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Totally Mad Olivier

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  1. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I come-back to my swing arm, on which, after the TS-83 coat, the Tamiya carbon decals had to be applied: What varnish will I choose, knowing that I prefer to apply it with a paintbrush? Notice that on the docs, the carbon appears rather flat on this area, about 4 on a shine scale of 10. As I want to be sure the choice will be the good one, several options are tested on Tamiya carbon decal samples: The Prince August is my choice (ready to use, water based, and good compromise flat/ satin look). N.B: there are inscriptions on the carbon lower part of the swing arm in the doc above, suggesting decals to place over the carbon ones. But on the Repsol 2014 Honda bike (as well on Marquez as well as on Pedrosa one), no inscription (I checked on Tamiya and Blue Stuff decal instructions). If there had been inscriptions, the decals should have been applied before the PA mat varnish coat... And a bit later: Now was it worth it to remove the paint and redo completely the job in order to replace the Scale Motorsport decals? For me, yes, definitely: Cheers, O
  2. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I did not achieve to remove the Scale Motorsport decals placed on portions of the swing arm. Consequently, I first tried to apply the Tamiya carbon decals over the latter, but the result was not totally satisfying (some details were lost). That is why I took a strong decision: remove completely the paint (and consequently the carbon decals...) on the swing arm with the Tamiya Paint Remover (in a US bath to go much faster). Then I applied again the Gravity Surface Primer (the Dark one GC-304 this time, as a Black coat was to come). For the Black coat, I changed and applied Gravity Anthracite Black (instead of TS-14). I applied masks (pattern method) on areas on which the carbon decals must be placed and, only then, a Gloss coat was applied with GX112 thinned with Mr Color LT. Here too, it is imho an improvement compared with the first approach, in which the TS-83 was applied on the whole swing arm, before applying a coat of Vallejo Glossy Black with a paintbrush on carbon areas. 3 successive coats (a thin tack coat and, after a few minutes, 2 wet coats) of GX112 allowed to get a nice shine: All this takes time, but imho, it is the price to pay to get a convincing result. In the meantime, I show below how I applied carbon on a really challenging area: the inside of the Upper cowl: Of course, this technique requires to have a 2nd kit. We could ever see above that having a 2nd kit is often very useful. Considering the time I spend on a build, I personally consider this purchase acceptable. Cheers, O
  3. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, Here it is. The right exhaust has got now its stripes too: Some more details included in the TS Super Detail Up set will be added soon (springs, oxygen sensors etc.). But for now, I'm gonna replace the Scale Motorsport carbon decals applied on the swing arm by the Tamiya ones, much more realistic. Cheers, O
  4. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, A new little update on the top exhaust for now, with the adding of stripes: Cheers, O
  5. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I said above that, regarding the dial, a second option would be tried. I spent about 3h on it, using Photoscape X and my Macbook tools to get a neat dial from a pic I took of the Tamiya decal, then creating a custom decal. The result is not better than the one I got with my craft approach (if some are interested, I may take a photo showing both results). Good new, I just got now the Tamiya carbon decals I was looking forward to. The pattern is much better imho than the 1/24 Scale Motorsport one, but they are very dark: We could see above that carbon parts may vary quite a lot one to the other, in pattern as in color (sometimes Grey, sometimes nearly Black). All in all, I prefer clearly these Tamiya decals, and they will be used on some parts, beginning with the swing arm, replacing the Scale Motorsport previously applied. As I was waiting for these Tamiya decals, I began to apply the shades on my exhausts. I had done trials on my 2nd kit exhausts (see above), that were not totally satisfying. I decided to follow the following sequence: Cheers, O
  6. Totally Mad Olivier
    A good suggestion, Jochen (not very kind for BMW 😉)! I didn’t know this section of BM. Cheers, O
