Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Tim K

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

145 Excellent

About Tim K

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I am three quarters the way to finnishing a 1/72 swordfish in greys and black as suggested by the humbrol/airfix kit. My airbrush is in storage so I'm painting using Tamya paints. The colours look correct but they are far too bright. I'm thinking of brushing on the greys a filter to tone them down and make it look more realistic but don't really know where to start. The black (black Tamya rattle can) underneath I'm going to use oil dot technique but would like advice on colours of oil dots to blend. Any advice gratefully received. Thanks in anticipation Tim K
  2. The rigging... I want to say is from invisible thread BUT is in storage near Edinburgh... If it was in the shopping bag under the table I would have used it... . You've said something I did think about, perhaps your comment is enough for me to buy some more Ezi line and Gas Patch turn-buckles... Watch this space
  3. Not the usuall at all... For the last 6 months I've been unable to do any serious modelling. All my modelling equipment has been bought at ASDA, Hobbycraft and Scoonie Hobbies, Kirkcaldy and kept in a supermarket bag. My modelling area has been the back garden and a A4 modelling mat. My stash of kits and more serious equipment, air brush, thinners, extractor brushes and paints etc etc are in storeage. My goal is to complete a WIngNut Wings and to this end completed two biplanes last year and 75% completd a third but evrything came to a halt in May this year. The Itch to complete something has been helped by a Harrier with my grandson and this latest offering. The olive drab representing PC12 was from a Tamya spray can the rest was brush painted. I wanted to complete a biplane but at the time of visiting Hobbycraft Stockport the closest thing to one was Starfighter X wing. Undaunted i pressed on... So practising wood paneling oil dot blending and enhancing moulded structures I began "In a far off galaxy" Metals had become very expensive but plywood was very cheap! The rebels using all there recycling skills to eke out their limited resources built this special to celebrate their for fathers... of two World Wars back on Earth. Of interest too me the panel lines were brush painted in using water colour pencils. The metal paints used were Tamya silver, iron and metallic blue. The goldy colours were the silver mixed with Acrylic yellow ink which produced anything from a rich gold to a bleached out one. As you can see the base I couldn't really be bothered with it was the model and its use as a practice was where i concentrated my efforts. The underneath wing was painted with Enamel colour approximating to doped lined but then I sprayed with a Tamya acrylic varnish and yes the inevitable happened it crazed! The oil dot technique used Winsor and Newton dark umber, light umber and yellow. I wanted to get a graduation from a darker leading edge (straight edge) to a lighter trailing edge (diagonal edge) The panels lines brushed in with watercolour pencils varnished and then the oil dot technique. The end result not quite what I was after but alot better than monochrome colour. To make the moulded detail pop, again it was watercolour pencils and brushed round the details and adjusted. Overall I'm pleased and itching to get on with WNW kit.
  4. Thank you for all the kind and positive comments cheers guys Tim
  5. On a wet summer day Alex (8yrs my favourite Grandson!!) chose a Harrier from the Starter Kits to put together. How fortuitous because the kit was based on a Harrier from RAF Wildenrath 1974. As a RAF Cadet (School) I had spent a wonderful week at this base in 1974 with other UK School based RAF Cadets. My daughters kitchen table was going to be the construction site! Other things bought, a tray, some nail cutters, cocktail sticks, a set of make up brushes, nail files, silver and gloss Humbrol acrylic range and cheapest Asda superglue. My aim was to build the kit quickly enough so that Alex's attention span didn't flag, something that we could both enjoy and didnt turn into a trial... Organisation In the tray, glues away from the kit pieces, seperate food trays for parts to be glued and those glued, washing hands, washing brushes and crossing off on the instruction sheet all helped to keep some asemblance of organisation. Putting together We followed the instruction sheet closely and used my experience as to when to paint, when to glue and when to leave. It also allowed me to practice some skills - dry brushing and use of water colour pencils. Alex cut the parts from the runners using scissors and he\we nipped the lugs off with straight and curved nail clippers. Gluing we used the kit glue and cocktail sticks. I usually gave most joins a run of superglue to speed the process up. What Alex could do and what I had to do, evolved during the build until Alex was cutting the parts out, nipping the lugs off and then sanding these parts. The fuselage join needed a phased gluing with "plastic' and 'super glue' with clothes pegs. This was done while we were putting together the under carriage fuel tanks and rocket pods. Painting We used the kit paints and the kit brushes. We used 4 straight strips of masking tape. Painting I drew the out lines and Alex blocked in the colours. He was surprised beyond belief - when I asked for his mum's hair dryer! The paint dried so quickly esp. with the hairdryer that we could paint almost continuously and the paints at this level were excellent one coat covered mistakes. Breaks for sandwiches water tea were generally governed by Alex. Stickers!!/Transfers Alex thought the transfers were stickers, so he found it very frustrating, to have to place them in water and then put them on the model, this took more time that he could give... We discussed whether to put the wheels on or not, I persuaded him to keep them off because they would break far too easily doing touch and goes and attacking his Lego. I did some touching up and practised some of my skills when he was a sleep. Mistakes not many but gluing one of the fuel tanks the wrong way round was mine! Two days and the job was done it will be interesting to see whether Alex wants to make another, when Grandad comes to look after him during the School hols?
  6. Cockpit structure --- if I remember correctly,, it was all very tight. i think there was a lot of sanding and dry fitting, again I think I glued the cockpit structure to the fuselage and then glued that to the lower wing
