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About alzictorini

  • Birthday 08/30/1967

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Woodhall Spa, Lincolnshire
  • Interests
    Aviation, Paper Modelling, 3D printing, CAD

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  1. Good afternoon BMs Been a little distracted this week by being asked a number of questions with regards to Undercarriage Indicators! This got me talking about the Manchester's indicator and pictures would suggest they had the same indicator as early Hurricanes. Take a look at this pic: I obtained the measurements from a similar gauge fitted to later Lancaster's and so went to designing the gauge in fusion 360: I made the base in 2 parts and the glass holder also in 2 parts. These were then assembled and again used to make moulds (exactly the same as in the last post above) for future panels. I sprayed these master plugs in gloss yellow (so as to keep if I need to make more moulds in the future): The dimmer switch takes minutes to print so i just print off one when required, sand smooth and paint: Here's the gauge face in Cura Ultimaker software. This is the tool which I use to transform my STL files into G-Code for my printer to act to: Once it was printed off I filled the lettering with white ceiling emulsion paint. Its thick paint allowing you to rub off excess with your thumb or finger (quick and easy) ! It fills and drys nicely: I used coloured perspex for the indication windows, simply welding in glace with my 3D pen (glue can be used also). I painted the dimmer switch black and assembled all parts: Its a nice clean gauge and quite simple to construct. For those sim guys out there it can be made operable with the addition of 4 bulbs/LEDs. Here's the completed item: Enjoy
  2. Evening BMs To finish off the Turn and Slip gauge: My gauge face needs some life and an easy way to do this is to apply my graphic as a sticker! Here's 3 faces on sticky A4 paper. These are simply cut out and stuck to the 3D printed face. I next paint over the items on the face which will glow in the dark (Radium items on original gauges). I use children;s glow paint from Amazon, any will do. The centre hub I printed off a few days ago is now assembled. Then airbrushed black. Hands and a few brass screws are applied. Then it is attached to the face. I cut out some .75mm clear plastic (purchased from ebay) with scissors and I airbrushed the glass support black. Finally, I assemble the gauge. That is a complete build, ill do the other gauges but I wont go as deep as they are all similar in construction, design and assembly. Hope you pick up some tips.
  3. Hello Malc My bad, that should say Nozzle! The .4mm nozzle refers to the aperture at the very end. The larger the aperture the faster and more rough the cut is and the smaller the aperture the finer the detail and longer to print. I use the .2mm for small items and fine writing. Im glad you like the panels, thank you.
  4. Evening BMs Its been 12 Hours and the mould is ready for releasing: Its a perfect mould, now to try it. I use a 2 part resin and usually mix in a colour. I simply added black! I next flood the lower mould with the mix. And then sandwich in the top half of the mould pressing down with pressure to force residual resin out (a sort of poor mans injection moulding). Here is the original plug (right and the new resin copy on the left). There is only a tiny amount of flashing and the holes will need reaming out but apart from that, its a good reproduction. This takes the time down from 4 hours of 3D printing down to about 20 mins. Remember when I said the the new cast takes on the texture of the original plug and finish. The item on the left has not been painted, its straight out of the mould?? Good eh? Enjoy
  5. Morning BMs Making a mould: First of all I painted my plug (the turn and slip gauge body). I find that when you make a cast from silicon, the replica takes on everything of the original, including its texture. In this instance a satin texture! You'll see what I mean later. Here's the item painted and ready: I cut out a blocker the same size as the glass would be because this will be a 2 part mould. I don't want anything coming in beyond the glass at this stage! I used a spacer I'd 3D printed to secure the blocker in place. The item I'm casting now needs positioning facing upwards and gluing to the plastic base to reduce bleed through (I use plastic magic for this). I now build a wall around the plug using Lego and pritstick it in place. I also put keyways in 3 of the corners so it will only go together one way when making the cast. I use CS25 silicone for my mould making. I do a rough calculation of the area I need to cover then weigh it out as the mix