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Everything posted by Schwarz-Brot

  1. Nigel, look into "riffler" files, also available from Vallorbe. Only recently I learned about these from a watchmaker. I know the problems with white metal miniatures as well. Looks like these riffler thingies are like double-headed sculpting tools with teeth instead. Different designs are available. I might need to get me some.
  2. While your first print is running, order some additional FEP film. You'll probably ruin the first quite soon and waiting for the new to arrive really isn't cool.
  3. Good start there. You'll love the Elegoo Mars. The Pro isn't really differently specced than the older version. It wasn't available a few weeks ago, when I ordered mine, so I went for the standard version after I compared the specs carefully, as I decided the updates were not worth the wait. Didn't regret it. Before you start printing, rub down the spindle with some Alcohol and oil it - it is hard to turn and may give you printing errors. If it spins easily, you'll hear a huge difference when moving the printing plate up and down. You'll not want to place this printer anywhere where you must avoid making a mess. Best would be a glass worktop or something else that is easily cleaned. It gets really messy with the resin - while at least the white elegoo resin doesn't stink too much. You really don't need a mask to work with fluid resin. You need it, when you rework the parts, as the dust is the dangerous stuff! You need lots of Isoprop Alcohol to clean anything you touch, your printer and your prints. I get me 5-Liter packages from ebay. 95% is good enough. You need lots of nitrile gloves. Don't use latex, resin diffuses through it. Get yourself photon file validator to avoid islands. Search Youtube for the workflow.
  4. I use my old builds to experiment on with weathering, I stole some parts every now - especially wheels. I missuse them as paint mule or as test dummies before going ahead with a new technique on an ongoing build. Usually they don't end up on the shelf for too long. I used some to practice polishing (need to practice more!) and how to get rid of different paints. I have a box with knocked models in it just for these purposes. A few I have even sold, but there's no money to be made with that. Usually it wouldn't even cover the kit cost, so I don't really bother trying that.
  5. @CrazyCrank Some of the pictures in your last post don't show correctly here. Usually not a problem with your posts, so probably there's something gone wrong. I like your engine work quite a lot, but honestly, I'm not too fond of that firewall wiring loom. I know you can paint better than that. And I know bright colours over black are horrible. Please, if this will be highly visible later, consider a retouch. This occured to me the last time, I saw it, but I was in a hurry and forgot later to put my thoughts down. Now seeing it again it bothered me again. I'd probably try to give the wires some depth with an ink or panel lining and touch up the borders to the firewall to hide the overpainting. It wouldn't even need more even coverage on the lines, if there would be clean borders and some contrast. On the other hand - if its mostly hidden, don't waste your time on that.
  6. Thanks for the translation. Yeah, they work for a surprising lot of tasks. They are widely used by artists as eraser for all kinds of medium. I got to know them for electronics rework and also put them to good use in the restauration of classic HiFi gear. In modelling I use them to distress paintwork, for all kind of effects work like described in this topic, they can be used for chipping, for controlled erasing of paint on glueing surfaces, for roughing up of surfaces to allow better grip when working with filler. I'm sure there's more ways to use them.
  7. Yes you can! The tip is not bigger than a cotton bud, but quite flat. The fibre bundle is usually retracted into the pen. It can be turned out as far as needed. Just need to be careful because the fibres are fragile and thin. You don't see them, but you feel them, when they get into your skin. Another idea I've seen used here and there, but you only have one shot, so better practice with some plasticard or spare parts. - Print the dial in the right size on paper. - drill out the dashboard carefully. If you feel adventurous thin it carefully as far as you dare. - back up the hole with the paper from behind, so you see the printed dial through the hole in the dashboard. - fill the hole with micro-cristal-klear or similar - even PVA might work. This should help hiding the too deep hole and additionally gives a nice glass effect.
  8. Another idea, building upon @goggsy - a strong white primer, than weak black paint and ever so slightly scrubbing with a glassfibre rubber pen - don't know the english word, sorry. This should allow you to go back to the white in a very controlled way. This is what I think of.
  9. Paint in white (or whatever) and fill the recesses with black ink? Like a shortcut on the BMF idea. Painting the recesses with a very fine tipped marker might be possible as well instead of ink.
