Totally Mad Olivier

Hello Sam, hello to all, I have considered it would be useful to post this photo from the 806 Gangshow on the Mef' forum, about the nipples. For the courageous ones who will decide to re-spoke and "re-nipple", if I may say Olivier

Dear John, yes, I appreciated very much Thierry's (Crazycrank) help for the problem of the cables and connectors. On his suggestion (in a MP), I found in a network cable 0,65mm diameter PVC tubes in different colors, including red, which is the color I'd like for my cables (in the lack of information, I prefer it like that than in black). About the nipples, I send another photo of Mef' wheel, that shows nipples should be very small (1,15 mm lenght, and just a little larger than the spoke). Hope this will help you to decide what to do about these nipples: the best would be to do little ones, but I think it's better doing nothing than doing too big (IMHO). Very friendly Olivier

Super, merci Thierry, là, je dois filer mais je vais débriefer avec attention ton dernier post, très intéressant. Par contre, c'est quoi, ton MP?? Pas trouvé ton lieu de résidence, du coup... Encore merci Olivier P.S: About the nipples, another argument: do you see nipples on that wheel Fiat 806 enlargement? That said, I will probably do very little ones, probably with my flowable lightcuring resin, just to say there are some... Model making learns to watch with care, it is a human tendance to exagerate things. Meanwhile, it is true that on some other cars, there are bigger... Regards to all Olivier

Hello Sam, Yes, this solution seemed to me more simple than Andi's one (maybe I'm wrong). You can count about 16 hours to make the 4 wheels (I said 12h but was too optimistic...) It is much easier than for the radiator grille, because, for this, there were very little spaces between the strips, and necessity to have very parallel bars (maybe I begin to be trained, too...) About the nipples, I won't do them. First because it is ever a big job to make the 72 spokes (72 x 4 = 288 spokes...), but also because, if you have a precise look at the Mefisto wheel (see on your great Mefisto forum), they are nearly invisible, so discreet, and I experimented to make so small nipples unsuccessfuly. That said, Andi, banny, Triumphfan and VT nipples look good, I just find them a bit oversized compared with the main reference we have for this Fiat, which is the Mef. Olivier

Merci Thierry je suis allé regarder ton superbe topic sur la Bugatti T50 Pocher et j'y ai trouvé le tuto sur la fabrication des connecteurs. Ils sont super, surtout avec la 1ère méthode. Souvent,les connecteurs sont surdimensionnés, mais là, c'est parfait. Reste à les réaliser à l'échelle 1/12, encore plus difficile qu'au 1/8... J'avais pensé aux feuilles d'étain, comme matériau, qu'en penses-tu? et sinon, quelle épaisseur pour la feuille d'alu, 0,5mm? plus? J'ai beaucoup aimé aussi les câbles, qui ne sont pas trop gros: je suppose qu'ils étaient fournis avec le kit. Je me demande toujours ce que je vais utiliser pour les câbles, un diamètre de 1mm me semblerait idéal, mais je n'ai pas trouvé des tubes PVC de 1mm sur le Net. Si tu as une suggestion, elle sera bienvenue... Au fait, tu habites où, en France, si ce n'est pas indiscret? Thank you Thierry I've been looking your great topic on Bugatti T50 Pocher and I found the tuto on the manufacturing of connectors there. They are great, especially with the 1st method. Often, connectors are oversized, but there, it's perfect. 1/12, even more difficult than in 1/8 remains to realize them in the scale... I thought using tin foils, as material, what do you think about it? and otherwise, what thickness for the sheet of alu, 0,5mm? More? I also liked a lot cables, which are not too big: I suppose that they were supplied with the kit. I always wonder what I am going to use for cables, a 1mm diameter would seem to me ideal, but I did not find tubes PVC of 1mm on the Net. If you have a suggestion, it will be welcome... Best regards Olivier

Thank you Jeremy, very kind. Do you have a precision about the aluminium tubes (diameter, where to find them, ref....). I was thinking using tin foils, it is another possibility (I've got that). What is Roy pseudo on the forum? I don't see exactly what you mean by "thread wrapped wires"... Are they PVC tubes? Anyway, thanks again, your reply ever helps me Regards Olivier

