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About propforward

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    Motorcycling, Model Engineering, Scale Modelling.

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  1. propforward

    Hasegawa 1/48 Hawker Typhoon - Car Door

    Thanks! Yes, I don't want to blend it in too much - very easy to overdo that. I want lots of tone variation.
  2. propforward

    BAC Lightning F.6 Trumpeter 1:32

    I think you've done a very impressive job there. You've captured the weathered look pretty much perfectly - the paint chipping around panels is very realistic. You either know this aircraft well, or you've studied a lot of photos of the real thing. Great looking model, big thumbs up.
  3. propforward

    English Electric Lightning T4 - 226 OCU

    Another thrilling installment in the sanding and polishing story. I'm pretty much done. I'm on to polishing and rescribing now. One last problem remains: The intake ring took a beating when I was blending it in. Hoping to fix it thusly: I think it will work. Anyway, filled in joint updates: And while all that's going on, I'm trying to get the cockpit details sorted out. Turning reference pictures of ejector seats into scale versions is jolly tricky. Ummmm..............not very impressive, but with a bit of dry brushing, pin washing and some more details picked out, should look OK through a closed canopy.
  4. propforward

    Hasegawa 1/48 Hawker Typhoon - Car Door

    Hey ho, time to press on. Making a start with the painting now. Still a bit more blend coat needed on the underside. It's a bit mottled yet.
  5. propforward

    Sea Vixen FAW.2 - Airfix 1/48

    Holy moly - that is astoundingly good. Really excellent paintwork and weathering - very realistic.
  6. propforward

    Airfix 1/72 Lightning F.2A

    Excellent Lightning - nice!
  7. propforward

    Supermarine Spitfire Mk. I (Tamiya 1/48)

    That’s lovely. And now I want one.
  8. propforward

    Hasegawa 1/48 Hawker Typhoon - Car Door

    So, I got around to doing some testing with my paint mule. Ignore, if you can, some of the shoddy paintwork on this thing, but it's just a test bed. The sequence for all this was: 1. Black undercoat 2. Metallic layer 3. Hairspray 4. black base layer 5. Camo colours Then the chipping. I found the best results and easiest to control chipping were on areas where the hairspray was relatively thin. I tried using masking tape to randomly pull off some paint, and that worked to an extent - probably OK for areas like the walkway where larger chipped areas are OK. For small chips, carefully picking at the paint with a toothpick seems best. So my pics above are over the top, and have major chipping. That's a lot to do with really going at the paintwork to get a feel for robustness. I don't want to be quite that excessive on the real thing. Neverthelss - I'm fairly happy. I did try a stiff bristle brush and water, but didn't have a lot of luck with that approach. This paint is all lacquer based MRP - which I find sprays really well, and it may be too tough for the water approach. I also left plenty of time between paint layers and before chipping - deliberately as it tends to take me a while to get back to the becnh sometimes. So I decided to go for it on the real subject. Here I have applied Alclad aluminum finish over a matt black layer. I didn't feel that a highly polished metal effect was necessary for this. And after that cured, I sprayed the hairspray on. To do that, I dulted the hairspray in a small glass jar with Mr. Levelling Thinner - very roughly 70% hairspray to 30% thinner. I tested the mix out on the paint mule first, and found that it sprays really well, and dries smoothly without orange peeling, so I had at it on the Typhoon. No pics of that, but the hairspray went on well - nice and smooth, no orange peeling, just as on the mule. Now letting that cure. At the weekend - black basing and camouflage! We're moving again - but I'm glad I took the time to experiment first - I have some high hopes that I can make this technique work for me. Looking forward to trying.
  9. propforward

    English Electric Lightning T4 - 226 OCU

    Not too much to get wild about yet. Just a lot of filling and sanding at the moment. Looks a mess. And it's being more of a bear than I'd thought to get the wing roots clean, but I'm not giving up on it. Beginning to wonder if I took the right approach with the wings - I haven't read about anyone else having this level of filling. Still, this is where it is, and a I'll get through it.
  10. Wow! Fantastic build - gorgeous cockpit detail. I shall enjoy watching this come together.
  11. propforward

    English Electric Lightning T4 - 226 OCU

    OK - continuing to beat this one into submission. It's a lot of filling and sanding at the moment. The underside is starting to come along. I filled the big gaps with thick CA adhesive, then went in with some Tamiya putty, and I'm using this on smaller, final filling. Seems to work. I haven't used it before, but so far so good. The wings have some moulding faults where the undercarriage is supposed to join. This should be a hole. So I drilled that out to fit the undercarriage leg. I went ahead and glued the wings in place. I added some thick CA to the massive gap, to make the joint strong. I do wonder if I should have trimmed the wing to get a better fit, but it seemed like that would make the angle of the wing incorrect - but maybe I'll try that on the next one, see if it works out better. In the meantime, it does make it start to look a bit more like a Lightning. To deal with the wing gap problem, after squirting the CA into the gap, I went to work with this: The fine dispensing tip means you can squirt the filler right into the joint, and being water soluble you can wipe excess away with a moist cotton bud. First pass Underside I did a couple of fills, but am now leaving that to set before doing it again. The gap is filling in nicely though. So, while that is curing, I started looking at rescribing some of the sanded away panel lines. Here is one that needs addressing I used vinyl masking tape to make a scribing edge After scribing Not perfect, but not bad. I'm fairly new to this aspect. A couple of others I tried: I'm using a Mr Scriber tool, from MRP. Here it is, compared to the Tamiya tool (top) They both work pretty well, but that MRP tool makes for a nice fine panel line, and is easy to control - although I need thicker tape. Anyway - that's where I'm at. It's all filling and more sanding right now, but it's moving along. Kind of tedious and painful, but necessary to get the kit into shape. There is hope!
  12. propforward

    Hawker Typhoon Mk.1b Car Door Hasegawa 1/48

    You have a nice gloss finish on your paintwork for your decal application - may I ask what are you using as a gloss coat? I ave been using MRP gloss finish, which I am liking a lot.
  13. propforward

    Hawker Typhoon Mk.1b Car Door Hasegawa 1/48

    Excellent weathering - just the right amount in my opinion. Nicely worn, I like it a lot.
  14. propforward

    Hawker Typhoon Mk.1b Car Door Hasegawa 1/48

    Looks stunning, great to see the piccies!
  15. Holy buckets, this is an impressive build - well all of them are. Love what you're doing with your 1/48 there, very nice indeed. Not sure about that gap with your new wheel well. Are aries expecting that gap to be filled by a piece of undercarriage door or something?