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Bullbasket

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  1. Thanks Matt. That's two references for me to track down although this one seems more readily available. If it does contain cockpit and wheel well detail, I'll order it. Thanks again. John.
  2. Thanks for the info and the offer Magpie. I'll see what I can find. John.
  3. Because Seawolf was an early Centaur, and because Tamiya had decided to depict a B/C hull, there was no need to alter the engine deck hatches. The only changes I made were to the grab handles. These were removed with a scalpel blade and replaced with brass wire. To be perfectly accurate, most of them could be left as moulded as they were the type which sat flush with the deck when not in use. I think that it was just the two on the armoured intake cover that stood proud. Tamiya give you a separate central hatch cover which is where the header tank for the coolant sits. Eduard cottoned onto this and included on their etched brass set for the Cromwell, a header tank. I assembled this and fixed it in place along with some stretched sprue and copper wire of various thicknesses, to simulate he piping. (Strangely, they didn't do the same for the 1/35th set). Stowage bins. Once again, Eduard include parts for the three bins. These consist of the top, the lid and the front. The ridging is produced by running a ball point pen along the marked lines. All of the detail on the kit bins needs to be removed with a sharp blade and cleaned up with a sanding stick, before super gluing the Eduard parts in place. Once in place, then the latches can be attached. I left the two right hand bins in the closed position, but I depicted the left hand bin with the lid open, which then meant filling it. To do this, I folded up a piece of pewter foil to represent a blanket along with some tins of food made from plastic tube with lids made out of circles of punched out thin card. The compo boxes were just a couple of pieces of 80thou card scored across the middle to represent opening flaps. Once painted, they would have decals applied to them. To make it a bit more realistic, the lids were made so that they didn't sit flush and I bent the corners up a little. Also seen in these photos are the double tow ropes carried by Centaurs. Oh, don't you just hate those Tamiya cast metal lower hulls!!! John.
  4. As somebody who stopped building aircraft more than 10 years ago, I'm thinking about taking the plunge again into things with wings. Although over the years I've sold off all of my kits, there was one that I wouldn't part with because I still wanted to build it. It's the LTD 1/48th scale kit of the Commonwealth Boomerang, but I have virtually no info on it. What I want are drawings/photos of the cockpit and u/c bays. The kit is very vague in these departments. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I will be very grateful. TIA. John.
  5. In a former life, when I used to build things with wings, I did most of my painting by brush. In all honesty, I got more enjoyment brush painting, but there again, aircraft are easier to brush paint than armour. I found that the best paints for that method were Humbrol and (showing my age now), Compucolour. Thinned to the right consistency, and with a good brush, I could get a nice smooth finish. But I take my hat off to you for doing it this way on armour. It's looking good so far. John.
  6. I'm glad that somebody dragged this one out of the past otherwise I'd never have seen it. Superb paint and weathering job. John.
  7. I've just seen this for the first time and I have to say that I'm gobsmacked! That is a truly amazing model and in such a small scale. I admire what you've done with it. Brilliant. John.
  8. Hi Etienne, After bending all of those small handles, I hope that you still have your sanity! Have you got a bending tool or just pliers? Anyway, It's a good start and I'm going to keep watching this build. John.
  9. Thanks Etienne. Very nice of you to say. John. Thanks Francis. Appreciate it. John.
  10. Most of the IDF M1's had the VVSS units with the upward sloping trailing arms and Dragon's items are a good starting point but could do with some improving. There ae twelve separate parts to each unit. At least Dragon supply the road wheels with backs to them unlike the hollow Tamiya ones and they also have the three bolt heads at the bottom of each unit which are missing from some makers kits. The later, plain pattern of drive sprocket was the most common one found on M1's. Dragon's sprockets come in four parts. There are four ways that the units can be improved. First, the track skid is a bit on the thick side. I thinned the leading edge down by scraping with a blade and cleaning up with a file. Second, the four retaining bolts for the track skid are missing, so I replaced them with heads using a punch and die set. The units weren't handed, so therefore could be fitted on either side of the tank. It just meant that the trailing arm could be bolted to the front or the rear. Whichever face it was bolted to, the opposite had four bolt holes in it. Where the rear trailing arm attaches to the unit there should be another four bolt heads, but before I fixed them in place I glued a thin piece of card (6mmX4.5mm) there to cover the join line which would have been nigh on impossible to get rid of because of where it is. Next up, the tracks. John.
  11. You've got several IPMS branches within travelling distance of N.Essex including Clacton, Colchester, Chelmsford as well as some in Suffolk. Click on this link and it will give you a complete list with contact details. http://ipmsuk.org/ipms-network/ipms-uk-branches/ John.
  12. Great looking model. The weathering is especially good. Nice one. John.
  13. Good start. Good luck with trying to paint that interior. John.
  14. Thanks both of you for the comments. John.
  15. Thanks Phil...appreciated. John. Thanks Nick. I hope it will be of use to you. I'll hopefully post some more tomorrow. John.
