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Olivier de St Raph

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Everything posted by Olivier de St Raph

  1. Funny, Harvey, the batteries charging, while I will soon have to do that with my next « green » car... Cheers, O
  2. Dear Jeroens, I apologize for my build turning very quiet and I thank you very much, it is good to read that I miss you a bit. I have been very busy these last weeks and I must admit that I have lost a bit of motivation (the challenge is so high with every step). I suppose it is normal to need a break from time to time. But be sure I will be soon back again at my workbench. In this fall of motivation, the disappointment with my 3D resin printer, unable to print correctly the air deflector, is an element. But I am actually studying to choose my next car (that should be an electric one...) and this takes me the few free time I have (as in model making, I am unable to go fast ). All the best Olivier
  3. That's right Jeroen, and our hobby is not particularly better for our backs. I try to work out a bit to compensate... I think we are quite a lot in this case, Harvey. About the NHS, I know it is not a reference in term of medical care system, but the french one is not so much better
  4. Here I am back again after a few days of holiday and then some other days very busy and with a new episode of low back pain (not over, pity...). With the frequent neck pains, that's a lot for one man. A standard exchange of my whole back would be a good thing, definitely! Because of all that, the update is very limited and is about the rubber joint around the outside handle: Cheers Olivier
  5. In the next days, I will be in holidays and so far from my workbench. I will try to take advantage of this free time to begin reading the books (one in french, one in english) I bought about how to (try to) master Fusion 360.
  6. I was wrong mentioning Microset, it is in fact MicroSol that I used (I have edited my post above to do the correction). And I confirm that MicroSol didn't help in that occasion. But it is not its fault, there was really a big problem with the combination Holi Laser paper/ LDF. Though, I must say that, after the previous failure, I had applied 2 coats of LDF, was is definitely a bad inspiration. I have just printed again the lettering on the Holi Laser decal and applied this time a light coat of LDF. I hope this will decrease the folding of the edges. And, as I said above, I should cut every letter and digit very carefully, removing all the clear film possible. If I still have problems with the clear decals, I will order a new LDF can, as, unlike what I said (I confused with another Microscale product), I don't know when I bought this LDF (it must be quite old as later, I have taken the good habit to precise the date on the cans for many products). Thanks to both of you Harvey and Jeroens for your suggestions anyway Cheers Olivier
  7. In the post# 667 above, I explained how tricky had been the decal job. As I had to redo it on the left door, here are the problems met and the way I tried to solve them as I could: N.B: the MicroSol, instead of improving the adhesion, increases the folding... I think I will redo totally one more time this decal job, not really convincing. I will probably cut and place the letters one by one, removing the clear film very closely...
  8. "Happily", one half deflector could be correctly printed, allowing to check dimensions and angles, by comparison with the real car ones:
  9. The Clear decal job has been (and is still for the left door) very tricky. The print on Inkjet paper (with an Inkjet printer) was poor, with too much ink, whatever the option of paper and quality I could use. The print on a Laser paper (using a Laser printer) was much better, but here, the problems arrived later, after applying the decal. The latter tended to be folded on the edges, with a very low tack. Using Micro Sol, instead of improving the result, made it still worse. I thought I would turn mad with these decals. I even considered I would finally use the wrong AMT lettering, but this option was really frustrating. Well, I finally could get this result (acceptable if not perfect) at the price of great efforts of patience: P.S: very tricky too the 3D print of the air deflector I designed (in 2 parts, in and out) with Michael: The resin printer failed in printing correctly these objects. I asked the Anycubic support but no reply up to now... I will probably use traditional scratch approaches for these parts...
  10. Waaoh! Antonio, your build is just great, and your photos too, especially the ones of your posts# 31 and 34. Very impressive composition with the blades turning. Hats off my friend, first for the modeling work (what a beautiful weathering!) and for the PS work! You are an artist, definitely! Cheers Olivier
  11. When Les suggested yesterday that the lettering was too tall, I was not at home. Back again at my workbench, I needed to confirm he was right. I made these measures and used one more time the rule of 3 (nearly all what I remember in maths ). I could so determine that Les was right, my lettering was about 10% too tall (5,5 instead of 4,9 mm). I noticed another important fact: the writing is not parallel to the body line: Of course, I will take all that in consideration. Thanks a lot Les, you avoided me an error. You often need an outside eye, and that is why I consider that I get as much as I give on Britmodeller. Hannes, Harvey, Crazy Crank, Roy, John and many others, at a moment, have so avoided me wrong ways. The occasion to thank again all great modelers who helped me so. A big thought too to Juan Manuel Villalba, who, out of Brit, learnt me so much and so avoided me many errors too. Olivier P.S: I could determine that the best size in Word to get the right lettering size was 20,5. I found out at this occasion that I could use a value between 2 whole numbers.
  12. You seem to be right, Les, and I will try the 21 size instead of 22, that should probably be better. But it is difficult to be sure with the photo I made because the writing is on a different support (paper) placed over the door. I am not sure I understood very well your other suggestion about the Ford script. The idea of taking a photo seems interesting. I could then lighten the color in the MacBook Photo parameters. But I would prefer to avoid removing the AMT decal that is very difficult to remove (I experienced that with the stripes on the hood). This means that I would have to place the lighter Blue decal over the other one, what supposes they are exactly the same size. I am not sure this light color difference justifies such a delicate job. Well, anyway, I will remember the suggestion for another time. Olivier P.S: I take advantage of your post to thank you warmly again (I did it only my PM) for the samples you kindly sent to me.
  13. I am gonna try to represent better this inscription using Microsoft Word and my Clear virgin decals. I will have to do several trials before finding the right character font and the right size... Here are below on other angle views the writings on the side. The "Ford" one, like the "Official" one, should be imho in a lighter Blue than what the AMT decals suggests. But corrections on the latter would be too challenging, I will leave them as they are, as a compromise. Edit a bit later: N.B: you must read « font » and not « front » in the label, of course... Edit still a bit later: I have printed the inscriptions « INDIANAPOLIS 500 » and « PACE CAR » (same parameters) on the Clear Virgin decal sheet. Here again, several trials have been necessary in order to have the best result possible. Indeed, if I chose « mat » or « semi gloss photo paper », there was too much ink, and if I chose « Gloss photo paper », there was not enough ink. The best result was obtained choosing a normal paper in high quality.
  14. In the post# 659 above, I showed that some aspects of the inner door area had to be improved: These improvements are now visible: the front panel has been completely removed and replaced by a new one, that closes the gap. The lower and front part of the door has been rounded. The handles, too short, have been redesigned and replaced:
  15. Hello Les,

