Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

ragnarec

Members
  • Content Count

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

172 Excellent

About ragnarec

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Horten, Norway

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The control surfaces have been glued to the tail. One of the main issues with the Airfix kit is the sliding canopy, which sits too high on the fuselage. The sides don't reach down to the rails in the fuselage. To remedy the situation, I have acquired a vacuum replacement from Airwaves, and started the process of trimming it to fit. Not an easy task in my experience, due to the kind of plastic used in vacuum canopies. Final adjustments are done by sanding, and this is difficult as the plastic does not sand easily. My plan is to keep Airfix' windscreen, as it is better defined than the vacuformed alternative. The canopy will be mounted in the open positions once painting and finishing is completed. Ragnar
  2. The work on the Spitfire is progressing slowly. I have cut out the elevators and plan to mount them in dropped position, as is usually the case when the Spitfire is parked. The rudder has been modified with a new trim tab make from sheet plastic, featuring the strange, "split" shape that Airfix failed to portray. The ailerons have been glued back on the wings in slightly offset positions. Ragnar
  3. Yes, the flaps are quite a good fit. But I was not careful enough when I glued them in place and they ended up slightly offset in height relative to the wing underside. A little high on one side, and a little low on the other side. Which meant quite a lot of filling, sanding and rescribing. As you can see in the picture above, I have plugged the incorrect camera port with a disk of plastic card, installed the radiators and cut out the ailerons. The latter will be remounted in slightly offset positions. Prior to installing the radiator housings, the walls where adjusted in order to be perpendicular to the wing underside, in stead of vertical relative to the ground. Why Airfix moulded them as the did is a mystery to me... Ragnar
  4. Ok, tanks for the info! This means that I have to cover over the window on my model. Ragnar
  5. I've finely managed to mount wings and fuselage together. The ventral camera is probably incorrect, but it will be an easy task to hide it behind a layer of filler. Just a bit of wasted work... The flaps have been glued in the up-position, as this is the typical position when the Spitfire is parked. Ragnar
  6. Well, frankly I don't know for sure, but the Airfix instructions tells me to install a clear part that looks like a camera port under the rear fuselage. I've posted an inquiry in the "Cold war" section - hopefully someone can give an explanation. Regards Ragnar
  7. Hi, I'm currently building the Airfix 1/48 Spitfire 22/24, and the instructions tells me to install a clear part under the rear fuselage for the Mk 24 variant. Does anyone know the purpose of this "window" - is it a camera port? I've had trouble finding reference photos showing this feature. Regards Ragnar
  8. I made my own "beading tool" by sharpening a 0.6 mm syringe needle in a motor tool, and mounting the needle in a pin vice. The lost fastener detail could then be recreated. It was not particularly easy, and the result is far from perfect. Especially the areas with Milliput were troublesome, as Millput is brittle, and the centres of the fasteners tended to come off. In the middle of this process, the beading tool set ordered from China arrived, and I was able to compare it with my home made tool. In general, I feel that the China tool set works better. I think it will be very useful for future modelling project. So thank you for a great tip!! To make opening of the belly camera port easier, some small plastic pieces were cut from each fuselage half and glued together. I have also made a simple representation of the camera lens from a piece of sprue. I have a question regarding the glass in the camera port. Should it be flat, or should it follow the fuselage curvature? All for now! Regards, Ragnar
  9. Thanks! The radiators are for some strange reason moulded with a parallelogram like cross section in this kit. I'm in the process of sorting this out. OK, thanks for answer. I may try this on my next project.
  10. It is incredible what can be ordered from China for next to nothing - including postage! I've just placed an order, but in my experience it can take some weeks before the goods are delivered at my door step.
  11. Thanks for the info! I think I'll go for grey green. I was not a aware of this kind of product, but it seems like something I should try to get hold of.
  12. Things are progressing slowly. The Millput filler has been sanded down and the panel lines have been rescribed. What remains is to recreate the lost fasteners. My plan is to get hold of some syringe needle of appropriate diameter, cut of the tip and then sharpen it in a motor tool, and then use it to imprint new fasteners. I have not done it before, but I hope it will work. After that it is time to fit the wings. I have a question in that regard. Anyone known the proper colour for the wheel wells? Unpainted aluminium, or the underside colour (Medium Sea Grey)? Regards, Ragnar
  13. Thanks! This is my motivation too. I could of course just have glued the propeller in place at the end of the build and skipped the spinning gimmick, but I think it is fun with a little experimentation... Sounds like an easier approach. Do you experience any problems with the prop falling off unintentionally? Ragnar
  14. After some trimming I was able to get the different pieces to fit into the cockpit, and the two fuselage halves could be joined. Next was time for some "plastic surgery". I plan to mount the propeller after painting and finishing of the rest of the airplane is complete, but I still want to be able to spin the propeller. I have possibly not chosen the easiest route, but I think my approach should work. First step was to trim 0.5 mm of the front of the fuselage, including the resin cowling top. I then cut a disk out of 0.5 mm plastic sheet with the same diameter as the spinner. This will help in aligning the cowling top and make the fuselage front perfectly circular. Before the disk was glued to the fuselage, it was given a large hole in the middle, and some other parts were fashioned from plastic and aluminium tubing. The two leftmost parts are glued to the fuselage, while the thin aluminium tube is threaded through thick tube and glued to the spinner back plate. The thick tube (with plastic disk) is not glued to anything at this stage, but is free to rotate relative to the spinner plate. I did not manage to get a very good fit between the resin cowling top and the kit nose, and had to resort to Milliput to smooth things out. I'm using the Superfine White variety. When using Milliput, I try to apply the putty sparingly and smooth the joints using a metal tool dipped in water. This to minimize the sanding job afterwards. Regards, Ragnar
  15. I'm mostly done with painting of the interior. The basic paint used is Xtracrylics Interior Grey-Green, with details picked out with Vallejo acrylics. I've used Airscale decals for the instruments on the instrument panel.
×
×
  • Create New...