GrahamB

Add the aft section of darker tone as it is just visible.

Thanks. Nice to know that some ships are still being remembered in this way. My CCF days were at the Royal Hospital School (Holbrook) - as if we didn't have enough naval traditions, dress and routines! Cheers, GrahamB

Gorgeous. Fantastic rigging and rope-work. I love seeing these real plank-on-frame models.

Well done Michal - a great model and some really good tips on some of your techniques An under-rated subject and I've a 1/350 Castle Class to build at some point as well. Like you, I'm really "into" RN Atlantic escorts and their camouflage schemes. Cheers, GrahamB

Amazing, what a fantastic model. Detail is superb and I like the rigging and rope-work - what did you use for this? Cheers. GrahamB

Awesome work on this HMS Hood. I 've had a look through some of the build log too and there are some great techniques. The 3-D printing for helm-indicators is amazing - making these is something I've shied away from, especially in 1/700. Cheers, GrahamB

Hi, thanks for great feedback. As for the weathering, this is largely based on photos, especially the one below. The model's appearance might be somewhat anachronistic, being at a stage slightly earlier than that in the photo - here HMS Douglas is with Oerlikons in the waist positions. Cheers, GrahamB

Ta guys. The spider has gone on a well-deserved rest cure.

Hello, another interesting build, this time the 1/350 AJM resin kit of HMS Douglas - a WW1 destroyer leader (Scott Class) that served in WW2 as an escort. It is shown here in 1942-43 after a refit but before the midships 2pdrs (pom-poms) were replaced by 20mm Oerlikons. At first I was not too happy with the kit as the smaller parts had a strange corrugated surface and some were fairly shapeless - definitely not on a par with Combrig. However, as I went along I got to really like the look, especially after the paint job. This might be somewhat of a guess by me as the Western Approaches scheme was indicated as being white and WA Green. I had some problems with this as I was fixed on the idea that WA Green was "supposed" to have a reflectance value of 55% (as per WA Blue) and tonal values in photographs seemed to imply something darker and more saturated. Instead, I used a (Schminke ink) mix of the blue-grey B6 as this has been mentioned a a substitute in the WA scheme. This was before I received the new NARN paints which have the WA Green a darker and more saturated colour than the WA BlueNever mind. Cheers, GrahamB

Some years ago, I completed a Combrig HMS Monmouth kit and was intending to follow this up with the also unfortunate HMS Good Hope. A change of plan happened when I saw the image of HMS King Alfred in 1917-18 dazzle camouflage when she was used as an Atlantic convoy escort. I contacted the IWM Collections and purchased the photography/digitising of the Admiralty’s camouflage Order HMS 32 for this ship (then not available on-line). My local photoshop did a fantastic job of combining the port and starboard images and printed them at extremely high resolution on top-quality paper. All the tiny blue-ink stamps indicating the colour for the scheme (White, Black, No.1 Blue Grey, No.2 Grey) are there. The framed print is a great addition to the art on my living room wall. The kit is built more or less from the box but with some modifications that several of the Leviathan Class received during WW1, including the moving of the lower casement 6” guns to the main deck – these turrets are from AJM – and a reduction of the boat complement. A large element of the modifications can be seen in the profile of HMS Drake in Norman Friedman’s British Cruisers of the Victorian Era. The Perkins Identification Album British Warship Recognition Vol.III: Cruisers 1865-1939, part 1 is also a good source as are the images of the builders’ model of HMS Leviathan in David Hobbs’ Warships of the Great War Era – a history in ship models. Unfortunately, the only image of HMS King Alfred is small and not of good quality. I excluded the foremast derrick (as per HMS Drake) but replaced them with what appear to be two smaller derricks (for coaling/ammunitioning?) – only a guess at the correct placement. I left the aft-bridge wings as they were as the photo appears to show them – in HMS Drake they were removed. The fore-bridge on HMS King Alfred also appears to have been enlarged at the rear but I could not really see what needed doing. Two large rafts are added to the rear of the aft superstructure. I made some attempt at the cage aerials, but only in using three lengths of the thinnest Uschi thread. Painting was done with a variety of media but two of the dazzle colours were from the WEM range, namely GW02 #2 Grey and GW13 #1 Blue/Grey. I am not convinced these are correct if the Order’s colours are anything like prototypical – the No.2 Grey is darker and more bluish (GW02 #2 Grey is a medium grey, possibly slight greenish) and the No.1 Blue Grey is a more saturated blue (GW13 #1 Blue/Grey is hardly tinted blue at all). I chickened out of following the Order but added some NARN B5 blue to the blue grey – but not enough, I think. All in all, a great model from Combrig and I’ve got my eyes on their new Cressy/Aboukir/Hogue next. Cheers, GrahamB

