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Murray

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Everything posted by Murray

  1. Hey guys, As the title suggests, the nozzle in my Sparmax SP-20 just sheared when I was cleaning it, (was only finger tightening it?) Anyone know how best to get the nozzle threading out from the brush? Or should I just return to sender and have them replace it? I'd understand if the brush was old, I've not even had it a month. Thoughts? Cheers! Ugghhhhhhhh
  2. Hey everyone, Recently finished the Revellgawa Spitfire Mk.IX, I used some aftermarket decals to depict a machine based in Normandy in 1944. Also a Eduard photo etch fret to spruce up the the cockpit. The value of this kit OOB, detail, fit, engineering - is spectacular. I would recommend this kit to anyone, of any ability. Without further ado, here it is! And for those interested in the build process, here is the thread and a video I made to show it all a bit clearer: Cheers everyone!
  3. Murray

    Hasegawa's Spitfire Mk.IX

    Cheers Chris! It really is, I wasn't aware of it the technical flaws of the kit, still it went to together nicely and I glad you liked it, thanks! Thanks mate! Thanks! Surely the fuselage length can't be that noticeable then, as you said it still builds well quickly so it was still fun. Thanks, in reality they are both that ambiguous 'sky' creamy colour, not sure why they came out a bit pink in those photos I like your strategy of just parking it further away from more accurate spits to solve the problem hahah Thanks everyone!
  4. I forgot to mention, if you're watching the embedded video, be sure to bump the quality up to 1080p on the settings tab on the embedded link on screen. Also the kit on screen was a practice so not my finest. I hadn't planned on showing it but I figured why not. It might be helpful/entertaining to some. I was practicing for other modern jet trainers. I also forgot to mention the biggest takeaway I found, GLOVES! The amount the marks/dirt/blemishes/stuff/crud that come from clean hands that can mess with a glossy paint scheme is incredible. Cheers Builder, glad you liked it!
  5. Been a while since posting on here, finished a couple and started a few since. One that crossed the finish line was the L-39 from Eduard... From this kit (they reboxed the hell out of it) enough waffle, here's some beauty shots... In place of a series of photos of the build, I opted to just make a video of the full build process, owing to Pinterests horrific upload system. Hope you enjoy! (Also more stills at the end of the vid) Cheers!
  6. Been a while since I posted, got really lazy when it came to doing the decals but last night I made a start... Started with the roundels on the wings, I tried using the Sky Models roundels for this. I had a really hard time getting them to conform to recesses so I picked them off and then made to start painting them on myself. Annoyingly I ripped up the stencils that denote where you can stand on the wing - so they jumped the queue on decals to be painted on instead. Then came the roundel... And lastly the red and blue... I'll use the Sky decal squadron markings and also probably the roundels on the fuselage as theres not much surface detail there for it to be difficult on. Although having now painted it Im a bit concerned the colours may not match up and it might look odd... Also, in other news, I got the first half of the video finaaaally finished and uploaded:
  7. Hello all, So I have made a whole lot of progress on this Spit. So much so it's together and primed and realised that being such a common kit, and I haven't seen a great deal on it, it would probably be worth sharing! The kit is a Hasegawa rebox by Revell, it can be had for as little as £10 or £11 on the likes of eBay, I picked up an Eduard PE fret for only a few pounds on top of that so it's turning into a really nice, quick, cheap and fun project. There is already a lot of detail present in the kit OOB both on the surfaces and interior, engravings are crisp and fine. The raised details are deliberate and neat. I will say that the plastic is very hard and difficult to sculpt into. Also very glossy so be sure to prime very liberally. Some of the gubbins in place. Annoyingly the Eduard PE was pre painted so I stuck it on before priming (Except the dashboard) so it would be unified with my paint. Also the holes of the frames in the cockpit had to be drilled out, they were indicated but not through and through holes. Also some pretty awful ejector pin marks on the floor that I later dispatched with a lazy pass of Mr Surfacer when I was priming. This was before sealing and weathering, all very flat looking... And after the sealing and weathering when it was all wonderfully shiny and dirty at the same time (somehow?) And after when I flattened it all back out and stuck most of it together. And after after that when I stuck the majority of it together. You can almost see your own reflection in the finish. That's all for now folks. I'm compiling video clips of the build right now to hopefully turn this all into a coherent video build soon. Hopefully gonna get a lick of paint on it soon. Also toying with the idea of painting the majority of the marks onto this bird. Might be fun. More to come! Thought this might interest some on here, thanks for reading - cheers!
  8. Murray

