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Olivier de St Raph

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Olivier de St Raph last won the day on May 21 2017

Olivier de St Raph had the most liked content!

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About Olivier de St Raph

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 04/06/1963

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St Raphaël, France
  • Interests
    Model making, football, cinema, music

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  1. I am very grateful to Roy for sending me these samples. I must though admit that I am a bit sceptical about these Chrome powders (I hope I am wrong with Uschi's one). They give a very nice finish if you want a dark Chrome but I am afraid none of them will give the right light Chrome as a plated one like the AMT. I made a last trial (I said I'm a tough guy...) with 95% Gloss White and only 5% Light Blue. The result is a still a bit lighter Chrome (let's say 15/20 instead of 14,5 with the previous version) but it remains much darker than the AMT Chrome, the reference. The undercoat influences a bit the final result, but not so much in fact, that's the problem. But we shall see with Uschi's one, maybe I will go up to 16/20... The minimum score for me to accept such a solution as a good compromise. I hope this quest is not too boring for the reader, but I consider that the Chrome parts (bumpers, particularly) are a very important aspect of a vintage car like the Ford Mustang (much more than the engine fan, fe), one of the most obviously visible elements of the model once finished. Thanks for watching... Olivier
  2. If nobody can say I am not ambitious, nobody can’t say you are slow and ineffective ! Thanks a lot and don’t worry about the stamps!
  3. Very kind, Roy! I accept, of course. In this case, I will leave for now this aspect and focus on other ones (and there are plenty!!) Do you need me to recall you my adress? I suppose so, and I am gonna send you a PM for that. Cheers Olivier
  4. Thanks a lot Roy for these suggestions. I didn't know Uschi had such powders in his catalog. As you seem to have this Chrome powder from Uschi, can you show me the Chrome you get with it? Before buying it, I would like to be sure I will get a lighter Chrome than with the C1... And I am going to study with care the 2nd option too. Cheers Olivier
  5. I have got my second box, the opportunity to do a comparison between the different options, each one with advantages and drawbacks: 1) Molotow LC: the color is very good (9/10) but the brightness is really not convincing (4/10). 13/20 2) Pale Blue (my last sample) + C1: the color remains too dark (pity, the influence of the base coat color is low) (6/10) while the mirror effect is very good (8,5/10). 14,5/20 3) The AMT Chrome is great: color 10/10 and mirror effect 10/10, but the front bumper has a wrong shape (especially vertical appendixes), there are mould lines, sprues de-clumping marks and the pads are missing. Conclusion: Up to now, I could not get (despite my efforts) the great AMT Chrome with neither the C1 powder, neither the Molotow LC. I don't know what to do anymore.
  6. Here is the result I could get with my last trials: I chose to buff (despite the recommendations of the instructions) my samples with the Tamiya compounds, and then used dish soap (a bath in US tank with water) as detergent. The C1 powder has worked on this polished and washed surface. With both samples, I get a Chrome a bit lighter, very nice but still too dark. It doesn't seem really necessary to use a metallic base coat, the solution to get a lighter Chrome seems to be rather to have a lighter Blue base coat. I am gonna try to lighten my H45, by mixing it with Gloss White...
  7. Now that I know a Blue base coat may allow to get a lighter Chrome, and before buying new products, I do trials with the paints I ever have. A first trial with the Tamiya Sky Blue X-14 (acrylic) was encouraging, with a nice and less Dark Chrome after buffing than with a Black or Gun Metal base coat. Though, as the result remains too dark, I do a new trial with the Hobby Color Bright H45 Light Blue (acrylic too). I have to wait the drying before buffing, I will show the result as soon as possible. Been thinking that I could also get a nice Metallic Blue by applying first a coat of Silver (fe Tamiya enamel X11) on which I would apply a Gloss Transparent Blue, I then prepared this new sample: I look forward to see what these new trials will show. One thing is sure: I prefer a mirror effect with a Chrome a bit too dark than a light Chrome with a not real mirror effect (Molotow LC)... That’s why I go on with my trials, hoping I will be rewarded... P.S: a sentence has kept my attention in the C1 powder instructions posted above: "If polishing is unavoidable, remove surface contaminants using a detergent before applying powder". Considering the major influence of a high sheen base coat before buffing with C1 to get a mirror effect, I thought that it would be interesting to test that option: getting a high sheen of the blue base coat (like we could get without polishing with the TS-14) by polishing (Alclad Micromesh, Tamiya Compounds) and then wash with detergent the part, before applying the powder...
  8. 1) And the winner is (for now): Molotow LC + C1 powder buffing (the best compromise imho)! If you want a Dark Chrome, the best result is got with the combination TS-14/ C1. The C1 powder is a disappointment for me: the 3 rd photo on the instructions below suggested an amazing light Chrome, exactly what I wanted, but I would be glad to know how this result could be got (I followed strictly imho the instructions and was very generous with the powder): P.S: maybe I found out the recipe by myself. As I wanted to send a message to C1 Models on the internet site, I saw that it is recommended to apply a "Metallic Blue" base coat to get a light Chrome. Pity, this was not precised in the instructions... Pity, the manufacturer doesn't give a precise reference for this Metallic Blue. It is very nice and shiny. Do you recognize what paint it is? Tamiya TS-19? TS-54? Candy Electric Blue ZP? I sent a message to C1 Models and hope I will get the answer. More soon... 2)
  9. 1) I have got today the Pecamax can (to use as reference for the Wimbledon White). I made a first trial: N.B: I am gonna apply the Klear Kote and buff it now, so that I will check the final result with and without painting. 2) Unlike what I intended to do (unpaint the body), I will have no choice. The styrene gives subtle shades differences, following its thickness. The paint will be necessary to get a regular result. N.B: the result is poor for now, it will be difficult to get a nice result with these slots. One of the conditions is to decrease the thickness (very thin sheet on the real car) to about 0,4 mm (my initial idea) what supposes that I will have to apply the Pecamax paint, in order to give opacity to the transparency thin styrene. 3) I have also got today the Tamiya TS-14 and TS-38, and I am doing a new (and last) trial with the C1 powder. I hope I will be able to get a less dark Chrome... N.B: the TS-38 doesn' t give the same sheen than the TS-14 (impressive with the latter, really beautiful laquer look). 4) If I can't get a light Chrome with the C1 powder over my samples, I will certainly choose the following combination:
  10. Thanks Harvey! Yes, the C1 powder is a great product, that gives a very nice metal look (you can get quite different and subtle shades following the color and the more or less bright base coat). In fact, I am not yet sure (despite my enthusiam in my post# 196 above) to use the Molotow. Even applied in thick coat, I can't get with the latter the mirror effect of a vintage car bumper like the Mustang. The challenge would be to get a lighter Chrome with the C1. I am going on doing trials and will draw conclusions soon. About my last post (197), I have reconsidered the thickness required. 0,4 mm is too thin, and 1 mm is good. Under 1 mm, you get an undesired transparency of the styrene that I have to avoid especially if I choose the unpainted body option. Cheers Olivier
  11. Of course, I could just paint in black the slots, to simulate them, but I could get a much more realistic result (requiring much more work...) by recreating them, what requires first to decrease a lot the styrene thickness at this level:
  12. Olivier de St Raph

