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Olivier de St Raph

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Everything posted by Olivier de St Raph

  1. Hello Les,

     

    you very kindly offered to send me some of this elastic thread you mentioned in the forum. 

    I give you my postal adress:

    Dr Olivier Pansieri

    868 route du violon

    83600 Les Adrets

    France

     

    Of course, I can pay the postal shipping. Just tell me...

     

    All the best

     

    Olivier

    1. Lvp

      Lvp

      Olivier,

      I would be glad to forward that to you.

      Also, I just found some flat black material that I think will be even better. Almost miniature felt that is self adhesive.

      Originally used to stop windshield squeeks on the second generation Lexus GS300's.

      Always good to snoop around the parts department to see what might be useful for the hobby world.

      Regards,

      Les

    2. Olivier de St Raph

      Olivier de St Raph

      Ok, Les, I trust in you, if you think the latter option is better, you can send it to me.

      Very kind, I appreciate a lot your help!

       

      ATB

       

      Olivier

  2. Foreword: When I have begun this project, I had a lot to learn about this legendary car that I had decided, very lately (I was about to build another legendary Ford, the T model), to construct. I just knew that I loved her unique and dynamic design, and that I intended to build a red Convertible version, like the one belonging to the father of one of my good friends... I even didn't make the difference between the Coupe and the Fastback versions, what would lead me to order the Fastback 1/24 Revell kit, while the conversion to a Convertible would be much more easy from a Coupe. It may be added that I preferred a bigger scale, and the 1/16 AMT Coupe kit became so an obvious choice, despite its old age... I realized a bit too late this first error, and had to send back the Revell kit... The reader will notice that in the first month, I would change my mind several times, especially about the rims and about the precise version... That is why in the first pages, I was focused (among others) on the right red color to apply, while I would finally, in these last days, about 1 month after the beginning of this topic, change my mind and decide to build the Wimbledon White Indy 500 Pace car version (post# 128, p. 6). Only fools never change their mind, and so, I must be very clever ... The follower who will begin reading this topic will find out pages and pages these changes coming into my tortured brain... I apologize for that and I thank you for your comprehension Olivier, August 12, 2018, edited August 21. ......................................................... Hello to all, After the P-51D Mustang "Missouri Armada" (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiC583-lpffAhUMWBoKHRkuDhEQFjAFegQIAxAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.britmodeller.com%2Fforums%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F235029538-missouri-armada-p-51d-mustang-documents-and-partial-scratch-from-the-tamiya-148-kit%2F%26page%3D6&usg=AOvVaw2HEzwyc5X_PoQETuwmBkj9), here I am, back again, for a new Mustang project, but in the vehicles section this time . I love the Ford Mustang Convertible in her vintage version of about 1965, especially in the Red color. But, very curiously, there is not a single kit, at any scale, of this wonderful and legendary car: This photo shows a Ford Mustang 1965 that belongs to the father of a good friend of mine, and I am going to go and meet him - he doesn't live too far from me -. He kindly sent to me a few photos of his amazing Convertible Mustang, exactly the one I'd like to represent. Of course, I will complete these photos by many other ones I will do when I meet him... There are a few kits of the hard top one, but I clearly prefer the Convertible. So I decided to buy the quite recent Revell 1/24 kit, and to modify it to get the Convertible of my dreams: I would have preferred a bigger scale, but the only proposition one is the old and probably quite poor AMT 1/16 one: I should get tomorrow the Revell kits (I bought 2 sets on the Conrad site, considering the low cost of this kit, and in order to have replacement parts in case of problem). For info, the 2 sets are less than 40€ including shipping... I hope this build will get followers interested. Cheers Olivier P.S: before beginning this new thread, I have checked in Britmodeller if someone had ever built this Convertible vintage Mustang but no, no one did that. I just found this in the Ready for inspection section, a fastback version build from the same Revell kit, by MikeGTC: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=14&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi0iIGgwpfcAhXIvRQKHeW2CewQFgh8MA0&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.britmodeller.com%2Fforums%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F234986065-revell-1965-ford-mustang%2F&usg=AOvVaw23A8SlcekIQQb2BDMrigX_ Mike used a Torch Red from Zero Paints. Originally, the Mustang in 1965 could have 2 kinds of red color, the Rangoon one and the Poppy one (the Mustang of my fathers' friend is a Poppy Red version): I will have to choose the version and to try to get an authentic one, a first challenge... The Torch Red Mike used seems to correspond rather to the Rangoon Red. Very nice but I think I prefer the Poppy Red, kind of Coral color that I love...