    L-39ZA 1/32 HPH model

    This is incredible!
  9. Thanks man! I just had a neb on your XVI thread. I would agree with what people are saying with regards to Eduard being your best bet. The Revell kit that I built (Hasegawa rebox) has the options for a high backed XVI, although it isn't a bad kit, I think the Eduard kit will be better detailed in the cockpit and also probably surface detail. Good luck with your build and I'll keep an eye out for it!
  10. I used some X-2 white (gloss) as I find XF-2 white (matt) comes out of the airbrush practically already dry, it leads to a kinda horrible texture and bad surface finish. The most nerve racking part about this build, making sure I got a whole lot of masking tape cut to the same width. It was at this point I realised I need to challenge myself more, you know, as an adult. Anyhoo, on with the black, I under thin the paint a lot so it doesn't track under the masking tape and ruin everything. I find this technique invaluable, can be seen here in one of my previous efforts, showing how far it can be pushed... Having seen some people, purists/realists and the like, debating panel shading/weather/camo colours etc at length, invasion stripes is also, as I understand a hotly debated topic. Now I know some looked like... Really roughly done, purely functional - rough. But others also looked like... My thought on the matter is this, consider there subject matter, messy invasion striping on a model you can fit on the palm of your hand may seem accidental - subtracting from the overall finished affect. With that in mind, I present a stripy spitfire. ! Any feedback? This thread has been quiet compared to most, is it that Spitfires are a super over saturated subject and no-one cares or is it what I'm posting? Cheers!
  11. Thanks man. Both your Spit (awesome kit bashing by the way) and Mustang look awesome!
  12. Some post shading to fix the super bright green, using XF-65... Finished result... I am happy with it. Not that about 95% of this paint will ever be seen... The footprint of the invasion stripes... It's gonna be a stripy machine! Does anyone have any pointers for painting invasion stripes?
  13. I forgot to mention, if you look at the photo when I just flattened the grey, that gives the best representation of the true colour. The others are too bright
  14. Yeh I agree. I was planning to go hard on highlighting the green. Also I find sealing models darkens the tones a tad, plus I weather a lot with washes. Not that much of the paint work matters as this machine is 95% invasion stripe. Thanks man!
  15. This was the same XF-82 with a bit of black mixed in... Then I toned it back with more of the base XF-82 \ I can't decide whether or not this colour combo for the machine I'm going for is alright. I think I might highlight the green to give the machine a worn, faded look. Any thoughts? Cheers
  16. Since last post, managed to finally get it all buttoned up, the canopy etc and primed. I fixed the joins which were surprisingly bad for a Hasegawa kit. I don't really agree with their mythical position of being one of the God tier modelling companies. I admit, it could have been pilot (modeller) error, but some of the joins were completely misaligned. I used Mr Surfacer 1000 and for some reason it came out gravelly almost in some places. I know it's a filler technically but I thinned it quite heavily. Odd. I polished it back with 2000 grit sanding sponge with some water. And the finished result is above. Also in the mail came some decals... Gonna go for the 602 Sqn markings. I believe its the same markings included in the 1/72nd Eduard Spit. More to follow...
  17. Murray

    B-25G in RAF livery (FR-209)

    So, since last post, I had to deal with my pesky education, but now I'm off for summer and back at this with my undivided attention. I started on the exterior finish, it's gonna take some doing to say the very least. As it stands, out of box the finish on the model looks a like this... Raised panel lines, weird blemishes on very glossy hard plastic, I imagine it would be difficult to get paint to settle well. I sanded raised details off with a couple different grits, until I found out about this little gem... With a little water, it polishes dulled plastic to a nice soft satiny finish really well! On the fabric texture of the flaps you can see how bright it was before.
  18. So after some genuine Scotland Yard style investigatory work about the mystery of B-25G's in RAF colours, which can be found here, The mystery of what I think was unanimously decided as 2 the B-25G's that were given to the RAF and painted in their livery now solved, one of the pair being this ship: I plan to paint the olive drab to emulate one of the B-25's in the film Pearl Harbour, obviously with roundels instead of stars. I figured a worn out, bust up, hand-me-down B-25 would probably look something similar! Now onto the build, the kit: Nothing impressive, a tooling probably at least as twice as old as I am. I had planned to build this OOB but something about the empty cockpit bothered me so I roughed a couple bits up, all just sat in place... A few bits need tidied up, seat belts and a coat of spray filler to prime the pilot's office for some paint! I was planning on making the kit quickly, to focus on the worn paintwork. That's all for now, hopefully get the two halves joined up together tomorrow, then I can start on fixing the raised surface detail. Has anyone got any advice for this kit? Cheers!
  19. Murray

    Corsair aficionados needed

    Hey everyone, So I want to try to convert a F4U-4B back to a F4U-1... Internal changes wont be included in this build, I was planning on just scratch building the visible differences picking up some decals to make this happen. Can anyone recommend some of the visible differences between the two types? Obviously the Spars on the canopy but I'm not sure what else, my own research left me even more confused. I was gonna try and aim for the bottom NZ Corsair: I'm not nearly as familiar with US Navy aircraft as I am with British Thanks for any help in advance!
  20. Murray

    Corsair aficionados needed

    After this outpouring of knowledge I think you might be right. Thanks for the recommendation! Thanks man! Those links had some interesting stuff, thanks! Yeh I own the Academy F4U-4 and I've read that it's an alright kit but with a but of struggling at the joins. I think you might be right with the Tamiya kit! And with that nail in the coffin, rather, 9 nails in the coffin so I lay to rest the F4U-4B conversion project. It has certainly been an education, I would like to thank you all gentlemen. I have learned a lot, and am currently sat looking at Tamiya F4U-1's on eBay. Only the other day I naively thought that they were practically the same plane. Alas not. Thank you all again chaps for sharing your veritable wealth of knowledge
  21. Murray

    P-40E Hasegawa 1/32

    Stunning finish, well in!
  22. Murray

    Airfix B-17, have I dropped a b*****k

    Rivet counters, cover your ears, shield your eyes, I would just trim the mount back so you could fit it through the hole. With a dod of CA glue on, it would be able to be installed just fine
  23. Murray

    Su-22M4 KP 1/48

    Stunning work man!
  24. Murray

    Airfix B-17, have I dropped a b*****k

    You could take a razor saw and just cut a small section out, to save you splicing the full thing? A JLC micro-saw has a kerf hardly worth mentioning (maybe a third of a millimetre?), you could simply cut a section out, pop the turret in, glue it up, I'm sure using Tamiya extra thin glue to bond the cutaway section back in place would take care of most of the join, and failing that, a small amount of filler thereafter would sort the rest? I've not built the kit but I love fixing my own (numerous) mistakes.
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