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Schwarz-Brot

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Posts posted by Schwarz-Brot

  1. Great posts regarding rather complex tools. I support the idea of at least mentioning the right name of the pieces. If someone without further knowledge wants to follow along or invest(igate) he has the right search terms on hand.

     

    Did I miss it? Or did you not tell what huuuuge set you got to play with? This looks like a rather complete bundle i am very interested in.

     

    Thank you for posting so detailed. I am sure this is a big help for many around without related training.

  2. @roymattblack I have scanned the pictures of 3 books and one magazine. The books text isn't readable completely as I aimed for the pictures. The magazine text is completely readable if you know your German. Several engine shots included, though all from above inside the car.

    We need to work out a way to send you over 120MB (30 Scans at 300dpi). I don't want to compress more than the scanner software already did.

    If you need specific information let me know, I'll browse through the texts and see if I can find any. If you want the texts, I'd shoot them with my camera. Might be harder to read, but scanning is really hard on the spines of those large books. Don't want to ruin them - they're not mine after all.

     

    I Can zip into several folders and send via e-mail or give you a dropbox link. If you have any other suggestions, let me know.

     

    Jan

  3. Roy, seems like my dad found some information and pictures spread over several of his books. Also a longer article in a magazine. Haven't seen yet what he has, will collect on Friday and scan over the weekend. I'll contact you then and request a mailadress to send the stuff to - not going to put it here since it's probably copyrighted material.

    Hope your German is not too rusted?

  4. Hi Roy,

     

    I browsed through some books as promised, but couldn't find much on first glimpse. I asked my dad to take a deeper look into some more books he has stowed away, but he didn't really know much about the xj13, so I don't think he'll find much, if anything.

     

    Sorry!

  5. It might be a nice touch to keep your video collection in one thread. At least give some meaningful names as topic. Like Destruction derby 1, Destruction derby 212, you get it. Quite annoying to open up just another thread with stuff that's not of any interest which takes forever to load on the phone with its embedded content. Please be aware, I have no problem with you. It's just this habit that annoys me. Maybe I'm not the only one. Maybe I am. Just wanted to let you know. It's up to you, what you make out of it.

     

    Out of real interest, why are you sharing all these videos of hilarious car culture? Are you in any way involved?

     

    Jan

    • Like 1
  6. Will follow this closely. This is one of the dream cars that were cool back when I was a kid. Right beside Porsche 959 and Ferrari F40. The XJ220 ranked always high in my book. Those sleek lines are just beautiful. Though I like the 959 even a tad more for there was the Rallye version of it.

    • Like 2
  7. This obviously had to be the winner. While most of the others look kind of alike and so much like the american hotrod cliché (short, low front, wide back, open engine bay, chrome everywhere) your build looks really inspired. And it adds something to the theme that most hotrods lack: elegance. Your car is overly elegant, a hommage to the original car, though obviously modded to the max. But still could be driven in style, and not only at a dragstrip.

    You captured the essence of the background you created for your build and you captured the essence of the car. Very well built and painted - this is a killer. Perfection in any way I can think of.

     

    Thank you for showing. I save the pictures for inspiration, if you don't mind?

    • Like 1
  8. I agree that with oils you don't get as much trouble with small brushes as with acrylic paints. They simply don't dry out that fast. Some day I will try oil paints on miniatures. But those waiting times always let me chose acrylics.

  9. This I usually do with a size 0 W&N series 7 or a Springer Series 1754 size 0. I am not a fan of smaller brushes as the acrylics tend to dry up too quick to give me good results. I barely use anything smaller than 0 these days. Most other things I do with size 2. (Though the sizes differ significantly between manufacturers). When I started I went with very small brushes which made it actually harder for me to paint well.

     

    Edit: I mainly paint 28mm to 32mm "Heroic Scale" Miniatures, to give a sense of size/scale.

  10. As a miniatures painter I do all my painting with sable brushes. I exclusively work with acrylic paints of different makes, mainly Vallejo Game Color, Vallejo Model Air and Schmincke Aero Color. Synthetic brushes I only use for rough work like priming and basing.
    The sable brushes do live way longer than any synthetic ones and keep a perfect point for very long times. Though I found huge differences between makes. Daler-Rowney and Da Vinci sable brushes almost instantly died on me, so they won't see any money again. I mainly paint with Springer (who manufacture for many model and miniture companies!) because they are very cheap yet of very good quality. I also have and use a view Winsor & Newton ones which are considered the bees knees. VERY pricey, though.

     

    I highly recommend to stay away from brushes supplied by Revell, Tamiya and the likes or by color companies. They are simply rebranded and sold at a way higher price (Vallejo sells rebranded Springer Brushes afaik. So does Army painter and EM4-Miniatures). Often enough the quality is quite poor (Revell... Don't know who makes these).

     

    Key to a long brush life is taking care. Never (!!!) get paint up to the ferrule, never use the brush to take paint from the pot. If you get paint up to the ferrule immediately wash it out thoroughly. If you don't the pigments get soaked up into the ferrule where they dry and force the brush to split. You have no real chance of cleaning them out there. Don't push over the tip or force it into edges. Clean your brush carefully, not only when changing colours. Do it every now and then during prolonged sessions without colour change. After use clean it very thoroughly. Avoid pushing and rotating the bristles against the walls or ground of your container to "push" the pigments out. This can kink them - they break like real hair. Just swing the brush back and forth rapidly in the fluid to wash out the pigments. Let the fluid do the work. To do that, use the right cleaning fluid. Obviously tap water won't do it for enamel paint. After cleaning pull the brush through a V-folded paper towel. Let the towel soak out the liquid. If you still see pigments repeat the cleaning. Form the tip while pulling over the towel. The hair will stay in the form you give it while drying. You can use brush soap to help taking care of your brushes.

     

    Don't pull out dented hairs. Cut them instead. If you pull them you brushes will start losing hairs because they are not pressed thoroughly in the ferrule.

     

    Most brushes these days die on me because the bristles dry out over time and develop splits like human hair. But I get many month of regular use out of them. Take care and enjoy ;)

    • Like 5
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