Schwarz-Brot

Well, we would need to know more about the solution the electrodes are placed in. Not worth the effort. The supply only can deliver 12W. I guess the "controller" just makes sure you don't draw more than 1A, which is the maximum the supply is rated for. So it would be anything inbetween next to nix and a maximum of 1A. I am kind of surprised you get a really thick layer deposed on the material. Good to know!

Kind of weird to regulate a current driven process by selecting the voltage. Do you know which currents you actually produce?

Some nice stipling going on there.

I really hope this works out as planned. Can't wait to see some plated goodness!

I'm sorry to say so, Roy. But the only scale that allows you to capture all the details would be 1:1. So I'd say go for it!

Speedpainting is something I couldn't do before I left the brushes. Since my break I am much less interested in perfection. This is the only way to get through so many miniatures in those rare painting sessions. Glad you like 'em.

I am with BillyD: Good paintjob. Your pictures make him appear quite large, but from the grass on the base I think I might be mislead. How large is he really?

Thank you, BillyD. These are supposedly 28mm miniatures. As usual these days more on the 32mm side, so I'd say "Heroic Scale" as the wargamers call it.

Thank you, guys! Trust me, they are threatening when the hoard is coming to get you. I'll get some in-game pictures the next time we play. I am no MJ guy, never understood the hype. Never saw the thriller video clip. But sure enough I got the very same comment when I posted those pictures over at the CMON forum. Regarding skill and time: The zombies are quite simple and fast to paint. I estimate a total working time between 20 and 30 minutes per zombie. Including dipping, varnishing and rebasing. The survivors were painted the "classic way", which of course is way more time consuming. The workflow was as follows: All miniatures of the game got cleaned in one huge batch. After drying a few light buffs with light grey primer (Army Painter), just enough to give the surface some grip, not even close to opaque. I then batch-painted them in groups of identical miniatures - that's always eight of them. This allows to see them side by side and helps with painting them all different. It was roughly one evening per group, mostly done at a regular painting session we've got around here. Procedure is as follows: Just basecoating with vallejo acrylics. No highlights, no shadows. Simple plain colours. Small mishaps stay uncorrected. There's enough blood later to hide most oops moments. Let dry for 24 hours. Literally dipping (Army Painter Strong tone). Taking away the excess of stain with a clean brush. This allows to control the light and shadows quite nicely and avoids heavy pooling. Let dry for 48 hours. Picking details if necessary. Most times there's nothing to pick on the zombies. Let dry for 24 hours. Army Painter Ultra Matte Varnish in several ultra thin layers. Takes away the shine of the stain perfectly. Picking shiny details if necessary. BLOOOD! I used Games Workshops blood effect paint. Works well for zombies. Used to hide moldlines, mishaps. Also applied to taste. Let dry... Cut off the bases and glue onto clear ones. This is for sure good enough for gaming miniatures but far from showroom stuff. After all - anything with colour on it looks better on the table then a blank plastic miniature. I'd say go for it! Quite rewarding to paint in such an effective way. Comes close to cheating, I think.

Gotta be the teaser of the month!

@kpnuts underneath the video is a "more" button. If you hit it you can report the video telling youtube this is your own copyrighted material. Usually they are pretty fast to take things down then.

Thank you, Dave. Mark, I stumbled over your profile picture before and meant to drop you a line. Ned is also a favourite of mine. Too bad I didn't get Zombicide on the table since it's painted completely. Soon... Funny you mention Climbing as interest. I spent quite a lot of time climbing before I had an accident. Traffic, not climbing. Since then I've been without a regular partner and lost lots of motivation. But I want to get back to a least bouldering in the next month when I'm through with studying.

Looks like a winner to me, despite the lost mirror. I totally love those cars.

Beautiful in silver. Tempting to get one!