  7. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends As I was applying the carbon on the meter dial, I noticed that the Tamiya decal 65, that represents the meter, is not really fine, due to visible pixels: The decal has though been applied, after removing with care the undesired film around. I used then Vallejo acrylics to get a better result: Dark Grey 994, mix of Tan Yellow 912 and Flat Yellow 953 and Carmine Red 908 with a paintbrush: N.B: the result, on this close-up, enhances little defects (mainly because even removing the clear film, the decal is a bit too wide and too high, requiring to be cut with a new blade to avoid the decal to spill over the dial). Honestly, at naked eyes, the result is very acceptable. Another option, that will be showed later, will though be tried, using the 2nd kit B36 dial part, and the best one will be kept. Cheers, O
  8. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, A new little update, while I applied the painting/ stocking option on several "carbon" parts: The pic just above being not so good, here is a close-up of the rear fender: This fender, like the front one, will get a Gloss Clear coat, what is not the case for most of the carbon parts, that are satin appearance. Sometimes, it is just a portion that must get the carbon effect, like on the frame: The rear fender has now got the Gloss Clear coat (Gravity GC-306): Cheers, O
  9. Totally Mad Olivier
    Dear Jeroen, It’s true that the Gravity WW is a bit grey (less though than what the last pic suggests, look at the previous pics in my last post). I could finally go on with my own WW, following your suggestion… Cheers, O
  10. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, These last days, as I got Gravity products and especially the Ford WW GC-1139, I decided to make a trial on a sample (rear wing), using nearly exclusively Gravity products (Surface Primer, paint, Gloss Clear, compounds and polishing wheels) to see what result I get and to compare it with my own WW. I decided to follow strictly the Gravity instructions of the great video that you can find in the section "How to...": https://gravity-colors.com/how-to/#1626891071388-228e93f8-a5d4 Cheers, O
  11. Totally Mad Olivier
    Dear Jochen, I expected impatiently your (funny, as always) reaction. If the 1/24 Scale Motorsport decals had just been too stark, too neat, I would not have questioned this option. But the fabric should be much more fine (the merciless shows that it is at least 2 x too big). And pity, the 1/48 is really too small. It is a pity because except that, these decals are top quality. For me, the manufacturer should offer an intermediate fabric size. We shall see in a few days the Tamiya one, hoping it will be more convincing. I know you're right, probably no one, even Dani Pedrosa and Marc Marquez, the drivers of these bikes, looking at my finished model, would notice the "wrong" carbon fabric, but I am Totally Mad, and now that I highlighted this problem, I can't help going on like that. It is always the same, and fe, who would have noticed the groove missing on the Tamiya rims? Or yet, the too flat Tamiya tyres? Or yet the too thick racing stand supports? On the other hand, I consider the result got on the front fender quite satisfying, and besides, I begun applying the same painting process on the rear one, waiting for the Tamiya decals to come soon I hope... You see, I also may be glad when the result is OK. Cheers, O
  12. Totally Mad Olivier
    Dear Steve, Really don't need to apologize my friend, I didn't take wrong your comment and indeed, a more informative info about the process I used was necessary. Now, as I went on applying my carbon decals, I had a doubt about the fabric size. I decided to do a merciless comparison: N.B: I was not long changing my mind about the question to keep or not these carbon decals (Jochen is gonna come after me again!). I will NOT keep them since I am not glad with the result... Don’t you also feel that the pattern is « too neat » on these 1/24 decals, while the carbon frame is in reality a bit blurry? They are so finally rather disappointing for me, especially if you consider their cost. The 1/24 would probably match better with an 1/6 or 1/8 scale bike. I found out Tamiya carbon decals that seem to be more realistic, it is the ref. 12682 (extrafine cross section). I say "seem" because I could only see them on my computer's screen. If some of you have a tip and or experienced another carbon decal brand, I am of course very interested. Edit a few hours later: I inserted a pic of my fender in the middle of the merciless comparison above to confirm I prefer the painting option, better even if not perfect: It would though be interesting to check with Tamiya carbon decals. I just ordered them, hoping the fabric will suit better... Edit even a bit later: Cheers, O
