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Red Dog

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About Red Dog

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  • Gender
  • Location
    In the bush Down Under - Launceston, Australia
  • Interests
    Model Kit Collector, occasional builder

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  1. Very impressive. Superb paint job & weathering.
  2. Another option I hadn't thought of. Mmm maybe on the next one. I still have Italeri's offering in the stash. I'm doing this one up for a mate. Cheers
  3. Have gone with this method. Paint fan blades. Masked fan blades. Attach fan blade/engine nancelle front piece to rest of engine nancelle. Paint camo scheme. Used a circle cutter to cut a mask that has surprisingly nestled into the steps formed by the fan blades quite well. Had to cut out the middle part to accommodate the center hump then masked it separately. Quite happy with result, will see how it turns out. Going to keep engine nancelles part and rudders separate to ease painting process. Very tight fit so shouldn't pose too many problems when attaching to painted airframe (famous last words). Completely forgot to add nose weight (Bugger!) but fortunately with the engine nancelle part left off I can drop some fishing sinkers down into the nose with some CA. (Phew! Great save Red Dog) Cheers all and thanks again for your responses.
  4. Thanks all for your contributions., much appreciated. Sounds like there's no definitive or easy way to do it, so I'll do the best I can using some of your suggestions. Thanks again. Could be a market for a mask for this area in kits, or for kits to have separate fans and engine nancelles.
  5. Thanks Muzz, Yeah if painting the blades second, hand painting would be the way to go. Masking each blade individually... Whoa, but an option. Thanks again.
  6. Building Hobby Boss' 1/48 A-10 and have come across a part of the build that has stumped me. Painting the engine fans. What has others done/ What would you do first? 1. Paint the fans, then mask somehow (because of the steps that the individual fans blades make) 2. Attach to rest of nacelle, paint camo scheme for whole aircraft, mask camo scheme on inside of engine nacelle and then paint fan blades. 3. Other options? Here's the steps that the fan blades make against the edge. Difficult to mask either way. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
  7. Thanks Walter & Rad Max 8, a bit of colour does smarten the pit up a touch.
  8. Nicely done. The base sets the scene nicely. I don't mind modelling with a bit of music in the background either, but find wearing a mask gets in the way of seeing the model I'm painting. Sorry been in iso too long.
  9. Thanks phildagreek. Cheers Rad Max 8. Been a bit slower than I would have liked (I was going to say that life has got in the way, but seeing as i don't have a life that can't be the case. I will blame it on having to home school my 6 year old, keeping both daughters apart and house chores during this time). As well as other modelling projects. Finally got cockpit together. plenty of dry fitting a bit of cursing and some putty. Had a problem with the under side piece. As you can see it required some putty to avoid a step and to fill some gaps. Have painted undercarriage and associated doors and have afixed said undercarriage to wings. Engine nancelles and fuselage halves glued together and awaiting main assembly. Will start to look like an aeroplane soon. Next up is the mammoth task of masking the greenhouse canopy. I do have a masking sheet which will reduce the time considerably but it still takes time and patience (something I'm lacking at the moment for some reason). Something you have to be in the mood to do. If not then you can get into that mode of 'close enough is good enough'. Something I try to avoid as a good start to a model can quickly deteriorate into 'let's just get thing done ASAP'. Will be back soon with more. Cheers
  10. Update Cockpit parts painted. A touch of colour. Not much colour in this cockpit apart from the seats, few dials and levers. Assembly of these parts next. Cheers
  11. Little bit more done. Put all the resin into the cockpit. No problems with the fit. Went very well and very simple to put in place. Regards to Verlinden. Painted those parts today with Tamiya XF-63. Next move to add some highlights and shadows and colour to some of the bits and bobs. Lovely details which will be enhanced with more paint. Cheers
  12. I was inspired by Calum's ICM 1/48 Ju-88C-6 build with the 'pox'. Great build and a different paint scheme which made me dig out my Dragon kit along with all the different bits and pieces I had collected for this build when I got around to it. This kit has also been sold under the Revell & Promodeller name. have also been reading 'Bloody Biscay - The History of V Gruppe/Kampfgeschwader 40' by Chris Goss a great insight into this units combat against the RAF, USAAF and USN above the Bay of Biscay during the period of July 42 to August 44. Two great reasons to get a start on this project. If I needed a third reason its because I've been on a twin engined build spree lately having done Tamiya's Beaufighter Mk.21, Promodeller's Me 410B with Hobby Boss' Me 262A-2a currently in the paint shop and putting the final touches on Great Wall's P-61B Blackwidow. Looking at something like the top two examples from KG 40 during its period of Bay of Biscay First one F8+RY looks like I may have to mask the RLM 76 camo and the other do it freehand. RLM 76 patches over original RLM 70/71 Splinter with RLM 65 undersides. All the bits & pieces I've collected over the years. Kagero Ju 88 Vol III. Squadron Signal Ju 88 in Action Pt.2 Verlinden Ju 88 cockpit detail set (Monogram) We'll see how it goes in the Dragon kit. Eduard Ju 88C canopy mask (A must have for this type of canopy) Eduard Ju 88C-6 Etch set (Interior & Exterior) This may not be used as I bought it before I realised that I don't like PE. Some parts may be used to cover some of the numerous ejector pin marks. Techmod Ju 88A-1 Xtradecal Ju 88A, C, G Airdoc Ju 88 Pt. 2 Ju 88A KG 1, 3, 26 & 30 (Lots of decal sheets just so I have plenty of options and can make any code - except F8 of KG 40 which I'm liking the look of) When I pulled all the bits and pieces out I wondered why I got Verlinden's resin cockpit. But I soon discovered on closer inspection of the parts why. A disappointing thing with this kit is the numerous ejector pin marks in very conspicuous areas. The cockpit parts are riddled with them. Another short coming is the props. What's going on there? Different lengths & shapes of the tips. May look at aftermarket and see what's available or just sand them to similar shapes. Good points The radios/radar instruments are all good as well as the main instrument panel. Just as good as the resin stuff. That's as far as I've got so far. Will give the resin a clean up tonight and maybe a start at dry fitting it into the forward fuselage. Can't guarantee a quick build especially with the amount of resin to go into the cockpit, but we'll see how we go. Cheers
  13. Flat coat won't affect the decals. Try to avoid going too heavy causing pooling of the flat coat.Light passes allowing the previous pass to dry somewhat be before going over again. Spray cans will eject (if that's the right term) far more of its contents than an airbrush.
  14. Pox is certainly the right word for it. Magnificent build and great setting. The pox spots look very realistic, not perfectly done which gives it a sense of realism. I have Dragons Ju-88 C-6 in the stash, just looking for the right scheme to peak my interest. This one certainly has raised an eyebrow. I'll check out a review for details of this a/c's unit. Well done on a cracking bujld and top finish.
  15. Brilliant. Love the weathering and worn look. Great job.
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