  7. SE5a Revell (Eduard) 1/48 Pheon decals I have never made a biplane but have wanted to model a Wingnut Wings. So I decided to model a cheaper kit and see what results I could reach? I am partially colour blind so used the AK Interactive paint kits, Clear Doped Linen, 3 colours and WW1 RFC & RNAS 4 colours. Rigging line : EZ line (fine) and some V.Fine Uschi van Roten I think Trnbuckles Albion Alloys TB2 1/32 scale but cut in half. Unlike most of my previous kits this was a joy. It’s the first time trying to make wood grain and while it is a bit clumsy the new technique tamya paint, winsor and Newton oils tamya clear orange. The results were satisfactory. Airbrushing: AK Interactive paints thinned with Lifecolor thinners worked ok Mini disaster as the softening decal solution got under the Humbrol varnish (perhaps the layer was too thin) and messed up the large T on upper wing, After remedial airbrushing and varnish I used another “T” from the Pheon range although its not quite the right font – devil rides when needs must. Placing the wings 4 may be 5 attempts and in the end removed most of the lugs from the lugs superglued in 0.3mm dia brass wire, drilled holes in the wings and fuselage. When the fine diameter wires were in all the holes it gave me a semi rigid structure that I could move around and line things up…. I am a retired dentist so used silicone impression material to make an impression of the lower surface upper wing and cast it in quick etting resin – materials I was used to handling when I had a day job. I used this as a jig to glue the struts to the lower wing and then replaced this when things were set with the upper wing and dropped runny superglue through the holes in the upper wing Then over a week set about the rigging. Wingnut Wings SE5a gave rigging instructions were used in the main because I couldn’t find super detail instructions as to where the locating places were. My method of rigging I don’t know whether its novel or a mix of other modellors. Superglue one end, run the turn buckles on, stretch slightly and super glue the other end, then put the turn buckles in the correct positions and superglue them in place. Painting the rigging – didn’t know whether to or not – so as this was an experimental model for me decided to use Mr Metal Color Aluminum. If nothing else it filled in the slight unsightly gap in the turnbuckle brass tube and with a bit of artistic license and a kind eye of the beholder it might look like air foil rigging wires…. Pleased Yes! Beats a nonsensical F40 I finished recently. Any comments good or otherwise gratefully received.
  8. This kit was bought from a charity shop together with a Jaguar Something or other. Cost about £5.00 some ten years ago. My last modelling a diorama took some months I was looking for something easy and cheap to bash out hopefully over a weekend. The chassis went together really well with all four wheels touching the glass plate. There after most things went wrong. I tried a quick spray gloss on the clear parts.... that didn't work even after days of sanding and polishing. A home made decal to hide some of the worst areas of the glass didnt work it came out far too pale. I made some clear parts from clear sheet acrylic head light covers and near driver side window. The inside (seating area) didn't fit squarlie onto the chassis so I screwed the tub? onto the chassis before eventually gluing. The passenger door frame was warped this eventually was replaced with wire cut into the frame to give the correct shape. The engine didn't sit onto the chassis properly and the various tubes form the engine didn't fit into the orifices esp. the exhaust hole in the rear body work. The red gloss air brushed Tamya didn't cure for months. thanks for all the suggestions. The body work bonnet, body shell over the cabin and the rear opening and rear body work didn't fit together - more screws prior to gluing. It took months of painful remedial work and on and off with the lead up to Christmas and then Hogmonay - hoorah.
  9. Thank you once again. This is the first time that Lacquer Paints(LP) has been explained to me. I have even tried Googling the terms but been none the wiser afterwards. A rule of thumb I have used since A level days is If after an explanation I don't understand, then the person giving the information doesn't understand the information they are trying to put across as well! i was under the impression wrongly as it turned out that LP were cellulose based. At the recent National Model Railway Show I was in conversation with David Bancroft? and he said almost word for word what you have advised. I couldn't get my head around that acrylics he told me Halford paints were acrylic and LP. I use the above ie Mr Color levelling thinner and Tamya paints and also Tamya thinners. It really has been this Gloss Red that has really flumoxed me, I can't remember using so much Gloss ever and thought it really has been a long wait... I'm coming to the end of 1/72 Fairy Gannet silver and orange and this red Ferrrari 1/16 Italerri. The Ferrari is coming out a 3 foot kit and the gannet a foot. These are viewing distances where the faults don't show! Once agin many thanks for both comments really much appreciated both models will appear in "Ready for Inspection" hopefully in the next month
  10. I am so pleased you replied. Many Thanks. I tried Tamya main dealer in the UK and was very dissapointed with the reply. It rather confirms my experience but I didn't realise it was weeks and not days! Your results look flawless unlike mine. When you say Lacquer Paints what do you actually mean? Once again many thanks for the reply
  11. I am in the middle of a large scale Ferrari and airbrushed at 17 PSI red X7 diluted 20% approx with Tamya thinners. After 24 hours my vinyl gloves are still leaving imprints of the gloves. How long do I wait before commencing to hold the model? ie how long is the curing time?
  12. In a reply to Duncan B (Black Mike models) Not to Muddy the Waters "Got my mojo working". (Though the song is often associated with Muddy Waters, Preston Foster penned the original tune under contract at Chess. So many artists have covered this tune – Manfred Mann,Ike and Tina Turner, Paul Butterfield, Canned Heat, Clarence "Gatemouth" Brown, The Grateful Dead, B.B. King, Elvis Presley, Carl Perkins, ...) Purchased a Sopwith Camel Le Rhone from you at Scot Nats Saturday. I didn't do online stuff apart from may be Easy Jet but have really found the Britmodeller site a revelation - a big thanks for the web site. Found this thread a total inspiration! Thanks Mark yes it really has got my Mojo Working, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hEYwk0bypY - 1966 what a year!!! Tim K
  13. I had earlier done a diorama of the Paras in Afghanistan (not posted) and wanted something of the opposite... The front view. The rear view. All the figures were posed and arms legs and sometimes hands glued into a positions that I thought were more normal. There are some glaring mistakes..... All comments gratefully received.
  • Create New...