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Olivier de St Raph

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Olivier de St Raph last won the day on May 21 2017

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About Olivier de St Raph

  • Rank
    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 06/04/1963

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  • Location
    St Raphaël, France
  • Interests
    Model making, football, cinema, music

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  1. Funny, Harvey, the batteries charging, while I will soon have to do that with my next « green » car... Cheers, O
  2. Dear Jeroens, I apologize for my build turning very quiet and I thank you very much, it is good to read that I miss you a bit. I have been very busy these last weeks and I must admit that I have lost a bit of motivation (the challenge is so high with every step). I suppose it is normal to need a break from time to time. But be sure I will be soon back again at my workbench. In this fall of motivation, the disappointment with my 3D resin printer, unable to print correctly the air deflector, is an element. But I am actually studying to choose my next car (that should be an electric one...) and this takes me the few free time I have (as in model making, I am unable to go fast ). All the best Olivier
  3. That's right Jeroen, and our hobby is not particularly better for our backs. I try to work out a bit to compensate... I think we are quite a lot in this case, Harvey. About the NHS, I know it is not a reference in term of medical care system, but the french one is not so much better
  4. Here I am back again after a few days of holiday and then some other days very busy and with a new episode of low back pain (not over, pity...). With the frequent neck pains, that's a lot for one man. A standard exchange of my whole back would be a good thing, definitely! Because of all that, the update is very limited and is about the rubber joint around the outside handle: Cheers Olivier
  5. In the next days, I will be in holidays and so far from my workbench. I will try to take advantage of this free time to begin reading the books (one in french, one in english) I bought about how to (try to) master Fusion 360.
  6. I was wrong mentioning Microset, it is in fact MicroSol that I used (I have edited my post above to do the correction). And I confirm that MicroSol didn't help in that occasion. But it is not its fault, there was really a big problem with the combination Holi Laser paper/ LDF. Though, I must say that, after the previous failure, I had applied 2 coats of LDF, was is definitely a bad inspiration. I have just printed again the lettering on the Holi Laser decal and applied this time a light coat of LDF. I hope this will decrease the folding of the edges. And, as I said above, I should cut every letter and digit very carefully, removing all the clear film possible. If I still have problems with the clear decals, I will order a new LDF can, as, unlike what I said (I confused with another Microscale product), I don't know when I bought this LDF (it must be quite old as later, I have taken the good habit to precise the date on the cans for many products). Thanks to both of you Harvey and Jeroens for your suggestions anyway Cheers Olivier
  7. In the post# 667 above, I explained how tricky had been the decal job. As I had to redo it on the left door, here are the problems met and the way I tried to solve them as I could: N.B: the MicroSol, instead of improving the adhesion, increases the folding... I think I will redo totally one more time this decal job, not really convincing. I will probably cut and place the letters one by one, removing the clear film very closely...
  8. "Happily", one half deflector could be correctly printed, allowing to check dimensions and angles, by comparison with the real car ones:
  9. The Clear decal job has been (and is still for the left door) very tricky. The print on Inkjet paper (with an Inkjet printer) was poor, with too much ink, whatever the option of paper and quality I could use. The print on a Laser paper (using a Laser printer) was much better, but here, the problems arrived later, after applying the decal. The latter tended to be folded on the edges, with a very low tack. Using Micro Sol, instead of improving the result, made it still worse. I thought I would turn mad with these decals. I even considered I would finally use the wrong AMT lettering, but this option was really frustrating. Well, I finally could get this result (acceptable if not perfect) at the price of great efforts of patience: P.S: very tricky too the 3D print of the air deflector I designed (in 2 parts, in and out) with Michael: The resin printer failed in printing correctly these objects. I asked the Anycubic support but no reply up to now... I will probably use traditional scratch approaches for these parts...
  10. Waaoh! Antonio, your build is just great, and your photos too, especially the ones of your posts# 31 and 34. Very impressive composition with the blades turning. Hats off my friend, first for the modeling work (what a beautiful weathering!) and for the PS work! You are an artist, definitely! Cheers Olivier
  11. When Les suggested yesterday that the lettering was too tall, I was not at home. Back again at my workbench, I needed to confirm he was right. I made these measures and used one more time the rule of 3 (nearly all what I remember in maths ). I could so determine that Les was right, my lettering was about 10% too tall (5,5 instead of 4,9 mm). I noticed another important fact: the writing is not parallel to the body line: Of course, I will take all that in consideration. Thanks a lot Les, you avoided me an error. You often need an outside eye, and that is why I consider that I get as much as I give on Britmodeller. Hannes, Harvey, Crazy Crank, Roy, John and many others, at a moment, have so avoided me wrong ways. The occasion to thank again all great modelers who helped me so. A big thought too to Juan Manuel Villalba, who, out of Brit, learnt me so much and so avoided me many errors too. Olivier P.S: I could determine that the best size in Word to get the right lettering size was 20,5. I found out at this occasion that I could use a value between 2 whole numbers.
  12. You seem to be right, Les, and I will try the 21 size instead of 22, that should probably be better. But it is difficult to be sure with the photo I made because the writing is on a different support (paper) placed over the door. I am not sure I understood very well your other suggestion about the Ford script. The idea of taking a photo seems interesting. I could then lighten the color in the MacBook Photo parameters. But I would prefer to avoid removing the AMT decal that is very difficult to remove (I experienced that with the stripes on the hood). This means that I would have to place the lighter Blue decal over the other one, what supposes they are exactly the same size. I am not sure this light color difference justifies such a delicate job. Well, anyway, I will remember the suggestion for another time. Olivier P.S: I take advantage of your post to thank you warmly again (I did it only my PM) for the samples you kindly sent to me.
  13. I am gonna try to represent better this inscription using Microsoft Word and my Clear virgin decals. I will have to do several trials before finding the right character font and the right size... Here are below on other angle views the writings on the side. The "Ford" one, like the "Official" one, should be imho in a lighter Blue than what the AMT decals suggests. But corrections on the latter would be too challenging, I will leave them as they are, as a compromise. Edit a bit later: N.B: you must read « font » and not « front » in the label, of course... Edit still a bit later: I have printed the inscriptions « INDIANAPOLIS 500 » and « PACE CAR » (same parameters) on the Clear Virgin decal sheet. Here again, several trials have been necessary in order to have the best result possible. Indeed, if I chose « mat » or « semi gloss photo paper », there was too much ink, and if I chose « Gloss photo paper », there was not enough ink. The best result was obtained choosing a normal paper in high quality.
  14. In the post# 659 above, I showed that some aspects of the inner door area had to be improved: These improvements are now visible: the front panel has been completely removed and replaced by a new one, that closes the gap. The lower and front part of the door has been rounded. The handles, too short, have been redesigned and replaced:
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