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Pegguins

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  1. Hey guys, I just got the Alaska through the mail this morning and knew I had to share her. Its my first hobbyboss kit and it looks phenomenally well made. Its an entirely new tooling for 2017. Noone I contacted in the UK knew of a release time or date so I imported mine from Germany for £80. Full set of pics I have here She's pretty darn large, sitting at around 70x8 cm. The hull is a single piece with some really nice detailing added to it. In the box you get 5 sprues and one bag of superstructure parts. Two sprues of little detailing bits (propellers, lifeboats etc). Six sprues of main and secondary guns. One of funnels and AA posts. A pretty solid looking stand. Two sprues of clear pieces for some aircraft. Four photoetch frets with railings, ladders, fire directors, radar masts and more. A two part deck and some chain. Detailing is fantastic through ought and I'm very impressed with the deck; Photoetch doesnt look too fiddly to handle. There arent any particularly small pieces and all the ones that need bending look well scored; Instructions are usual Academy style with steps being very clear and pretty sparse. Although they go upto step 50 I expect someone like dragon would have it condensed into 15. Colours are given for a range of manufacturers which is nice to see nowadays. The kit looks brilliant, only slight complaint is no metal prop shafts that I can see and the medium sized AA/secondary battery could ahve done with some metal barrels. The main battery is pretty fine since it looks nice and easy to drill out, but the smaller guns are a little small for that in my view.
  2. Yea. I'm in 1 of 2 minds about that pipe. I might cheat a little and cut it off on the inside then glue it in place inside the upper hull. I think you wont be able to see that bit through the turret ring anyway so I'm not convinced it'll matter. I've got a long way to go before that though, both side skirts to put on, the frontal and upper frontal plate to get on and all the guts to go on the inside of the hull (which (I might not paint, again I'm not convinced you'll actually see them even when the turret is out of the tank.
  3. Well a week of sucess and failure. I got the final bits of the internals (well, 95% of it) painted and installed. Got the internals in and got the breaks in. Its really easy to see what the problem with thre transmission was now, you see, its somehow got twisted; The part at the back is flush against the flor, but the front is on an angle. I'm really not sure how this happened as theres literally only one way those pieces can go together (I checked back through the instructions, there are cut outs inside the peices that have to line up). Annoying but it doesnt actually matter too much as those pieces wont be seen. The real annoyance is there should be some pipes from the breaks to the transmision, but those simply dont line up so I'm not sure if I want to put them in or leave them out. You can also see the (failed) result of playing with some dust pigments there. I went a bit too heavy and used 'light' dust (thinking it meant like a light coat of dust) when infact its just super bright dust which isn't quite what I wanted. Live and learn. Also annoying is some of the paint got scraped as I put the bottom into the tank, you can see on the right hand side here a huge gouge; Thats through 2 coats of varnish which is annoying. I think its mostly fine and any patch job would end up looking more out of place than the scrape does imo. No matter what I've done, t hat back wall on the engine deck just wont play ball. Its grimey but doesnt look right at all; Luckily you really dont see the back of this once the fans and radiators go in over the top of it. Again you see the failure of the dust. ITs easy to clean up (i only used water as a fixing agent so just more water and a cotton bug scoops it right up). In general I'm about 60% happy with how things have come together throughout; Theres some extra boxes to pop on that back wall (medical kit and such), the extra shells to pop into the ammo bix down there but those'll go in nice and easily. Theres also the extra wall/support to go in behind the transmission that I'm a little worried about but I think that'll fit just fine. I'm thinking though that I might well put the hull over the top, I'm happy with this as it was fun and a great learning experience, but I think that I'm not totally happy to have it on display. In order to do that there may need to be a bit of interesting play with the exhaust from the transmission. Since that whole piece is a bit twisted I might have to cut it off inside the tank, then glue the other side into the hull to make it fit.
