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About maverick_62

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  1. Oh, got it. I've also wasted for a few minutes trying to attach this detail, and on the last photo you can see the final result. Not the best, in real life there are no gap between wheel bay and headlight fixture. But here we have what we have, at least it's not much catch eye to my mind.
  2. I'm afraid i don't quite understand about what you're speaking. As i remember there are no any attachment tabs and instruction just offers the position in mm on the frame for the front wheels.
  3. Hello, Badder You're absolutely right about open hatches, and i'll take that it into consideration, when this tank will becames a part of diorama. The first idea was to build this Tiger with all open hatches, raised turret and 16t strabokran as well. And i hope to make it, when my enthusiasm to this project rise up once again.
  4. Not, it's Rye Field Model kit. Looks like you're right about left fender. It should be on the right side, and vice versa. I've only just now noticed. Thanks for the comment.
  5. Tiger I 1/35, straight out of the box, except the ropes, they are from something office copy machine. Impression from the model,... it's my first and last model from this manufacturer. Very soft plastic, a lot of pin marks even on a small detail, but nevertheless fitting are ok in general. Thank you for looking, and by the way it's my first attempt to make a tank model,... so any comments are wellcome.
  6. The main problem it's assembling canopy, where clear part and corresponding (well in the theory corresponding... ) frame have a quite different forms. All the orther, requires some sanding and a little bit usage of putty, but it doesn't matter. All you need it's right assembling order, and not that in the instruction.
  7. Hasegawa/Eduard kit straight out of the box, except additional Eduard PE set, and some correction of the few kit parts were made by hand. Thank you for the looking any comments are welcome.
  8. Replacement technology of the spokes isn't so diffcult. Instruction step by step; 1. Remove two neghboring spokes and then drilling coresponding holes in hub and rim. Diametr 0.3 mm for rim and 0.25 mm for hub in this case. 2. Installing two new spokes from wire. 3. The next two plastic spokes must be cutting and replacing in oposite side of the hub. 4. Repeat step 1-3 until all spokes will be replacing. Removing and replacing spokes by pair and in opposite direction by each other, it's a key moment for keeping hub correct position about the rim. So nothing diffcult, only a few patience are required.
  9. Yes patience are required, but it's not so difficult how it's seems, and as i thought for the first look.
  10. Gun barrels were made from steel rod, all the other almost OOB. Thanks for looking.
  11. BMW R12, Zvezda kit 1/35, straight out of the box, the only exception spokes of the wheels from steel wire 0,18 mm. And if honestly the build was just for fun Thanks for looking.
  12. tomprobert, Thank you for the interest information about interior colors. I'd also like to thank all for such kind of words.
  13. I only can say, that in all source, how you mentioned above, and in my microscale reference too, suggested the older style rear gun. Microscale decal AC72-0045.
  14. The gaps are absence there, but panel lines in this place are realy a little wide than other. In principle you are right, this detail just my fantasy on the theme, if honestly. But it's nothing in comparison with the main issue of this model. On the real aircraft, as i remember, the wayside gun turrets are not symmetrical by each other. Allow me here disagree with you, the Eduard wheels looks much more accurate than the original Revell. And as for they aren't flattened, that's just a matter of taste, IMHO of course.
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