Schwarz-Brot

Very nice and lifelike textures. This is really good stuff.

beautiful work, nice details. Did you use decals for the lettering? Looks so clean, can't believe this is brushwork!

Not sure about fusion, but using autodesk Inventor every single day my approach would be two steps: Draw the outer shape of one side of the "bowling pin" to its middle axis. Make the middle axis a rotating axis. Step two would simply be turning 360° around that axis. This is a very powerful function in inventor, that lets you simply create parts that have complex rotational shapes. Maybe fusion can do this, too. Have to get me fusion and play around a bit. Edit: Great to see this thread coming back to life.

Revell Lambo Diablo VT. Wanted something for a quick build inbetween. Have nothing that I'd do quick and dirty in my stash...

I'm more a proxxon guy then a dremel one. I think they give the same value for less money. A good combination in my eyes is a micromot engraver in combination with a simple stand (MB 200). Can be used by hand or with the stand for exact drilling and simple milling work. They have better stands that allow for more complex work, but I think then their dedicated milling machine is a better and more precise option. I personally dislike cordless tools where it is not necessary (more weight, inconsistent power with cheap tools, always the hazzle to reload, more expensive, always out of power when needed...) . This is a case where I think it is worth nothing to go cordless.

Meilenwerk was kind of a franchise / Trademark built around anything oldtimer. The ones in Berlin and Düsseldorf are now operating independently under the trademark "Classic Remise". http://www.remise.de/ Maybe you can get some input there. There's a german wikipedia article about it if you are into the history: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meilenwerk#Meilenwerk_Region_Stuttgart_(Böblingen)

I don't know these washes. But be careful with pure black. It often looks out of place on miniatures - too harsh. Never liked using it because it more often then not made a mess out of nice miniatures.

Very good first! And a perfect start, I would say. It's good to start with putting down even colour blocks and try to stay "within the lines". You even went further and applied some edge highlights pushing the contrast. Of course there's bits and pieces that are not perfect, but that's ok. You have to consider a few things before you critique yourself too harsh: - You know it is not perfect, so you see it everytime you look at it. Someone else will most likely not even notice any mistake with a quick look. Most people don't spend much time looking at miniatures. The first impression counts to them. Take two steps back and look from that distance - that's what most people see when they look at your work. - looking at digital pictures of your miniatures can push you into a deep depression. To overcome this take the real miniature to your monitor and resize the picture until it has the same size. This puts all those "errors" into the right persepective. - Know that you'll get way better very quick by constantly painting a bit. Don't overdo your first miniatures - striving for perfection takes forever and kills any motivation. Instead aim for a fast achieved clean look. Metallic colours are a special topic with miniature painters. There's those who try to imitate metallic surfaces with normal colours, a very advanced technique known as NMM - Non Metallic Metal. Then theres the classic way with "metallic" paints - Paints that look like metal right out of the bottle. These contain flakes of mika to achieve a metal looking surface. Pure they usually look very flat without shadows and highlights. What you should know on your way - they can be highlighted like normal colours and they look way better with a dark wash applied over them. ...When you delve into the realm of washes give vallejo game color "Smokey Ink" a try (72.068). This stuff is an awesome weapon to many painting problems. I used it successfully for darklining, as a wash, as glaze, even as filter to pull whole miniatures together. It thins easily to the needed consistency. For Metallics: I dislike most of the game colour series metallics. They do not behave well, are a bit hard to thin down, do not cover well... Often Games Workshop Metallics are considered being better. I personally found a good solution in Vallejos Model Air Metallic range. Those work well for my painting style. They still do not cover well with a single coat but they flow better as they are pre-thinned for airbrush use. This makes them more easy to apply for me. If you have questions or need help with a certain topic just ask. And just keep going

one can order directly from 81 without problems. Shipping was included or really cheap, irc.

Impressive and very dynamic model! Though I feel like the rider is looking quite a bit too large compared to the horse.

https://www.detinnenroos.com/nl/ Met these guys on a trade fair a few years ago.