  4. Well, even more progress although a little bit annoying. I completed the weathering and I'm pretty happy with how it went. The engine bay especially has come out pretty much exactly as i wanted it; And the front is looking pretty good too This is just dry fitting pieces inside the hull, the weathering on the breaks isn't done yet (needs to match the transmission basically). As you can see, the bars at the front dont quite line up (I'm fine with that, as long as they're vaguely close it'll look fine once the upper frontal plate is in place, even worse though the pipes that should be on the breaks simply dont work. The one of the left as we see it goes straight through the codrivers chair and the one on the right through the ammo box back there. I've checked the instructions multiple times over but they just simply dont come even close to lining up. The plate at the back of the engine bay needs some work, only a small bit at the top is seen so I'll just putty those bits flat then paint up. I'm not sure if I'll put the cowlings that go over the top of the tracks on at this stage or later (I'm leaning towards later)
  5. Thanks Kev. Its mostly just a slow process at the moment practicing/learning/stripping and repeating weathering techniques to get it to where I'm happy. Once I've got that down I think the rest of the internals will go pretty quickly (Well, aside from putting together and painting 24 shells for the other ammo bin, thats going to take forever no matter what I do!)
  6. Yep, I got home just the other day from the usual holiday trips around family homes and finally the oils had dried. Top looks like the right hand side here; Which i think is ok as a base, but is just a b it flat. You can see in the center, and the box on the left there I've started to use some MIG products to bring it out a bit. They arent entirely dry yet, which is what the shinyness is about, but I think they're starting to look nice. I'm going to go back and put a little bit of extra blending on it to get rid of those liquid edges but I think that its pretty much how I want, I might put just another layer of the brown oily over the top just to get the engine a bit heavier than the transmission. After that, just a couple of pigments (a very light dust and very very small amount of dark earth on the floor throughout) and I think I'll be ready to pop the internals together. The instructions tell me to put the floor down, then the suspension/(torsion bars?) in which seems like an odd order.
  7. Final update until after the holidays from me. I didnt manage to get as much done as I was hoping, I've done the first layer of weathering on the engine, generator and transmission. Got the two break pads together, primed and painted the drivers+codrivers chairs (well, the metal parts of them), primed both break pads, primed the drive shaft, primed+painted the last ammo bin in the fighting compartment and put together the various little detail pieces (medical boxes etc) that go around the inside. First layer of weathering on the 3 pieces I mentioned is sort of done. I used oils to try add a greasy grimy nasty build up (going for less battered, more used and poorly cleaned sort of look you see on some mid-late war tanks in the russian front). I'm ok with the transmission, its mostly done using two shades of raw umber. The front is still a bit shiny for a reason I'm not too sure of but a final matt coat of varnish should sort that out. The engine was done pretty much the same but I'm much less happy with it; The red parts I actually quite like the contrast of, but the dark grey just doesnt seem to show up how I want. I tried adding extra, adding less, etc but it just hasn't come together for me yet; Towards the bottom it starts to look a bit better, but it feels like that much would be weird on the top of this piece. Finally I did the electric generator that I think has come out very nicely, I'm really pretty happy with this piece; Its exactly the same paint used exactly the same way as the others, but it just comes up much better against the light green. I'm not sure what to do about that, maybe use a lighter shade on the engine? At any rate, I think my family might have got some weather goodies/products for christmas for me (i put a few in a wishlist as an idea of a present for people) so maybe there'll be something there. At the moment I think that the engine needs a layer ontop of extra grime/sut/something. The electric generator can stay as is (with a little bit of dust pigments and very gentle sut pigments being added onto flat surfaces maybe), and the transmission probably like the engine but lighter and only towards the bottom of the piece. Bonus picture, I really love the way these brake pads look when primed up Not entirely sure what colour to paint them. I suspect that they're probably supposed to be red oxide, with the tubes cremeweiss, but I'm tempted to paint them in that green the electric generator is so the weathering shows up nicely on them.