     

    I got yesterday your great samples. Thanks a lot, they will certainly be useful very soon!!

    If you need anything, don't hesitate, it will be my pleasure.

     

    ATB

     

    Olivier

  16. N.B: - the state of surface, but also the shape of my handle is not yet satisfying, it will be improved using my home made precise sanding tool ever mentioned above (in the post# 642, among others). - for now, the best option to represent the rubber joint is imho to use a very narrow tin wire... I managed to design on my own the lock in Fusion 360, using the Revolve function:
  17. Thanks Roger and all for your kind comments. It is the attention to detail that made me do the merciless comparison below. The door lenght is the same, but the handles and the armrest are too small on my build, meaning that I will have to redo printing and post printing modifying the scale: N.B: the measures were done on my computer, only for comparison, they are not real dimensions (fe, my armrest is currently 9,1 mm and not 12,3...). This comparison shows also that, despite the correction I made above, the junction inner door/ front panel must be improved (gap), what will not be simple... Cheers, O Edit several hours later: I was right saying the handles are too short but I was wrong saying I should simply modify the scale. Why? because the support has the right diameter (or nearly so). Only the rod must be extended, especially on the door opening handle (+ 50%), as the comparison below confirms: When we designed with Michael these handles, we took care of the shape and not enough to the dimensions. It is a fact that I missed precise dimensions for these handles (because Bernard has not the same ones, see above). I see Michael this morning and I hope we will succeed bringing the necessary corrections on these parts. As for the armrest, I checked with Bernard's measures (that arrived a bit too late, while I had ever designed it), only the lenght should be extended of 9%. I consider I am here in the error margin (less than 10%) and only for one dimension, so I will probably keep it as it is. And as for the outside door handle, despite the 3 hours spent, several improvements must be brought. It was a challenge (that we couldn't raise not using the Create form mode of Fusion that Michael doesn't master well) to get the rounded shape of the latter. But we can anyway do better, especially increasing the thickness of the rod, as it will be easier for me to remove than to add: Olivier Edit February 24: here is the new design of my handles. I think I can say they are now very close from truth: The parts have been 3D printed. The problem with the opening door handle is that it is still more fragile (always as narrow but longer...). I had problems because of that with the print (several supports necessary) but also with the necessary sanding job (several parts broken). I will ask Jean-Paul (my dental technician) to do the print on his side and to make a metal part from the printing. Waiting for such a metal part, here is what I could get with resin:
  18. Thanks a lot for your kind comments, mates! I just spent 3 hours with Michael to design the outside door handle. I thought it would be easy... I was far from imagining it would be such a challenge... The design is not perfect, I will have to round some portions, but it is anyway much better than what the AMT kit offers: For this design, we worked directly with Bernard's measures (1:1). The reduction to 1/16 will be applied downstream, in the Photon 3D slicer. The door handle lenght on the real car is 16 cm, which means that it should be 10 mm at 1/16 (the AMT part is 12 mm (20% too long): Furthermore, this is the left door handle, I forgot to ask Michael how to get the left one (mirror mode). Roy, do you know how to proceed to get it easily with Fusion? ATB to all, thanks for watching and encouraging Olivier P.S: 1) Les, very kind to send the samples anyway! I owe you one... 2) Thierry, do you feel better my friend?
  19. Les, I don't know if you ever sent me the package for me, but finally, I used adhesive leather to represent the felt around the window: Double sided tape was very useful for this delicate step, allowing small corrections. On the other hand, cyano was used to glue the 2 parts of the door. All the best to all, and thanks again to Les for his offer of help Olivier Edit after dry fit assembly: Definitely, things are never simple with this build...
  20. Among the specific Indy 500 Pace Car features, there are these handles, missing on other Mustangs as far as I can see: On the other hand, it is very difficult to say if there were front seat belts in this Pace Car. The restored version is equipped with nice red (like the armrests) ones. But on the period photos I have, impossible to confirm... P.S: new (and last) update for the antennas. This new subset will be stored with care until it will be glued on the body:
  21. Hello Les,

     

    you very kindly offered to send me some of this elastic thread you mentioned in the forum. 

