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Posts posted by Schwarz-Brot
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That would be the ancient "bone folder", commonly used in bookbinding. Look at bookbinding suppliers if you need one. Very useful tool for any kind of folding and creasing of weak materials. Cheap.
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Could you maybe drill and insert some pegs temporarily to route the lines, then remove the pegs again and install the perfectly shaped copper? That's what I'd try, as I know any detail I'd add there before having the right shape would be destroyed by me not being careful enough.
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yes.
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Could you share the link, please? Looks like fun!
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Thanks for your opinion on the quality.
I know resin kits are usually a lot of work and not for the average OOB builder. But I love the opportunities they give us as they cover topics no strictly commercial company could reasonably tackle. Seeing resin models being built to a high standard, I constantly have to stop myself from filling up my stash. Then again I remind me I don't even have time and place for a simple OOB-build these days. Every piece of modelling equipment is packed up in boxes. Even if I had the room to unpack some of it I couldn't justify spending time and money on doing so right now. Meeh.
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Happy birthday, happy bunny! Finally a booth with decent lighting
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Is it just me, or did the Bluebird look better right from the start? The Auto Union is also looking better to me, from a quality perspective. Though its grille is a bit too unevenly spaced for my liking.
This one needs the Jörgen-treatment to become a really good model. But as I see you're on your way already. Keep pushing!
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One of the more beautiful BMWs of modern times. I like the hommage to the 507. You did a good job on that model. It looks nicely lowered and the wheels are a perfect choice. The paintwork is nice and shiny. I like it.
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Very good start and mighty clean paintwork. I love it! Great attention to detail in the cockpit. While it will be hidden it is great to see all the different materials come together. I tend to spend way too much time in doing that, but it's good to know it is there, even it it won't be seen later.
You might try scanning the remaining decals and reprinting them on decal paper? I always scan the instructions and decals before I start any work in case something goes wrong.
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There you go. I don't know too much about the 917. But that won't stop me following your thread and throwing in my opinion from time to time.
I mentioned it on the other thread - the wiper is much too thick for my liking. I think you should do something about that. Maybe there's an aftermarket piece to get, or maybe you can even scratch it. From the engine picture above I'd say it is possible.
Happy building!
Jan
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I'm glad you take it as constructive criticism, that's how it's meant. I know such harsh opinions are rarely posted, and usually I wouldn't state them. On the other hand it is exactly the kind of comment I hope for on my own builds to push me further.
The pictures with your hand really put everything into scale and the cleanup worked out nicely. Good job!
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Nigel, look into "riffler" files, also available from Vallorbe. Only recently I learned about these from a watchmaker. I know the problems with white metal miniatures as well. Looks like these riffler thingies are like double-headed sculpting tools with teeth instead. Different designs are available. I might need to get me some.
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While your first print is running, order some additional FEP film. You'll probably ruin the first quite soon and waiting for the new to arrive really isn't cool.
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Good start there.
You'll love the Elegoo Mars. The Pro isn't really differently specced than the older version. It wasn't available a few weeks ago, when I ordered mine, so I went for the standard version after I compared the specs carefully, as I decided the updates were not worth the wait. Didn't regret it.
Before you start printing, rub down the spindle with some Alcohol and oil it - it is hard to turn and may give you printing errors. If it spins easily, you'll hear a huge difference when moving the printing plate up and down.
You'll not want to place this printer anywhere where you must avoid making a mess. Best would be a glass worktop or something else that is easily cleaned. It gets really messy with the resin - while at least the white elegoo resin doesn't stink too much.
You really don't need a mask to work with fluid resin. You need it, when you rework the parts, as the dust is the dangerous stuff!
You need lots of Isoprop Alcohol to clean anything you touch, your printer and your prints. I get me 5-Liter packages from ebay. 95% is good enough.
You need lots of nitrile gloves. Don't use latex, resin diffuses through it.
Get yourself photon file validator to avoid islands. Search Youtube for the workflow.
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I use my old builds to experiment on with weathering, I stole some parts every now - especially wheels. I missuse them as paint mule or as test dummies before going ahead with a new technique on an ongoing build. Usually they don't end up on the shelf for too long. I used some to practice polishing (need to practice more!) and how to get rid of different paints.
I have a box with knocked models in it just for these purposes.
A few I have even sold, but there's no money to be made with that. Usually it wouldn't even cover the kit cost, so I don't really bother trying that.
