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Olivier de St Raph

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Olivier de St Raph last won the day on May 21 2017

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About Olivier de St Raph

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    Very Obsessed Member
  • Birthday 04/06/1963

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    St Raphaël, France
  • Interests
    Model making, football, cinema, music

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  1. Olivier de St Raph

    Pocher Bugatti T50 Coupé de Ville: a resurrection

    Oups! Sorry Roy, I didn't take enough care... she's very nice and smiling!
  2. Olivier de St Raph

    Pocher Bugatti T50 Coupé de Ville: a resurrection

    Salut Thierry, je découvre à l'instant (je ne prends pas assez le temps d'aller voir les autres forums et notamment le tien) les gros soucis de santé auxquels tu as dû faire face. J'en suis sincèrement désolé et je te souhaite, comme tout un chacun, un très rapide rétablissement, et la possibilité de reprendre très vite cette réalisation hors du commun de cette voiture extraordinaire (super, la vidéo de Roy, et sympa, les petites apparitions et commentaires de ce que je suppose être son fils). Amitiés Olivier
  3. That said, honestly, by the naked eye, the result is really better than what this merciless photo suggests... Edit a few hours later: I have applied a second coat of W.W, thinned this time with the Mr Hobby Aqueous thinner, that allows to get a much brighter surface. And what I see with this 2nd coat is that my slots are OK (imho), I just have a little tweak around them here or there. So I finally won't require the services of my technician for this time. On the other hand, the hood must be improved (the middle rib must be more visible, the state of surface must be smoother)
  4. Daniel, honestly it is not at all the problem of the money I spent on a resin printer. Maybe you don't have a good perception of the result because it is not yet painted. and because the integration job of this "graft" is not over. I have a certain level of requirement, quite high I think (it is not a perfect world, though...) and this result I got with the resin printer (at least as good - if not better...- as the best one I got with the FDM printer imho) is really satisfying for me. As a painter or a sculptor who has to decide at a moment that such a detail is, if not perfect, satisfying to his eyes, I considered it was the case. I couldn't spend all my life on this detail that represents maybe 0,5% of the whole build, while I got such a so good result (to my eyes), much better than what I could get with traditional techniques (thanks to you, who opened my eyes on 3D printing and who provided me the inlet slots file!) I am gonna do the sanding job around (I don't feel necessary to improve further the slots themselves) and when I will apply the Wimbledon White, then maybe you will understand better my decision (the transparent green doesn't do justice to that result). Now if I compare (humbly, with my very small experience of both kind of printers) the advantages and weak points of each kind of 3D printing technology, I would say: FDM : adv: - clean - cheap - printing simple and not requiring a lot of room, products, material and procedures w.p: - quite bad state of surface of the PLA, hard material (difficult and random post processing) hardly compatible imho with our modelers requirements - average level of accuracy - Cura settings not simple imho Resin: adv: - good level of accuracy with a basic printer like the Anycubic, probably great with a high-end one like the Form 2 (Formlabs), much more expensive - the post-processing is easy, allowing to get a neat state of surface (a very important parameter to my modelers eyes). So, from a just average result of the printing itself, I could get the expected result. w.p: - quite messy, needs much material and products (UV lights, US vat, resin, filters, funnel, Resinaway etc.) and more room. I had to reorganize a bit my working space. - requires more care (mask, gloves, protection glasses), a bit smelly (better to work in a well ventilated and large room) - Anycubic slicing software to improve (see above) - the cleaning procedures are quite tedious Honestly, and despite the inconvenients, I don't regret the choice I made of a resin printer. Btw, these conclusions are not only mine, I share them with an experienced figures modeler, Thomas Roussel (and not only with him, see videos on YT), who experienced several printers of both technologies (he should try the Anycubic very soon, I will post the link on the thread then). Conclusion: I am a beginner in 3D printing, and I have to practice and so improve my results, but I think the resin printers suits more for my model making hobby.
  5. I decided I had spent enough time with the inlet slots. I have still improved the part, then cut it and then integrated it on my body, first removing (with a tear...) my previous crafted ones, that were far from being as good despite all my efforts. After a delicate fitting job, I used Tamiya liquid cyano by capillarity first, and then the Vallejo Plastic Putty to fill the small gaps (just applied). After a complete drying of the latter, the final sanding job will end the step... N.B: 1) I have completely removed any trace of Wimbledon White paint (Tamiya Paint Remover, alcohol) to avoid a thick coat of paint, that would decrease the slots width. 2) my last trial of printing was not bad, but not better than the all first one. As I had ever spent time in the post processing with the latter, I naturally used it.
  6. No, it doesn’t. Of course, it also depends on the quantity you use for the bottom and the supports. But definitely, we can’t say it consumes a lot. And you can refill the can of resin filtering the remaining resin staying in the vat after the print. Now all in all, the resin consumables are certainly more expensive than FDM.
  7. Yes, Daniel, but I didn't print them. A 250 ml bottle of resin was provided and I worried about lacking of resin if I began to print objects with no particular interest. I now know that you can print several times (it also depends on the objects, of course) even with a small bottle like that. I have ordered a 1l bottle of Anycubic white resin, I hope I will get it soon, as because of my many trials, I begin to lack with resin...
