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Fensman

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Everything posted by Fensman

  1. Total amazing detail, seen this done in bigger scales but never at 1/72 serious respect due
  2. What's your view on the wing spars are they overscale I have looked at online images and they don't seem to visible whereas they are quiet prominent on the kit which I am building soon.
  3. The best model I have seen on here this year I love how you have done the barrier mesh
  4. I like that, weathering spot on exhaust staining sweeping down perfectly and oil staining underneath too. Ilike the stand as well. The finnish is just the right amount of matt and the dark earth / Green is the right tint and contrast ( what paints did you use) As I said Really like it
  5. Just WOW Ill stick to 1/72 never would have the patience to do this level of detail
  6. HI did you use the high dynamic Range setting for your pictures. I love the weathering effects but the range of contrast is too low for a straight jpg
  7. Really Great to see Weapons done right with the same amount of effort , detail & weathering put into them as is put into the carrying aircraft ( which I love as well). Sidewinders are lovely as are the GBUs.
  8. Great Typhoon I always think they look better with bombs. Rocket armement seems to be the one most modeled. Great to see the Bombs have the correct colour bands Great Job
  9. A silver Hurricane did exist. I took this at Duxford when the Historic Aircraft Collection was undergoing a repaint in the 1990s Your interpretation of the metal and fabric looks spot on.
  10. The Video is really interesting revealing the weathering on a host of Navy aircraft. Loved the exhaust stains and matt sections on the engine cowl of the corsairs and the forward gun turret arrangement on the catalina
  11. I would use different shades of wood stain to simulate top camouflage and lighter underwing colours and dark stain for props exhaust and then varnish to a high gloss finnish
  12. Outstanding model and finish ( wish my 1/72 version was that good) of one of THE phantoms that took part in one of the greatest dogfights certainly of the vietnam war and possibly of all time between Cunnigham and Driscoll in the phantom and I think it was Maj Toon a top VNAF ace in a Migig 17 and I am certain the take home lessons are still being taught today.
  13. Great job Love the TSR 2, the kit is not the easiest to build, your looks superb
  14. Hi Currently mid build of the Trumpeter Su27b in Ukrainian Digital Camouflage. I had heard that the there were accuracy issues with the nose and Quickboost had a more accurate replacement nose cone I looked but could not find comparative images of the Kit and Quickboost Nose Cones I took the plunge and thought I would share what I found. Here are the two kit Nose Cones and the Quickboost one centre. the one on the left is for the Su27b I agree that the quickboost nose is a better shape and slightly longer. It also slightly thicker making the purchase worth while. n.b. I had sawn off about 6mm off the nose cone plug as it was going to foul the cockpit tub) This has meant that I have had to increase the diameter of the Nose by adding a shim so that the the Nose Cone fits with out having to sand it to shape ( Not a nice thing to do with resin) I hope anyone interested finds this usefull
  15. I had a similar problem with Humbrol Clear Matt but found Humbrol Clear Satin to give a much better scale matt effect. The closeness of the airbrush I think is something that may explain it, but also think Humbrol have over cooked the formula of Clear Matt. I agree that Humbrol Clear Matt does give a very heavy weathered effect (dusty or dessert environment) but that's only usefull if you know its going to do that and can plan it into your build. My solution was to polish the model with a nail buffing stick and recoat with Humbrol Clear Satin which worked ok.
  16. I did not know Ron, but I have built many of those kits in the last 50 years. I am sure Ron like me got enjoyment from every one.
  17. Hi I have just started to build the new Airfix 1/72 Me 262 and the Academy 1/72 Me 262 In common with my recent theme builds I am building the aircraft of the highest scoring pilots who flew that type. So the top three Me 262A-1a pilots were according to Aircraft of the Aces - German Jet Aces of World War Two by Hugh Morgan & John Weal were: Kurt Welter 20+ jet victories flying Me262B-1a (two seater night fighter and the subject of another build) Heinz Bar 16 jet victories The Academy kit enables you build both his Me 262A-1a Red 13 and the rocket assisted Me262C-1a V 186 which is my first choice to build Franz Schall 12 jest victories However for my second choice ( the airfix kit) I have a dilemma as I would like to build an aircraft that Adolf Galland flew as he was instrumental in the development of the Me 262 and did score 7 jet victories with JV44 that he commanded (representing the elite of the remaining experten in the last months of the war) The Academy kit includes a full set of R4M underwing air to air rockets which Adolf Galland recalls using and will be easy to add to the airfix kit The difficulty is there is so much confusion over the aircraft he actually flew ( let alone the colour scheme) He is widely credited whilst with JV44 flying White 3 although this is far from certain. The Academy kit contains markings showing his rank <- # - and the mickey mouse emblem that adorned all his aircraft. Its very believable that the pilots of JV 44 had their own aircraft markings like Heinze Barr Red 13 but in reality flew whatever was available. Does any one have any further information on the markings for Adolf Gallands Me 262 I would like to do <-#- but would be happier with a bit of confirmation. Ill put pics & comments of the builds, both kits have strengths and weakness but are not straightforward builds Thanks
  18. Really Nice build, love the displaced controls and the wheels which look just like they have been running in a dusty environment. I thought the underside of the upper the wing should be silver or possibly half white and black like the lower surface.
