Schwarz-Brot

I think the fabric looks too rough in that scale. Maybe you can find some silk or something similar with very fine pattern to make the pieces from? Glueing might be better than sewing. I guess you'll have to experiment a bit. Obviously you've come a long way since you did her the first time. I do not touch up old miniatures, there's just too much out there that I want to paint. But it is very satisfying to see what a level can be achieved after just a few years in the hobby.

Is this part of your master thesis? Or just a project along the way? There's a lot of research going into production and prototyping methods, therefore there's a wealth of information out there. But nothing beats personal experience. Looks like you've got a great variety of tools at your hands, and it seems like you know how to use them. So far you show some impressive pictures. For the key: I'D find it too big and heavy for sure, with those solid materials. I always have my keys in my pocket. This would disturb me. Are you working with and for RR or is it a topic you chose because you're interested in it? I'll follow this, as I have always had a high interest in industrial / product design, but ultimately chose the engineering side of things.

Well, matte grey is kind of a trend in the super sportscar tuning world at the moment, so why not? I'd prefer matte with my grey, but that is just me. I really like the yellow-grey contrast in the details.

You know you can buy Eye-dropper bottles in glass and vallejo style droppers in various materials dirt cheap and brand new in bulk?

I'd go with quick setting 2k epoxy glue. Plenty of strenghth for most joints. To get around the setting times I sometimes join several parts with tiny dots of a CA glue. This is also easy to break away if the alignment is not perfect. After that the joints can be carefully filled with epoxy glue for strenghth. Pinning is an option, but I would not generally recommend it. It's not like you're building a toy that's expected to see rough handling. Soldering I would not recommend for white metal as the melting point is equally low as any solder (if you use any at all). It is very easy to mess up parts this way. I'd keep the solder for PE parts (and electronics). For pinning paperclips are a super cheap option. The wire is very stiff. Don't use your good side cutters for them!

Beautiful work. I am really impressed.

No Problems but the "switch". Those are not very reliable and you need to find a way to incorporate it into your model. I personally would purpose build the lights as I need them with a real switch on a wire to be mounted at a convenient place. LEDs, wires and switches cost next to nothing. Hardest and probably most expensive part would be a holder for the coin cells.

What happened to classic sculpting in the real world? Impressive model, though not what I would back.

I like the lady.

2k glue might help. Another trick is to place and hold the pieces in position with blue tack and only then apply the glue. Without the pieces moving it usually works.

I see. So I guess it is a question of style and intention. Without any offence - to me miniatures without shadows and highlights look like toys, no matter how much detail there is. This way of painting is something I realize quite often around here, but usually I don't care to comment. Thanks to your last post I finally kind of understand what's going on - the painting is mainly about historical accurate representation. Maybe I am too far into the larger fantasy and scifi stuff where endless hours are put into a single miniature to get it to a believable and lifelike look and where smooth colour transitions are the main goal. I totally understand this is not reasonable with the huge masses of small miniatures you paint. I do know since I also paint a lot of gaming miniatures where speed kind of counts to get them to the table while the game is still new. Since I wouldn't skip shadows and highlights on my miniatures dipping is the way to go. This kills the toy look like nothing else with next to no effort and also protects the miniatures while being handled which is a huge plus in my book. If this works against your intentions, my advice is of course nonsense.

I've got some old revell miniatures in 1/72. I'll give it a try some time, I think. Just to see how it will work out. I dislike inks or washes for this kind of shading - they are too thin and don't work well without super crisp sculpts.

Basically you can omit all shading and highlighting with dipping. Though I am not sure you do that at all at this scale. It is a method often used by fantasy wargamers. You block in the base colours, say like this picture of yours: You then literally dip the miniatures in a bucket of paint like stain. The stain pools in the recesses and creates very smooth transitions between shadows and highlights. Let it simply drip off or take away excess with a brush (that's what I do, because it allows to further push the highlights. Let dry and give a matte clearcoat - the shading is super glossy. My Zombies from the Zombicide boardgame were done this way: Blood and Metallics I do after the clearcoat. The original bases were cut of after painting was finished because I wanted those clear ones to see the board underneath. If you need a more detailed explanation feel free to ask. Hope this helps

You think so? Maybe do some research first.

Same as on Freds thread. I'd go for dipping with these small guys. So many of them. You paint them in batches, I guess?

Oh man, these are so small. Ans so many of them. I would totally go for the dipping method with these if I ever had to paint them.

Yes, this kind of makes her special. Also it picks up the colours of the backdrop which helps pulling everything together. Then the blue colour provides an even more mystical aura to her and sets the focus in all that white. Skin tones, especially cold ones, would probably be too pale to work as focal point.

top work. I like this one very much.

I have no experience but would absolutely expect the same behaviour since you fill up the structure of the surface you just created. I always thought pigments were simply applied onto a moist surface and left as is. Am I wrong there? This of course wouldn't work an models that are handled a lot after finishing. I think in this case after creating the structure and sealing it a touch up with paint is unavoidable.

Another miniature-heavy kickstarter for me: Cthulhu Wars Onslaught 3... Will arrive sometime 2019 I estimate. No worries yet. Around the end of this month the first of four waves of Kingdom Death 1.5 is about to land. This will keep me busy for quite a while.

Eyes to fall in love with! Brilliant so far.

You do a great job there. Though I am really shocked to see how little detail Revell put into a larger scale model. I was tempted to get one, but this is ridiculous. So here's a double thank you for showing your work!

I moved on quite a while ago. I now mainly paint single miniatures for my personal display and the miniatures of some Boardgames in larger quantities. Revell did not suit my fantasy and sci-fi taste. Airfix was not available from the local stores.

Wow, you've got quite a lot to do there! My first adventures into miniature painting before that internet came around... Revell miniatures in 1/72 and 1/35. Took me quite a while to realize there were much better models out there...

I'd file a channel in there and glue in a piece of stretched sprue of the right diameter. Then carefully cut and sand into the desired shape.