  13. Totally Mad Olivier
    Dear Steve, I admit I took indeed an extreme care with these decals let me explain why: - getting them requires time and patience tracing templates, reporting the latter on the decal sheet and cutting them carefully - these carbon decals are of very good quality but very thin and fragile, I experienced that when making trials (see above) - the Scale Motorsport carbon decal sheet is expensive, especially when you add the shipping cost and the unexpected custom fees, a good reason to take care and avoid waste. - the recent problems met with a Tamiya decal on the fender probably also weighed: And a few hours later: N.B: I used the Magic Decal but also the Micro Sol for this step. The second decal was placed a few hours after the first one, after the total setting of the latter. Cheers, O
  14. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I decided to apply carbon decals (I got the 1/24 Scale Motorsport, that are indeed more appropriate than the 1/12 ones) on the swing arm. N.B: I used the Vallejo 861 Glossy Black applied with a paintbrush for this step. To be followed as soon as possible... Cheers, O
  15. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks a lot, Le. Now things begin to be more clear for me. Are you sure though that I will meet the same problems with the Honda Repsol than the ones you met with your Ducati? Did you also build the Honda? You said above that the Tamiya screws should not work: Do you suggest, in addition to the slot enlargement, to replace both 1,6 mm Tamiya screws par 1,2 mm rods, that's right? Anyway, thanks again, all these tips won't fall on deaf ears. In particular, I will do a dry fit engine in place to check as you suggest. Cheers, O
  16. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks Le for these tips but I admit they are not totally clear for me. Maybe a little drawing or a pic with arrows would allow me to understand better your suggestion. Here too, I must say I don't see any defect on your Ducati chain (very very nice build, btw). It is a fact that I am far from being a specialist of bikes... In the meantime, I finished the chain build, tedious, I confirm, dear Poul: Cheers, O
  17. Totally Mad Olivier
    Did you use the same set, Le? I suppose so, reading your post. Building the chain is though not easy, especially the step 10: Your post is rather scary, I can't imagine how difficult will be the fitting! Do you have any tip to share about this challenging fitting to come? Cheers, O
  18. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I am back home again after holidays. I continued the assembly of the chain, very delicate and painstaking. Last February 12, I reproduced the TS Chain set instructions, that is why I won't reproduce them again here, but one thing is sure: if you decide like me to build this chain, you must FOLLOW THEM VERY STRICTLY and STUDY DRAWINGS CAREFULLY, because the slightest error will lead to failures or at least to waste of time. I could so get a fist section of chain: To be followed as soon as possible... Cheers, O Edit: I got today gamblor 916 decals including the one I missed (see above). Thanks a lot to him! I also got the 1/24 and 1/48 Scale Motorsport carbon sheets and the DecalMagic of the same brand.
  19. Totally Mad Olivier
    I suppose you talk about the Ford Mustang logos, don't you? Thanks, I will go seeing this site, new for me. Thanks to gamblor916, I should, indeed, without needing to order a 3rd kit just for 1 decal! I am now very far from my bench, my friends, for holidays, but we keep in touch... Cheers, O
  20. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, Before leaving, I began the chain build itself, that promises hours of fiddly job: Cheers, O
  21. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I will soon be far from my bench for about 12 days. But before leaving it, I began the chain build, using the TS Chain Set. First a close-up to show the large gear on the rear bike: Normally, if you use the Chain set parts, the bolts must not be cut. But as I keep the D5 metal part, I decided to cut them on the bottom part of the large gear: Edit a day later: Cheers, O Stop war!
