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Davetur

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Everything posted by Davetur

  1. Weathering aside, the natural metal is extremely good! Cold-war Russian aircraft NMF is not easy at all, because it's generally not too shiny but not even too dull, and you have got the right balance. Davide
  2. Really Amazing. It reminds me of when I was a young student (circa 1981) and visited the Cameri Air Force Base with the school. A 104 was there in the hangar, semi disassembled, and it had a big dent into the leading edge. The pilot had been flying, well, a bit too low... and hit some trees! Bel lavoro! Are you going to bring it to the modeling contest in Volandia next 16-17 June? Link Davide
  3. Absolutely outstanding. I have always liked the Bulgarian camo colors, and yours are spot on. Congratulations! Davide
  4. Absolutely amazing - the first picture in particular is not different from the real thing! Cheers Davide
  5. The kit instructions say "Lightning Training Flight (LTF) RAF Alconbury 1987" But there is also a photo that locates XV328 in Binbrook in 1985. Airliners.net XV328 has carried either a natural metal belly tank (the one in the Airliners picture) or a grey painted one, I choose the latter. Just to avoid masking, spraying... I'm a lazy guy, I know. Davide
  6. Thank you all for the nice words, guys! The Sword kit was the second short run I've built (the first a Amodel Yak-28) but honestly I didn't find it so difficult to build. It takes a bit of patience to align everything properly (but I am a veeeery slow builder). In some areas it has even finer detail then the Airfix kit, with which it surely shares the mold lines of the fuselage. The only areas that needed a bit more of attention were the cockpit, in order to position it correctly, and the wings, since the attachment tabs are very short. In order not to have surprises later, I drilled holes in the wings, and put two sections of steel paper clips (the big ones) in them, so that they would be joined through the fuselage. This also allows to adjust the wing dihedral before commiting to glue. Cheers Davide
  7. I have always had a soft spot for the Lightning, built my first from Frog-Hasegawa when I was a teenager. Not really a beautiful aircraft, but it transmits a sense of brute force... very much like a MiG-25 or an A-10. Then the Trumpeter kit came, and I decided to build it. Then the Airfix kit came, and being more accurate in shape, I decided to build it. Then the Sword trainer came, and... why not? So here they are. The Trumpeter F.6. With Aires cockpit, Aires corrected exhausts, Xtradecal decals and Master pitot. The Airfix F.6, OOP except Xtradecal decals, Master pitot and scratchbuilt cannon muzzle brakes. From a 1.25 mm steel tube with cuts made with a cutting wheel. The Sword T.5, OOB except the Master pitot, and the fin decal. The original was totally out of scale, so I used the one of the Airfix kit. The resin seats and colored photoetched parts are from the box. I couldn't get access to the forum for 1 day, so now finally I've been able to post pictures from Imgur.
  8. Never used the AK Metal myself, but I have just seen an article on the SkyModel Italian magazine, of a guy who used the AK for the exaust tail section of a MiG-21. He used Tamiya X-1 as a primer, thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner (Yellow Cap), with 2 shades of AK, Aluminium and Dark Aluminium, and the results appear more "polished" than yours. Of course judging from a photo on a magazine. But the Aluminium 479 used this way looks quite close to the Lightning in the photos above. Perhaps you could try that. Davide
  9. Really excellent stuff! I bought a Rob-Taurus vacu canopy for my Hasegawa F-14 and it's perfect, crystal clear despite being a little bit thick. Only advice, you have to be very patient separating it from its "frame". I ruined one because I was not careful enough. my mistake. Davide
  10. Thank you Gekko, based on my experience with black under white I was going to reach the same conclusion, that black could be used as an overall primer, but you came up with a very sound reason for it. Well, I'll stick to good old Humbrol 33 for now, and will try other brands in the meantime. Cheers Davide
  11. Hi Gekko, any particular reason to use Stynylrez black as primer? Is that what you normally use? I use flat black enamel to prime small parts to be painted white, such as landing gears, wheel hubs, doors and wheel wells, because it gives a natural depth to bolts, frames and raised features in general, like a pre-shading for panel lines. Never thought of using black over plain surfaces. By the way, I am interested to the Mig paints for the Su-33 and will definitely go for them, instead of finding a new source/shop just to buy the Akan paints. Thank you for your test! Davide
  12. Davetur

    1/72 Tornado GR4

    Apart from some weak panel lines on the rear fuselage sides, I found the Hasegawa kit not too bad, and with good shapes. I built it for a friend a long time ago: Italian Desert Storm Tornado Still, judging from Todd's build, the Revell kit is probably better. And cheaper. Davide
  13. Veeeeery nice and very convincing! With restrained and realistic weathering. Davide
  14. Exactly the effect I had in mind! Very realistic, especially the first one. Cheers Davide
  15. "....think I went slightly overboard ..." Well. I surely don't know this particular bird, but having in mind a few pictures of Indian MiG-21s, I'd say you've surely caught "the flavour"! Very, very nice model overall. I have a particular thing about model pictures: I think that if you could take some at "man's eye" height, it would look even more convincing. in pratical terms, it means taking pictures with the camera sitting on the same table where the model is, so that the center of the lens is basically at the same height of a 1/72 scale man's eyes. Almost as the last picture, but lower, if possible. Can you try? Cheers Davide
  16. Hi Redboost, however I think the colour match on your model is one of the best I've seen, compared to a few Su-33 kits on the internet. For this specific bort number, the colours don't seem to different if you compare to other photographs like these on Airliners.net: Bort 80 Red 1 Bort 80 Red 2 Bort 80 Red 3 Bort 80 Red 4 Of course it all depends on the lighting conditions of the real Aircraft etc., but your choice seems not too far. And, as you say, colours are very much subject to weathering, so two photos of the same aircraft may look very different after 2 years So, since I'm building the Hasegawa Su-33, I'm very intersted in knowing the Gunze colours (or mixtures) you have used. From the Trump instructions the main camo colours are identified as H67, H323 and H56, did you modify them? Cheers Davide
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