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RCI

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Everything posted by RCI

  1. so lesson for today: DACOs strongest decal solution is just too strong for these probably almost 20 year old Liveries Unlimited decals. The shrinking and wrinkle process is fine but they dont align properly. at least the tamiya stuff is able to fix it. so, i was a bit afraid of the big titles, but lucky me, all went fine. the white decal is ok, but not the best, i can live with that. i had to use a water bubble to level the stand and the aircraft, because the title on the tail is level with the fuselage but not with the No2 engine itself. i love doing these kind of things
  2. a little bit proud, cause with tons of work i finally managed to get the bird kind of alive! i m still thinking about the next step, it might be decaling.
  3. had a run today... here i was drawing the masks for the stabilizer guard, cut them with my silhouette and tadaaaaa... grey belly. but its not yet finished, cause i have seen that the belly is divided by 2 different shades of grey.
  4. Finally, allthough i missed my goal to finish it early Nov, i could make some progress. Yesterday night i repainted the Tail with a slightly lighter purple and now i m really happy with the result. some clean up still needs to be done, next step is the grey belly!
  5. oh dear.. ðŸĪĶ‍♂ïļ not that i expected a perfect kit, but cockpit windows completely missed, no apu intake, and no landing gear. i dont understand their new way of doing things.
  6. thx phil! i always try my best, but building models takes sooo long ðŸ˜Đ i promise i will take it one or two further steps up with my next model. i always practice to improve all skills for some very special builds. learning here a lot from the military guys, they have lots of good techniques and this forum is just perfect to copy a lot of this stuff 🙂 MRP calls them acrylic laquers. so actually i dont know what it really is 😄 honestly i prefer longer drying times, the quick ones usually leave orange skin or dust on large areas. even tamiya or gunze offer laquer paints...quite a few on the market
  7. haha indeed, but i think thats also due to the light on the photo. i will just give it a shade more purple.
  8. hmmm i dont think so, its more a LH blue instead of fedex purple. its just a light shade brighter than what i used...i will spray a light coat with brighter purple... but i guess i wont make in the next 10 days 😕
  9. so, this is basically the only way to get the purple right. when i started painting i thought the tone is too bright and its too purple, so i mixed it darker...which was a mistake ðŸ˜Đ i have to repaint that...and even worse, i have to mask it again. anyway there are some touch ups and cleaning necessary
  10. hm yes, at some point. i would love to build another 3 or 4 different liveries but considering the high amount of work, i think i wont do it in the near future.
  11. thx adam! they took a lot of time. in generel this kit is very "intense"
  12. thx Nicolay! still a lot to do.... next project will be something easier
  13. WHITE! again MRP 004 , quite ok, though it maybe makes more sense to go for white instead of grey primer. i used a whole bottle of 004 to cover the fuselage only, allthough its opacity is quite good and a hundred times better than tamiya gloss white. 2 coats, each day one coat and as usual new masks. basically every new layer gets new masks to avoid ugly edges.
  14. coroguards with some light weathering done! first time i demasked the lights... looks ok. once the clear coat is on, i will polish it.
  15. stabs are almost finished, missing the leading edge, some clear coat and weathering 🙂 body lights finished, not a 100% as i wanted them, cause 2 holes were drilled too deep, but still ok. i can live with that. Cargo door is also ready for the decal. the 3d decals are nice, the hinge is quite visible on the decal. will put it on today and start painting the wings.
