Jump to content

Schwarz-Brot

3D Members
  • Posts

    695
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Schwarz-Brot

  1. C, isn't there a way to reach into the wells with snips and cut two more coils piece by piece? Or would you need to cut the tube as well?

     

    Overall I like your presentation of the countach. It indeed is a very characteristic shape, carefully designed and well proportioned. Especially the first picture in this thread shows that very well. With the usual shots the overall form often looks with overly pronounced edges. Indeed there are some well placed curves in the contour.

     

    Keep on building. We like your models.

  2. Without having a workplace at the moment - not even a kitchen table - I am envious for your space. This lets me look forward to when I'll be able to get back to modelling.

     

    Good to see you around again and returning to the big Pocher. I will still follow. Thank you for showing - keep the pictures coming 🙂

  3. Almost all fillers that work with plastic work with resin, too. For Glueing a slow curing Superglue with baking soda works well. This also works nicely for filling. 2K-Glues also work well.

     

    You are probably aware you need to clean resin parts to get rid of release agents from the casting process.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  4. 18 hours ago, hendie said:

    They have since updated the Mars from the version I purchased though it's mainly cosmetic upgrades but it does make it a little more user friendly.  For example, the USB port on mine is at the back, and now it's on the front and easily accessible.

    This I cannot confirm. When I investigated this seemed to be on the pro version. Pro is coming out in the very near future. The models shipped now do have the USB on the back. I watched a review of the pro an decided the updates were not worth the wait, so bought the standard version.

     

    • Like 1
  5. And its up and printing its first demo-print. Came even with free xuron snips! woohoo. All in all I'm pretty impressed with the quality.

     

    Heads up to those getting one of these: cover the printing-display and clean the z-spindle thorougly. WD40 might work. I used KONTAKT WL, a light electronics cleaner. The spindle has a sticky anti-corrosion medium all over.

    Then give it some light lubricant, I used WD40. When this dries up I'll get some proper oil. Without doing this cleanup you risk bad prints or even damage to the z-axis. Mine was barely able to move and sounded pretty bad. You could see it struggle while the steppingmotor lost steps. After the procedure it moves smooth and with barely a sound.

     

    You need to get Isoprop to clean and Resin for your first print. Everything else is in the box. Again - very impressed.

    • Like 2
  6. With such fine work I highly recommend investing in really good tweezers with a firm but very fine tip. Forget china stuff and forget cheap stuff. Go somewhere where you can see the tip an give it a try. I think this would be in the 20€ / 15Pound segment. I usually get mine at trade fairs, so testing is no problem. Alternatively you can try medical and electronics suppliers. Especially tweezers for SMD electronics work are very fine but come at a price.

     

    If you cheap out you'll pay double. Or more if you don't learn.

     

  7. Hendie, I just wanted to let you know you are to blame! Thanks to this thread I am sold on a Resin-printer. I always put off buying one because I told myself resolution wouldn't be fine enough. Told myself I wouldn't want to go through those cleaning sessions. Told myself these things would cost big money.

     

    Turns out all my arguments were wrong.

     

    Ordered, but no delivery note yet. Amazon isn't going to be fast these days.

     

    Congrats on getting through with the decals. Looking great.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1
×
×
  • Create New...