  8. This day, begun with hopes, stayed on with disappointments and failures, ends with a big bag of sunshine: first because I now know the reasons of my failures, thanks to Thomas. Then because I am sure the latter will be able to give me the keys to get the most out of this Anycubic printer. His experience could also be very useful for CAD... And then BECAUSE FINALLY I COULD GET THESE DAMNED MEASURES OF THE SEATS !!! I have thanked warmly machbill, from the Mustang forum, who just posted them on the latter. He will get, at the end of my build, a small and personal gift, as Bernard of course, for his contribution to my build. So: - Photo 1: 1= 23 cm (14,37 mm) 2= 21 cm (13,12 mm) 3= 36 cm (22,5 mm) 4= 38 cm (23,75 mm) 5= 56 cm (35 mm) 6= 43 cm (26,9 mm) 7= 38 cm (23,75 mm) 8= 38 cm (23,75 mm) 9= 5 cm (3,12 mm) 10= 6,5 cm (4 mm) 11a (on the side)= 9 cm (5,6 mm) 11b (I made a mistake and used 2 times the number 11)= 18 cm (11,25 mm) 12= 20 cm (12,5 mm) 13= 37,5 cm (23,4 mm) 14= 3,5 cm (2,19 mm) - Photo 2: 1= 48 cm (30 mm) 2= 50 cm (31,25 mm) 3= 55 cm (34,38 mm) 4= 9,5 cm (5,94 mm) 5= 30 cm (18,75 mm) 6= 45 cm (28,13 mm) 7= 29,5 cm (18,44 mm) 8= 54 cm (33,75 mm) 9= 6 cm (3,75 mm) - Photo 3: 1= 30 cm (18,75 mm) 2= 17 cm (10,62 mm) 3= 64 cm (40 mm) 4= 66 cm (41,25 mm) 5= 14 cm (8,75 mm) Conclusion: tenacity ends up paying... Now the hardest is to come... Thanks for going on watching this totally mad thread of a totally crazy modeler... Olivier P.S: it is interesting (and a good new for me) to see that the standards front seats are a bit narrower than the Pony ones.
  9. No problem, Dan. Though, I personally go on thinking such a machine will allow me to get nice inlet slots (as the photo above, post# 553, suggests imho), much better than crafted ones. The etched method, that I never used, is maybe a good way too. The problem is that I was (and am still) unexperienced in 3D resin printing. To that matter, Thomas has ever replied and explained that the surfaces to print must never be parallel or perpendicular to the platform, what explains most of my failures. He also said that choosing a very low layer height is the best way to fail. Here too, if I had known that before, I would have earned a lot of time. To learn walking, you have to accept to fall... Regards Olivier
  10. Bernard kindly (happily for me, he is here, and pity, he hasn't got the same seats than the Indy 500...) made the measures. And, just as I feared, the width between side flanges is too low. Bernard measured 1280 mm (80 mm at 1/16 instead of 71 mm) at the front and 1260 mm (78,75 mm instead of 71 mm) at the rear (behind the front seats). As I don't intend to reconsider the car's width (what would send me too far), I will have to deal and find compromises, fe by decreasing a bit the tunnel width and by representing seats a bit too narrow (wider though than the AMT ones)... The last printing trial was a little better but, as I feared, the supports on the thin rods were not a good thing for them. Finally, for now, my first print remains the best. A good new in this ocean of bad ones: the cured resin is really great to work, and so it is possible to still improve this version by sanding it with care: P.S: I have sent a message to Thomas Roussel, of Polysculpt, who made the tuto above testing the Creality LD-001 (I also followed his hints about the Resinaway - other great tuto - and the UV small room. He is french, speaks very well english, is used to work with resin 3D prints and is a modeler (figures). I hope he will be OK to bring me some help and improve my 3D resin printings.
  11. Ok Roy, now I understand. It is impossible to know if they really want to hide some stuff to us or if they are just not concerned by this research. You seem to lean for the 1st assumption, I would personally rather bet for the 2nd... The result is the same anyway.
  12. I try not to give up, and made a new trial, with new settings: - as my first trial was the best (without being perfect), I decided to place my model inclined a bit as it was, and I used the "Auto-Support" mode, in which the software puts a lot of supports, including on some thin rods (from below). I increased the normal exposure time to 10. I have not understood how the "Off time" parameter affects the result. I just have to wait more than 2 hours until this new print is over, praying the modelers God! I apologize again for sharing all these failures on a 3D printer, probably loosing more and more modelers interested in this thread.
  13. You still couldn't access to their archives?? Incredible! I must say I was more lucky for this time, having a rdv quite easily by phone, as you remember. On site, I could visit the museum alone and then access to the archives, or more precisely, ask them archives that I could see (I couldn't go and have a look myself in the library). I am so sorry for you about that. Could someone else go and get a rdv like me? I remember that Sam (sharknose156) intended to go to Turin and do that...
  14. I agree with you on what you explain here, Roy, and it is true that depending on the others will is something really difficult. But we can't buy the original models just to represent them!! (in most of the cases, it would be impossible, anyway...). If I can't get them with this french forum, I will go for an American one... More, the last trial with my machine was again a failure. There are several possible explanations for such failures: - need for more supports, especially for the thin rods - bad settings, especially the exposure time to UV - problem with the FEP film (when you clean it, removing the resin, it tends to loose a bit of transparency) As we felt like pioneers when building the Fiat 806, I feel like a kind of pioneer with this 3D resin printer. A (french, if possible) community of modelers using such a tool would be welcome to learn faster and understand our failures... This will come soon probably...
  15. Not yet, as we are on Sunday, but of course I will... I had asked him several questions before realizing that there was a big problem with his file, to which he has not yet replied, so I considered unuseful to go on with this one. I hope I will get complete answers tomorrow from him...