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About ragnarec

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    Horten, Norway

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  1. Thanks for the tip! May be well worth a try. I need to find a local supplier of Zippo lighter fluid though. May be other brands of lighter fluid may work equally well? No problems with the fluid attacking the underlying paint? Ragnar
  2. Decals on. The next step will be to protect the decals with another coat of clear gloss, before a careful pin-wash to bring out the surface details. I've considered just brushing on a layer of Alclad Aqua Gloss instead of spraying X-22, but am afraid that the Aqua Gloss may be to fragile to protect the decals against the wash. I plan to make the wash by mixing oil paint (tube type) with odorless thinner. Thanks for looking! Ragnar
  3. I've put down a layer of clear gloss in preparation for the decals. I always tend to struggle with the clear gloss... This time I used Tamiya X-22 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. I picked up some tips regarding application on the net, including some videos, and was able to get a passable result. Good enough for decals, I hope. The first coat turned out a bit rough and had to be rubbed down with sandpaper and Micromesh before the second coat. Just after application everything looked glass smooth, but as the finish dried a slight texture appeared. I also discovered that X-22 is quite slow drying, and I managed to get fingerprints in the finish even after more than 24 hours drying time. Ragnar
  4. Thank's for the link! I agree - interesting. I think he gets very nice results. Ragnar
  5. I take the hint, John! It makes sense. I decided to redo the wing root chipping, and this time I tried the hair spray technique. I decanted some hair spray fluid into a bottle, and applied it by brush to the wing roots. Camouflage colours were then reapplied. With a stiff brush dipped in water, I scrubbed away some of the camo. Not a big difference, but the amount of chipping has been reduced to some extent. And the black walk-way is kept intact. This will be weathered later with pastels or oils. Time will show ... Ragnar
  6. Hi, I also have the Gremlin 404 kit and have started it, but it takes a lot of work if you want a nice and reasonably correct model. I happened to spot a couple of 404 kits (LN Kits issue) in a hobby shop in Oslo, Norway last weekend. They're not listen in the webshop, but it may be worth contacting them via email. Www.hobbym.no. - Ragnar
  7. I'm working on the paint chipping in the wing roots. Prior to laying the camouflage, I had sprayed on some aluminium + clear gloss. Plus dabbed on some Microscale Micro Mask. I think this was a mistake, and that Micro Mask is not very suitable for this kind of job. I think I will try Humbrol Maskol next time. I had problems removing the camouflage and reveal the aluminium underneath. In the end I managed somehow, but removed may be too much? I consider applying some paint by bush in order to reduce the amount of chipping and may be make it look more convincing. I'm not really sure how to proceed. Any tips?? Ragnar
  8. I had a mishap with the "A" on the starboard side. I managed to place my big, fat thumb in the middle of the letter before the paint was dry, leaving a huge fingerprint. After initial attempts of fixing the issue with a fine brush, I gave up and decided to rub the whole thing off. Such things always tend to happen in my builds... That's one of the reasons I stopped using Vallejo Air and went over to Tamiya. I need paint that is sandable! This time, I painted the "A" before the camouflage. Here, I have masked the "A" off and am ready for some preshading/prefading before applying Dark Green. The final result: I'm not really happy with the way the camo on the nose ended up, so I have to redo that too. I may end up using more time fixing errors than I initially used applying the paint scheme... Ragnar
  9. For the squadron codes, I made artwork for masks using the drawing tool in MS Word. Not a very suitable tool for this kind of work I have to admit. Does anyone have any suggestion for a simple, user friendly drawing program for making artwork for masks and decals? The number and letters were printed on frisket film, cut out with a scalpel and applied to the model. This is the first time I have used frisket film. The result was OK, but not perfect. Some touch-up will be needed. For the other side, I decided to try a slightly different approach. In stead of using the frisket masks, I made new masks by printing the artwork directly on Tamiya masking tape. This is something I have done before, and works quite well. The biggest problem is that the masks get very flimsy and are a bit tricky to apply to the model. Again, some touch-up was needed after the masks had been removed. Ragnar
  10. Fuselage and wing bands masked out and white applied. White striped masked, black applied and masks removed. Ragnar
  11. Painting continues. The green areas were masked using Tack-it sausages and masking tape. The excessive use of green meant that the preshading had to be more or less redone for the grey areas. This was topped with some layers of well thinned Tamiya Ocean Grey. Next step will be black-and-white fuselage and wing bands, as well as yellow wing leading edges. I also plan to mask and paint the squadron codes, as the Airfix decals in my kit are of poor quality. I have purchased some Xtradecal replacements that provide nice roundels as well as stenciling, but not markings for any aircraft with the black-and-white bands. Ragnar
  12. Your right - it is not necessary to be very precise with the airbrush when it comes to preshading. But I think I would need more practice with the airbrush before attempting something like WW2 Luftwaffe mottling... Anyway - time has come for the topside. After applying preshading using white and light and dark greys, I masked out the areas that is supposed to become Ocean Grey. I made the masks a little under-size in order to provide for some overlap between the green and grey colours. In retrospect, I see that that I cut that masks a bit too small, which mean that I have to cover unnecessary much Dark Green with Ocean Grey in the next paint stage. Ragnar
  13. I have started the painting process. I have tried to apply some kind of pre-shading, something that I normally not do. I have to admit that I'm really not very comfortable with freehand spray painting! But I guess that practice is the only thing that may improve matters. The next step was to apply a thin layer of Medium Sea Grey. I used Tamiya XF-83, and thought it was dark, so I mixed in quite a lot of XF-2 White. Possibly to much... Ragnar
  14. Thank for info regarding camouflage colours, corsaircorp. I have a short article from the February 1978 issue of Scale Models written by Gordon Bowtle, who was pilot with 80 Squadron in Hong Kong and flew the Spitfire 24. According to Mr. Bowtle, the finish of the aircraft deteriorate rapidly due the conditions and "... each aircraft was re-sprayed at the end of its major inspection in dark green/dark sea grey with medium sea grey undersides". I have the understanding that RAF replaced Ocean Grey with Dark Sea Grey as upper side camouflage colour some time after the war, but this was possibly only for new aircraft types? I am no expert on post war RAF camouflage colours, and very grateful for any info that may clarify things.
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