  19. Yes I see the rigging wires of some of the cables do curve in a bit. I hadn't thought of predrilling the holes at an angle which I think would work well Thank you
  20. As for the rigging, Airfix include a clear diagram of where each cable is to go. There are lots of tips on rigging on the internet but this is what I did. It has encouraged me to do more biplanes ( Airfix Swordfish in Toranto colours or Revel Hawker Fury ) I used 0.5mm ( but a 0.25mm might be better) drill in a pinvice to pre drill all the attachment points. For the top and lower wing this meant drilling all the way through the wing. I started with the bottom wing threading the nylon through the holes one at a time and securing them with a tiny drop of thin super glue that is sucked into hole by capillary action. When that has set I thread the nylon into the corresponding hole in the upper wing and whilst holding the thread taught apply a drop of thin super glue and keep holding the nylon thread taught until the glue has set. When you have completed the rigging excess thread is trimmed away with a very sharp blade and any remaining holes filled with a filler or thickish paint I used Humbrol No 1 primer. It then just takes a quick sand to remove excess filler and then you can paint as needed. My advice is to do one cable at a time and not to rush making carefull note where each cable is going befor comitting to glueing I found that the fit of the top wing to the struts on the lower wing was fiddly and not perfectly aligned. Rigging I seem to think strengthens the model but makes dusting impossible.
  21. Hi Squadron Leader Marmaduke Thomas St John Pattle DFC*, usually known as Pat Pattle, was a South African-born Second World War fighter pilot and flying ace of the Royal Air Force. Wikipedia His score could be as high as 51. A total of 26 of Pattle's victims were Italian; 15 were downed with Gloster Gladiators, the rest with Hawker Hurricanes.[He is considered to be the highest-scoring ace on both Gladiator and Hurricane (35 victories) I have chosen to model his Gloster Gladiator using the current Airfix 1/72 Gloster Gladiator MkI when he was based in North Africa. This is the second biplane I have rigged using nylon invisible sewing thread, which is visible at this scale. Next time I might stain the thread with dark grey felt tip. I have used xtracolor RAF Dark Earth and Tamiya XF81 Dark Green 2 for the upper surfaces and Tamiya Titanium for the upper wing undersurface and finally Tamiya White X-2 and Tamiya XF1 flat black. I used an artists oils muddy black pinwash for the panel lines and another pinwash of a light dust colour for panel lines on the black underside and to give a dusty weathered effect to the general model. I used Humbrol Clear matt originally as the final cote and this was TOO matt and left white residue so I oversprayed it in Humbrol Clear Satin which gave a much more realistic finnish Unlike peace time Gladiators the propeller was painted black with a dark earth leading edge and the exhaust collector ring was modelled on images of pegasus engines that had actually been run as the brass shows subtle changes in colour from different temperatures of exhaust gas with an aluminium coloured front and back edge. I hope you like the photos on a makeshift diorama
  22. Hi, Yes the new tamiya RAF colours were used. Although in my opinion ocean grey from other manufactures is close The Tamiya Green is the only one that captures that difficult to match green. However I find the tamiiya dark earth to be to pale. A great combination is Tamiya RAF Green and Xtracolor Dark Earth which looks really great although not relevant to this build. The comments about Martin baker and resources to manufacture are true and the tempest / Fury were great fighters. The canopy problem is tricky and comes about because the fuselage under the forward canopy is wrong. Existing pictures show the forward fuselage is built up standing proud under the forward canopy this built up area is missing from the kit. The aft (sliding part of the canopy is a little too deep. My solution was to file the aft section of the canopy and the forward section of the cockpit under the forward canopy to get a better fit. I could not make it perfect and still had gaps between the fuselage and canopy which i filled with Humbrol clear. It works sort of. I am really pleased you think I made a good job of it. The canopy as i have fitted it looks right. There is nothing I could do about the fuselage around the forward canopy. If you look at avaiible pictures and my model you will see what I mean.
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