Jump to content

Totally Mad Olivier

Gold Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,335

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Totally Mad Olivier

  1. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I brought the last necessary corrections to my build and the latter is now finished. I invite you to see the last pics in the RFI section below: Thanks a lot to all for watching, encouraging and helping! Cheers, O
  2. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello to all, When I began the build/ thread dedicated to the Honda Repsol 2014, it was to take a break while I was struggling with paint problems on my 1/16 AMT Ford Mustang 1964 Convertible. I thought then that I would build it straight for the box or nearly so. It appeared very quickly (as Jochen had foreseen) that it would turn to a highly detailed build, using several details sets (mainly from Top Studio but also from Blue Stuff, Decalcas, Tamiya etc.) and bringing also my own touch for many details. It appeared then that it would be a pity to hide all these details, wires, cables under the cowls. I decided so to keep only the seat/ tank cowl, while all the other ones would be exposed separately. Then came other ideas: build a second bike, that would be the Marc Marquez one (this one is the Dani Pedrosa, using the Pedrosa Blue Stuff set), with a bit less details and with cowls assembled on the bike. But this, with probably a mechanic working on the "naked" Pedrosa bike and Marquez sitting on the one to come, and if possible with a little paddock scenery, is for later... I thank warmly here all my followers in the WIP section, who encouraged me and sometimes, gave me a hand to avoid errors. In particular, gamblor 916 was my GP expert, me who was up to now totally ignorant on motoGP. I am very happy with the result, especially since the last build I was able to finish was the 1/48 Nieuport Ni 11, in May 2020. I apologize for the Mustang followers, this build will go on waiting, but I prefer to go on and begin asap the 2nd bike. I will not open a new WIP thread for this 2nd bike. The latter will appear in the RFI section when over. And now the last pics of this highly detailed Honda Repsol 2014: Some more pics will be added asap… Cheers, Olivier
  3. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks a lot gamblor for this suggestion. It is good to know such a clear epoxy resin exist, and maybe I will order some. But now that my front racing stand is built and painted, it appears that it doesn't give the bike more stability. That is why I will probably represent only one front stand, while there will be of course 2 rear ones. Even if I still have a little time to spend on this bike (piping and front fender), I couldn't stand removing it of its straightjacket (the so useful Marco Model jig) and to present it for the first time with both racing stands: To show the beast with its cowls, I chose to change the cardboard for a Grey one (Meng cutting mat), more suitable with a G.P paddock: Now a word about the mechanic I'm supposed to represent. I got a few weeks ago the Kitano head that is really great. Pity, Ron was right, the Tamiya body is oversized and the head is too small for such a body. I began to decrease (quite a lot) the neck but it is the whole body that will require a significant reduction, what will not be so simple (probably easier though than when I turned Sir Lawrence of Arabia piggybacking on his bike into Pietro Bordino sitting in his Fiat 806, see the thread dedicated to this build). Cheers, O Edit a bit later: I also had the idea to show the bike with a driver on it. Of course, as you know, the driver will jump the 2nd bike (yet to build...) that will have all cowls assembled, and the combination, boots and helmet are not at all the colors of Honda Repsol. It will be another challenge to change Valentino Rossi with Ducati colors into Marc Marquez with Honda ones, but it is though interesting to see that, except hands that can't hold the handlbars for now, the position of the driver (who is correctly sized, him) is really convincing imho:
  4. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks Roger! Maybe it is possible, but I don't know how to proceed, especially since they are clear parts... I have time to think about this problem, since the 2nd bike is yet to build. Cheers, O