  16. I had built a couple of Cromwells in 1/48th scale, so when it came to doing a Centaur, I wanted it to look a bit different and not just another Cromwell with perforated tyres, so I decided upon "Seawolf" of the RMASG. This is also the one that I'm doing in another WIP but in 1/35th scale (I will get around to it, one day). Seawolf was one of the early Centaurs with either a B or a C type hull so there would be no need to alter the engine deck hatches. But it would necessitate new front and rear track guards and sand shields. The first job was to make a new armoured front hull plate. There's nothing wrong with the one in the kit apart from the fact that the drivers visor is moulded shut and I wanted mine to be open. To do this meant cutting out the visor and it's hinges from the hull which obviously trashed the kits hull plate. The new one was made from 40thou card. A hole was cut into the right side for the visor and a round blanking plate glued in place on the left side where the BESA gunners position is on a Cromwell (not used on RM Centaurs). Before I glued the plate in place, I added some bolt heads to the blanking plate, filed notches on the top in front of where the periscopes would be and glued the visor hinges in place. In the Hauler etched set for the Cromwell, they include a couple of brackets for the cables to the small side lights. I super glued these in place and ran wiring to the lights using 10amp fuse wire. The left hand light is actually a piece of shaped sprue as the kit part was eaten by the carpet monster! The other part that I glued in place was the latch that holds the crew side hatch open, from the Hauler set. I cut the track guards on a line level with the vertical front hull plate. Some of the plastic was removed from the inner sides and then they were glued back in place only now at a sloping angle. This resulted in a gap which I filled with card and blended in with filler on the left hand side. There was no need on the right as it would be covered by a stowage bin. The new front track guards were made from 10thou card and glued in place. Tamiya supply the crew side hatch as a separate item, but it's moulded in the closed position. So I separated the hatch from the hinges, glued the hinges in place and then reattached the hatch in an open position after first detailing it with a wire handle and some etched brass from the Hauler set. Unfortunately, I don't have any photos of the hatch at this stage, but it can be seen in finished photos. Missing on all of Tamiya's Cromwells and Centaurs in both scales, are the five bolt heads just behind the left side crew hatch. These were made using a Historex hexagonal punch and die set. Eduard supply the mesh to go over the engine air intakes. Incidentally, anyone doing a waterproofed Cromwell or Centaur should leave these off as on the real thing they were blanked off. I've seen a couple of photos of Centaurs with rear track guards that appeared to have been fabricated from plain sheet metal. Whether or not Sea Wolf had this feature, I couldn't tell, but I thought that I would include it, so I removed all of the mouldings from the kit parts and then glued them in place. Being and early Centaur, it had the original shaped exhaust box, ie; the rear sloped downwards. So I carved the rear portion off. The mesh for the top that comes in both the Hauler and Eduard sets proved to be too narrow after the exhaust box modification, so a new one was made using etched mesh from Accurate Armour. Before fixing it in place, I added two exhausts from the spares box as they would be noticeable by their absence. The mesh was glued in place and then a frame made from 10x20thou strip was glued around the perimeter. In this photo can be seen the two smoke candle holders which again came from the Hauler set. I've run two short lengths of plastic rod from them to represent the electrical cables. Other items from the same set are the two attachment brackets for the Porpoise sled towed by RM Centaurs and the latch on the first aid box. Finally, the two white blobs that can be seen on top of each final drive housing, are the oil filler plugs made from stretched sprue cut offs. Right, off now to do some more work to my IDF Sherman. John.
  17. Nice job on the wooden boxes. It gives them a very antique look. John.
  18. This is beginning to look as though I'm trying to monopolise WIP's, with three on the go at the same time, but there's a reason for starting this build thread. Nick and Nick were interested where I got my wheels from for the 1/48th scale Centaur, so I thought that I would explain the whole build at the same time as describing how I made the wheels. I actually built this model a couple of years ago so I won't be starting this thread off with the usual photos of the kit's sprues etc. When Tamiya produced their Cromwell in 1/48th scale, I like a lot of other people thought that they would do the same as they did with their 1/35th kits and produce a Centaur, but for some obscure reason, they didn't. To produce a Centaur from the Cromwell kit isn't difficult apart from one thing......the wheels. The dimensions are the same, but the tyres are perforated. There approximately 30 holes around each tyre and the thought of drilling those on all twenty wheels, let alone getting each one equidistant from the next, filled me with dread. Some people have done this conversion and taken the easy way out and used the wheels from the Crusader kit, which is all very well but the Crusader's wheels are much thinner in profile. Without going into too much detail at this stage, I'll just say now that to overcome the wheel problem I used the tyre from a Crusader on a wheel from a Cromwell. All will become clear later. Regards, John.
  19. Yep, Airfix, Scale Models and Military Modelling. Some are photo copies and are a bit faded, but the 1/76th scale drawings are crisp and clear. If you want to give me your postal address, I'll get them off to you. I don't build in anything smaller than 1/48th these days, so they are just taking up room in my files. In the mean time, as you are building the Thorneycroft at the moment, do you want me to scan it and email it to you? Regards, John.
  20. Well, going by what I have to hand at the moment, they are as follows; Bedford OX & OY, Thorneycroft Amazon WF8/NR6/Coles Mk.Vll Series 7 (now there's a coincidence), Albion CX, Austin K2, K3 & K6, Morris Commercial, Crossley 6x4 Derrick, Austin K5, CMP C60, Crossley Q, FWD 4x4 cargo, Ford CMP, Guy Quad Ant FAT, Commer Q2, Guy FBAX, plus others. There is one good article on building an RASC Workshop diorama from a 1982 Airfix magazine. All of these are based on conversions from Airfix truck kits. Regards, John.
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