Thanks guys. I'll have a practice with the whites I got (including a Vallejo type). I've a few Scalecolor acrylics that have hardly been used (no white though).

Hi, I just thought the figure modelling crew might be the best to answer this query. I'm soon going to be painting some fine white camouflage detailing on a 1/700 ship model - streaks and lines over a dark grey base - and wondered if anyone has experience of a good (opaque) white paint that covers well with a fine brush with little need for multiple strokes or coats? Vallejo might be OK - but I need to practise. Any suggestions welcomed. Cheers, GrahamB

Ian, your FAA camouflage book is excellent and your research on the use of duck egg blue/green term is almost certainly definitive. It remains a puzzle as to why the blue aspect was introduced but this was part of the conundrum I was trying to sort out for myself and why it didn't match with my perception of the MAP chip as reproduced in the Millman PDF and Real Colours book. I am perturbed by the comments by Jamie about me, and receiving another lecture about research, "being on to something" etc. Also, Millman in the Real Colours book states categorically that the ingredients/composition of the Sky changed - although whether this influenced the actual colour (shifting from a putative bluish-green [Camotint?] to a more yellowish green?) is moot. Anyway, I think this should wrap things up. From far-away New Zealand - no British National Archives near at hand!

Well, I consider myself thoroughly chastised and lectured-up after reading the replies. Main points for me to go away and digest are: Sky was only the one thing, eye-witnesses from the period are not to be believed (e.g. the excellent Michael Bowyer), many people on this forum cannot perceive subtleties in language (re the chicken egg thing particularly!), and they underestimate people's intelligence and experience (re all the various lectures, off the main point of my post). Trying to make connections/joining the dots was a simple motive for me to ask about the MAP Sky chip. Let's leave it there.

Hi Graham, where does it say that I am definite about this? The whole point of the post is to enquire about the source of the MAP colour Sky as is usually depicted. Millman, Lucas, Huntley, Bowyer and others have all said that the composition/colour changed over its life. I wouldn't say duck egg blue/green is vague - and these terms do not mean anything (to me) when I see the MAP colour - sickly yellowish grey (one of my chickens lays beautiful duck-egg blue/green eggs - nothing like MAP Sky). In some period colour photos, especially of later FAA aircraft the Sky looks almost off-white, but still with that yellowish look. I don't think I'm being osbcure or pedantic about what the original duck-egg blue/green Sky looked like.

Without wanting to start a whole new long topic about RAF Sky I'm just wanting clarification of the MAP/BS381 colour. I have not seen in any of the various articles about Sky, even in Nick Millman's PDF issue, the origin/date of this chip (reproduced in the RAF Colours book and the more recent Real Colours....). If it is the same as the post war BS381 colour does this mean that the Sky represented is a late war iteration? It certainly does not suggest to me duck egg blue/duck egg blue-green/light sea green etc of the Titanine Camotint and early WW2 period Sky- more like a sickly yellowish grey. It is rather pointless doing various colour matching for, example, BOB period aircraft if this MAP colour is a red herring (so to speak). What did Camotint/Sky 1940-ish really look like?

Good stuff Frank. The more you do, the better you get at things like painting (try more muted colours), delicate washes (don't overdo it on subjects like Titanic though), and the dreaded rigging. Stretchy thread (Ezyline and equivalents) is best in many ways but there are pitfalls. Have a look at the http://www.modelwarships.com site for excellent techniques and information on ship models. Don't give up.

