Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Fensman

Members
  • Content Count

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Fensman

  1. Great Typhoon I always think they look better with bombs. Rocket armement seems to be the one most modeled. Great to see the Bombs have the correct colour bands Great Job
  2. A silver Hurricane did exist. I took this at Duxford when the Historic Aircraft Collection was undergoing a repaint in the 1990s Your interpretation of the metal and fabric looks spot on.
  3. The Video is really interesting revealing the weathering on a host of Navy aircraft. Loved the exhaust stains and matt sections on the engine cowl of the corsairs and the forward gun turret arrangement on the catalina
  4. I would use different shades of wood stain to simulate top camouflage and lighter underwing colours and dark stain for props exhaust and then varnish to a high gloss finnish
  5. Outstanding model and finish ( wish my 1/72 version was that good) of one of THE phantoms that took part in one of the greatest dogfights certainly of the vietnam war and possibly of all time between Cunnigham and Driscoll in the phantom and I think it was Maj Toon a top VNAF ace in a Migig 17 and I am certain the take home lessons are still being taught today.
  6. Great job Love the TSR 2, the kit is not the easiest to build, your looks superb
  7. Hi Currently mid build of the Trumpeter Su27b in Ukrainian Digital Camouflage. I had heard that the there were accuracy issues with the nose and Quickboost had a more accurate replacement nose cone I looked but could not find comparative images of the Kit and Quickboost Nose Cones I took the plunge and thought I would share what I found. Here are the two kit Nose Cones and the Quickboost one centre. the one on the left is for the Su27b I agree that the quickboost nose is a better shape and slightly longer. It also slightly thicker making the purchase worth while. n.b. I had sawn off about 6mm off the nose cone plug as it was going to foul the cockpit tub) This has meant that I have had to increase the diameter of the Nose by adding a shim so that the the Nose Cone fits with out having to sand it to shape ( Not a nice thing to do with resin) I hope anyone interested finds this usefull
  8. I had a similar problem with Humbrol Clear Matt but found Humbrol Clear Satin to give a much better scale matt effect. The closeness of the airbrush I think is something that may explain it, but also think Humbrol have over cooked the formula of Clear Matt. I agree that Humbrol Clear Matt does give a very heavy weathered effect (dusty or dessert environment) but that's only usefull if you know its going to do that and can plan it into your build. My solution was to polish the model with a nail buffing stick and recoat with Humbrol Clear Satin which worked ok.
  9. I did not know Ron, but I have built many of those kits in the last 50 years. I am sure Ron like me got enjoyment from every one.
  10. Hi I have just started to build the new Airfix 1/72 Me 262 and the Academy 1/72 Me 262 In common with my recent theme builds I am building the aircraft of the highest scoring pilots who flew that type. So the top three Me 262A-1a pilots were according to Aircraft of the Aces - German Jet Aces of World War Two by Hugh Morgan & John Weal were: Kurt Welter 20+ jet victories flying Me262B-1a (two seater night fighter and the subject of another build) Heinz Bar 16 jet victories The Academy kit enables you build both his Me 262A-1a Red 13 and the rocket assisted Me262C-1a V 186 which is my first choice to build Franz Schall 12 jest victories However for my second choice ( the airfix kit) I have a dilemma as I would like to build an aircraft that Adolf Galland flew as he was instrumental in the development of the Me 262 and did score 7 jet victories with JV44 that he commanded (representing the elite of the remaining experten in the last months of the war) The Academy kit includes a full set of R4M underwing air to air rockets which Adolf Galland recalls using and will be easy to add to the airfix kit The difficulty is there is so much confusion over the aircraft he actually flew ( let alone the colour scheme) He is widely credited whilst with JV44 flying White 3 although this is far from certain. The Academy kit contains markings showing his rank <- # - and the mickey mouse emblem that adorned all his aircraft. Its very believable that the pilots of JV 44 had their own aircraft markings like Heinze Barr Red 13 but in reality flew whatever was available. Does any one have any further information on the markings for Adolf Gallands Me 262 I would like to do <-#- but would be happier with a bit of confirmation. Ill put pics & comments of the builds, both kits have strengths and weakness but are not straightforward builds Thanks
  11. Really Nice build, love the displaced controls and the wheels which look just like they have been running in a dusty environment. I thought the underside of the upper the wing should be silver or possibly half white and black like the lower surface.