  5. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, I didn't tell you, but I ordered a few weeks ago the Top Studio Racing stand set (ref. 23008) in order to get front racing stands, like we may see on some pics taken in the paddock: I thought that these front stands would make more stable my both bikes, and that would also bring a plus to my scenery. Too eager as usual, I began to assemble them (and also the rear stand for the 2nd bike) without noticing that the tripod arm, on the TS front stands, was not present on the above pics: After removal of the wrong arm, I thought all would be fine except that, BUT another problem appeared: Here is what I decided: I would use the Tamiya wheels on the TS rear stand (requiring corrections, see below): For the front stand (s), I will have 2 options: - represent only 1 front stand (fe for the Pedrosa bike) and in this case, use the third Tamiya set of wheels I have) - represent both front stands using the small TS wheels. I will go for this option if the front stand brings a real plus in term of stability. A suggestion? Cheers, O
  6. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, A new update tonight: The beast with her cowls, front fender (the latter will be assembled after last pipings at the front) and racing stand: Cheers, O
  7. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, A new update on this Sunday: when looking at pics, I wondered if the stripes on the fuel tank, seat and rear cowl were Black or Dark Blue: This color issue solved, I could go on: The anti-slip knee anchor pads provided by Tamiya are much too thick (clear polystyrene parts). Decalcas provides better ones in the windshield set, but imho, the best ones, self adhesive, are given by Blue Stuff. More, they are faithful to the Pedrosa ones, that are bigger than Marquez ones. You will have to engrave many holes with 2 needles (a narrow one and a wider one) but it is worth it: Cheers, O
  8. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello chaps, Back home after nice and sports holidays at Kitzbühel, in the beautiful Austrian Tyrol (e-bike, paragliding, hiking etc.). Just before leaving home, I had worked on the undercowl. It was nearly over, it is now OK: Back home, I got in my letterbox the Blue stuff set that I had ordered to get a new 26 decal. I applied it over the previous one. Happily, the wrong Black corrections were nicely covered, and I didn't need to apply Black again in the top square into the 6. On the other hand, one more time, I had folds problems with this decal. These folds appeared after the setting: Cheers, O
  9. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks for this funny post, Jochen (would you mean I am a bit perfectionist??). In fact, the rear cowl being itself not in place, I thought I could put none of the 2 options, what would fix the question of this brushed alu cap… A pic showing the rear cowl naked (without cap or camera) would be great of course, I personally couldn’t find it in the net. On the further Marquez bike that will take place near this one, the rear camera would be assembled.
  10. Totally Mad Olivier
    If he may ride with both options, it seems logic that the camera is installed at the last moment and probably not while the rear cowl is not yet in place. Pity, the oval piece is not provided as an option in the Tamiya kit. I will need to scratch build it…
  11. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello chaps, About the rear camera, I wonder if, since my rear cowl will not be in place on the bike, it is relevant to represent it. On most of the pics, there is, instead of the camera, a metal cap: Now regarding the error I made with the 26 inscription, I had several options: - leave the number with the error, to avoid risks associated to new corrections - do corrections with a paintbrush, as I did wrongly with Black. The Black corrections done were ever very delicate and consequently not perfect. - order a new Blue Stuff Pedrosa set to get a new 26 decal and place the new decal over the previous one. I chose the last option... Cheers, O in holiday
  12. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks a lot gamblor for these precisions about the cameras. And pity, you are right about the black portions in the numbers, as this other pic confirms: I will try to do the corrections made necessary by this error as well as possible... Cheers, O P.S: thanks too, Steve! I had to choose between "thanks" for the kind comment and "laugh" for the last part of your post...
