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About ragnarec

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    Horten, Norway

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  1. Congratulations with a great model! It has been a pleasure to follow the build. The way you have managed to turn a mediocre starting point into a splendid model is really impressive. Looking forward to your next project! Regards, Ragnar
  2. Interesting subject! I have two in the stash that both will be finished in civilian schemes some day. The Norseman saw extensive use here in Norway from the late forties into the sixties, and there is a rich selection of paint schemes to choose from. Lima November Decals produces a decal sheet some years ago covering some of the options. As you may have noticed, the Matchbox fuselage contains far too few "stringers", but this is a fault that is difficult to correct. Looking forward to follow your build! Regards, Ragnar
  3. Painting of camo is now done, apart from some touch-up that will be needed here and there. I have used Tamiya paints for the Medium Sea Grey, Ocean Grey and Dark Green. I first applied the colours straight from the tin, and then did some post shading with lightened colours to achieve a worn look. Demarcation between colours was done with paper masks on the wings and tack-it sausages on the fuselage. I think I have read somewhere that the Ocean Grey from Tamiya is a bit off colourwise. I am no colour expert, so I don't really known whats wrong with it. Regards, Ragnar
  4. I've really been struggling with that canopy. The problem is not the canopy itself, but the the fact I was not precise enough with the initial fitting. The framing of the canopy is not very precise - this is possibly just due to the limitations of the vacuum forming process. With the quite complex framing of the Mustang canopy, this makes masking tricky and time consuming. Finally I've managed to put on a layer of primer over the complete fuselage. Ragnar
  5. I'm currently in the process of fitting and fairing in the vacuum formed canopy. I think this is a quite tricky operation, and I have used a lot of time to get a result that I am satisfied with. I been trough a number of sessions of filling and sanding. The good thing with a vac canopy is that it has much less optical distortion than the kit canopy, which means that all the cockpit detail - including the camera installation - can be easily seen. The biggest problem is static electricity. Quite a bit of dust and debris has appeared on the inside of the canopy. Sigh! Any good advice on how to avoid this? Once the canopy is finished I can start the paining process. I believe Dark Green and Ocean Grey over Medium Sea Grey, with Sky spinner, fuselage band and codes should be correct. Or should I use Mixed Grey in stead of Ocean Grey? Another open question is the position of the individual aircraft letter. According to written documentation, the letter should be placed ahead of the fuselage roundel. But I have found a picture of another aircraft from No II (AC) Squadron which shows the letter behind the roundel. The picture is quoted to be taken in September 1943. - Ragnar
  6. ragnarec

    Nor-Fly DC3

    Very nice build!
  7. Then I've fashioned a new ST-1A gun sight and installed it in the cockpit. Probably not 100% accurate, but it will have to do. Not easy to make such tiny parts!
  8. Sorry - typo! What I meant was the N-3 gunsight. Which means that the N-3 was incorrect anyway. Again, many thanks for invaluable information, @ColFord!
  9. The armour plate and seat have been mounted into the cockpit. I have used some Eduard photo etch for the seat harness. Next up is the gunsight. The plan was to use the part provided in the kit, but I thought it had a weird shape and started to search for photos on the net. What I found was that early Mustangs probably were equipped with what is called the N-9 type gunsight. It is basically a tubular shaped item, and looks nothing like the kit part. Anyone knows if RAF used the N-9 for the Mustang I, or if they used some British type of sight?
  10. I've spent quite a lot of time trying to restore surface details being lost after my rather heavy-handed way of building. It was therefore not funny to discover that I had failed to glue the wings on square and level. After some consideration I came to the conclusion that I could not live with the tilted wing. The solution was to bring out the razor saw and make a deep cut in the starboard wing, right trough the top surface and into the wheel well. The wing was bent up until the gap was closed, and everything then fixed in place with super glue. The results was considerably better symmetry, but perhaps a bit more dihedral then what should have been. Plus a damaged wheel well... Oh well
  11. This is the continuation of a project started under the recently finished Mustang STGB. Original thread is here: The plan is to build Mustang Mk I XV-X, serial AM112, which was flown on operations over occupied Europe by Norwegian pilot Lt. Anton C. Hagerup during the winter of 1943. I have found a photo of the aircraft from summer 1942, but the squadron code XV was probably removed during the fall of 1942. I have no photo of the aircraft from the actual time-frame, so I have to resort to a bit of guesswork. I'm currently rebuilding the radiator intake to Mk I configuration. Ragnar
  12. State of affairs: not I'm working on the radiator inlet. On the real plane. the cross section of the radiator duct changes from almost rectangular in the front to circular at the end. I've decided not to try to replicate that. The plan is to have the intake lip closed or almost closed, and I don't think it will be noticeable that a proper duct is missing. Anyway, it's 15th of March, which means that I didn't make it to the deadline. The plan now is to start a new build thread in the standard WIP section and post updates there. Hopefully I will be able to finish the model in a not too distant future! Ragnar
  13. ragnarec

    Nor-Fly DC3

    That was my experience, too. I ended up masking and painting the tail stripe. On the other hand, it seems that you have avoided the strange decal shrinking I experienced - I must have got a bad sample of the decal sheet. Very nice work so far, btw. I really like the metal finish. Have you had any problems with masking over the Xtreme Metal paint?
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