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@CrazyCrank Some of the pictures in your last post don't show correctly here. Usually not a problem with your posts, so probably there's something gone wrong.
I like your engine work quite a lot, but honestly, I'm not too fond of that firewall wiring loom. I know you can paint better than that. And I know bright colours over black are horrible. Please, if this will be highly visible later, consider a retouch. This occured to me the last time, I saw it, but I was in a hurry and forgot later to put my thoughts down. Now seeing it again it bothered me again. I'd probably try to give the wires some depth with an ink or panel lining and touch up the borders to the firewall to hide the overpainting. It wouldn't even need more even coverage on the lines, if there would be clean borders and some contrast.
On the other hand - if its mostly hidden, don't waste your time on that.
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2 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:
Stay tuned if you like, and thanks for watching
How could anyone not like this?!
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11 hours ago, Tentacles said:
I've never heard of these before. I guess they could be used to create paint chipping effects also?
These are listed on e-bay as "fibre glass eraser pen"
Thanks for the translation. Yeah, they work for a surprising lot of tasks. They are widely used by artists as eraser for all kinds of medium. I got to know them for electronics rework and also put them to good use in the restauration of classic HiFi gear. In modelling I use them to distress paintwork, for all kind of effects work like described in this topic, they can be used for chipping, for controlled erasing of paint on glueing surfaces, for roughing up of surfaces to allow better grip when working with filler. I'm sure there's more ways to use them.
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9 hours ago, Homerlovesbeer said:
Good idea but there is no way on earth you could fit it down the dial and reach the face.
Yes you can! The tip is not bigger than a cotton bud, but quite flat. The fibre bundle is usually retracted into the pen. It can be turned out as far as needed. Just need to be careful because the fibres are fragile and thin. You don't see them, but you feel them, when they get into your skin.
Another idea I've seen used here and there, but you only have one shot, so better practice with some plasticard or spare parts.
- Print the dial in the right size on paper.
- drill out the dashboard carefully. If you feel adventurous thin it carefully as far as you dare.
- back up the hole with the paper from behind, so you see the printed dial through the hole in the dashboard.
- fill the hole with micro-cristal-klear or similar - even PVA might work. This should help hiding the too deep hole and additionally gives a nice glass effect.
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Another idea, building upon @goggsy - a strong white primer, than weak black paint and ever so slightly scrubbing with a glassfibre rubber pen - don't know the english word, sorry. This should allow you to go back to the white in a very controlled way.
This is what I think of.
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Paint in white (or whatever) and fill the recesses with black ink? Like a shortcut on the BMF idea. Painting the recesses with a very fine tipped marker might be possible as well instead of ink.
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On 5/7/2020 at 9:28 PM, Lee Chambers said:
Very Interesting,as regards the new R18 i would have to see one in the flesh so to speak,but i think the engine looks too cartoonish to be in a real motorcycle.
It's an interesting beast. Probably nothing I'd like to have, but a headturner for sure. They'll pop up on our streets pretty soon, I guess.
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I'm pretty sure most of the design and development still takes place in Munich. Probably even most prototyping. We only come into play when the first pre-production models are made on actual production equipment. Meaning processes and design-choices get sorted and streamlined. This is when things get serious in Berlin.
We build among others automated robot-welding and marking machines for their production and pre-production environment. Usually we get the cryptic internal model numbers and a few CAD pieces. Googling won't find you nothing when we start work. About a year later the first pictures might turn up when googling. Often you don't even know what the parts are for, that are produced on these machines. Another two years later these pre-production machines get ordered again - now outfitted for a full production environment. Turns out production code K67 equals the recent S1000RR. It is not us, who weld the frames. But without us, they wouldn't be welding any - so still a very great feeling.
Pocher beginner building a Roll Royce
in Work In Progress - Vehicles
Posted
Obviously an engineer! I like your approach to problem solving. Great start so far.
Codger is probably right about not messing with stuff you'll never ever want to be used. But being an engineer myself I do absolutely understand the desire to make things work.
Alongside his advice I'd like to add the following: Keep an eye on your painting and leave no bare kit plastic to be seen. The uninitiated won't notice wheels that sit wrong as long as both sides are symmetrical. But even my grandma spots a sloppy paintjob from a distance and knows it's wrong. The other way around - a superb paintjob blows your mind and distracts from rather big inacurracies.