All Zombies sorted by model. There's eight of every pose in the game box. Takes a bit of effort to make them all look different. Hope you like it! Walkers: Runners: Fatties: Heroes and Abomination: On the board: Every Zombie in the game messing up my survivors (BIG, only linked) Those are finished, but you are very welcome to comment and criticize. Season #2 is in the work, but delayed by other games. If you'd like to see more boardgame miniatures, let me know. When my time allows I'll be working on The others: 7 sins, Zombicide #2, Sword & Sorcery (to land in May) and Kingdom Death: Monster (to land later this year). I don't do much miniature painting anymore besides those gaming miniatures, but I think they are up to a standard that is ok to post here. If you think this is not the right forum, drop me a line.

My Zombicide #1. Lots of pictures ahead! Those I started in november 2015. I was done September 2016. For those not knowing: Zombicide is a Boardgame series by Coolminiornot. Famous for their excessive Kickstarter stuff. This game got me back into painting miniatures and ultimately model building. This is what I wrote back when I started: Those are the survivors: Last a groupshot from the players perspective. I think this rocks. So much better than unpainted minis! I feel my painting style matches the games artwork pretty well. Hope you like it, too. Next post is about all the Zombies.

I gave mine a double purpose. I use the outside to test my setup, constantly spraying random colours on. So I don't see when the inside gets dirty. I don't care of what's going on in there. Why would I? It's a tool to clean another tool. So if I need yet another tool to clean that tool what tool would I clean that with...? Not worth my time.

I enjoyed the build thread quite a lot. And I like the outcome very much. Only thing I dislike is the wiper. I realized this with other builds of this car as well - it looks way to massive and out of scale. But this for sure isn't your fault. You did a superb job on this. I especially like the paintjob. Not too shiny for a car of that era but shiny enough to show you cared a lot about what you did there.

Following your every step. This is fascinating stuff!

Is the pipe already glued to the model? I'd try to do such things by hand: find a way to spin the pipe slowly but steady and bring the brush to it carefully, starting at the bottom and moving steadily to the top. This should result in a very regular spiral pattern. If the part is already mounted I fear this is not of help to you.

For placing these tiny screws there's a very simple trick: Get a small strip of paper, pin a little hole into it and put the screw in there. Use this paper flap to position and hold the screw while turning it in. Right before the head is down to the surface rip the paper off. Fasten the screw. This simple trick avoids the hassle of holding the screw with your fingers. No more frustration

I'd be into some famous pikes peak cars. Starting of course with the winged Quattro and ending with Loebs Peugeot 208. Then there's the Ken Block Mustang. But I might tackle that myself.

Wow. Just wow. Your work and patience is a major inspiration for me. I am really looking forward to May when I'll finally be able to start modelling again.

I can imagine two reasons for two hexes: 1. As you mentioned: To set the size of the spark gap. or 2. The larger piece is an adapter that fits a one-size spark plug to some typical larger threads one might have found on engines of that time. In either case the position of the hexes would be random. Technical drawings are not to picture reality but to transport information about measurements and / or functionality. This means sizes, shapes and positions can be different from what you'd see in the real world. Shocks for example would be shown in either their lowest / most compressed position or, more likely in a technical drawing - in completely relaxed state at the other end. I am glad you found a way to duplicate your pieces. I think retrying the cooling liquid was a major helper here and it show that you get a feeling of the process. A real machinist feels, smells, hears and sees what his parts and tools need I feel a bit embarrassed I advised against the use of cooling liquid. This is missing experience with such small parts. Sorry for that. Really interesting to see how differently things behave on a small scale.

Yeah, probably. But don't await it to happen anytime soon. Im working on my master thesis atm, so everything else is on the backburner. When I'm through with that, I have some projects to pick up and finish first. Modelling wise mainly my Anti-Curbside Impreza and the accompanying Truck. A workshop to complete, as its construction stalled over winter. A turntable to repair for a friend. Many miniature projects are to drop in over the next months: The Others and Zombicide Prison Outbreak already landed and I began painting the miniatures before starting my thesis. Next up is Sword & Sorcery which is expected to arrive at the end of May. If it is a good game, the miniatures will need paint for sure. Then estimated for August is the first wave of Kingdom Death: Monster... Did I mention painting miniatures is my primary modelling interest? Need to get back into sports. And I fear I'll have to take a full time job sometime soon... I can already feel my time fading.