  8. Fighting compartment of the 1/16 pz4 is starting to come together now. Got the 3 ammo cases for the back finished up how I like them and glued in place, the back walls and central floor area is pretty much how I want it, I'm still working on the bottom part of the floor but thats nearly ready too. Theres still some oil drying on the floor which is why it looks shiny and a bit weird, when it dries it'll deposit an extra layer of muck in a bit of a random way that should help break everything up a bit. The back is.. well its ok, but I cant say I'm overly happy back here, theres still quite a bit of work to do but I'm going to use some acryllic products (engine grime and such) to add over the top of whats here. Luckily when the back plate+engine+generator are in place you really wont see it much and if i put the radiators in over the top you barely see it at all (although, I'm still deciding if its possible to put them in, but not glued down so you can lift them up to look into the back? Experiments to be done there). Also getting onto constructing the final pieces to go into the fighting compartment, the big ammo bin that goes behind the drivers chair, drivers chair and two break systems. Painting the ammo case is going to be a royal pain in the butt. Right now I'm really thinking about adding chipping or not, I think maybe some very light chipping on handles, the front of the raised area, and the blast doors at the back/ammo box doors, but really only very little, theres already quite a bit going on and I tend to not like chipping effects much. I'm also thinking about whether to use some pigments on the floor, some russian earth (decided i feel more like painting it in eastern front rather than desert colours) sorts of things. It might just add a bit of extra texture, but it might be totally unneeded too.
  9. Thanks for the kind word Julian. I did see that when looking ahead in the instructions but I was hoping that I'd be able to put them in "free standing" as it where, so the radiators could be lifted up to look at the stuff underneath as I plan on displaying the tank with the upper part of the hull separate from bottom, so that you can see all the goodies inside (I would do the trick of cutting into the hull in a nice pattern, but I dont trust myself on that front!) so I'm going to weather the back up anyway. I had a go at a first layer of grime in the back though I'm reasonable happy with the wall, pretty happy with the floor close to the wall, and relatively unhappy with the floor closer to the camera (I wanted to try adding something to look a b it like oil spills so darkened the wash and thickened it up a bit in that area). This is just the first coat of things though, theres engine grime to go over the top, then prbably some fuel spills effects I have laying around, and maybe some sut on top, so I think it'll all blend in quite nicely when its done. Looking at the the way the dirt effect has gone down closer to the wall though, I might use that through the floor in the fighting cabin, then just put some mud effects and small bits of oil/grime near where the transmission and break pads go.
  10. First pass of weathering on the white parts of the insides are done now; I particularly like the way the white floor turned out; Got the shell cabinates done, they dont quite match eachother, but I dont think thats a bad thing when they're in place. If anything the more random is nicer to me, might well need a little more work though And finally I've been testing things out on/trying to formulate a plan for the back of the fire wall painted in redoxide Nothing I've tried looks quite right. Thinking I might just give it an all over random raw umber wash, then cover it with engine grime/sut effects. Next on the block is the floor. In the fighting compartment I'm going to do some hairspray technique together with vallejo streaking grime (looks a little like a heavier/darker raw umber) and a small amount of engine grime near where the breaks/transmission go. Weather it down with the toothbrush, then pop some muddy pigments over the top in various places. I'm probably going to use russian/heavy mud colours and make the tank a russian front rather than african front one. Also not sure quite how messy to make the transmission. I'm going to really gunk the engine/generator up, but with the transmission inside the fighting compartment its probably not going to be that grimey.
