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Schwarz-Brot

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Posts posted by Schwarz-Brot

  1. Hi there,

    I frequently used scalemodeldb.com/paint, I guess many of you know it. For those who don't: It allowed to pick colours from a picture or give colours to the database and would return exact colourvalues in several ways (html, cmyk, ...) and closest fits from a range of manufacturers.

    I heard this database was abandoned for quite a while, but still online and working. Finally it seems to be off. At least I cannot reach it anymore since a few weeks. Do you know an alternative? Is there anybody here in contact with the owner? Maybe this helpful tool could be obtained for and integrated into another site (britmodeller for example ;-) )? Is there someone around who could build such a system? I think britmodeller is big enough and has enough impact to even get the input of some manufacturers?

     

    I am not able to program and maintain such a program, but would be willing to help with filling the database, contact manufacturers, make coffee, whatever helps.

     

    What do you guys think?

  2. This is a typical Shenzen Item. Expect it to be as cheaply built as can be. Not necessarily wobbly, but for sure out of alignment and difficult to handle. Making china-machines good working solutions is usually a huge project in itself. Do not expect them to work out of box. If you do have some metal workshop experience and electrical experience it could be handled. If you don't I would suggest to stay away.

    I do not see any way to change speed. This is a problem, as you need to adapt the cutting speed to material and tool to get good quality surfaces.

    The handwheels need to be exchanged. They screem rubbish even in the pictures.

    The belt needs a housing for safety reasons. A finger in that belt and its gone. The finger, not the belt.

     

    Don't expect highest accuracy, even after tuning. I wouldn't work aluminum with this, the structure isn't strong enough to do so. With wood and plastics you shouldn't see problems, but still, this is not a quality tool. You might get the accuracy down to some 1/10mm, but probably not better. Should be enough for modeling though.

     

    Consider putting at least about 3 to 4 times the price into making it workable. If you know what you are doing. But if you did, you probably wouldn't ask. So I would recommend a little Proxxon milling machine, maybe the MF 70. These are extremely small, but on the budget you get a precision tool compared to this china one. What's more important: They work out of box and are good to handle with the possibility of getting spare parts. The working area might be very small, take care of that.

    • Like 1
  3. 30 minutes ago, kpnuts said:

    Well, Vince never say never, when I did the original gsx I built the CB 750 in the same wip and I think I said there i had 2 dio ideas and one of those was a garage with those two doing doughnuts and other bikes parked round watching, so you never know it may happen.

    Would love to see that!

    • Like 1
  4. 3 hours ago, Beefy said:

    Must admit didn't see that one coming. Will be interesting to see who get his seat at Mercedes. Could be a very interesting season next year.

     

    It's still going to be boring to death, whatever will happen. A shame no other motorsport gets that much of coverage in media.

    I would be surprised if we don't see Rosberg in other racing series in the future.

  5. Any graphics- and photo program can resize it. Some .pdf-printdrivers allow it as well, if that's the format you have. I would go with gimp, as it is free and my tool of choice, but may be overkill if you are not used to it.

     

    Mark the plans with a known reference before scanning, for example an exact 1x1cm square. This helps while scaling, as you often don't know what going on. Programs work in px, mm, inch, percent - some can do all of this. Knowing a reference helps in predicting what happens when turning the screws.

    • Like 1
  6. Did you stretch the wire before trying to put it into its shape? Don't know how much this would help with a wire that thin. But in general with stretching the material gets a bit more stiff besides just staying straight.

     

    On the other side - sizes this small are not easily to tell apart if not seen in direct comparison - the human brain is not used to it. So I don't see a reason why you shouldn't use 0.5mm wire.

     

    If you want to stick with the right size, it might help to form the wire around a jig, heat to glowing and let cool down in its new form. Don't know if that works for copper, but I would give it a try. Then you wouldn't need to bend the wire mid-air.

     

    This might work as well with nylon-yarn and the likes.

     

    Jan

  7. Yesterday this stuff arrived:

    8U5fkJ.jpg

    Carbon and Kevlar decals for my WRC2001 Impreza project. PE-Saws I was missing when working on the body...

