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Mig Eater

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Everything posted by Mig Eater

  1. I haven't seen anyone else mention this but I've had similar problems in the past when the resin wasn't mixed thoroughly enough so it didn't cure/adhere to the build plate correctly.
  2. I hate to be picky but... The 75mm M2 gun used on the M4 Sherman started as the T6 anti-aircraft gun and the 90mm M3 used on the M36 an M26 Pershing was modified from the 90mm M1 anti-aircraft gun. Using the 120mm M1 as the base for the T34's 120mm T53 gun was just a continuation of standard practices. The German 88mm gets way to much credit in this regard IMO when modifying anti-aircraft guns into anti-tank guns was done by every major combatant during WW2 😕 I presume you're referencing the 120mm M1 and not the 120mm T53 but your wording makes it sound like the T34 could shot at aircraft 😅 I've actually been thinking about making a what-if SPAAG version of the T29/T30/T34 fitted with a standard 120mm M1 in place of the turret so this made me giggle 😋
  3. Last year was my first Blitz build and I had a lot of fun, I found the time restraint a good motivator and resulted in me actually finishing something for a change 😅 I have a few small kits I could use but I might 3D print something again...
  4. I was planing to design and 3D print a 1/35 VK 45.02(H) for the GB but because of some technical issues I wont be able too now, I'm glad to see that someone else is going to bring this nearly forgotten tank design to life tho, I look forward to seeing your progress.
  5. With direct modelling software like Blender or 3DS Max you can manually sculpt the texture or you can make a height/bump map and then apply it over the surface of the model.
  6. Been looking for this kit for awhile but I can only find the version that has the Karl and its train transporter, dont want to spend twice as much on parts I dont want 😞 Anyway I look forward to seeing more of the build, espeshialy the Munitionschlepper, I haven't see one of those built before.
  7. LOD (Level of detail) it's used by computer games to help optimize the amount of computer memory the game uses while rendering objects. It does this by decreasing the amount of polygons a 3D model has the further away the model is from the players view. This doesn't change the size/scale of a 3D model, just simplifies its shape. Unlike computer games 3D printers dont care about the amount of polygons a model has, in fact the more polygons a 3D model has the better. When you're changing the scale of a 3D printed model the issue is the position of the polygons in relation to each other and not the amount of polygons the 3D model has.
  8. The SMK was basically a stretched Kv-1 so when in doubt you can use the Kv as a reference.
  9. If you send me a scan of the decals I can clean them up & remove the hue, send me a PM if you're interested.
  10. I find this all very intriguing as I've never encountered or even heard of issues with UV resin being to cold before. I have my printer on the top floor of the house were the temperature is around 20° for most of the year, so I've probably been living in blissful ignorance. I'm curious what sort of temperature variation are you having to deal with that necessitate having to heat your resin/printer? If the resin is to cold what will happen to the prints?
  11. The basic functions of Chitubox, Lychee and Anycubic's software are all the same so it wont really change how a finished print looks. The main difference between each program is the user interface and different tools that can make your work flow easier etc. So I'd suggest giving them all a try and seeing what one works best for you.
  12. I use a UV lamp inside a custom made wooden box. I'll typically put the part(s) under the lamp, go make a cup of tea and then completely forget about them for the next few hours 😅 The surface of UV resin parts can be cured in 5-10 minutes, depending on the size/thickness of the part. If you leave the parts to cure longer (20 minutes etc) then they will start to discolour, especially with white or transparent resin, but if you plan to paint the parts it doesn't really matter tho. If like me you have accidentally left a part under a lamp for hours the resin will over-cure and become hard and brittle. However with a bit of extra care during clean up the parts can still be used without much issues. So in short, anything longer then 5 minutes will generally be fine.
  13. Schurzen was first added to the Panzer IV in March 1943 two months before the Axis forces in Africa surrendered, so it would have to be a factory fresh tank rushed to Africa only days before the surrender. The photo could have been taken later in southern Italy as they used tropical uniforms there too.
  14. Airfix TSR-2 kits often sell for £100, so yeah I would say £30 was "reasonable" 🤪 I have one in the stash that I bought back when they were £30, I've been tempted to sell it a few times but I would like to build a TSR-2 someday and I'm not sure if I'll be able to get another one the future.
  15. If you cross a Tiger I and a Tiger II you get the VK 45.02(H), which is what I'm planing to build 😅
  16. I think the prospect of having to build two different models within the time limit of a GB could be a bit off putting as some struggle to finish even one in time. While there are some people here that have entire stashes devoted to a single type, others might not have two suitable model kits at hand too. It's a shame that the GB probably wont get though the bunfight tho, it would have been very interesting to see all the different approaches to each build.
  17. BTW welds on rusty surfaces often remain shiny, adding this can be a great way to add some extra detail to rusty parts.
  18. That's the MG151 in the "Drilling" mount, the MG151 was originally designed for use in fighter planes, later in the war the Luftwaffe started to replace the MG151 with newer larger guns leaving a large surplus of MG151s available. Many of the guns were then repurposed for ground use and the MG151's light wight and low recoil design meant that they could be fitted to just about anything, here is a truck fitted with two of them etc.
  19. Well those dates should give me plenty of time to completely forget about the GB and then rush to design the 3D printed parts I need for my build at the last minute 😅
  20. I dont own a laser cutter myself so I can't give in depth advice, I do own several kits with laser cut styrene parts tho and haven't had any problems with the parts being warped etc. Just the edges are a bit melted and needed a quick sanding.
  21. A laser cutter would be a better tool for cutting styrene sheets, plotters are typically designed for cutting softer vinyl materials. You can buy a cheap laser cutter for a few hundred euros now days, most FDM 3D printers can also be modified into a laser cutter too. So if you're interested in 3D printing you could save some space by having one machine that does both.
  22. @Noel Smith I hadn't seen Rafal's build yet He has done a great job, the most accurate build I've seen of this vehicle. @Admiral Puff The article you sent me is a great starting point on how I could approach building the wheels, it's much appreciated. @Bozothenutter Copperstate posted an unfinished CAD render of the Tsar on Facebook a year ago asking if there was any interested in a such a kit. Since then there hasn't been any updates, or even a conformation that they will produce a kit in the future. I'd prefer to scratch build one myself now instead of sitting around waiting on the possibility of a kit being released.
  23. I want to build the Tsar/Lebedenko tank in 1/35, scratch building the tank part wont be a problem but the wheels scare me. They are obviously very different from the wheels you'd find on a car (they are 9m in diameter!) but I thought this would be the best place to ask for advice as car modelers would have the most experience with wire wheels.
  24. I'm currently finishing off my build in the Czechmates GB, once I'm done I can then focus of this build.
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