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Oliver70

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    Male
  • Location
    Germany
  • Interests
    Red Army Armour
    WWII & Cold War

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  1. Oliver70
    Still wanna go back to vinyl tracks one day? Now that's a classical case of ""Return on Investment": The metal tracks, along with the RB barrel, add a lot to an already stunning build. It's also impressive how well you managed to adapt the new parts to the overall weathering state of the ISU. Congratulations, Francis, for an overhaul fabulously done.
  2. Oliver70
    That sounds great, Francis! So it's a Zvezda kit, then? They're quite simple, not over-engineered, but close enough to the real thing. Just right to add some resin and PE flavour, hehe. Please don't forget to take some lovely photos for us while you're at it
  3. Oliver70
    Yes, I meant exactly that! It works best if the two links move really smooth against each other, like a good hinge. It's a tedious precise work that requires attention to detail, but it delivers results. My pretty little herd of T-34 acknowledges this and gives a thumbs-up, too.
  4. Oliver70
    Well, what a happy coincidence that you could indeed "borrow" the method to fix that drive sprocket wheel from Clive's current M3 build. Congratulations, Francis! Those AK tracks show a beautiful detail and there is even a very fine "split link gap". Did you also experience the nice sensation, when all of a sudden the links just "fall" in their right place when you pull them over the return rollers? What a pretty, all-natural track sag... And since you already mentioned the difference (and what a huge one it is!) from the Original Zvezda parts, maybe you would like to join my "Gentlemen Modeller's Guild for the Disrespectful Treatment of Vinyl Tracks", GMGDTVT... Good luck with the next steps of your restoration project, and have fun bringing the beautiful beast back to her old glory.
  5. Oliver70
    I'm sorry, of course, I did not want to raise a "false alarm". I did a little bit of further research - The tracks seems to be okay. Those seem to be of the "650mm OMSH" type. Although there is a different sprocket wheel on the KV/SU series, the general track geometry will probably fit to all "big" soviet armour of that time. And along with all that friendly track sag, one can always compensate for some 2-3 millimeters. Maybe I got a little bit too nervous about that. But imho it's always better to be proven wrong than having an expensive little heap of scrap metal on the workbench, isn't it. Good luck, wish you all the best for that overhaul, Francis!
  6. Oliver70
    Hello Francis, that was really a good idea to spice up your fabulous ISU with some better parts. But, is this really the correct set of tracks? AFAIK the ISU-152 is based on a different chassis, the same as IS-2 and IS-3 tanks. The tracks are built for KV-1 and SU-152 (not ISU) and therefore refer to the Voroshilov tank drive train. They definitely had different sprocket wheels. If you look at tracks from Master Club (MTL-35026, MTL-35028) and Friul (ATL-10, ATL-14, ATL-34), you might notice that they indeed make a difference there. I hope you can avoid any kind of disappointment, maybe you can double-check this at home. P.S. And concerning the application of superglue: Kudos to the other gentlemen, and sometimes "less is more"
  7. Oliver70
    Francis, I would like you to do some very dirty things for us. Especially if there are metal tracks and Russian WWII howitzers involved. P.S. Got my own ISU-152 on the workbench right now...
  8. Oliver70
    Awesome job so far, Steve, with that W-2! I especially like the fine wiring. Maybe you can give the "non-Russians" a size reference how "mighty" that engine block really is in 1/35.
  9. Oliver70
    Woo-hoo, I've got that one on my list, too Good luck, Steve. If you already did the mighty Trumpy T-34 then things should go well.
  10. Oliver70
    Pretty nice. But why did you leave out the weathering for the mantlet and main gun. Or did the Lego guys clean it up in their spare time I have this beast on my own bench right now (although without those expensive Friuls). Beautiful kit.
  11. Oliver70 started following PATTON GOES TO WAR (VIETNAM) M48A3 PATTON TAMIYA-FINISHED (ADDED SOME REAL PHOTOS) , ISU-152 Tamiya 1/35 and M1 Assault Breacher Vehicle
  12. Oliver70
    Thank you for that reply, Francis. I am completely with you when it comes to add-ons. You pointed it out pretty well, I think. Anyway, when you decide to start a new kit, I'm pretty sure you will have quite a lot of spectators by now.
  13. Oliver70
    Well, as a matter of fact some of them do. And at times they're able and willing to pay quite a lot of money for it. But don't tell my wife.
  14. Oliver70
    Well, what can you say. Another job well done, Francis! A fantastic choice of weathering and 'field maintenance', methinks. I have to admit that I initially had my worries how the vinyl tracks would turn out (maybe you remember) but they're as lifelike as can be. Also thanks a lot for that excellent reference photos. Cheers, what a fabulous beast. Congratulations. Hope to see another work from you in the near future.
  15. Oliver70
    Double post. Silly me.
  16. Oliver70
    I'm sorry about that, Francis, I've got no camera at my disposition right now. So I am not quite able to show it to you in a decent way. I built my M48A2 as a machine in peacetime condition, well maintained but frequently used. Painted the steel bits reddish brown and added rust pigments. Treated the rubber cushions with a sharp scalpel (Xacto type #2) and broke some odd bits out of it to add some flavour. Taa-daa. So nothing special at all. The point I way trying to make was, that on those T97E2 are steel rods, rubber cushions and steel links on the in- and outside. There are some photo walkarounds out there that show that composition quite well. You might have a long tedious painting session with the vinyl tracks since those components are moulded together (which obviously is in the nature of the game). Of course it's all up to you and I wish you all the best fun you can have while doing it. If you choose to do a good old 'Nam weathering, then this will probably disappear under a thick crust of reddish mud, anyway. Problem solved, hooray!
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