sergant-san

Great, thank you.

What a great build. Do you, by any chance, have part number for the seats from Pavla. Thanks in advance.

Alan, Does it spray water with old and new nozzle? Also, are there any air leaks in the areas where syphon connects to airbrush? just couple of ideas.

Strange, I have few of Model Air and Game Air paints and they are as thin as they can be.. and I usually spray them from H&S Silverline 0.4 with no thinning, just a drop or two of flow improver.. I usually mix then in the tea candle aluminium cup before getting them in to the airbrush.. For my 0.2 ultra I thin them about 50/50 with thinner and add 1-2 drops of flow improver.. However, i paint mini figures and I need multiple thin coats

For 0.2 needle you need to thin paints more than for the 0.3 or 0.4 needles. Also, thin paints outside of the air brush and not in the paint cup so the mix is more even and you can pick out any splodges out before they stuck in the nozzle.

The bubbles in the cup are likely to be caused by the nozzle not being fully tightened or there is a foreign object between the seal and the body of the airbrush. I has an issue where broken hair from the cleaning brush got between seal and the body and caused bubbles in the cup. Bubbles in the trigger area suggest blown or damaged needle seal which is located between trigger and the cup. There should be a slight tension when you inserting needle into an airbrush. If you do not feel that tension, replace the needle seal.

I prefer to mix the paint + thinner + flow improver in the separate pot rather than in the airbrush cup. It adds few seconds, but you get better consistency. Could be a fleck of paint stuck in the nozzle and prevented full contact between needle and the nozzle.

I found those "no name" airbrushes to be hit and miss. Bought 3 different ones and managed to build one from all parts that works more or less OK ( use it for scenery currently and my son using it for school projects ). Also got a H&S Ultra 0.4 and Evolution Silverline 0.15 and 0.2. Found an interesting thing with Ultra, which can cause some issues, if your paint is not thin enough you running a risk of trapping air bubbles between nozzle and paint cup. this causing a formation of dry paint inside the nozzle which results in splattering... Easily cured by ensuring that paints are thin enough to prevent bubble formation.

Paul, are they come under different part number on your website or they are just a direct replacement with the same part number? Looking to get a 0.2 and 0.4 needles.

So when are the v2 needles are going to hit the shelves of the hobby shops?

Good to hear that it is all working for you..

I have to agree, they look good. :)

0.4mm is OK for miniatures: base coating and highlights.. you are not painting the eyes with it anyway. It just less prone to dry-needle with some of the acrylics. Vallejo whites still dry like mad on the tip and inside the nozzle even with flow improver.. Scale75 and MIgAmmo are joy to use though..

From looking at the pictures it looks like custom trigger design, custom lettering and custom paint cup cap. Possible custom tapered needle. Not 100% sure if it is worth the extra over the standard H&S airbrushes.. just my 2p..

As per Paul's advise got H&S Ultra 2in1 set for priming and base-coating needs.. Tried yesterday to prime a model with Vallejo primer while using 0.4 needle.. works great.. Thank you Paul for your advice.

For some reason, yellows work best with pinkish base-coat. Also, as Adrian said : multiple thin coats..

Add a drop or two of Vallejo Flow Improver to the mix. I found that Vallejo thinner makes paint dry quicker on the tip. For me on 0.2 evolution at 18psi the best combination is 60:20:20 - paint : thinner : flow improver. For Citadel yellows, it drops to 50:20:30..

+0.5mm of up/down movement on the trigger..

thanks Paul, 3/4 of a turn gave me another .5 mm play which is more comfortable.

You can control the airflow with the trigger to an extent, but the trigger travel distance from 0% to 100% air is very small, about 2mm - 3mm on Evolution. The question was, is it possible to increase that trigger travel distance?

Is there any way to adjust the air-valve on my airbrush so the movement from off to 100% air is more than 2mm?

You can use it for brush painting but you will need more coats..

Thanks.

Got an H&S Evolution Silverline airbrush and time has come to change the seals. What sealing kit would be the best - H&S part numbers: 123910 or 123911?

Badger recommends to use MODELflex airbrush cleaner.