Schwarz-Brot

Always scrolling to the bottom is really a pita. I'd rather see those "social" media buttons disappear. I know it counts nothing, but my vote is for bringing the button back up. down below dozens of unused forums it is just useless.

And that's exactly how to get children and swmbo interested in building creative things and later on joining the ranks of us modellers. Super simple, quick results, convincing enough to be swooshed. What more could one ask? Next would be the launch tower. Probably from a Cornflakes box.

Well, I'd totally prefer the alitalia livery, but hey, those we see quite often. This is for sure no color combo for me. The car is well built and looks great. And I still can appreciate the paint for being put on very well and clean. The masking obviously worked out quite good. I can see how hard it would be around the wheel archs then following the kink along the doors and especially the louvres on the bonnet. Great job.

I lost most pictures of that time in a harddrive crash. The picture dates back to 2006... This version got saved as my retouched pictures rested on a different hard drive. IIRC it was a phantom or a phantom II in silver. Edit: To clarify: It was a real car I stumbled over at an oldtimer event. 😅

checking out a new way to host pictures and wanted to share this picture. I took a while back and I thought you might like it. If you don't see it, please let me know.

Or a wife, kids, anyone else having a shot at creating stuff? Was not amused to find out when my girlfriend used my winsor&newton Series 7 brushes for pushing acrylics creatively over a canvas. Well they were there with all the other brushes, how could she know? They obviously were in better shape then her usual throw-away stuff 😅

Your painting skills are beyond believable. Perfect finish. I like this one even more than the Nomad. Must be the wings.

the thinnest plasticard you can get will serve you better than any quality of cardboard. No matter what kind of cardboard you chose, it is heavily affected by humidity. This will give you more problems than it's worth when painting and probably sagging and warping models in the long run. That being said I have used some stronger papers with a sealed, semiglossy surface which behaved much like plasticard, but still would warp over time. They came from straight from a printing plant that did high end art prints, so that's what this paper was used for. Since you didn't state what you're going to build I may be wrong and my points may not affect your work. I still hope I could help a bit.

Close to perfection. The paintwork looks really flawless and it is a beautiful colour combination. The combination of chromes becomes obvious at this level of quality. I'd guess bumpers, hubcabs and frames on the lights are kit chrome with the rest being your work. Is that BMF or some paint sorcery? To be honest - I like your slightly darker chrome over the silverish kit chrome.

So how does the belt run? I thought it would be laid around the spindle (obvious), then each side run down via the vertikal pulleys to change direction. Next woud be another pulley on the drive shaft of a motor or perhaps into a little gearbox. That last pulley I don't see.

With a lathe you could do your own 😉 Beautifully simple drill. But I am missing a pulley and a belt there?

I always hoped I'd get to see some new stuff coming from your bench. I remember very well your attention to detail and learned a lot reading through your posts. The base cobra looks quite good for a diecast. I'm excited to see how you're going to improve that.

There's a blood effect paint by citadel (games workshop) that works quite well. Applied thin or thinned a bit, it gives good bloodstaines. Applied as-is it is quite thick, tends to pull some strings and gives a nice glossy wet-looking and quite thick blood-effect. This works very well to scale with GWs 32mm miniatures. Might not be suitable for such large figures as the death dealer.

Indeed a huge improvement. Only thing I have is the eyes, but that might be an effect of the photos. The glow is too strong in my book, looks more like flashlights then the deep glow of demons eyes. If it is that strong in reality, I'd vote for a bigger resistor to bring it down a bit. The paintwork is nice and fitting. But what really stands out to me is your sculpting. This really pushed it to a whole different class. Well done! Jan

None that would be fine enough. You can utilize some cheap non-hardening putty to take the form instead. If you need it more durable something like Fimo is a good bet. Take the form, then bake it.

I don't think this thing would be terrifying. It's too slow. The early racecars and record breaking prototypes would terrify me. Still I would totally love to drive one to see what it feels like. Great build so far! Take a look at this video. Found it a while back and it is truely fascinating. A product of simpler times, yet beautifully engineered.

Don't worry, Dan. I follow every step you take and always look forward to your next post. As I said to Mr C in private - your posts are always a source of inspiration and encouragement to keep pushing. Often a lesson in creative problem solving. Not that I have the time for any modelling. But not having the time hits me harder with every post of you masters around here.

Thank you for keeping this up to date. Learned quite a lot from you post.

"Engine" 😂 Colour is spot-on. But I have never seen one in such a good condition...

I think Codger would like to see it finished in any other color then the classic white. I personally like the white on this specific car very much. It has so much class. Great start on a rather simple kit. I'll keep looking for updates.

Codger, no questions from my side for now - we'll get to that when I start my own big build. But since nobody feels the need to say anything at all I'll say at least this: THANK YOU. THANK YOU SO MUCH for reviving this glorious topic. For many hours of restoring work after the PB-disaster. @Greg B - thank you for allowing this and helping out, and also for keeping this thread clean. I said it in private, and I say it again: I am very glad to see those beautiful and helpful pictures back online. You know I read through every single post and it is really helpful to have this all condensed down to the very essence. Without the countless (well deserved) comments inbetween the information density becomes insane. While most of the emotions that made the long thread such an epic journey are now missing, this pure documentational thread is even more valuable for every large scale builder. Specific tips and tricks for old Pochers are one thing, but this goes far beyond that: It gives motivation and encourages to hack away on even very valuable kits. It is a strong reminder of what can be achieved with patience and perseverance. It teaches to evaluate the own boundaries and to re-evaluate and push them constantly. I hope this thread will stay pinned for at least a very very long time. And I hope it inspires others as much as it keeps inspiring me. Jan

No experience with this exact stuff, but several ways to tackle this. - Epoxy clay usually has several setting phases. Most are very tacky early on, the longer you wait the less tacky they become. So the early moments are good for putting the stuff where it should stay, to be sculpted into form later in the process. - the sheet was probably not cleaned before, so might have had dust, oils and production agents on it. None of this helps with sticking. - the sheet is usually quite glossy, meaning it has a very smooth surface. No teeth for the epoxy to grip. A wipe with an abrasive helps quite a lot, as does denting with a knife or anything to provide some irregular surface. I is actually a technique if you need to sculpt very thin surfaces to do so on a thin plastic sheet (sheet protector) that can be peeled away later. HTH, Jan

Thank you, Martin. That helps a lot. My mistake is probably working with a too shallow depth of field from too far away. My goto is an 100mm macro, equals about 160mm with my camera (Konica-Minolta Dynax 7D). Since it's by far the best lens I own I rarely change it. This of course dictates a huge distance to the object. Maybe I should try and hunt down an equally nice shorter lens. The kit lenses are quite poor quality, and my other glasses are far more into the longer ranges. I'm the guy for the "arty" detail shots - this is what I usually do and what I am comfortable with. Again, thank you. Jan

The backdrops were clear to me from the picture, but thanks for elaborating. The equipment and technique of taking the pictures I was after. Sorry for not being clear about that. Equipment is defined now. Glad it's not the latest iPhone or equivalent. What lens / apperture do you use? I have some nice equipment to play with, but while managing to take macro shots in nature easily I struggle to get figures and models just right. I use a diffusor for my flash usually, but using a reflector for bouncing of I didn't think of. It's just logical, when I think of it. Ah well.. I'd be glad to get some tips on that topic, If you don't mind. Thank you!

How would one cut with that? Sounds more like a punch and die affair to me. So - nothing I'd know of.