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Tim K

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  1. Cockpit structure --- if I remember correctly,, it was all very tight. i think there was a lot of sanding and dry fitting, again I think I glued the cockpit structure to the fuselage and then glued that to the lower wing
  2. SE5a Revell (Eduard) 1/48 Pheon decals I have never made a biplane but have wanted to model a Wingnut Wings. So I decided to model a cheaper kit and see what results I could reach? I am partially colour blind so used the AK Interactive paint kits, Clear Doped Linen, 3 colours and WW1 RFC & RNAS 4 colours. Rigging line : EZ line (fine) and some V.Fine Uschi van Roten I think Trnbuckles Albion Alloys TB2 1/32 scale but cut in half. Unlike most of my previous kits this was a joy. It’s the first time trying to make wood grain and while it is a bit clumsy the new technique tamya paint, winsor and Newton oils tamya clear orange. The results were satisfactory. Airbrushing: AK Interactive paints thinned with Lifecolor thinners worked ok Mini disaster as the softening decal solution got under the Humbrol varnish (perhaps the layer was too thin) and messed up the large T on upper wing, After remedial airbrushing and varnish I used another “T” from the Pheon range although its not quite the right font – devil rides when needs must. Placing the wings 4 may be 5 attempts and in the end removed most of the lugs from the lugs superglued in 0.3mm dia brass wire, drilled holes in the wings and fuselage. When the fine diameter wires were in all the holes it gave me a semi rigid structure that I could move around and line things up…. I am a retired dentist so used silicone impression material to make an impression of the lower surface upper wing and cast it in quick etting resin – materials I was used to handling when I had a day job. I used this as a jig to glue the struts to the lower wing and then replaced this when things were set with the upper wing and dropped runny superglue through the holes in the upper wing Then over a week set about the rigging. Wingnut Wings SE5a gave rigging instructions were used in the main because I couldn’t find super detail instructions as to where the locating places were. My method of rigging I don’t know whether its novel or a mix of other modellors. Superglue one end, run the turn buckles on, stretch slightly and super glue the other end, then put the turn buckles in the correct positions and superglue them in place. Painting the rigging – didn’t know whether to or not – so as this was an experimental model for me decided to use Mr Metal Color Aluminum. If nothing else it filled in the slight unsightly gap in the turnbuckle brass tube and with a bit of artistic license and a kind eye of the beholder it might look like air foil rigging wires…. Pleased Yes! Beats a nonsensical F40 I finished recently. Any comments good or otherwise gratefully received.
  3. This kit was bought from a charity shop together with a Jaguar Something or other. Cost about £5.00 some ten years ago. My last modelling a diorama took some months I was looking for something easy and cheap to bash out hopefully over a weekend. The chassis went together really well with all four wheels touching the glass plate. There after most things went wrong. I tried a quick spray gloss on the clear parts.... that didn't work even after days of sanding and polishing. A home made decal to hide some of the worst areas of the glass didnt work it came out far too pale. I made some clear parts from clear sheet acrylic head light covers and near driver side window. The inside (seating area) didn't fit squarlie onto the chassis so I screwed the tub? onto the chassis before eventually gluing. The passenger door frame was warped this eventually was replaced with wire cut into the frame to give the correct shape. The engine didn't sit onto the chassis properly and the various tubes form the engine didn't fit into the orifices esp. the exhaust hole in the rear body work. The red gloss air brushed Tamya didn't cure for months. thanks for all the suggestions. The body work bonnet, body shell over the cabin and the rear opening and rear body work didn't fit together - more screws prior to gluing. It took months of painful remedial work and on and off with the lead up to Christmas and then Hogmonay - hoorah.
  4. Thank you once again. This is the first time that Lacquer Paints(LP) has been explained to me. I have even tried Googling the terms but been none the wiser afterwards. A rule of thumb I have used since A level days is If after an explanation I don't understand, then the person giving the information doesn't understand the information they are trying to put across as well! i was under the impression wrongly as it turned out that LP were cellulose based. At the recent National Model Railway Show I was in conversation with David Bancroft? and he said almost word for word what you have advised. I couldn't get my head around that acrylics he told me Halford paints were acrylic and LP. I use the above ie Mr Color levelling thinner and Tamya paints and also Tamya thinners. It really has been this Gloss Red that has really flumoxed me, I can't remember using so much Gloss ever and thought it really has been a long wait... I'm coming to the end of 1/72 Fairy Gannet silver and orange and this red Ferrrari 1/16 Italerri. The Ferrari is coming out a 3 foot kit and the gannet a foot. These are viewing distances where the faults don't show! Once agin many thanks for both comments really much appreciated both models will appear in "Ready for Inspection" hopefully in the next month
  5. I am so pleased you replied. Many Thanks. I tried Tamya main dealer in the UK and was very dissapointed with the reply. It rather confirms my experience but I didn't realise it was weeks and not days! Your results look flawless unlike mine. When you say Lacquer Paints what do you actually mean? Once again many thanks for the reply
  6. I am in the middle of a large scale Ferrari and airbrushed at 17 PSI red X7 diluted 20% approx with Tamya thinners. After 24 hours my vinyl gloves are still leaving imprints of the gloves. How long do I wait before commencing to hold the model? ie how long is the curing time?
  7. In a reply to Duncan B (Black Mike models) Not to Muddy the Waters "Got my mojo working". (Though the song is often associated with Muddy Waters, Preston Foster penned the original tune under contract at Chess. So many artists have covered this tune – Manfred Mann,Ike and Tina Turner, Paul Butterfield, Canned Heat, Clarence "Gatemouth" Brown, The Grateful Dead, B.B. King, Elvis Presley, Carl Perkins, ...) Purchased a Sopwith Camel Le Rhone from you at Scot Nats Saturday. I didn't do online stuff apart from may be Easy Jet but have really found the Britmodeller site a revelation - a big thanks for the web site. Found this thread a total inspiration! Thanks Mark yes it really has got my Mojo Working, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hEYwk0bypY - 1966 what a year!!! Tim K
  8. I had earlier done a diorama of the Paras in Afghanistan (not posted) and wanted something of the opposite... The front view. The rear view. All the figures were posed and arms legs and sometimes hands glued into a positions that I thought were more normal. There are some glaring mistakes..... All comments gratefully received.
  9. Thought it was in the OK category as kits go added the guard rails on the bow part and refined the aerials on the ball thing
  10. I think bought the kit from model shop in Preston, Transport models? Colour I think is a French blue /grey I think I'm colour blind red green blue purple
  11. For a club competition it was anything by Dragon. I hadn't done a vessel set in water. I couldn't find the HMS Dragon kkit so used the Daring kit and made Decals from photos on the real vessel. I really enjoyed this build especially the sea scape. The bow wave was really difficult but got some way towards creating it in model form. The waves at the stern could have been better but there comes a time when enough is enough. The base waves were created using the video on youtube Basic Water bases for ship models by Sean Fallesen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqtcT_s0uOQ This was modified by placing the metal foil over polystyrene layers placed as sets of waves, then painted with black, turquoise and blue. This was somewhat difficult due to my red green blue purple colour blindness... Tim K
  12. Many thanks for your kind comments eases the pain some what....
  13. DSC07078 by tim knowles, on Flickr DSC07081 by tim knowles, on Flickr
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