  13. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello chaps, A new update tonight, while I will be far from my bench in the next 8 days: I got just today the RB Motion tiny parts I had ordered, and could so go on and finish the upper cowl job: In order to fix better the nylon net in the concave inside, I glued tiny portions (1 to 1,5 mm diam) of dst. If you use this technique, don't remove the dst, leave it in place. If you do, you will get little yellow spots: Rear cowl: Cheers, O
  14. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello chaps, A new little update: The inscription REPSOL both side was far from being simple to apply, even if happily, the quality of Tamiya decals is an advantage. I had to do some delicate brushstrokes with Vallejo 861 and 842. When all was finally acceptable, the GC-306 was applied following the Gravity procedure. The upper cowl is going on, but I had some troubles with the 26 inscription, the Blue Stuff decals being not at the same level of quality than Tamiya ´s ones: In parallel, I also go on with the rear cowl: Cheers, O
  15. Totally Mad Olivier
    😂 I won't go that far, Jochen, but I would like to represent (at least on the 2nd bike, with the upper cowl in place) the extension of the windshield, the nuts and the screws threads inside (optional on the first one, since the upper cowl inside will not be visible or so few). In the meantime, here is my reworked upper cowl after the White base coat: As I have to leave this element for now, I come back to the side cowls. The inside being OK for me, I have to place decals on the outside but, before, I have to decide if these side fairings will be in place or not. I had 2 options: - place only the left one while the right one would be in place on the bike - place none of the side fairings I opted for the second option. Consequently, before the decal job, I had to remove the "screw" on top (if I had chosen the first one, I would have replaced the Tamiya bulge by a little metal screw, as I did on the front fender) and drill the little hole for the attaching screw: Cheers, O
  16. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello chaps, In my previous post, I said I would certainly use the SK carbon kevlar decals inside my side fairings, and possibly for the upper cowl inside. But I changed my mind and preferred the painting option for the side cowls, because the inside of the latter is very complex. I used so the Gravity net (an improvement compared with the stocking in many situations) and here is the result: In the same time, I go on with my upper cowl, whose shape begins to be pretty nice. (Re) painting job to come soon... Cheers, O
  17. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks a lot, Hamden, these kind words sound like a powerful encouragement! Honestly, gamblor, I don't think I was able (it's too late, anyway, the part was dipped in the US bath with Paint remover) to achieve successfully such touch-ups, with the decal GAS in immediate proximity, the Gloss coat ever applied etc. With my own skills, I am nearly sure the Orange touch-ups would have been visible and, for such an important and visible element, a compromise was not acceptable for me. I preferred to leave on a good basis and do the necessary corrections BEFORE the painting job, what I should have done first. As I said above, I took advantage to further improve the upper cowl, and also the set of Tamiya parts A12/ 13/ 14 (I don't know how to call it). The comparison below will show better than words what I mean: The Tamiya upper cowl, initially at least 1 mm thickness (much more by places), is now 0,7 mm nearly everywhere. Futhermore, good new, I got my driver supposed to represent Marc Marquez (I recall I could not find a figure of the latter at 1/12) that is in fact a Valentino Rossi one: I forgot to precise in the label: compared with the mechanic, but you understood. I could though try to thin a bit my strong mechanic 😉. But all that is for later, I still have work to do on my first bike... Cheers, O Last minute: I also just got the carbon kevlar ordered on spotmodel on kind gamblor's suggestion: This decal should be used on the side fairings inside, and remain an option inside my upper cowl to redo...
  18. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello chaps, I'm afraid I am going to redo completely the uppercowl. Indeed, drilling 0,7 mm holes and inserting 0,85 mm diameter screw heads inside was a total mistake, the latter being much too big compared with the really tiny screw heads, as the merciless comparison below confirms: A close-up allows to say the screw heads diameter should be about 0,5 mm imho. I will have several options to represent these screw heads (I ordered 0,51 mm diameter ones on RB Motion yesterday, but I could also cut 0,5 mm tin rivets with my RP Toolz Rivets Maker: Of course, I know some will say that redoing the full job while no one would have noticed this error is a pity, but sorry, I have tried to be faithful on slightly visible details, yet this upper cowl, especially on its outside, will be particularly visible and consequently, I can't stand keeping it like that. I will take advantage of this repair to further improve the Tamiya part: it remains indeed too thick imho in general and particularly by places... Cheers, TMO
  19. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello my friends, A new update for the upper cowl: If someone knows where I could find tiny screws (still out of stock for months on GSW), thank you to tell me! A bit later, the windshield was assembled on the upper cowl with Testors white glue: Cheers, O Edit later: I finally found tiny screws and hex nuts, on RB Motion. Quite expensive, I hope they will be fine...