  12. Yes I see the rigging wires of some of the cables do curve in a bit. I hadn't thought of predrilling the holes at an angle which I think would work well Thank you
  13. As for the rigging, Airfix include a clear diagram of where each cable is to go. There are lots of tips on rigging on the internet but this is what I did. It has encouraged me to do more biplanes ( Airfix Swordfish in Toranto colours or Revel Hawker Fury ) I used 0.5mm ( but a 0.25mm might be better) drill in a pinvice to pre drill all the attachment points. For the top and lower wing this meant drilling all the way through the wing. I started with the bottom wing threading the nylon through the holes one at a time and securing them with a tiny drop of thin super glue that is sucked into hole by capillary action. When that has set I thread the nylon into the corresponding hole in the upper wing and whilst holding the thread taught apply a drop of thin super glue and keep holding the nylon thread taught until the glue has set. When you have completed the rigging excess thread is trimmed away with a very sharp blade and any remaining holes filled with a filler or thickish paint I used Humbrol No 1 primer. It then just takes a quick sand to remove excess filler and then you can paint as needed. My advice is to do one cable at a time and not to rush making carefull note where each cable is going befor comitting to glueing I found that the fit of the top wing to the struts on the lower wing was fiddly and not perfectly aligned. Rigging I seem to think strengthens the model but makes dusting impossible.
  14. Hi Squadron Leader Marmaduke Thomas St John Pattle DFC*, usually known as Pat Pattle, was a South African-born Second World War fighter pilot and flying ace of the Royal Air Force. Wikipedia His score could be as high as 51. A total of 26 of Pattle's victims were Italian; 15 were downed with Gloster Gladiators, the rest with Hawker Hurricanes.[He is considered to be the highest-scoring ace on both Gladiator and Hurricane (35 victories) I have chosen to model his Gloster Gladiator using the current Airfix 1/72 Gloster Gladiator MkI when he was based in North Africa. This is the second biplane I have rigged using nylon invisible sewing thread, which is visible at this scale. Next time I might stain the thread with dark grey felt tip. I have used xtracolor RAF Dark Earth and Tamiya XF81 Dark Green 2 for the upper surfaces and Tamiya Titanium for the upper wing undersurface and finally Tamiya White X-2 and Tamiya XF1 flat black. I used an artists oils muddy black pinwash for the panel lines and another pinwash of a light dust colour for panel lines on the black underside and to give a dusty weathered effect to the general model. I used Humbrol Clear matt originally as the final cote and this was TOO matt and left white residue so I oversprayed it in Humbrol Clear Satin which gave a much more realistic finnish Unlike peace time Gladiators the propeller was painted black with a dark earth leading edge and the exhaust collector ring was modelled on images of pegasus engines that had actually been run as the brass shows subtle changes in colour from different temperatures of exhaust gas with an aluminium coloured front and back edge. I hope you like the photos on a makeshift diorama
  15. Hi, Yes the new tamiya RAF colours were used. Although in my opinion ocean grey from other manufactures is close The Tamiya Green is the only one that captures that difficult to match green. However I find the tamiiya dark earth to be to pale. A great combination is Tamiya RAF Green and Xtracolor Dark Earth which looks really great although not relevant to this build. The comments about Martin baker and resources to manufacture are true and the tempest / Fury were great fighters. The canopy problem is tricky and comes about because the fuselage under the forward canopy is wrong. Existing pictures show the forward fuselage is built up standing proud under the forward canopy this built up area is missing from the kit. The aft (sliding part of the canopy is a little too deep. My solution was to file the aft section of the canopy and the forward section of the cockpit under the forward canopy to get a better fit. I could not make it perfect and still had gaps between the fuselage and canopy which i filled with Humbrol clear. It works sort of. I am really pleased you think I made a good job of it. The canopy as i have fitted it looks right. There is nothing I could do about the fuselage around the forward canopy. If you look at avaiible pictures and my model you will see what I mean.