  3. Thanks a lot chaps for your kind comments and "likes". About the antenna support, I have chosen to edit the post with updates along the way, what allows to see the developments in the elaboration, a way to do that I ever used above sometimes and that I could use again. This means that, if you want to see the end of the elaboration, you will have to return on the post# 642 above. In this instance, I just made a new update about the antenna lenghts and the left support... That's a kind offer I accept, Les. I will contact you by PM about that. I wanted to try using painted black blotting paper, that could give maybe a perception of felt at 1/16 scale, but other options - like yours - are probably better. I want to say a word about the 3D approach. You probably felt in the last pages that the latter was taking a increasingly large part of my build. It is true, I have fun designing my parts with Michael and, even if my printer can't reproduce all the incredible détails that the Fusion 360 CAD software allows to get, I think I would have been definitely unable to represent as faithfully the handles, the armrest, the antenna support with any other approach (what doesn't mean that a high skill modeler like Harvey, fe, couldn't). As I ever said, I am very glad with the resin printer, that not only gives a very acceptable accuracy (a good surprise for an entry level machine that costs less than 400€), but more, allows a quite easy sanding job because the resin, once hard, remains quite soft, a bit like the resin detail aftermarket parts (the sanding job is imho much more difficult and the results more uncertain with FDM printers). I am not holding shares in the Anycubic company, but I can only recommend this machine to any modeler searching for accuracy and easy post processing. Of course, I will go on using also craft techniques (as for the window gap elements, fe), but the CAD/CAM will be probably for me the best option for many parts, such the pedals, the outside door handle, the windscreen wipers, the air deflector etc. and, why not, maybe the windshield, that AMT represented much too thin. This new approach has another advantage, substantial for me: it preserves me better from neck pains. Because of my pro activity (dental surgery), in which I permanently use powerful (x4) magnifying glasses and work frequently in difficult conditions (at the bottom of the mouth) on a living subject (sometimes very lively ), such pains are very frequent. And working again with magnifying glasses on details for hours and hours reinforced a lot these problems. I remember I had to stop frequently when working on the wheels spokes or on the radiator grille of the 806, with awful headaches requiring painkillers (not always very effective). It was the same when I made the job on the inlet slots with such a craft approach. When Daniel (dbostream) suggested the 3D option, I was far from imagining that, a few weeks later, I would design my parts and print them like I can do today. Every build has learnt me a lot and opened new perspectives, it is the case again with this one. In conclusion, the 3D approach represents for me certainly not a universal panacea, but just another way to get the best final result, what I summarized in the short sentence: "Only the result matters" I added under my posts, meaning that I will use, for each situation, the option that sounds better to me. All the best to all, thanks for watching and helping Olivier
  4. I have now to represent what we have inside the window gap. I post again this photo that shows the several coats: Question: front limit of the 0,15 mm Chrome rims? do they stop at the air deflector level? so the answer is yes. Now other question: where is precisely this level? I could ask Bernard but I can't disturb him every day. I have chosen to measure it on this photo, using (as often) the rule of 3: Now I know that I have to represent these narrow Chrome rims with a 56,45 mm sheet (only the top will be visible). I have decided to use a 0,2 mm (instead of 0,15) acetate sheet. 4 items of 7 mm x 56,5 mm are cut on this acetate sheet, and then painted Chrome on the edge: I have not yet decided how to represent the spongy look of the black felt between the Chrome window and rims. Any suggestion?
  5. Only the result matters...

