Jo NZ

WnW still exists, with recently filed info. See https://app.companiesoffice.govt.nz/companies/app/ui/pages/companies/2141181

I'm not sure why. The resin is so brittle that about all that would reasonably survive is the hand grips. If they are worried about replica guns, you can buy these in airsoft versions. I suppose that you could print in metal, but I really wouldn't want to trust a metal printed barrel....

Or spray into a ziplock bag, and use a pipette. If you zip it up it does last a bit longer. Incidentally the first Camel Yellow was Vauxhall Cargo Golden Yellow, if you need a reference...

If Richard really gets his way, it will be a McLaren that Chris Amon drove....

Here are the plates (from my Pocher build photo archive - I collected over 1200 pictures and still couldn't find details....)

I have just stalled on the Heller JS11 too. Replaced the 15" rear wheels with 13", but for the life of me I can't work out how to produce a new rear upright that will fit inside the 13" wheel.... (doing this in CAD, btw)

Apparently not..... Thought I recognized it from years back. Currently on a blue Rolls Royce ! Can't remember whose it was, but Raymonds Revue bar rings a bell somewhere....

Unshrunk tubing might work. Just don't leave the model in the sun....

A little bit more progress. The hub knock-offs are quite intricate. The photos I have show some of the outlines, but not well enough to copy from. Luckily I came across this ..which is a match for the spinners. I used that photo as a canvas, and eventually got to here The engraving can just be seen at 1/8 scale. I did try photographing them, but my old Canon G7 can't bring itself to focus... Now all I have to do is knock them about and simulate peeling chrome plate.

Absolutely stunning build! I was working in the aerospace industry at the time, with a load of thermal engineers who really understood cooling. They looked at it, did a few quick calcs, and decided that you'd need something the size of a double decker bus to dissipate the heat via surface radiators. Nice idea, but when the car designers worked out the area required they must have lost a couple of zeros....

When I used to repair FF chassis (not made by Arch though) I used BMC Farina grey. There wasn't much colour difference in chassis greys across all manufacturers.

My bad. I knew that - putting it down to old age...

The tyres work fine on the rims, with no filler inside. I've put the tyres and magneto on Cults3d, as free stl files, if anyone wants them. They're drawn 1/1 so will scale to any size.

It's going to be kinda like the project 64 mini - but that used a 997 S as a base, BMW head and a turbo. 156 mph...

Nick - I followed your advice, removed the rings, downsized it, and then increased the wall thickness... Now, I used to be a development manager. How many times have I told developers (mechanical, electronic and software) to ONLY change one thing at a time? What did I do... So the next print was undersize. Increasing the wall thickness of the tyre from 1.3 to 2.6mm gave the resin enough rigidity to stop it stretching. After that disaster I printed another tyre at the standard % reduction (12.5%) and of course it's spot on. I haven't tried an infilll pattern in lychee, I went through a stage of hollowing out anything large in chitubox, including my first attempt at tyres. Nearly every one has leaked over a period of time. The uncured resin seems to work it's way to the surface and leave a sticky mess. The flexible resin was even worse, the tyre increased in size after a couple of days and then split. I've tried multiple drain holes too, without much success. Here are the tyres - the thin one, the thickened and reduced size one (11.12%), and at last the correct one, with a rim fitted just to prove it. All the pimply bits on the middle tyre are the remains of the supports that I didn't bother to clean off. They sand off really easily. Using the chitubox supports also worked, although I did remove or move any supports that were on the text or in the grooves in the tread pattern.

Maybe save the radiator somewhere else, delete it from fusion and see if the speed is back to normal?

Thanks Nick. I tried whatthefont but got bogged down in the multiple questions, not many of which apply to numerals. I'll try again! I printed two tyres using Siraya tenacious obsidian black - a flexible resin. Here's a comparison with one printed in Elegoo ABS like grey... A few problems: It's translucent. I could probably get over this by painting inside the tyre black. It's printed 1.3mm larger than the Elegoo print (which is the right size). The resin is very flexible, I'm wondering if the weight of resin has elongated the tyre as it's printing. Nick, I thought that your idea of printing half the tyre flat on the print plate was a good one - but unfortunately the tyre diameter is too big for the Mars 2pro. Possible solutions Make the tyre solid (uses lots of resin!) which hopefully would be rigid enough to stop the distortion. Print in black Elegoo resin Print the current tyre in the resin I used for the first effort, ages ago, which was resione F69. This is not so flexible and definitely blacker. Each print takes 5 1/2 hours, which means the experiments are a bit long winded. All suggestions gratefully received.....

Thanks Pete,, good to see that someones watching! What comes after the front tyre? The rear tyre, of course! This one is a different size, tread pattern and manufacturer, so I couldn't borrow anything off the front. This is it. It's a Dunlop B5 4.00 x 19. (in other words, 4 inches wide on a 19 inch rim) Fusion 360 doesn't like multiple circular patterns (as I found out trying to build the complete tyre) so I created a 15° segment, which fitted the tread pattern, and built all the details onto that. I've also hollowed it out, which saves resin and avoids uncured resin slowly working it's way to the surface. I needed to adjust the tread pattern to make it continuous across the joins, but once done it worked well. Note that I've added stiffeners to keep the shape And rendered... I printed both tyres in normal resin to start with. Chitubox has nearly got the supports right, but I will need to move the ones around the logos for a final print,

Who would have thought that a livery based on a sock pattern would be so stunning? I remember taking pictures at Indianapolis at Le Mans and you always go for the colourful ones. Half of my photos were the Mazda.

After an absence, due to an MX-5 wedding present, I've got back to BM. Producing the Mazda logos for the wheels and steering wheel on the MX-5 gave me a lot more confidence in using canvas to replicate emblems and logos. I've returned to the front tyre and added the sidewall detail. Probably the most time consuming activity was finding a font with a flat top 3 and a 9 with a bottom curve for the size marker! The letters are produced in F360 with the text function, extruded onto the sidewall and then cut to height with a rounded profile. I'm still not sure how to print the tyre - now I have lettering on the sidewall I can't support it there. I was looking at extending some of the tread blocks and extruding them to a curved support. Any ideas?

This looks like UU5872 which is Blower no.2, raced at LM by Birkin in 1930. It's now owned by Bentley Motors and was the the car that was scanned to produce the 12 "continuation" Blowers. So yes it is a Birkin car. Note that it was rolled in 1929 and rebuilt (as a 9' 9" chassis car) in early 1930.

Here's an idea for a diorama (copyright LAT photographic) Notice that although it has obviously ceased to proceed, it's still pretty shiny, with only the dirt and scrubbing on the tyres. Any fluid leaks will also be fluid colour, and definitely not oily black. Fluids would be changed very regularly. Something you could add are the chalk marks on the tyres, denoting position on the car 9LF, RF, LR and RR) and set number etc.

The classic brown over beige, as seen on many 70's Rolls Royces, was known amongst car dealers as s*it over sawdust. Not quite in good taste....

Regarding building engines, in the 70's I was helping to build formula Ford engines - and you start with a new Ford 1600 X-flow and strip it down. Never run, so it was all brand new. There were coloured spots of paint on the top of the block, next to each bore, and the same colour on the pistons. Discovered that this was Ford measuring and matching bore size to piston size....