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Schwarz-Brot

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Everything posted by Schwarz-Brot

  1. Can be done, but the results usually require lots of cleanup. Some professional software as well as hardware is out there that helps a lot and costs a lot as well. There are open source options, but the overhead of cleaning up the files always let me go back to draw the parts right away. Cheapish consumer options I have not tried. One thing one must understand is that you can only scan what your camera(s) can see in a straight line. So any overhang kills all the information that lies underneath and the software cannot correct for that, so assumes closed surfaces.
  2. Printers and the respective software and slicers usually love and expect .stl files.
  3. Only yet I started visiting britmodeller again. For many personal reasons I couldn't do that for several months. I wondered why I wouldn't read any posts by Mr. C and was mildly alarmed. Then by chance I fell over a comment on Rons thread and was really concerned. I headed over to the Sedanca sticky thread only to find my way here... This is really sad news to me. I was looking forward to getting back into my conversations with Chas. I don't think there are many gentlemen like him around these days. Always willing to help, always friendly, no matter what happened. I know Mr. C had many interests besides modelling and was always eager to share his passion and experiences. He would take the time to explain in detail again and again if only you asked - until you fully understood his point. His patience in this regard was as endless as his patience when chasing his vision. Even his wording was always elaborate. We all have lost a great mentor and a very supportive member of this community. The biggest ambassador of large scale car modelling one can imagine. Even more like a preacher at times - you car modellers know, what I mean. I know I will miss his guidance and the countless references he always had on hand. Thank you, Mr. C, Codger, Chas... Rest in peace my friend. Jan @silver911 thank you for posting these bad news and making sure this thread would be found. Very thoughtful. I have no contact with codgers family, so I would never have known what happened if you had not informed us.
  4. Plastic cannot be electroplated since for the process you need a surface that conducts electricity. This can be overcome by first painting a layer of conductive paint, but that will eat up some detail. I'm not sure you can electroplate gold with homebrew methods since you need carrier solution. Next problem is getting the the plating even on all surfaces. I am pretty sure leaf gilding would give far superiour results. The material isn't too expensive and applying it is possible with care and patience. Weight won't be a problem with neither method. Polished surfaces will probably out of reach. Probably you'll get better answers by asking a goldsmith.
  5. I always enjoy collections that are built around a common theme. This really is brilliant, and I love that sense of humor. If the falcon was listed it has a rightful place in that display! Nicely built and finished as well.
  6. Man, I wish I had a time machine on hand, too. I just thought I read something about building Pochers and MFH and fitment the other day. Never mind, looking forward to the struggles of getting an ancient Pocher to look like a decent model. It's always entertaining and educating to see those parts wrangled into acceptable behaviour. Good luck.
  7. FEP is a must. LCDs do get dirty, scratched or simply die, but that is not a part I'd lay on the side. The Lighting units also might die over time, but again I wouldn't care about spares. Usually all spares can be ordered from china when needed. Only reason to have a spare at hand would be when printing comercially with quite a lot of printing. But in this Case I'd opt for more printers running simultaniously as cheap as they are and not bother with replacement parts.
  8. Your Builds are a masterclass in Airbrush and weathering work. You show stunning results and I almost always bookmark your threads for later reference. This one is no difference. Thank you for the detailed pictures and explanation!
  9. It's probably due to age. I stored mine in the fridge for some years before I got rid of it as I got used to other materials. A little heat helps to make it soft. Less of the hardener also helps to make it softer. It also becomes more sticky in the first phase.
  10. While on the electrical engineering side the Linux world is quite well equipped with KiCAD and several other very good tools I'm afraid the mechanical CAD side is only just beginning to grow... Blender works perfectly, but is no CAD system. Still very useful for modelling! OpenSCAD and FreeCAD are your choices. Probably anything else in a VM, just like it always was. I know the problem and indeed CAD- and Photo work made me setup a powerful Windows machine again. After several years on Linux it is still feeling wrong.
  11. 85€ it was because "the box is damaged". Well it was. But the only damage I could find was the shipping labels and stuff taped onto it when sent to the first customer. They should know better by now. But in the end I don't care about boxes and am very happy with the price I paid. The parts are large, casting quality is not what I'd expect on first glance with such an expensive plastic kit, but I know Franzis quality never was worth its money, so I was prepared for that. It will get stowed away and probably will be built when my son is old enough and interested. Being a working model this should be quite educative. Ah right, haven't postet much here since I'm a dad. I only upgraded my family status in January
  12. Splines are usually 3d curves. I have encountered this issue as well. I don't know how to stop fusion using the wrong plane when beginning a spline. Had that issue with other geometries as well in complex models. Whenever editing a spline make sure your view is locked to one of the base planes or to the plane you're working on. This way you move the points only on the plane you're seeing.
  13. If the material is metal take it as is and re-tap as M3. If it is plastic drill out quite large, glue in a round, carefully redrill this. Or fill up with 2k epoxie and redrill. You might even epoxie the screw in place. Or epoxie a threaded rod in place and secure the part with a nut. Many more ways possible.
  14. I have one little thing that disturbs me (just a little, to be honest): The heat shrink tubing on the fuel lines is lettered. Coming from an electrical background it is just too obvious to me this is "just" heat shrink. I personally would have gone for a piece without markings. You know, I just needed a reason to post, and I hate to post without offering some critique. I had to search for something... Outstanding work, and as always so much to learn. I am very glad you share your tricks in such detail. I bookmark all your builds for reference for a reason. Stay safe, Jan
  15. Pure gold. I really miss white metal miniatures.
  16. AFAIK these are ceramic coated. I have seen some real ones on the bug eye which are usually white on the real rally cars.
  17. Most of these pieces are exact Copies of Lego parts. Even the electronics...
  18. I successfully polished white metal wargame miniatures in the past with a brass wire brush on a Dremel. The rough and matte surface became very smooth and shiny. Not sure if this is good enough for your required surface, but probably worth a try on an unseen piece.
  19. Offered my service, but didn't want to advertise too much as I'm not a business. If you need something printed in resin I can probably help out.
  20. No idea what this is about, but interesting start and nice thinking / stragegy. I'll follow.
  21. Or you can get a poster-print of your picture. Not too expensive these days. Some printshops offer large scale prints around here for reasonable prices, and places that offer photobooks usually also offer poster prints.
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