  6. By adding the armrests, my inner doors are finally over. Here is, below, what AMT provided as inner door initially. It was a patient and long job to get mine...
  7. Thanks to Bernard, I have all the necessary measures to represent as well as possible the antenna support. I will design it with Michael this morning: The most difficult is to represent the longer portion on the side of the forward wing: Next step: printing of this support in 2 copies (I recall there were 2 antennas on the Indy 500): here is how the part appears after printing, cleaning in a US vat with Resinaway and 2mn under UV light: The main problem with 3D printing (for today, anyway) is the state of surface, even if it is better with a resin printer than with a FDM one imho. In order to get a smoother surface, a delicate sanding job is necessary. I cut with a 3,5 mm diameter die round portions of sanding paper (here, 800 grit, but next with 1500 and 3000 grit) and glue it at the bottom of a flat ended instrument with a tiny drop of cyano: As I am going to end the antenna subset, I thought I could measure approximately the lenght of the 2 antennas, the right one being generally longer than the left one on the period pics, as on the one below. My right antenna will be about 1100 mm: 16= 69 mm (the antenna, totally deployed, is much longer). And the left one will be about 37 mm. I noticed in the same time that the left support is really different than the right one, with a dome shape. It seems to be made of satin black plastic. Logically, I should modify the 3D printed one and give him this dome shape (the most simple option as my Rivets dies do not exceed 2 mm width, while the support should be about 2,8 mm).
  8. Olivier de St Raph

    Fiat 806gp full-scratchbuild 1:12

    Incredible, Harvey, as always ! Cheers, O Hannes, really sorry to read you lost (very temporary, I hope) your right eyesight. I wish you a fast recovery.
  9. Study for the armrest: I tried to design this armrest with Fusion. Well, it is not perfect and I will need small corrections by sanding, but I did it: On the restored Indy 500, the armrest is red, over a Chrome support: In the lack of certainty (I have no period pic of this area), I decide to trust in this expensive restored car. We may suppose the armrest was red too on the original car.
  10. P.S: even if I don't think he follows this thread, I want to thank warmly Michael of Crealab (St Raphael media center) whose contribution was essential to get these nice parts. It is good from time to time to turn around and see the progress ever made, even if I am aware there is still a lot to do: N.B: some subsets and parts are missing on the photos above, that were in another box, that I had forgotten. Among others, the tail lights and the calander frame patiently thinned (post# 122). It seems to me that these steps were done in another life, or at least very long ago...
  11. The 2nd trial was better than the first, but it may probably be still improved. Here is the 3st trial, using this time the white Anycubic resin (instead of transparent green), with still new supports and placement of the window handle on the Photon 3D space:
  12. Oh sorry, Harvey, but I have attenuating circumstances for this error: what you show in your thread is so amazing that I couldn't imagine you didn't use a lathe and a mill... Cheers, O Edit a bit later: great new, my friend, I have got your package! this black leather looks very good and will probably be useful for a next build. If you want, I can send you a portion of the grey blue suede tissue I bought (I have your adress on the envelope). Just tell me...