  22. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks a lot, gamblor916, very good pic! I measure a width of 8,5 mm. I will try to create a custom decal from this pic... Edit later: back home after a morning of pro work, I tried to get the desired Clear custom decals using Photoscape X. But it appeared very quickly that things would be complicated because the letters REPSOL were White on a light Blue background. I had to separate both inscriptions REPSOL and HRC. For the latter, I wondered how to keep the White line around the letters: Both .png files were exported in Word. Then I had to apply the right dimensions, to print them on my Clear custom decal, to apply a coat of Liquid Decal Film. That is now done. Will I get acceptable decals? Not sure, but I will have tried, anyway. I have to wait a while before trying to apply them on my fender. If necessary, I will ask you, gamblor916, to send me your decal... And even a bit later: this first attempt didn't work, the White letters were clear. I am going to print on a White custom decal this time... 45 mn even later: pity, the last attempt with the White custom decal was not OK. It seems to be impossible to create a custom decal from a pic if the letters are White. That is why, in the lack of any reply from T2M, gamblor 916, if you could send me the decal, it would be great. I'll send you a PM about that. Cheers, O
  23. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I am just discovering now your messages. Thanks to all of you for suggestions and encouragements! Up to now, I never met such cracks despite the fact that I used several brands for my builds (Tamiya, Mr Hobby, Alclad etc.) I agree with Jochen, it is very difficult to precise what we should hear by "enamel based", "lacquer based" etc. We are not chemists… Ghost69 suggests to avoid mixing brands, but what else have I done, following Barbatos Rex, thinning Tamiya acrylics with Mr Color LT? I don't think many modelers use exclusively 1 brand, and I am not sure there is a real chemical difference between a Tamiya Surfacer and a Mr Hobby Surfacer... On the other hand, he is right about my body painting strategy. I should have first brought all necessary corrections before beginning to apply paint. And I would do things differently if I had to redo this build (don't count on me 😂!!) Anyway, the good new is that finally, my problems seem to be fixed now. It is quite a long time since I wrote my last post in this thread, but even if I was going on with the Honda build (more simple despite the many detail sets used), I have never been setting my Mustang aside. Here is below a little update. As you will see, the road is still long, but I don't despair: 1) I removed completely the "Surface" products and took care to what I could use to add material when necessary. It appeared that the Tamiya LC Putty was stable applying coats of Tamiya paint on it. 2) In addition to the cracks problems, I had to "repair" this logo, awfully damaged by too many coats of paint: This graft integration was not simple, but the result is quite good and much much better: N.B: I found that Gravity Colors has the Wimbledon White in its range. If I had known, I would have used it, as I appreciate a lot their Surface primers, paints and Clears. I didn't know this brand when I began this build and definitely, here too, if I had to redo it, I would use it widely. As says Poul, I gained experience... Cheers, O
  24. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, First I want to reassure you, I could place decals (except the one I miss, of course) without problem this time. Been thinking about the reason why I met such a problem, and as I mentioned above, there are several possible explanations: - the water I used was rather hot (probably about 50°) - I applied the decal maybe a little too soon, and even if the Clear was dry to the touch, I should have been more patient - there was maybe too much thinner in the Gravity Clear I applied. I have understood then (see above) that, contrary to what one might think, adding more thinner to the mix provides a less smooth surface That is why, this time, I used luke water (about 25°), I waited 24h before applying the decals, and I used a mix with less thinner (ratio 15 drops of Clear, 5 drops of Activator and 4 drops of thinner). But as I still worried, I applied a little Tamiya Modeling Wax, to get an even smoother surface, at the risk of decreasing the adhesion of the decals. A little risk, as I explained the adhesion of these Tamiya decals is very strong. To gamblor916: I didn't get any reply from T2M up to now. Maybe could you take a good pic of the decal sheet and send it to me. I could maybe so create a custom decal from this pic. If you could also precise me the width and height of the decal, it would allow me to get the right dimension for the latter... Cheers, O
  25. Totally Mad Olivier
    That's a very kind offer, gamblor916. For now, I didn't get a reply from T2M. I will keep you informed in the next days... Cheers, O
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