  16. I agree given the Sea fury even got kills on Mig15s in Korea putting the MB 5 into production is not a crazy idea. One thing I notice building the kit is the wing cross section is very deep. Having just built a brace of P-51s i think the wing cross section would have been a disadvantage. The mustangs performance a combination of a great engine ( the MB5 is in the same league here) and its wing. The laminar flow wing gave the mustang great speed but by having very little drag also great range. I doubt the MB5 with its thick wings would be comparable In fact sticking with thick cross section wings impeded the performance of many of the first generation and second generation jets. The Javelin and Scimitar had plenty of power but due to thick cross section wings were at best transonic when the F100 was fully supersonic. Only with the Lightning did we get power mated to a thin wing and subsequent mach 2 performance. I did some research on air to ground weapons on the MB5 its very broad undercarriage left little outboard room for under wing armament. I considered mounting six 60lb rockets 3 under each wing or a tempest style drop tank all of which looked plausible. The only picture I could find was a technical drawing which indicated a bomb being mounted centrally in front of the ventral radiator. I am not sure how that would have effected the radiators performance. Here the deep wing would have provided great strength and lifting power in design that was designed for easy maintenance and repair all good attributes for ground attack role
  17. Here are my pictures of my recently completed Martin Baker MB5 completed in the colours of Squadron Leader JB Prendergast of 414 Squadron Royal Canadian air force Germany May 1945. I've always loved the Martin Baker MB 5 and bluntly the advent of jet aircraft at the end of World War II prevented going into service I always wondered what it would look like in Squadron colours and in Osprey aircraft of the aces number 81 Griffon Spitfire Aces there is a colour drawing number 26 on which I based the model. 414 Squadron had been assigned to the second tactical air force to perform armed reconnaissance and the red nose I thought looked really good with contra rotating propellers. I've used xtradecal roundels & ccodes. I also did a live pin wash and used clear satin varnish varnish for the first time which looked really good at this scale. Apologies for the rudimentary stand, I prefer aircraft with the undercarriage up and the somewhat rushed photographs. This was the new AZ model MB5 went together well with the exception of the canopy which was badly fitting and the propeller blades which needed considerably cleaning up at their bases. I hope you enjoy
  18. Hi It looked a little odd to me too. It looks overscale in the Gladiator but I put one a Mki Hurricane and it looked fine so it just looks out of place as we are not used to seeing biplanes with reflector gunsights.. Most online images of Gladiators had simple ring and bead sight or other types of reflector gunsight it. In this picture you can just make out the gunsight and compared to the pilot its not a small device This drawing from http://www.maquetland.com/article-phototheque/7895-gloster-gladiator-i shows the cokpits of the Mki & MK2 Gladiator
  19. Thanks for the kind comments. For the last year I've been building aircraft of the great aces like Bud Anderson, Chuck Yeager, Jonny Johnson in classic Mustangs, & MkIX Spitfire. Then started thinking about the highest scoring pilots in specific aircraft type like Hans Dortenmann top Scoring FW190D pilot. This lead to building Eric Locks Spitfire 1a (had the highest kill rate of any RAF pilot at the time of his death in 1941 and his markings were on the Battle Britains Flight Spitfire 1 two years ago. Looking for the highest scoring Hurricane Pilot lead to me Pat Pattle and my surprise at his history in Greece, Cyprus and North Africa as the top scoring Gladiator pilot. Many of these campaigns came after the Battle Britain and were often hard fought retreats and losses and so may be overlooked by many. As someone said you fight wars with weapons you have not the with the ones you would like. Really great pilots through skill, courage and leadership achieve results in aircraft that were obsolete but were all they had. So for me Pat Pattle deserves his corner on my model shelf because although he did not stem the tide of battle he had an impact in the battles he fought out of all proportion to what would be expected from a pilot of a Gladiator at that time giving me a new respect for the man and his machine.