Your OSL is amazing. Very effective. Not a huge fan of the light ring in the sphere between hose and weapon, though.

Cthulhu. And sculpted by hand, not digital. Can't help it, there's just something lost with digital sculpts. Couldn't resist just another Kickstarter as always. Be fast, if you want to jump in: http://kck.st/2ImcU6x

Hi Paul (?), thank you for digging this one up. The engine kit is more suitable for road cars than for the customized rally machines. It is of acceptable quality and not too expensive. Detail is quite good and small. You'll have to decide for yourself if you'd rather live with a too small but detailed engine or if you want it to look more accurate. I ordered the kit directly from http://www.eightyone81.com/ Communication was a bit sparse, but everything arrived after a few weeks and was nicely packed. Anyone, if you wonder what happened: I finished my master thesis, switched jobs, am full time employed now and got me a house to rebuild to a modern standard. Not much model building going on anytime soon. Planning on kids we might speak of years without any modelling. I'll eventually return to the Impreza and the truck, but for now both are tucked away.

yeah, that's it. Absolutely impressive engineering. But lots of the emotion in motorsports is transported by the sounds. Maybe in a few years we're able to identify cars by the sound of their electric motors. Today to me there's nothing like the deep thunder of a V8 or the buzzing of a Japanese biturbo revving to the limits, blowing flames. But then there's differences. In Drag-racing for example, or time attack races where a single car is on the road, the sound matters much more to me. With lots of cars on the track there's more potential for action, which is not entirely dependent on the sounds. I do for example enjoy a formula E race more than a F1. But that might just be me.

Same here! Kept them like little treasures.

Confrontation is back! Well, kind of. There's a kickstarter going on right now to get a good part of the classic miniatures back into production. Seems to be plastic this time, but why not. I'm in, always loved those miniatures and the studio paintjobs where always special and super colourful. I hope it is ok to post the link. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/996665814/confrontation-classic-the-legendary-skirmish-game?ref=discovery&term=confrontation classic

Kingdom Death Kickstarter Wave 2 landed a few days ago. The twelve classic expansions to the core game. Holy... And this is just the beginning. The game is rated 17+ for good reasons, just google for it, if you are interested. I do not think I'd be allowed to show pictures here. I finally settled on a way to paint the miniatures - I will take an arty approach instead of painting anything in full detail. I am going to do a full black basecoat to everything and then airbrush pure white highlights, just like black and white pictures or some fine comic artwork in the style of the sin city movie. The lanterns - a constant theme across all models - may get some soft glow in warm colours to work against the harsh airbrushed shadows and lights. This way I should get a reasonably fast and extraordinary paintjob suitable for an extraordinary game while it still allows to visually push all the fine details.

This is a slow hobby anyway. No need to hurry! Dein Nick ist auch klasse und mit hohem Wiedererkennungswert. Viele Grüße aus Krefeld, Jan

I might be interested in a body, if you do a mold! Great topic, looking forward to your updates.

There's also Wax Pens: http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/amazing-tools/368-wax-picking-pencil.html Very useful for light and small parts.

What kind of collectors Item is it aiming to be? - A highly detailed display only model with very accurate details and perfect high quality surfaces does not need a working suspension, but every bit that can be seen under any angle must be detailed. - A kind of functional model with "play features" like opening doors, hood and bonnet should also have a working suspension and steering. If it can be seen it should be looking like the original, but the functions could be simplyfied. - A more High quality toy like model should have lots of working features and gimmicks like light and sound. Squishiness is a must, detail could be less. Might even think of an RC-toy, or for model racetracks. - A model Kit should detail any part, working features I wouldn't expect as a builder, but everything should be detailed, no matter if one sees it after being built. Maybe this helps a bit.

She's a beauty! And you did a very cool display base.

Thank you. I think I put Paris and Florida on top of my travelling plans... If only my girlfriend was that much into cars. I admire your dedication and enjoy every single post.

@sharknose156 Aderendhülsen: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_wire_ferrule