     

    Some more stuff today:

    d1tMXk.jpg

     

    The kit was dirt cheap, had to take it. Looks like a dirt simple curbside. The white box contains all 9 Micro-Mesh grades in Pad form, 3 file sticks, polishing medium and polishing clothe. No more poor paintjobs! Subaru World Rally Blue (02C) by Zero Paints for my WRC2001 Impreza project. Well, hopefully.

     

    Only some gorilla glue and cyanoacrylate glue missing now.
     

    • Like 1
  8. Ashley, I have no idea about the tamiya colours, sorry. I wouldn't start yet another paint range as I have my ultra high quality Schmincke Aeros. The whole range! And the whole Vallejo Game Color range as well. I am pretty much an acrylics fan and would stick with these. Only thing I am going to add is specialist colours like colourmatched zero paints or Alclad chrome and their respective thinners, cleaners and stuff.

    I found that thread as well and already bookmarked it ;)

     

    Shaun, thank you for the heads up! I would have shot some testpieces, as I never before worked with zero paints. Hard to find around here and not what I'd usually use. Good to get some informed input!

  9. Yeah, I knew the truck wasn't the same. But I don't really care in this case. The model has so many inaccuracies, one might as well take any random truck and paint some subaru markings on there. I build it OOB and will chose a colour a unrelated observer would believe. Choosing the same colour for car and truck bonds it together and is somehow expected these days. Changing the colour might be more realistic, but is pointless regarding realism with so many flaws in the model.

     

    We'll see. It is not decided yet.

  10. I ordered Zero Colours 02c for the Impreza which should be the Rally colour from 2001 onwards. This should last me a while, so the truck may get it as well. Or Vallejo Model Air Arctic Blue (041) over white. Or a mixed up blue without metallic effect. I might very well pick out a RAL colour for the truck and mix it up with Schmincke Colours (They have a RAL mixing table). I'll do some spoon-testing when my order arrives AND I find a free hour.

     

    Greetings,

    Jan

  11. Great build, though I am not a fan of these spikes on the front. The rest is outstanding and hits all the right spots. Reminds me of my own workhorse. A hole in the seat, dirty and rocked down, but always in perfect working condition. That's just like my Transalp. I'd ride it!

  12. Don't you worry, I wasn't lazy. But time is a luxury good this season. While the Impreza is a bit on hold because I waited for some stuff I couldn't resist to start the Truck. This is the quality I know from old Revell kits with large moldlines, sinking holes and generally not the best fitting parts. Still I enjoy the build and kind of rushed through the first steps. No colour yet, though. Will have to paint some parts pretty soon. Not sure if I should open a new topic or not for this one. This is not chaos nor madness. This is creativity ;)

     

    KUEcar.jpg

     

    Some parts for the Impreza arrived in the meantime from Hiroboy. Pretty expensive shipping when ordering from germany, so I had to keep it small. Carbon and Kevlar decals and PE saws. Wish I had these when I cut out the air-inlets. Which I did with a very fine blade of a coping saw, cut to size and spanned into one of my drilling grips. But this was too wobbly and a pain to use. I managed to get the cutouts, no pictures yet, though. The impreza is in its box, no intention of mixing up truck and car parts...

     

    8U5fkJ.jpg

     

    @MetroRacing Ashley, I am not sure about the Renaissance stuff. Seems to be too expensive while pretty easy to diy. Detailling a possible diorama is far in the future. Working on my master thesis these days and switching jobs keeps me very busy. Christmas season and family don't help much. Take this as a excuse for not answering sooner. Simply forgot to do so.

    • Like 1
  13. I use a cheapy airbrush for priming, so that's ok. Never had much luck with rattle cans. Tend to get buildup at the nozzle which then gets thrown on my stuff. Though I have to admit I only ever did really large stuff when that happened. Those brands are not available around here, but now I know what to look for. Will give it a try at some point.

     

    Thank you, also for providing the links. This is helpful.

     

    Btw - looks like you missed some mouldline on the front bumper under the right headlight. Guess you saw that already.

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