  20. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello chaps, A new update tonight, while my upper cowl is nearly OK, except important (and delicate!) details yet to come (windshield, screws): Cheers, O
  21. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello chaps, I said above I would add a pinch of White to the Anthracite Black to get a Dark Grey. I had a better idea, mixing both Gravity carbon paints included in the set (ratio Dark 75% Light 25%) without using the net. The result is nice, and the comparison with the 1/48 carbon decal shows very comparable results: N.B: the great Gravity Clear coat (to come) should highlight a bit the metallic pigments of this mix and improve so the result ever acceptable. Cheers, O
  22. Totally Mad Olivier
    Yes, Jochen, it's me and I'm fine, thank you! In fact, I am redoing (or rather improving) the painting job on the outer part of the upper cowl, but without having to remove the paint with a Paint Remover, and that is precisely what I wanted to avoid... The many trials on the inside leaded to little defects outside (visible on my last pics if you look closely), what I obviously couldn't stand: the Fluo Orange, the White strip and the Fluo Red are ever improved and OK now. I am redoing the left side of the lower White area (the right side is ever done too): N.B: These complementary coats are thin. For the lower "Black" area, we could see thanks to gamblor that it is in fact carbon with a tiny pattern. My decision about the way I will proceed for the latter is not taken: I would prefer a painting option a priori. If so, the most simple would be to add a pinch of White to my Black, providing a very Dark Grey that is more faithful than the Black I applied previously. Honestly, considering the scale, the tiny pattern is nearly invisible, and only a close-up allows to see it. Another painting option would be to use the smallest grade of nylon net (pre-test required as the pattern would probably be too big). I would prefer to avoid the 1/48 carbon decal for this area but it is a third option. Cheers, O Edit 30 mn later:
  23. Totally Mad Olivier
    Thanks slippers for this kind comment and welcome in the thread! gamblor was right, my idea to use the net provided by Gravity was finally not good, as it leaded to get a too thick weave. In fact, when I read him saying so, I was ever wondering myself if I should go on with this option. It's true, I am able to all patiences to get the best result I can get and with my favorite hobby. I assure you I have not the same patience for everything 😉!
  24. Totally Mad Olivier
    Hello chaps, As I said at the end of my previous post, I made a last attempt. For the latter, I decided to rather use the biggest grade among the 3 nets provided by Gravity in the carbon box set. Indeed, the doc below (provided by gamblor, as many other ones) shows that the carbon kevlar pattern is quite wide here (we could see that the carbon pattern may vary a very lot following the parts): N.B: - I could thin a lot with alcohol since I used Tamiya acrylics (X-18 and my mix XF-4/ X-8) - I said in the label that this upper cowl inside would be nearly invisible. In fact, depending the way I will place the fairing, it could be more or less visible: Notice that, on a pic gamblor showed above, the upper cowl is placed upside down. Pity, we can't see it better, it would be very interesting: Considering that, following the way my upper cowl will be placed in my "scenario", I decided to do the merciless comparison: Cheers, O
  25. Totally Mad Olivier
    I suppose you talk about the nylon net. I think you are right, it is indeed a bit too thick. I may try the option you mention here, or as well the carbon kevlar on Spotmodel you put in link previously. Here is my strategy: I will first try to avoid redoing all the painting job. I drill the holes (0,7 mm) in which the tiny screws holding the windshield (head 0,9 mm diam.) will be inserted (replacing advantageously the little Tamiya bulges), I remove the bulges relative to the screws 5 and 6, I fill the Tamiya holes and manage a little hole (0,7 mm, as mentioned). A thin coat of White as base coat is necessary before applying again the Fluo Orange: If things go well (Fluo Orange OK), I will follow your suggestion, gamblor, spraying a Black coat on the mesh inside (masking carefully the outside...) before removing the latter. If not, I will redo completely the painting job on this upper cowl… Edit a few hours later: the good new is that the correction on the Fluo Orange is OK. The less good new is that spraying the Black with the net in place inside was not good when removing the latter. I recall that the net had been applied using a thin (0,05 mm) dst and so, the Black was sprayed on this dst. I decided to remove the dst, I found my previous Yellow background and I tried again to use the net (not glued this time) and apply again Black. Result a little better but not good enough: I decided to order immediately the ones 1/20 carbon kevlar SK decal mentioned above. I think this should allow to get a neat result. The hardest will be to avoid folds, while I have to deal with a very concave area... But maybe I will though make a last attempt with the painting option… Cheers, O
×
×
  • Create New...