is 5/100 (catalyst to silicone). Then mix together. I start in one corner pouring from a height. Once the plug is covered, I let it settle. To prevent bleed out through the base of the Lego, I simply add weight on the Lego wall. This morning the silicone had cured perfectly so I peeled of the plastic base from the bottom. Its a good mould, very little bleed out under the plug itself. I removed the simulated glass blocker and applied Vaseline to the silicone parts of the first mould (this is so the next part of the mould does not stick to itself, ie silicone to silicone!) An extra Lego wall was added to capture the next layer of silicone. And finally, another batch of silicone was mixed and poured over the first part of the mould and back of the plug (hope you're following this). Give it 12 hours and I should have a nice 2 part mould?? See you in 12...........
  6. Morning Blimpyboy thank you very much, there is one new one there I haven’t seen. Keep them coming.
  7. Evening BMs 1st instrument to construct is the Turn & Slip Indicator (6A/675) MkIA. I designed this item a few years ago so the print was already in my Fusion 360 account. A quick refresh and a few minor tweaks before the first print. For the main body I used a .4mm nozzle and the centre hub with the ever so tiny writing, I used a .2 nozzle. Here’s the item's fresh from the print. I used Serif DrawPlus X8 to design the graphics but again its an old file so just looking and making sure the design was in order was all that was needed. I next aim to make a silicon mould so that replicating this gauge for the next project will be only minutes instead of hours (3D Printed Version). The next post will be making the mould from the above master plug and then making a resin copy.
  8. If any of you BMs live in the Lincolnshire area - The panel is now on display within Kinema in the woods, Woodhall Spa.
  9. Morning BMs I’ve been commissioned to produce a 1:1 scale replica of a Manchester Bomber Instrument panel for the RAF Coningsby Heritage Centre in Lincolnshire. When Coningsby opened in 1941 it initially operated Hampdens (which I have made a panel for also) followed soon after my Manchester’s of 97 Sqn in April 1941. I’ll take you through the process of research and how to go about the build of a replica panel. Pic of a Manchester of 97 Sqn, follow the link below: 97 Sqn Manchester As pictures of the interior of the Manchester are few, I require some good drawings or layout details to start with. I wrote off to the AVRO Museum and they in turn pointed me in the direction of these 2 drawings and a good pic from the pilots’ notes: Some layouts differed slightly but the one above is the layout I will follow. Next is to identify all the instruments. The good thing is the Lancaster which came after the Manchester had a similar layout but with 4 engines instead of 2. One item which appears different is the on/off change over switch. Manchester’s and some early Lancs (probs Manchester conversions) had this larger selector with a second lower lever. Alan Hulme came up trumps and provided the Vol 6 image which I will re-design in Fusion 360 and 3D print. Ill construct the Blind Flying Panel (BFP) and the instruments it holds first. If anyone has any good pictures or knows of links to Manchester Instrument Panel pics, please leave a post below.
  10. It's the calculator for the torpedo release, drift, speed, windage. The hampden then lit a light in the lower windscreen which the pilot would steer to. Clever bit of clock mechanical kit. The Cosford Hampden as well as the East Kirky bomber were rigged for torpedo attacks (Hampden T1s). Both planes came from 144 Sqn and came down on the way over to Russia.
  11. Nice build buddy, love Sabres in those colours.
  12. Morning BMs Find below the Instrument Panel for a BF109E-4 I made some years ago now. This one is made from card (picture framing card), paper and clear plastic from old coke bottles. For the full build you can find it at this link BF109E So, this is a Paper Card build only! The Macchi C202 was a hybrid - Card and Resin The Spitfire and Hampden were 3D printed and MDF. Enjoy
  13. Morning BMs Thanks for the support and comments, much appreciated and hopefully this will inspire someone to build their own panel. As I’ve described in a few threads now, panels can be made from card, plastic all the way to metal if required. Eduard do a small range of 1/4 size panels which frame beautifully. I will post one other build of a BF109 panel from card and paper only next. As for the Hampden bomber, it is so ugly it is a beautiful. The Hampden at RAF Cosford is to be displayed in segments so as to see inside. I hope Airfix can build a kit from this?
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