  11. Its been a real slow set of progress with this kit recently. Ill, then generally a week or two of being lazy and playing video games left me not getting too far. I had some pain when it came to painting. The cremeweiss was frosting/grainy going on some surfaces. Ended up having to sand it back down, changed thinner from tanmiya xf-20a to mr colour levelling and it fixed basically everything. First thing I did was give the red-oxide primer an all over wash (really probably more of a filter) of very dark brown to dull the colour down a bit, after that it was a pin wash across most of the surface. I made the wash from raw umber and a little bit of lamp black. The surfaces are really standing out nicely on the front; http://i.imgur.com/dxjnD1G.jpg but on the back something weird happened, the wash has shown up a whitey-grey colour. http://i.imgur.com/uHmQ2bh.jpg No idea why, I went over it with just a lamp black wash and this is the result, Thinking I'll just strip it down and try again, any suggestions as to why this happened? I havent figured out what to do with the white floor or battery yet, they're still in clean condition, I'm thinking I'll treat the white floor in the same way as I will the rest of it, but maybe going all over with the same colour wash I used on the back white plate could be nice? http://i.imgur.com/ebQLbr1.jpg After that its onto testing streaking grime. Various tests got my technique start to work and I had a go at one of the closed up ammo storage boxes. http://i.imgur.com/mSRenX5.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kIYMBdj.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/Dlt8ubH.jpg The individual streaks are showing up a little more on camera than they do to the eye for some reason, but I'm generally happy. Its just streaked with burnt umber, I did try adding a small amount of extra colours in (a little dot of raw umber and lamp black ehre and there) but it didnt go particularly well so I cleaned it off. Obviously next step is to add the streaking grime to the firewall at the back, given they're both oil paints though I assume I'll need to put an extra coat of gloss over the pin wash so my streaking doesnt wipe it away. Moving on to testing scratching methods. I had a go at using oil paints (testing with burnt umber and lamp block here; http://i.imgur.com/TATwGNm.jpg) but I dont seem to be able to get it to look quite right. I'll be testing a little extra. Finally moving onto the grease/grime build up on engine and other related items, I've figured that I'm going to try the technique used in weathering magazine, I hadn't thought to hairspray chip before. My components are painted in their colours, rather than base metal so I'm going to have to use my spare piece of styrine to test that, but as first tries I have some nice results; http://i.imgur.com/556vMZ5.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OjGN9nu.jpg Along with some failures as you can see. I think the fail is where the hairspray wasn't properly dry or the acryllic over the top not dry. The two colours are engine grime (the greyish one) and streaking grime (the greeny one), I thinned them a bit and put them through my airbrush to get a nice coat. They do say to hand brush (when i tried to use them in poast I never thought much of them tbh) and airbrushing they really dont like it (clogged my airbrush up in about 5 mins) but I think with some retardant it'll be fine. I'm thinking I'll use both, but the streaking grime can go on the floor as a thinly sprayed base coat before I put some earthy pigments over it, and engine grime can go all over the engine compartment, engine itself, electric generator, drive shaft and maybe transmission (I'm not sure on this one, the transmission sits in the front of the tank next to the driver, it probably shouldn't be too dirty, but then it would look weird if it were in pristine condition). I want to find some way to do sutty grime aswell, to put over the top of the general engine grime on the vents and walls and such near the equipment. So basically; need to test my chipping a little more. Need to figure out how to make the break system/transmission look. Need to figure out exactly what to do to the floor. After that I can actually get stuff done and its just a matter of finishing off the two break systems, building the final ammo crate (I stores 24 shells, not sure I'll actually make all 24 of them?) then put all the guts inside and we're nearly done with this part of the build.
  12. If it would help I've got the instruction booklet (and decal placements) for my meng bmpt terminator lying around if you want some pictures of them? EDIT: Just took a look, the meng kit doesnt give any markings either on any of hte paint schemes they provide.
  13. Theres a code on emodels: BFRIDAY enter it at the checkout. I cant find exactly what it does, but it seems to just be a 10% off sitewide.
  14. No more pics for now, been mostly doing the long process of painting the huge internal piece in the redoxide/offwhite/black. Primed it, coated it all in redoxide, masked up and I'm on the white parts now. I'm getting quite a bit of grainyness in the paint though, which is a bit odd. I'm using MIG-017 cremeweiss but I havent had this issue with any other paint (nor with this paint when I sprayed the ammo cabinets). I think the paint is drying in the air, leading to an unsmooth finish but I'm not entirely sure why. I'm currently thinning it about 4 parts thinner to 3 parts paint (with tamiya thinner), tried spraying on various pressures (my default is 20 PSI but I tried a range from 10 to 30, same effect). I'm using a gravity fed brush, badger 100. Could it be that the layer of paint I'm putting on is too thin? Many things to try to fix this. On the weathering front, I have a cheapy old school tamiya panther arriving some time this week aswell as some flat sheets of styrine that I'll be painting to test out the weathering techniques on. I'm especially interested in the oil techniques I havent used before, but they look fantastic. Rendering/dot matrix and using oil paints for chunky paint chips as well as testing various wash colours to try bring out, dull down and grime up various parts.
  15. Looking great so far. I was debating getting this kit at some point, think I probably will do so. I've been super impressed with takoms artillery/aa/field gun offerings to be honest.
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