  13. Here is the result of this first print: imho, the result is very encouraging and ever quite good. I could have used the parts so, improving them by adding a bit of resin (flowable composite, Revotek LC or BS) but I am going to try to get a better result by improving the Photon supports: Here is how I placed the supports for this first try: N.B: now that I begin to be a bit more familiar with the use of this resin printer, I can say that, if you are a bit organized, it is not so messy, finally. And I have fun with this new tool (it is a kind of resin cooking ). More, the resin may be used many times and is so not very expensive. And the results are very promising, under condition your design is good, of course.
  14. possibly nicer indeed if we compare with an entry level printer like mine, but I am quite sure the results would be still much better using a high level printer such the Formlabs Form2 (the quality of the resin is probably another important parameter that affects the results). As I said above, I could ask my dental technician (who's got this machine) to do the print for me, but: - I want to see what I can get with the Anycubic Photon I bought - I am a bit embarrassed to ask him (he is very busy) even if I know he would do it for me - I am aware not many modelers can buy such an expensive 3D printer (from about 3800€) and I want to show it is possible to get nice results with an affordable 3D printer.
  15. Hope so too, Roy. Indeed, I could see the great results Harvey and Thierry (CC), among others, could get using (with talent) lathe and mill. Having no such tools myself, it would be impossible to scratchbuild such small parts with the same level of accuracy. Even if I have no experience of lathe and mill, I agree with you, I think 3D printing is a good (and new) alternative, especially if like me you don't mind working with resin instead of metal. It is surprising for me that you are interested (and ever quite competent) in CAD with Fusion 360 without considering the possibility to 3D print. But I respect your personal reasons.
  16. With Michael, we spent about 1h40 to design these 2 handles. I will try the printing very soon. Will my entry level resin printer be able to represent every detail on such small parts? We shall see, but one thing is sure: I would have been definitely unable to get such convincing handles with scratch techniques.
  17. Thanks a lot Harvey ! (and thanks to all for watching and « liking ») It is clearly an advantage not to need painting, not so much for the job required, but mainly for the look, imho better if the tissue may be remained unpainted. In this instance, the colour of this suede tissue, luckily, matches indeed very well and much better than my previous painted version. You don’t have to apologize for the problems of shipping, I again thank you very much for the suggestion and for the package you very kindly sent. This morning, I have been working with Michael (of the St Raphael media center) on Fusion 360 to get nice and accurate door and window interior handles. Indeed, even with Roy ´s tuto, I was unable to do the job alone (too difficult for my beginner level). When I said working with Michael, I am not honest, as he made the job (I just saw him working). I am not at home now, but tonight, I will post the files and, if possible, 3D print them. I can already tell you that I was very enthusiastic leaving the media center. I had prepared this rdv backward taking the best measures possible on the close-up photos above (thanks again to Roy for this video of the unrestored Mustang in the junkyard). Cheers, O
  18. More, the hue is much better too, if I refer to the restored Indy 500 (I was very lucky to find a suede tissue that matches so well): Edit 1/2 hour later: N.B: Harvey’s package with the wafer leather is still not arrived to me. When I get it (?), I will compare it with my suede tissue, but I think I found exactly what I wanted.
  19. Hello Harvey,

