works and has been stripped and cleaned frequently during it's use!) Things are designed with threads for a reason! In all those years I've replaced one needle / nozzle combo on the chinese brush due to me fumbling said AB and dropping it on the needle and punching it through the nozzle splitting it, the needle is still OK, sitting there as a spare, it was simply as cheap to get a replacement of both than to just get a nozzle. Further to this, once a year or so, I used to completely strip and ultrasonic clean the AB's and despite my thorough cleaning regimen, some tiny flecks of paint still appeared! based on this and my previous years of experience spraying, no-one is going to convince me a 'flush through' is thoroughly cleaning any spraygun. Also, *your and *you've messed or *you mess if we're picking at things That's simply a ridiculous statement, an AB is a physical paint spraying device and isn't an evolving organism and knowledge of such is finite, I guarantee, this person, nor I, nor anyone who knows the mechanical why's and wherefore's of an AB knows any more or any less than anyone else or could even forget more than someone else could know. I didn't say that, don't put words in my mouth. My comment, and this in reply to little-cars too to hopefully clarify, was tongue in cheek, (note the winky emoticon), the use of this was intended to convey the tongue in cheek nature because written words on a forum cannot carry intoned meaning. I believe my method IS a better one, (it's also technically not my method but one taught to me by older and wiser paint sprayers many moons ago) and I'll happily explain why, i'll bet there are heaps of modellers who divert from the printed assembly and painting instructions, surely, if they're the manufacturers guidelines they must be correct? (see where I'm going with that?) However, I'll explain for anyone interested. The needle gets paint stuck to it which is nigh on impossible to shift purely by flushing, drawing it backwards drags said paint THROUGH the teflon or rubber seal slowly degrading / eroding it, that seals purpose is to prevent paint seeping back into the trigger section and gumming up the works which are hard to access for cleaning. The first thing I do with a new AB or would do with a new needle is gently chamfer the back / blunt end of the needle with some very fine wet n dry, 1200 grit or similar, this prevents any burrs tearing the seal and is the main reason the instructions say to insert it from the back, but think logically, if you butt the point against the inside of the body whilst trying to insert it from the back of the brush you will burr/blunt/bend it easily, if you butt the thick edge against the bowl re-inserting it it won't harm anything. All that said, that's my reasonings, there are different ways to approach the job of stripping and cleaning but that's the method I promote and condone for the reasons specified, I've never needed to replace a seal in any of the brushes I've had, i've never used or needed to use any lubricant on the needle and they all work flawlessly and I know they'll operate first time I fire up the compressor for a session because of that thorough nature of cleaning. Each to their own otherwise but to clarify once more, I did not insult anyone, I did not call anyone 'fools', the comment about it being the wrong way, while my belief generally, was tongue in cheek, (wink emote), because I know and respect other peoples decision to use whatever method they wish, if you want to polish your spectacles with sandpaper i'll tell you it's not the best thing to do but respect your decision regardless as they're yours. To the OP, I do hope you resolve your airbrush troubles as I know a good many H&S users who laud their products so once sorted i'm sure you'll enjoy using it again. That's my final word and input done for this thread though I think now. Thanks
  7. Then he's wrong, it's the only logical way to both remove and insert the needle, why would you drag paint coated needle backwards through seals and packing or insert it forwards and risk bending or damaging the delicate tip?
  8. The little winky emoji is a suggestion that my post may not have been entirely serious and is intended as lighthearted jollities.
  9. It's because you're using an iphone, they're now an optional extra you have to purchase from the istore, search for iLike and iReact accordingly, each emoji costs roughly the equivalent of a decent android device or about a 1/4 the cost of the latest iphone
  10. Looks great to me, of course helicopters are better, after blue thunder and airworlf who could dispute that? As far as jets go, I don't get the fascination, they're like nytol to me, like people say about modern cars, well, they all look the same don't they? Pointy bit at one end, thrusty bit at t'other and a few rockets, add some silvery grey for that unique dazzle and hey, it's another jet!