    I give you my postal adress:

    Dr Olivier Pansieri

    868 route du violon

    83600 Les Adrets

    France

     

    Of course, I can pay the postal shipping. Just tell me...

     

    All the best

     

    Olivier

    1. Lvp

      Lvp

      Olivier,

      I would be glad to forward that to you.

      Also, I just found some flat black material that I think will be even better. Almost miniature felt that is self adhesive.

      Originally used to stop windshield squeeks on the second generation Lexus GS300's.

      Always good to snoop around the parts department to see what might be useful for the hobby world.

      Regards,

      Les

    2. Olivier de St Raph

      Olivier de St Raph

      Ok, Les, I trust in you, if you think the latter option is better, you can send it to me.

      Very kind, I appreciate a lot your help!

       

      ATB

       

      Olivier

    3. Lvp

      Lvp

      It's on its way.

      I have no idea how long it takes to get there however.

      One can never have too many resources👍

  22. Thanks a lot chaps for your kind comments and "likes". About the antenna support, I have chosen to edit the post with updates along the way, what allows to see the developments in the elaboration, a way to do that I ever used above sometimes and that I could use again. This means that, if you want to see the end of the elaboration, you will have to return on the post# 642 above. In this instance, I just made a new update about the antenna lenghts and the left support... That's a kind offer I accept, Les. I will contact you by PM about that. I wanted to try using painted black blotting paper, that could give maybe a perception of felt at 1/16 scale, but other options - like yours - are probably better. I want to say a word about the 3D approach. You probably felt in the last pages that the latter was taking a increasingly large part of my build. It is true, I have fun designing my parts with Michael and, even if my printer can't reproduce all the incredible détails that the Fusion 360 CAD software allows to get, I think I would have been definitely unable to represent as faithfully the handles, the armrest, the antenna support with any other approach (what doesn't mean that a high skill modeler like Harvey, fe, couldn't). As I ever said, I am very glad with the resin printer, that not only gives a very acceptable accuracy (a good surprise for an entry level machine that costs less than 400€), but more, allows a quite easy sanding job because the resin, once hard, remains quite soft, a bit like the resin detail aftermarket parts (the sanding job is imho much more difficult and the results more uncertain with FDM printers). I am not holding shares in the Anycubic company, but I can only recommend this machine to any modeler searching for accuracy and easy post processing. Of course, I will go on using also craft techniques (as for the window gap elements, fe), but the CAD/CAM will be probably for me the best option for many parts, such the pedals, the outside door handle, the windscreen wipers, the air deflector etc. and, why not, maybe the windshield, that AMT represented much too thin. This new approach has another advantage, substantial for me: it preserves me better from neck pains. Because of my pro activity (dental surgery), in which I permanently use powerful (x4) magnifying glasses and work frequently in difficult conditions (at the bottom of the mouth) on a living subject (sometimes very lively ), such pains are very frequent. And working again with magnifying glasses on details for hours and hours reinforced a lot these problems. I remember I had to stop frequently when working on the wheels spokes or on the radiator grille of the 806, with awful headaches requiring painkillers (not always very effective). It was the same when I made the job on the inlet slots with such a craft approach. When Daniel (dbostream) suggested the 3D option, I was far from imagining that, a few weeks later, I would design my parts and print them like I can do today. Every build has learnt me a lot and opened new perspectives, it is the case again with this one. In conclusion, the 3D approach represents for me certainly not a universal panacea, but just another way to get the best final result, what I summarized in the short sentence: "Only the result matters" I added under my posts, meaning that I will use, for each situation, the option that sounds better to me. All the best to all, thanks for watching and helping Olivier
  23. I have now to represent what we have inside the window gap. I post again this photo that shows the several coats: Question: front limit of the 0,15 mm Chrome rims? do they stop at the air deflector level? so the answer is yes. Now other question: where is precisely this level? I could ask Bernard but I can't disturb him every day. I have chosen to measure it on this photo, using (as often) the rule of 3: Now I know that I have to represent these narrow Chrome rims with a 56,45 mm sheet (only the top will be visible). I have decided to use a 0,2 mm (instead of 0,15) acetate sheet. 4 items of 7 mm x 56,5 mm are cut on this acetate sheet, and then painted Chrome on the edge: I have not yet decided how to represent the spongy look of the black felt between the Chrome window and rims. Any suggestion?
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