A question for Steve (or someone else, cause I see much of you did approx. the same): the little connectors are they scratch or is it possible to find them? if it's scratch, how do you proceed to make them? Other question, about the wires: what did you use? PVC? other? what diameter? I was thinking using 1mm tin wire... Thanks for your help. Kind regards Olivier

Hello guys, here is an alternate method to re-spoke. Andi's one is more elegant but too difficult for me... I use the same Aber 0,4mm wire than for the radiator grille. It will be a long work, about 12 h approx. to do the 4 wheels... Olivier

Hello Sam, On this photo (screen capture of the Torino's Fiat museum Mefisto), it seems to be 70 spokes. Good courage! (I must begin soon my spokes on the 806 and I wonder if I'll build this Mefisto... Happily, for this one, no radiator grille... ) Olivier

Dear Andi, really sorry but I think you don't need to worry: even by enlarging the image, your works still look great (maybe even better!). You're right, one more time, I have problems with translation and so, of comprehension of what you did to get this, very frustrating... Sam, help!! Andi, you recall me another model maker for whom I have a great admiration: Juan Manuel Villalba, specialized in airplanes, (I love aircraft model making too...) author of great books, DVD (I had the honour to make the subtitles french translation for the next one that will be published soon). Like you, he spends a lot of time to add little details creating an amazing and very personal result, a unique artist. But I would like you to explain more how you get them (and in good french, if possible ) Best regards Olivier

Hi Sam, thank you for your kind appreciations. I agree with you, without any document, impossible to be sure a piece was like this or like that. So, the best is to do personal choices, as we feel. For the copper tubes, I had seen both colors on the topic, brass and copper, and I preferred this last solution, keeping brass for the plugs. For this copper, I used AK True Metal, usable as with airbrush as with paintbrush. 116D, 117D (and not 117E as mentioned in the instructions), 118D and 103C were painted with Silver SM01 Super Metallic. A question for Andi: how did you get this great relief on the flat end of 116D and 117D? Olivier

P.S: I was not happy with my electric sleeve, too large, and finally, I used Italeri's PVC tube, just painting it with Vallejo flat black.

Hello to all, this is where I am now. I preferred copper than brass for the tubes. Sorry, the legend is in french... Olivier

Ok Sam, have a nice stay at Istanbul and study closely when you're back. You'll tell me what you think... Olivier

Hello Sam, If there are only 36 spokes on the Mef' kit, same as 806, take a look at this photo of the Mef' exposed at Torino (internet) : to my point of view, there are more than 36 spokes, at least 60 (I count approx. 5 spokes x 7 on half the wheel, which would mean around 70 spokes). It's the first time I hear about inflating the tyres. I wonder how it's possible. Anyway, on the 806, the tyre is wrong (too squarre, a bit too large and sculpture wrong too), Protar's one were better but, for an unknown reason (I have asked Italeri but no answer...), they provided the Mef's ones. In such conditions, I don't see the interest to inflate the tyres (they should seem even larger, no?) on the 806. My intention on the 806 is to re-spoke (if I have enough patience) but I wonder if you should not do the same on the Mef'. Tell me what you think? Kind regards Olivier

Hmm... well, John, I think we will go on in english... But thank you for your good will! In fact, you are better for model making than for speaking french

Hello John, thank you for that hint, I didn't notice that (true that, as the forum is in english, it's a long time for me to read everything..). Very interesting to see your solution, very good, and Andi's one (photo just above yours), very good too... I am now on the 13th step and another problem appears... (definitely, this 806 is not a model for beginners...). Did you meet the same? Kind regards Olivier

