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srkirad

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Everything posted by srkirad

  1. Thanks for the kind words mates, I'm glad you like it. @Yg Models I've already finished 2A5NL in 1/72, back in 2018 Cheers, S.
  2. #04/2024 Kit originally started for the 2023 "Leopard tank" STGB here on Britmodeller, but unfortunatelly at that period of time my modelling mojo went deep below the surface, so I've finished it just now. - Painted with Tamiya acrylics - Weathering done with artistic oils and MIG pigments - Headlights are made from Kristal Klear - Rotating light on the turret was simulated with Molotow Liquid Chrome marker overpainted with Tamiya Clear Orange Cheers, Srđan
  3. Exhaust and cockpit are finally merged with fuselage I've put some lead balls in the nose area as a weight, although assembling manual don't mention the need for it, but... just in case On following photos exhaust looks much more like in reality - it's tricky to capture metalizer painted parts correctly, especially when you use flash on camera. I have to smooth out the joins on fuselage, and then will continue with assembling... Cheers, S.
  4. Green patches were "mismasked" on few places, so I did repair work with brush. Also, left tip tank had PRU are peeled during unmasking, so that was repaired with brush too. Finally, kit received one pass of Gauzy - it was more than enough to have perfect gloss finish. Next step is decaling... Cheers, S.
  5. I've painted cockpit details and applied wash (artistic oils), so I'll leave it for few days to dry and then continue with assembling. Cheers, S.
  6. Great job on camouflage mate, especially it was done freehand!
  7. Simply beautiful - painting is first class, and gave a kit the sense of much bigger scale! Cheers, S.
  8. Camo is done! Masking of green patches took me more than 6 hours today, but I think it was worth it. There are some patches that need additional care with green, but nothing serious. Cheers, S.
  9. Today I wasn't lazy, so I've managed to paint underside in PRU Blue (AK Real), Green patches (Gunze H303) on upper surfaces, and bombs in Olive Drab (Gunze H304) I'll leave it for few days to dry well, and then off to masking of green patches with blutack before spraying Grey... Cheers, S.
  10. Good evening mates, I'll join with another braillescale from Revell - Tiger II Ausf. B Cheers, S.
  11. Chassis is painted in black with Mr. Surfacer 1500 Black, while floor area of a cabin color is still to be determined. I've painted seats in few shades of leather-like color. Cheers, S.
  12. Instrument panel is given as a decal, so I've positioned it and sealed with a layer of Gauzy. Cockpit and tail wheel area are painted in Interior Green. Cheers, S.
  13. Wheel bay, windbrake and doors are painted in Yellow Zinc Chromate... Cheers, S.
  14. Typical UM little kit - not so hard to assemble, but it takes a bit more attention around tracks (I messed up a bit right front side). - Painted with Gunze acrylics - Weathering done with artistic oils and MIG pigments UM decals are notorious for being brittle, and having decal film that is very very matt, and no matter how much gloss is surface underneath them, they leave silvering very visible when sealed with final semigloss or matt varnish. I've decided to play with them in a bit different way - they were placed onto freshly applied Gauzy, treated with Gunze Mark Softener (green bottle), and then sealed with another coat of Gauzy. This went pretty well, and in the end no decal film is visible, as well as silvering is non-existent! So, I could recommend this "technique" with stubborn decals, but it takes working step-by-step - Gauzy has to be freshly applied! Cheers, Srđan
  15. First steps are done - cockpit tub is semi-assembled, seat got an upgrade in form of Extratech PE seatbelts, and whole inside area got a shot of primer (Mr. Surfacer 1200 and 1500 Black) Cheers, S.
  16. Today I did the preshading with Gunze Tire Black Cheers, S.
  17. Thanks @Fin. Yes, it's completely OOB, First to Fight did great job with details. I've used mixture of Gunze Flat and Semigloss acrylic varnish - I always add matt varnish to semigloss when spraying final layers, because even semigloss is still too gloss for my taste, and looks overdone for the scale. Cheers, Srđan
  18. And the primer is on - Mr. Surfacer 1200 Cheers, S.
  19. Good evening mates, Today I've finished my second build of the 2024 - tiny fast build First to Fight kit of Renault R35. I didn't use kit's decals as I had aftermarket Cranky Crank set "Les Chars", with markings for R35 of Yugoslav Royal Army, used in Militar Coup, on March 27th 1941, that in the end culminated into entering Yugoslavia in WW2 (Germany bombed capital of Belgrade on early morning of April 6th 1941). Slogan "Za kralja i otadžbinu" painted on turret means "For King and Country". - painted with Gunze acryllics - weathering done with artistic oils and MIG pigments Cheers, S.
  20. After few weeks of putting weight into nose area, additional, sanding, rescribing of lost panel lines and repairing that homemade cover of instrument panel, fuselage/wings are finally joined, and this project is slowly start to look like Lightning. Next on agenda are engine nacelles/tailbooms, which will receive additional weight in order to prevent this bird being tailsitter. Cheers, S.
  21. Canopy masking is finished - I've used new white Tamiya masking tape, as it is pretty stretchable compared to usual Kabuki one. Next step should be primer, finally getting nearer to the painting stage! Cheers, S.
  22. I've painted exhaust nozzle with Alclad Stainless Steel over grey Mr. Surfacer, and then did some shading of nozzle "feathers". Camera couldn't capture effect very good, but this area will receive some more weathering in some of later stages... Cheers, S.
  23. Windshield is masked and glued to the fuselage... ...while I've made first step in painting/masking of canopy. I've painted inner frames into white with a drop of aluminium (these frames had some kind of "pearl" white color) with a brush, freehand. Masking would take me day or two for waiting for paint to dry in order to mask all lines, so I've decided to try steadiness of my hand I guess it didn't turn out so bad? When this is fully dry, I will mask this inner area of glass (outlined with white frames), and then proceed with standard procedure for outer frame (primer and camouflage paint). Getting nearer to the painting! Cheers, S.
  24. Hello mates, will join with Airfix 1/72 kit of P-51D.... ...but will use aftermarket decals instead of kit ones - I plan to do the "Tornado" nicknamed NMF bird, based in Japan in 1948. Cheers, S.
  25. I took care of exhaust area - Aires resin exhaust and turbine were assembled together, and necessary modifications to the fuselage were carried out. It needs now to be primered and painted, and then I will take care of cockpit area (modifications to accommodate cockpit tub. Cheers, S.
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