Schwarz-Brot

In your photobooth it looks like a real one in a museum! Beautiful.

great to see the 90s Celica side by side. Those Safari cars are really cool monsters. I like what I see, I really want to build one now. Do you have pictures of the 1992 online somewhere?

I love it. Love those blocky looking cars of those times, and I especially love the wild rally versions. You did a beautiful job, too bad there's no motor to be seen. Is the model a curbside? I bet you'd make a masterpiece of a full detail kit.

This is typical behaviour I experienced with many waterbased acrylic paints. Especially Vallejo (Game Color, Model Air). Drying retarder helps quite a lot with those. Make sure it matches your type of paint!

Same tip. Try cmon. Painting translucent clothing is amongst the harder things when painting miniatures. Freehanding netting or lacing is another one up then. Good luck!

I'd like to point you to http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/6-painting These forums are mainly frequented by fantasy and sci-fi painters, but the techniques are pretty much the same. There's some gems of information from award-winning painters hidden in there. I'm pretty sure there's one or another about faces and eyes as well. Edit: Also a search on youtube will give you some valuable results. Leave the scale out of your search terms. The techniques can be adapted to all scales.

uh, didn't look into Warhammer for quite a while. So Slaanesh is coming back to the table? Maybe I should take a look again.

At work we sometimes print on high gloss adhesive with a silver surface. This stuff is very thick and it always seems to not work properly. The toner rubs off very easily. A service technician told us the fusing process wasn't working and helped us out. The trick that solved it for us was setting up the printer for very thick transparency sheets via driver. Then we dialed in a higher-than-normal temperature and also slowed down the fusing speed in the printers config for that type of medium. The paper is VERY hot when it comes out, but the toner is fused as it should. We have a pretty high-endish Kyocera printer. The adjustments are hidden deep inside the printers configuration. AFAIK they cannot be made via driver setup. HTH.

That's a huge difference! I never seem to be able to sand my paint that smooth. I'll rub through way too fast.

I for sure will follow this. Is the progress on the real car posted somewhere? Would totally love to follow that, too!

A really beautiful car I didn't even know about. It's gonna be a long way to turn this into a diamond, but I'm sure you'll get there. I'll watch this topic closely, so much to learn here!

This, or just simple 2k-Glue. The one I use (Uhu) dries clear and becomes extremely strong but won't flow. Contacta clear won't flow either. You might get lucky with thinner or acetone. Find something that melts the mesh. Maybe you can find something that also melts the structural parts. If not, roughen them up to give some key and melt the mesh into place. That's what I would try, not tested!

Ed, this is very valuable information. Thank you for sharing. I guess my next diy project should be a pressure chamber... This seems to work really well. Also thank you to Jackman for digging up that infomercial.

Cutting with a knive and slowly sawing resin by hand is no concern since you produce large chips. Working with power tools should be done outside and with a good mask fit for that purpose. Sanding work can be done literally under water and produces no airborne dust that way - just do that work in a large bowl of water. Of course this is messy, so maybe no splashing for the living room, but works very well in the kitchen. As a bonus you don't have to wait till the weather is right.

Somehow I missed out big time on this thread, had a whole lot to look through. Seems like spring is a squiggy-season. Love it! Goblins and especially squig-herders and riders are an all-time favourite of mine. So cool, so crazy. And you absolutely get them right. Keep 'em coming!

blast from the past. Haven't seen a squig for quite a while. Lovely. The Empires troops never where my cup of tea, though your winged lancers are for sure some of the more impressive models. Do you intend to bring these to the table? I am sure that would be a good looking session.

Since this is one of my dreamcars I'll probably be able to own as a 1:1 I got me the very same kit. I'll follow closely, if I may.

The easiest way would be not to lock the spindle but to add a flat surface to your probably selfmade tool. Then add a guide for that surface to your toolbase, so your tool has to lean against it. In the case of a selfmade louvre stamping tool a slot could also work as a guide. @Dan, thank you again for the information!

Regarding white glue: I personally use a modern variation of bookbinders glue. This is as I understand it the same as carpenters glue, PVA, white glue or whatever you want to call it. It is the waterproof variety, but with added adhesion for glossy surfaces. The one I use for bookbinding and modelbuilding is "Planatol BB". Can be washed out and thinned with water as long as it is not hardened. Stays pretty flexible and dries to a clear, glossy finish. You should be able to get this at bookbinders suppliers in Belgium. In Germany white PVA-Glue is typically called "Leim" or "Holzleim". You should be able to find something like that in any diy-store. In Belgium you'll probably be able to get Pattex Holzleim or Ponal Holzleim, there's even a quick-drying variant: https://www.gerstaecker.at/Ponal-Express-Holzleim-Kleber.html Those are the big names in germany, there are countless no-name products out there. You'll have something similar in Belgium. Hope that helps.

Dan, I follow your every step and am impressed all the time, though I do not comment on a regular basis. So just thank you. For taking your time to share your process, for documenting your jigs and procedures, not just the finished product. There is so much to be learned here, and I am glad to follow. A few posts above you mentioned you sandblast the metal parts to avoid painting. This stuck in my head and I want to ask - do you use a sandblasting chamber, or do you work with something like an air eraser? What do you use as an abrasive? The effect is really nice. Thank you, Jan

My first try was with brush, recreating the box art / the then new movies. Worked ok, but the snake-like body has next to no texture. While this shadow like appereance works great in the movies it does not look too impressive as a static model. Trying to highlight a nearly black miniature without texture didn't work out too well either. So it went to the shelf of doom for several years until I restarted using my airbrush. Now it is in black primer again and partly started with a little green and red worked into the wings to go for a generic fantasy dragon look. Not too happy with this either, as it is not what one expects. This model is easily recognizable, so the movie colours are kind of a must. Next I'll try a pure black and white version with only a little colour bleeding in from the edges of the base, so a more arty look. We'll see where this leads me.

Wow, pure gold! Where did you dig out this one? I absolutely love it... I also have a nazgul from GWs LotR range, which is on my table since I initially got it. While the miniatures shape is great it is really hard to paint for the lack of surface detail.

Phone cameras can be tricky, but most allow some basic adjustments within the basic apps. I don't know what you want to achieve, but here's some general advice which works for any camera, even phones. Get as much light as possible, and then some. Taking pictures outside in daylight can help quite a lot, though direct sunlight may be too much. Place the camera on a sturdy surface or use a tripod (there are tiny ones for phones out there!). Focus can be a problem. Try to put the focus in areas with lots of detail, plain areas of similar colour are hard to resolve for the algorithm. The higher the f-number the larger is the depth of field but the longer it takes to take the picture (More light helps here!). With usual cameras a good rool of thumb is f11 to f16 or the likes which is said to give the most natural look. If you are really after a special detail try low f-numbers to narrow down the depth of field. To help with colors a good trick is to place a known white item in the picture. White rubbers (nylon?) are superb for this and cheap. You can use this as reference to auto-correct the white balance in gimp (free) or photoshop or maybe some other tools. Even cleaning the lens might improve your pictures. Hope that helps a little.

If you do a base the batteries can easily be hidden there.

A timeless beauty in all scales, up to the real world. Very well done.