  20. What to build is the eternal dilema and the over thinking that results from stress can carry over into over thinking what to build next. A good satisfying build is great way to counter stress by giving you control and satisfaction of the build outside of external stresses. Your choice is interesting for a minimalist build I would of have gone for a monoplane fighter by going for a Gauntlet and the complexity of a biplane build and possibly rigging as well ( a two bay biplane to boot) I think you are more resilient than you think. Best of luck with the build ( I like the Gauntlet kit must get one myself)
  21. Squadron Leader Marmaduke Thomas St John Pattle DFC*, usually known as Pat Pattle, was a South African-born Second World War fighter pilot and flying ace of the Royal Air Force. Wikipedia His score could be as high as 51. A total of 26 of Pattle's victims were Italian; 15 were downed with Gloster Gladiators, the rest with Hawker Hurricanes.[He is considered to be the highest-scoring ace on both Gladiator and Hurricane (35 victories) I have chosen to model his Gloster Galdaitaor using the current Airfix 1/72 Gloster Gladiator MkI when he was based in North Africa. The kit its self has had great reviews and is typical of the current high standard that Airfix are delivering. There are however a few areas in the kit presents omissions and challenges to the modeller The biggest omission is the lack of a gunsight in the cockpit. Pictures of the actual aircraft show a a simple frame above the instrument panel on which the gunsight was mounted. I built the frame from bent wire and stretched sprue, the gunsight is from Quickboost and is a GM2 which was the standard RAF Gunsight on Spitfire & Hurricane I and I have seen images of this sight in place on Gladiators used in N African, Greek and Cypriot campaigns. I like to include pilot figures and the Gladiator has the newest incarnation of Airfix WW2 Pilot. You can pick out the may west, goggles, and harness with buckle. Whereas earlier pilots were wearing flying jackets this one appears to be wearing the standard RAF uniform often worn in warm weather conditions. The moment you add the pilot you can basically forget about seeing most of the cockpit detail and in the case of the Airfix that detail is very good with accurate decals of the instruments and detailed control column, compass binnacle and trim wheel. Oh beware adding the pilot in my kit meant the his legs stopped the upper decking fitting properly, which meant trimming the forward cockpit bulkhead to fit. Any way hera are some pictures of the Pilot and Gunsight in situ the Gunsight frame may be a bit heavy but I am really happy with it ( oh the pilot and cockpit area is bit shiny so next step is some matt varnish). Thanks
  22. Here is my finished build of Chuck Yeager's,, Bud Anderson and John Landers P-51D Mustangs I used Airfix P-51D, F51D and Tamiya's P-51D. This was my first attempt at a pin wash using a mixture of Windsor and Newton Burnt Umber and black oil paint heavily diluted with artists white spirit. I was very pleased with the result. The silver paint was tamiya titanium sprayed on top of humbrol primer. Sealed with a couple of coats of future. The combines effect of the silver and pinwash worked well giving a lived in metal effect with a realistic patina. I deliberately wanted this effect as photos of Yeager's P 51 show it snow covered out in the open with very visible panel lines on the fuselage sides. Much has been written about Mustang wings and their preparation with fillers and polish to maximise their laminar flow properties. From the available images my conclusion is that panel lines are visible but not dramatic and I hope I have captured that look here. There is also much discussion about the true colours of Olive drab and neutral grey. For Olive drab I used Tamiya Olive Drab which seemed a good approximation to war time colour photos and its use on modern warbirds,Tamiya neutral grey seemed a bit dark and modern warbirds seemed too light so I compromised and chose Humbrol 145 as it had the right blue tint and in terms of lightness was between the tamiya colour and that of the modern warbirds, I think this worked well. Both Silver mustangs I left with a gloss finish but for OLd crow I really over did the matt varnish using too much of Humbrol Clear Matt Varnish. The result is I had to rub back the surface varnish using cotton wool buds and eventually lense cleaning