Thank you Sam for your kind compliments and encouragements Yes, I will certainly decide to build this kit, I don't know yet if it will be the next one, but I am sure your excellent tutos will be very helpful. I know Jeremy preffered a lot this kit compared with the 806. While, I take a lot of fun with the 806, despite the many defects. I love the design of the 806 (a bit more than the Mefisto, very nice too...) I imagine both cars side by side in a nice showcase, great! A question: are the wheels exactly the same (36 spokes) than on the 806? (I know tyres are the same) Thank you for my floor, it is not too bad, but if I had seen your great tuto before, I am sure I tried to do the same. I will the day I build the Mefisto... Yes, I like to share and explain, but you too!! and you spend time to add legends and arrows so that things are as clear as possible... Model making is really a fantastic hobby, long life Britmodeller!! Olivier

Hello to all, difficult to put photos after Andi's one... My 12th step is over, still problems to resolve at every step. On the 12th step, there is a mistake about the PVC tubes: you must use the C one and not the B as written on the instructions sheet. Anyway, I did not use the C which is bright and used mat electric sleeve. 116, 117 and 118D and 103C were painted silver with SM01 Super Metallic. Other problem, the pin is touching a lot 118D, so the rod is not straight (see photo). I made a correction on the pin to decrease the contact, but it's not perfect. Grrr... Olivier

Hello Sam, as you said you were working on the Mefisto engine, I had the idea to see if there was a forum about this car, and I fell on this. You really made an amazing work, hats off! If I decide to make the Mefisto after the 806, your job will inspirate me a lot. I love particularly the floor you made from wood. I was quite satisfied of my 806 floor (using the Italeri photoetched part) but, now I see your great floor, I can go to hide! Definitely, this Britmodeller forum counts in its rows sacred talents Olivier

Andi, this is really mind-boggling!! You are the Monet, the Renoir, of cars model making! A question: did you make the trestles or, if not, where did you find them? Hats off, anyway...

Hello VT, the good cast effect on the engine is very easy to get: I apply first XF1 acrylic and then XF16 ENAMEL (this one is difficult to find but you get it on Amazon marketplace, from Hong Kong and it is very good). I always work at 1 bar max with my Harder and Steenbeck airbrushes. The coat of XF16 is very light, to get the cast effect. About the plug leads, I fell on an old article of the french magazine MPM (Maquette Plastique Magazine) about the Protar kit, published in 1981, in which the author seems to be very sure that they are red, but I don't know how he was so sure. In the doubt, In the doubt, I think I will do them flat red (electric wire)...

First of all, thank you for your compliments and encouragements. Sam, if you knew how I regret not to have a better English to understand perfectly all the pics! I am a lover of nice language (in french) but I couldn't notice how Andi's speaking was so poetic (he has many talents, definitely!). I look forward to see new photos of Andi or everyone's building. I saw your Mefisto floor, it is great, so natural... What are you making at this time? A question about the cables going to the engine: what colour are they, do you have an idea? I don't think I'll use Italeri's cables, not very realistic... Andi, could you join photos of your engine finished in détails, please? All the best to all Olivier

Hello guys, I made corrections on the cylinders head ends (87C) by subtraction (blade) and by adding dental lightcuring flowable composite resin (layer by layer) and now, I consider the problem fixed. However, I will try to add little details using the document Andi posted. A hint: wait the end of 13th step to cement the gearbox, because the rod is very thin and fragile, and the numerous manipulations (for example when you must insert PVC tubes on 26 and 27E cemented on the engine) require strenght that could easily break that piece (I speak about it with full knowledge of the facts...) Have a nice evening Olivier

Hello Sam, Andi and all, happy to see Andi is stiil with us. Thanks Andi for this document (I got it but forgot to read it once it brings useful informations. Unfortunately, you often use english expressions that my translator (and me !) don't understand. For exemple, for "the part is heavily buried into the build when completed" or "it just sort of soothed a jangled nerve that the kit left me with", if you could see the french translation with Reverso, you would understand what I mean... I understand this forum is mainly english, but I regret to lose a good part of your interesting comments... Anyway, you seem to have very good skills on mechanics, what I don't have unfortunately. But I will do my best to get a correct reproduction of these cylinder head ends... At what stage are you now? Sam, who is VT? Vontrips??