  11. I don't have experience with H&S but have read a few comments re tip dry problems. Personally I believe 0.2mm is too small for practical modelling use, that's ideal fine detail airbrush art size where you use very thinned paint and higher pressures. The Iwata I use has a 0.5mm tip and needle/nozzle and when I bought it I considered a 0.3mm conversion kit as my cheap Chinese ab is 0.3mm. However, I find it's perfect, I can spray with as fine a detail as I can with the 0.3mm cheapie. I'd recommend a larger needle/nozzle setup if you can change them, 0.3mm minimum, pressure tends to vary with personal preference to a degree but I find smaller needs higher pressure to achieve the same control, Alclad in the cheapie needed 20psi+ 10-15 is ideal in the Iwata for example. A final note on thinning, IPA I've found only works well with tamiya acrylics and flashes off too quickly anyway for anything other than matte, it makes other acrylics 'claggy and jellylike'. Water is a go/no go fine line between mixing and separating the pigments but tamiya's x20a thinner works well with citadel acrylics so maybe try those with your Vallejo and see if that improves it?
  12. This is absolutely fantastic, good for you as a parent encouraging and helping and good for him being actively interested. That indeed is a spectacularly painted pilot figure and far far better than my very first attempts at model making. Give him a huge thumbs up from me especially for choosing what is my all time favourite british WWII aircraft.
  13. Of course they will, if you started charging guests to enter your property and your neighbour knocked a hole in your wall to sneak them in you'd be out there with bricks and mortar shoring it up post haste. People need to stop using them and move to another. This kind of thing happens all the time and unless they get realistic with a sensible fee they'll lose a phenomenal amount of personal users, it's only businesses who are tied in with hundreds of images who'll have to tolerate it until their IT can get an alternative sorted
  14. Yup, nearest town and place with 'normal high street name brand' shopping outlets. People sometimes ask if we have a McDonalds where I am, yes, we do, many places with that name, not a one that sells american burgers and fries though, , again, 75 miles away for that too, and Burger king.
  15. No no no, it's great, especially on toast
  16. Haven't used them BUT going on what i've read elsewhere. Hopefully helpful, the base coats are NOT glossy because the 2K clearcoat is designed to achieve the gloss, I don't know if this would have a bearing, also, it's my understanding that the attraction of these paints is that they're designed for colour matching vehicles so I cant see them offering any real benefit re aircraft, that said, there's no reason you couldn't use them for that reason really.
  17. People need to be aware that this TP block has NOTHING to do with 'losing your images', all it prevents is embedded images appearing in a third party site, such as a forum, what will happen, given that photobucket has done what it's done and is demanding as much as it is to 'enable' this feature again, is that they'll find out about the extension and make adjustments to stop it working, it will enable people to briefly see TP linked images again until this happens. HOWEVER, the images are still there and can be viewed by a third party OR the album owner/creator ON PB's SITE. What users need to do long term is either pay the extortion or physically download the images, (if they're not stored on a HDD elsewhere) and use another provider!
  18. Thanks, unfortunately it's going to be a wait until I get into town thing, my 'local' Smiths is 75 miles awy where town is, small remote villages are nice but there are times it's a nuisance for getting to shops you used to take for granted when town was only 7 miles
  19. Thanks, I'll take a look in the shop next time i'm passing. I don't mind the H2R but there's nothing that stands out on the kit reviews I've seen online of it.
  20. Is this one available in the shops alongside AMW? I'd be interested in having a flick through before deciding to get it, much as I love car and bike models i'm not so bothered about F1 and racing influenced variants. Which bike model is featured?
  21. Thanks guys. Bimota are exotic limited run hand machined and built bikes Cooper, using tried and tested engines from lots of manufacturers, they build a frame and bodywork to complement them, you rarely see them on the road generally but you'd know if you had, they're all quite distinctive with a certain flair for design.
  22. My most recent build completed, the 'funny front end' Bimota Tesi 1D with hub centre steering. Tesi Unfaired1 by mike michael michaels, on Flickr tesi4 by mike michael michaels, on Flickr Build blog info and more detailed images here: https://miksmodelkits.wordpress.com/2017/08/24/tamiya-bimota-tesi-1d-906sr-112/ Build video series on my youtube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eitsWBh4IIA&list=PLoJWYG0njom_y21k4Cws7Ag633zvo810H
  23. Both green stuff and milliput will work with no problem, consider also using plaster if it's only for a stack of barrels which once painted and placed will be stationary, whilst simple in design they'll use a lot of putty. Blue stuff is the same kind of thing as oyumaru so no need to get more. There's a great video on moulding with blue stuff and resin putty on youtube and various things I've read online say that blue stuff replicates detail slightly better than oyumaru. The detail certainly looks good in the video.
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