tissue to get the right matt effect.. Undercarriage I usually build my models wheels up and use stands to display them in flight. Big Beautiful Doll and Glamorous Glennis are undercarriage up and I modified them to take the old fashioned airfix stands which worked well on both the tamiya and airfix kits. I chose one of the airfix kits to model with gear down as Bud Anderson famously had white wall tyres on his Mustang main and tail wheels.and the airfix kit also comes with the option of lowed flaps. Its my inexperience with modelling undercarriages but I hated both painting the white walls ( it looks awful) and the airfix kit undercarriage legs are too thin and bend too easily. I think I should have used the tamiya undercarriage parts. Painting the wheel wells was another source of confusion, with debate about where zinc chromate yellow, interior green and silver was painted. As its agreed that no mustang kit accurately portrays the wheel wells and main spar I decided to paint the rear spar zinc chromate and the rest silver. the cockpit was interior green and I chose to put pilots in so you really cannot see nay thing else inside. General Build Comments Both the Tamiya and airfix kits are very similar in construction and build. I like the airfix kit because of the choice of flaps and I like the Tamiya because the canopy is a much better fit. They both offer a choice of dallas or conventional canopy but the front canopy component is just too thick to seat properly with out being thined down and polished to fit fit properly. Both kits have the canopy separate from the sliding framing for the rear canopy part. I think this is mistake and would prefer both the framing and canopy to be one transparent piece where the framing can just be painted. The current set up makes it hard to eliminate the a silvered join between the canopy and the frame. The canopy and how the they are painted is a key element in capturing the look of a mustang. they should be close fitting and painted carefully to pick out the natural metal framing near the olive drab anti glare panels. Overall the tamiya builds more easily and the surface finish is just that bit more detailed with beautifully refined rivet detail ( i don't count rivets) on the flaps ( visible in modern warbird Mustangs Decals I mainly used the tamiya decals which had the markings for all three aircraft leaving me to source a few extra stars and bars and to paint the red fuel filler caps. The invasion stripes and the chequed nose of Big beautiful doll are all decals. They needed copious amounts of microsol but softened well moulding to the complex shapes around the ventral radiation housing and the nose of big beautiful doll. The white lettering on Old crow was really nice appearing solid and painted on, very impressive stuff. Drop tanks The smaller drop tanks in the airfix kits are unuseable as they do not have the prominent seam that runs around the join of the tanks two halves so I used the tamiya ones which look the part. Yeager and Anderson's aircraft are both shown with 103 gallon paper drop tanks. I sourced these from an old revel P51B and academy p-47D ( which look too big in my opinion) I took the decision to paint both silver as this was the colour of the dope used in the final layers in their construction in real life.. I love mustangs and I am pleased generally with the look of them but feel I let my self down with the canopies ( aftermarket probably better) and the wheels ( never going to do wheels down if I can help it, ( yes should have masked them off better) I hope you like them. Pictures The view from above From the side Big Beautiful Doll Glamorous Glennis Old Crow Thank You
  23. So far on the builds I have these observations Both Tamiya and airfix kits are very very similar however the canopy on the airfix kits are a little too thick which makes the fit of the forward windscreen difficult ( i had to fill around the bottom the front windscreen) The Tamiya kits canopy was a faultless fit. The dihedral on the Tamiya was again faultless, Its been said before it just fell together. The fuselage wing join on the airfix kit was so tight that the there was no dihedral at all making the mustang just look wrong. This was fixed with careful sanding of the wing roots and fuselage sides to allow the wings to join the fuselage with the correct dihedral. Using maskol on the canopies next up a coat of primer then on to painting proper
×
×
  • Create New...