     

    I am surprised, I still didn't get your package. I hope it will arrive by the end of the week.

     

    Cheers, O

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Olivier de St Raph

      Olivier de St Raph

      Don’t be peeved, Harvey, I suppose the package will arrive very soon now. But I confess I have had the opportunity to go yesterday in a specialised tissue shop and I found a nice stretch dark grey blue suede tissue. I bought a big portion (1 m x 0,5) for a bit more than 5€. I will soon post an update in my thread with this new carpet, that should look much better than the thick felt.

      The most important is that you suggested the idea of such a tissue.

      But I am sorry for the trouble this caused to you.

       

      Cheers, O

    3. Olivier de St Raph

      Olivier de St Raph

      P.S: don’t you swim? :D

    4. harveyb258

      harveyb258

      I haven't been swimming for years. I used to be a very good, strong swimmer in my youth, but sadly, my heart and lung disease prevents much in the way of physical exercise.

       

      I'm pleased that you managed to find something and look forward to your update, my friend. At least you've got a good stash of the stuff, now. I can't apologise enough for the delay, though.

       

      Cheers, H

  20. Anyway and pity, I myself don't have precise dimensions for these handles (I only have for Bernard's car ones). I will use your tuto and maybe your link, basing me on photos (different angles) to adjust if necessary the dimensions. As you know (you are much more qualified than me on Fusion), it is possible to modify dimensions without redoing the whole job... Thanks a lot again for your help! Cheers, O
  21. Waooh, Roy, that’s a pretty good window opening handle! I agree with you, considering the small size, it is not necessary to represent the knurled knob. Could you send me by email the stl file please? Of course, I will try, following your tuto, to do the same by myself. My yesterday evening printing had to be redone because of an unwelcome power outage in the neighborhood. The printing was finally 35 mn and here is the result, after rinsing the parts in a bath of Resinaway (US vat) and a few minutes under the UV lights: I look forward to see the result of the whole handle with Roy's file... Olivier
  22. I have tried to design the support of the handles (pity I am not competent enough to design the full door and window handles) on Fusion 360, basing me on the capture screen below for the shape and on Bernard's measures: We can see that the supports are nearly the same for the door as for the window handle. So, I am now printing with my Anycubic Photon 9 items (I only need 6 - 3 for each side - but I prefer to have a bit more). The printing is on, I hope the result will be good for parts that are very small (28 mm for the biggest diameter). It takes 25 mn to print. It would be my first own 3D CAD CAM modeling creations (the inlet slots were designed by Daniel (dbostream). Btw, are you still following the thread, Daniel?
  23. I had ever begun scratch building the handles using photos and measures of Bernard's car ones (happily only the opening door ones for now) when I found out that I had 2 different versions of the latter in my library: Roy, in the post# 386 p. 16, brought a very interesting video from which I made several screen captures, and especially this one: The ultimate proof is brought by this close-up from the photo above (post# 613): The restored version, definitely conform to the original, will be imho a bit more difficult to scratchbuild because of the handles shape (conical support, more rounded shape of the rods...). An opportunity to use CAD/CAM?? Of course, I could consider that the different shape of these handles are really a detail and go on with Bernard's version, but in my quest for truth, it would be a compromise difficult to accept.
  24. I am still suffering quite a lot with this ... renal colic, but I could though go on a bit and apply my square rod. I was a bit disappointed by the Chrome effect I got, but happily, the Molotow LC is here, and I must admit that, if it was not the best option for a big part such the bumper, it is great for use with a fine paintbrush in quite thick coat on narrow portions such the letters FORD on the hood or, in this instance, the long square rod. I will apply the Molotow on the right door tomorrow (I can't keep working more than 30 mn for now). P.S: 1) not yet got Harvey's package, I will certainly get it on Monday. I have, in the meantime, decided to order blotting paper. Painted Flat Black, it could be a good option to represent the felt joints around the window (see the photo on my post# 502, p. 21). To try... In fact, the state of surface of the blotter paper would be probably quite good to represent also the carpet, but pity, it is not stretch (the felt was not really so, nevertheless...). I look forward to see Harvey's material, hoping it will satisfy the specifications for a convincing carpet (I have great trust in Harvey, and so, if he says it should be fine, it should indeed). 2) to have an idea of the job done on this inner door, see the original AMT part in my post# 447, p. 18. Edit Sunday morning: I have applied the Molotow on the right side, but also applied a second coat on the left one. So, the Chrome effect should be enhanced compared with the result of the photo above. That said, the final result with the Molotow (after drying) seems to be a little lower compared with the immediate look, great, when you apply it (in quite thick coat, I recall). It seems that the contact with air tends to decrease a bit the incredible look you get first. Though, the Molotow remains, as far as I know, the best option to do such a job with a paintbrush. It has imho no equivalent in this instance.
  25. Thank you both, chaps! Pity, the improvement is more than slow for now... No problem, Harvey, I am sure I will get it today or Monday at the latest Thanks for this suggestion, Harvey. I had myself first thought to such an option (I have often used the tin wire as material in my previous and current build). If it was a 1/24 scale one, I would have accepted it as a compromise, but at 1/16, I think I must try to represent a more square section like it is on the real car. It is true that it is a bit harder to negotiate the curves (less than for my embossment, though, imho, the latter needing small cuts) but I remain quite confident, because the Evergreen is quite soft in such a narrow size. More, imho, it is difficult to get a convincing result with tin wire on quite straight portions because of the high softness of this material (I experienced that fe with the backseat beads, see my post# 377 on p. 16). I admit though that this method may be a good compromise for a more simple job, even if I am not sure the tin would give the same "Chrome effect" than the combination TS-14/ Alclad Chrome. I know the X22 method, and I ever used it (imho, the Hobby Color acrylic paints and Gloss are still a better glue than the Tamiya acrylics ones - I could never open some of them after use because of that and I suppose I am not alone -) but in this instance, because of the curved portions, I prefer to use the cyano. It is not necessary to put many drops, they can be spaced of several cms on the quite straight portions. The (tiny) drops will be closer in the curved portions. Well, for now, I finally just applied the Klear Kote Gloss over my square Chrome rod. I hope the delicate step of glueing this rod will be OK... Cheers, O
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