  10. It's an interesting beast. Probably nothing I'd like to have, but a headturner for sure. They'll pop up on our streets pretty soon, I guess.
  11. I'm pretty sure most of the design and development still takes place in Munich. Probably even most prototyping. We only come into play when the first pre-production models are made on actual production equipment. Meaning processes and design-choices get sorted and streamlined. This is when things get serious in Berlin. We build among others automated robot-welding and marking machines for their production and pre-production environment. Usually we get the cryptic internal model numbers and a few CAD pieces. Googling won't find you nothing when we start work. About a year later the first pictures might turn up when googling. Often you don't even know what the parts are for, that are produced on these machines. Another two years later these pre-production machines get ordered again - now outfitted for a full production environment. Turns out production code K67 equals the recent S1000RR. It is not us, who weld the frames. But without us, they wouldn't be welding any - so still a very great feeling.
  12. Funny enough the Motorcycle Plant is in Berlin, not Bavaria. Since I'm occasionally there I know the folks working there are super passionate about their products. Well knowing they are more expensive then the rest, they put lots of enthusiasm into the design and into perfecting many nuances nobody will ever even recognize. In the end it adds to the feel of quality one gets. Yes, I sound like a fanboy - still I wouldn't consider riding most BMW motorcycles. Trivia aside - your model is beautiful. The fadeout green, the metallic, the pinstriping - just beautiful. I wouldn't mind cruising some lonely streets with this one. Including the ugly but handy plastic boxes.
  13. I'd like to see some WIP topics. The final pieces are outstanding models, but there are only a few hints how you got there. It would be most interesting to see how you build one of your models from start to finish. Probably much to learn in there for all of us.
  14. Great start already. I'm sure I'll find some good ideas to add to the scratchbuilding repertoire along the way.
  15. Nova and Impala are not for me. Camaro is such a classic shape, nothing wrong with that, though I don't think I'd want to drive one. Pontiac GTO - yes please! Mainly for the vertical headlight arrangement combined with the slight sharknose. I do appreciate the classic lines of many american cars. But I wouldn't want to drive most of them. Then again I love the rumble of a V8. If I had to choose an american oldtimer it would be a huuuge station wagon. The only type of car where size really matters
  16. It's beyond me how he would even hold his head up high with this helmet and how he managed to stay that clean dressed in all white (and warm all padded in metal!). Nice presentation, I'd like to see some more pictures.
  17. The information you give is very valuable, so yeah - I like your presentation. I don't think you need to specify every single streak and chip in all detail. This gets repetitive very fast. A general explanation of how to do a streak and blend it in and a list of materials that you used for that would be enough. Same goes for chipping. Maybe a explanation why specific colours / methods were used to take the reader into your path of thinking. If you want to go into fine details just list the colours used for a single element in the pictures, making them simpler to use as reference for specific effects. HTH
  18. Coin cells like they're used for hearing aids are the smallest I know about. Edit: Size 10 would be the smallest of these: 1,4 Volt / 70 mAh / 0,10 Wh ø5,8 mm x 3,55 mm Typical names: ZA10, 10A, 10AP, 10DS, 10HP, 10HPX, 10SA, 10UP, 230AP, A10, AC10, AC10EZ, AC230E, B0104, CP35, DA10, DA10N, DA230, HA10, L10ZA, ME10Z, P10, PR10H, PR230H, PR536, R10ZA, S10A, V10AT, W10ZA, ZL4 Information taken and translated from a german website.
  19. I'm looking forward to your WIP. Modified diecasts don't pop up too often around here, which is a shame.
  20. Love the NA. I'm so into pop-up lights! Your Bluebird looks quite flawless and nicely detailed from just a few resin parts to begin with. Great job!
  21. The underside is quite simple, but then again will probably rarely be shown by die-cast collectors. So this is to be expected. My only real points would be the wiper and the paint finish. - The wiper looks out of scale and toy like as with most kits. - The paint is quite thick as with most die casts. The panel lines are too wide to allow even coverage of the paint and look blurry therefore. I'd probably try a pinwash to make them look more crisp. Else I think this is a nice piece right out of the box. Edit: A little weathering probably wouldn't hurt.
  22. Not sure he's still with us. Probably too much kind advice
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