Thanks for all the comments - it is useful to air these subjects now and then. I think I will stick with Aluminium dope for the undersides. The appearance is not incompatible with this - the fairly dark tone (not in glancing light) would fit with the 22.5% reflectivity mentioned by Paul Lucas, and its shine could produce the bright highlights indicated in the photo above. When at Wick the DH.91 was initially operating with Coastal Command Hudsons that were possibly changing from Aluminium to Sky. A large aircraft, the photos show very patchy Dark Earth - lightened significantly in place by over-thinning - stretching out the supply of paint. Quite a task, so the underside colour may not have been a priority - and was not "wrong". Cheers, GrahamB

Kia ora Steve, yes, I'm going with Aluminium dope for the undersides now. Someone suggested a mix of Tamiya Flat Aluminium and Royal Pale Grey (I could use also Sky Grey or similar) to dull and reduce the "sparkle" in the metallic paint. Just had to order some paint from Hobby City up in Auckland. It is a lovely aircraft and the kit is OK too - just the usual care and dry-fitting needed for its short-run nature. I've made things hugely complicated by doing perhaps too much. Cheers, Graham

I'm not sure about the cylinder head fairings being natural metal. I am trying to show that the underside colour is quite bright when in direct light - note how it brightens on the rear fuselage where the curvature begins to reflect more - this is what the pointer indicates.

Well, it's decision time for my Valom DH.91 Albatros conversion (see work in progress thread. Under surface colour: yellow, Sky or aluminium dope?? Votes, anyone? Cheers, GrahamB P.S. yellow is a horrid colour in model paints and I hate the sparkly and sub orange-peel look in most (all/) acrylic metal paints - I cannot get on with these. But... if needs must.....

The Krystal Kleer was an experiment as I've never liked the purple coloured maskol stuff. I might use it as an alternative to the kit windows (already fitted) if they look bad. The cockpit canopy (to be masked) will be added after painting, ideally with acetate, and strip failing that with Krystal Kleer.

Hi there, it's been a bit quiet on this thread but I have been busy. The fuselage and wing modifications had gone along without major problems - only myself creating unnecessary work - but most of the time since has been dealing with the wing-fuselage attachment. One side seemed fine but the other (starboard) revealed a big gap between the wing and the fuselage panel. Also there was a big gap on the forward transverse join. I think this has to do with the spars and u/c partitioning pieces interfering with the fuselage floor, and the main spar being slightly adrift on one side (very slight mismatch in dihedral). It took a bit of fiddling, re-skinning and filling to get this right. I should have spent more time dry-fitting beforehand. The other part of the kit I didn't like was the landing light transparencies - a poor fit, and I'm sure this hasn't been properly corrected here - life is too short. Another "issue"" that comes along is the cockpit canopy going AWOL (ugh!)- I'll have to build one up from acetate. Anyway, it's down to the last bit of careful sanding and patching before final prime coat. Now the BIG QUESTION IS: what is that undersurface colour? Aluminium, yellow, Sky (regulation - but which of its various iterations/formulae - early with blue pigment?) or Sky substitute (duck-egg green/blue??) Any votes? Cheers, GrahamB

This is very impressive and incredibly well-detailed at this 1/700 scale. Amazing job. I haven't yet ventured to do the various insulators and blocks on rigging and aerials, even at 1/350 - it would require some practice on test rigs probably. I've been using brown Easythread (?) for the rope rigging (de-stranded for halyards in 1/350, and mostly halved in width for 1/700) but it looks too pale and would need painting a darker hemp colour. I've found some very thin embroidery thread of a rope colour that works for 1/350 mooring/towing ropes (possibly OK for 1/700 at a pinch) - on HMS Mermaid - I run it through diluted white pva glue (between my thumb and forefinger) to reduce/eliminate the fibrous look. Keep up the good work!

Lovely finish and paint job. I've an Airfix 1/72 MTB but there is only one camouflage scheme suitable for the type number/s.