    Fiat 806gp full-scratchbuild 1:12

    Waooh, Harvey, still more impressive! And your build really begins to take shape. Hats off my friend ! Olivier
  13. I think I got it! I think I got it!! Those of you who begin to know me are aware that I am a tough guy. After many trials, I think I found the key to get a good bright Chrome aspect (not as perfect as a manufacturer one, but very acceptable). I have sprayed the whole rear bumper with high air pressure and high paint flow, and here is the result: I have always, up to now, been used to airbrush with a low pressure and low paint flow, working slowly and getting so a fine grain. But if you do so with the Molotow, you will never get a convincing Chrome. I had to force myself to work very differently, but the result is there, and I like it. The C1 powder will find other applications, but it definitely gives a too dark Chrome that imho doesn't match with the Mustang bumpers. I don't think I will use any varnish on my "Molotowed" bumpers, I will just wait 48 h before handling them and yet, carefully, with gloves... I hope my experience will be useful for other modelers. I could have earned time if I could have got such infos, instead of stumble around like I did from the moment I got this product. N.B: I will have to remove the Molotow on my rear bumper because I have to add the pads first (and maybe other corrections if necessary). But this removal will be easy, by placing 1 mn the bumper in a US tank filled with 90 * rubbing alcohol (Molotow LC is an acrylic paint)
  14. N.B: the photo above shows that my gap is still too narrow, I have to extend it from the top...
  15. As I said above, I could take advantage of removing my bumper to improve it. The shape has been rounded, the vertical appendixes have been improved too, the surface is smooth now, and the pads have been added. The question now is: what option to represent as well as possible their Chrome aspect. If I can get a lighter Chrome with the Gloss Gun Metal (instead of Black), I will probably choose the C1 powder, for the great mirror effect and the best metal look, impressive...
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