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srkirad

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Posts posted by srkirad

  1. #04/2024

     

    Kit originally started for the 2023 "Leopard tank" STGB here on Britmodeller, but unfortunatelly at that period of time my modelling mojo went deep below the surface, so I've finished it just now.

     

    - Painted with Tamiya acrylics

    - Weathering done with artistic oils and MIG pigments

    - Headlights are made from Kristal Klear

    - Rotating light on the turret was simulated with Molotow Liquid Chrome marker overpainted with Tamiya Clear Orange

     

    leopard1a5-020.jpg


    leopard1a5-021.jpg


    leopard1a5-022.jpg


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    leopard1a5-040.jpg


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    leopard1a5-042.jpg


    leopard1a5-043.jpg


    leopard1a5-044.jpg


    leopard1a5-045.jpg


    leopard1a5-046.jpg

     

     

    Cheers,

    Srđan

    • Like 24
    • Thanks 1
  2. Exhaust and cockpit are finally merged with fuselage :)

     

    f-100d-danish-012.jpg

     

    f-100d-danish-013.jpg

     

    I've put some lead balls in the nose area as a weight, although assembling manual don't mention the need for it, but... just in case :) 

     

    f-100d-danish-014.jpg

     

    On following photos exhaust looks much more like in reality - it's tricky to capture metalizer painted parts correctly, especially when you use flash on camera.

     

    f-100d-danish-015.jpg

     

    f-100d-danish-016.jpg

     

    I have to smooth out the joins on fuselage, and then will continue with assembling...

     

    Cheers,

    S.

    • Like 11
  3. Typical UM little kit - not so hard to assemble, but it takes a bit more attention around tracks (I messed up a bit right front side).

     

    - Painted with Gunze acrylics

    - Weathering done with artistic oils and MIG pigments

     

    UM decals are notorious for being brittle, and having decal film that is very very matt, and no matter how much gloss is surface underneath them, they leave silvering very visible when sealed with final semigloss or matt varnish.

     

    I've decided to play with them in a bit different way - they were placed onto freshly applied Gauzy, treated with Gunze Mark Softener (green bottle), and then sealed with another coat of Gauzy. 

     

    This went pretty well, and in the end no decal film is visible, as well as silvering is non-existent!

    So, I could recommend this "technique" with stubborn decals, but it takes working step-by-step - Gauzy has to be freshly applied!

     

    pzkpfw38tausfg-021.jpg


    pzkpfw38tausfg-022.jpg


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    pzkpfw38tausfg-039.jpg


    pzkpfw38tausfg-040.jpg


    pzkpfw38tausfg-041.jpg


    pzkpfw38tausfg-042.jpg

     

    Cheers,

    Srđan

    • Like 19
  4. 31 minutes ago, Fin said:

    I have no experience with building armour, but this looks great and very convincing.      Apart from the Yugoslav decal is it OOB? Also, what varnish did you use? It has a nice subtle sheen.

    Thanks @Fin.

    Yes, it's completely OOB, First to Fight did great job with details.

    I've used mixture of Gunze Flat and Semigloss acrylic varnish - I always add matt varnish to semigloss when spraying final layers, because even semigloss is still too gloss for my taste, and looks overdone for the scale.

     

    Cheers,

    Srđan

    • Thanks 1
  5. Good evening mates,

     

    Today I've finished my second build of the 2024 - tiny fast build First to Fight kit of Renault R35.

     

    I didn't use kit's decals as I had aftermarket Cranky Crank set "Les Chars", with markings for R35 of Yugoslav Royal Army, used in Militar Coup, on March 27th 1941, that in the end culminated into entering Yugoslavia in WW2 (Germany bombed capital of Belgrade on early morning of April 6th 1941). Slogan "Za kralja i otadžbinu" painted on turret means "For King and Country".

     

    - painted with Gunze acryllics

    - weathering done with artistic oils and MIG pigments

     

    r35-022.jpg

     

    r35-023.jpg

     

    r35-024.jpg

     

    r35-025.jpg

     

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    r35-027.jpg

     

    r35-028.jpg

     

    r35-029.jpg

     

    r35-030.jpg

     

    r35-031.jpg

     

    r35-032.jpg

     

    r35-033.jpg

     

    r35-034.jpg

     

    r35-035.jpg

     

    r35-036.jpg

     

    r35-037.jpg

     

    r35-038.jpg

     

    r35-039.jpg

     

    r35-040.jpg

     

    r35-041.jpg

     

    Cheers,

    S.

    • Like 24
  6. After few weeks of putting weight into nose area, additional, sanding, rescribing of lost panel lines and repairing that homemade cover of instrument panel,  fuselage/wings are finally joined, and this project is slowly start to look like Lightning.

     

    p-38j-022.jpg

     

    p-38j-023.jpg

     

    p-38j-024.jpg

     

    p-38j-025.jpg

     

    p-38j-026.jpg

     

    p-38j-027.jpg

     

    p-38j-028.jpg

     

    p-38j-029.jpg

     

    p-38j-030.jpg

     

    p-38j-031.jpg

     

    Next on agenda are engine nacelles/tailbooms, which will receive additional weight in order to prevent this bird being tailsitter.

     

    Cheers,

    S.

    • Like 7
  7. Windshield is masked and glued to the fuselage...

     

    f-84g-aca-014.jpg

     

    ...while I've made first step in painting/masking of canopy.

    I've painted inner frames into white with a drop of aluminium (these frames had some kind of "pearl" white color) with a brush, freehand. Masking would take me day or two for waiting for paint to dry in order to mask all lines, so I've decided to try steadiness of my hand :D I guess it didn't turn out so bad?

     

    f-84g-aca-015.jpg

     

    f-84g-aca-016.jpg

     

    f-84g-aca-017.jpg

     

    When this is fully dry, I will mask this inner area of glass (outlined with white frames), and then proceed with standard procedure for outer frame (primer and camouflage paint).

     

    Getting nearer to the painting!

     

    Cheers,

    S.

    • Like 8
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