  16. haha a lot of masking tape 🙂 the brown area around the fan is the fan case, i think it is some composite. If you take a close look to the 11 engine, you'll see it. On the 747SP it is even more visible. Airbus made that one in dark grey on the A320 and it is made of rubber, in case a blade brakes or there is an imbalance in the fan after a birdstrike etc. The vents / louvres in the pylon are decals. Authentic decals... i hate to use 3d decals, cause the part should be 3d, but not the decal, there was simply no way around for me. i think metallic details has an etchpart for it, but i dont like their set and that would have been so much work on top. As i said, masking makes a decision here. The resonance panels inside are quite unique in their shape and geometry and weathering is essential! thx for your kind words 🙂 best regards Sini
  17. engines finished and weathered. had some issues with the tamiya weathering set, i wanted a very light weathering and had to remove it here and there. i think the result is ok. also for the intake... lots of masking work, but it was worth it. i wanted to take Mr.Color Super silver GX (i think thats the name), but it was almost dry...shelf life a year?! strange.. so i took alclad semi matt aluminium and went over it with some tamiya black (20/80 ratio). i think the fan went i bit too dark, but it is ok. usually it is dark in these intakes...maybe next time less post shading
  18. yes, i think the method works quite ok. just be careful that no bubbles are trapped and DON'T drill the whole too deep. if you drill it the lense must be almost level with the fuselage, if it is too deep the brilliance is lost and it does not look as good. awesome Jeff, let me know if it works for you as well as it did for me! really love the paints, just a bit sad that they are lacking of more colors for airliners (candy colors, like purple and so on) today i ll continue on the 11, had a really busy week... 😕 best regards Sini
  19. haha hey Chris, you are welcome to do so... i think thats one of the many purposes of this forum 😄 this is what it looks like once it is finished. Thats a DACO 737. if anone is interested i can also show the steps of the process.
  20. Drilled the holes... 1,5mm is just perfect for the lenses. Then i set the lenses in and fill it with CA glue. Then sand it and polish it. done. i did this on a 737-300 in the flaptrack with 1mm lenses. Works fine. On the 11 there is still something to do, i guess i will polish them and then mask them. Pics of the finished thing will follow 🙂
  21. Aaaarrrrrghhh , i get old! forgot to do a few things... Cargo door is now to be done. there after i will do the body lights. there are 3 on each side, and i dont like decals of this stuff. So, i will add real lenses! Pictures to follow...
  22. Here you go... Problem is, on the EE MD11 these stiffener plates are panel lines, which is in any possible way wrong. 1. fill all panel lines / use CA glue or similar 2. after sanding, mask the stiffener plates. There are tons of photos showing how the spacing is. USE DYMO TAPE for horizontal maskings! this stuff is very stiff and doesnt bent, so you make sure your stiffener plates are in line with the fuselage and do not look like slalom/curves ðŸĪŠ mask the rest around it, so you dont waste the rest of your model. 3. use Mr.Surfacer 500 (NOT 100 or 1200). Mix it with Mr.Thinner thicker than usual - i would say 50/50. 4. apply with your airbrush heavy coats, kind if flooding, not too much but enough that it looks like a glossy mirror for the first seconds. give it more layers than usual. if you think it is enough, give it another few layers. try to distribute it evenly on the fuselage, otherwise some will be thicker and some thinner. 5. peal of the masks as soon as you finished spraying to minimize messy edges, which you normally would always have with heavy coats if you let it dry too long with masks on. 6. use some 1000 grid sandpaper or sponge, i would always recommend a sponge, cause it conforms with the fuselage tube and you do not sand of unevenly the stiffener. Do it again with a 2000 grid sponge. i suggest tamiya. taadaa, finished. any further ideas or tips?
  23. Thanx very much, comments and critics always appreciated! I did the same, had some people saying MRP is the best available, so i said lets give it a try and i exchanged my entire paintbooth and also spend a fortune 😄 PE parts only for the Pitots. The Metallic Details PE is crap... sorry to say that, but in generell if you see a few products from a company and there are a lot of incorrect designs, i dont use it, even if it appears to be correct on a specific one. The reason is, i dont have time researching EVERYTHING, so at a certain point i rely on the manufacturer that IF i use it, its all right! LIKE AUTHENTIC AIRLINERS - if you build this stuff, you know it is at least 95% of the original. PE-wise i think i will ask Authentic airliners for the pitots, all the Landing Gear stuff will be scratch build, i just dont know at what detail i am doing it. But i think i will include hydraulic lins on the strut etc. I should have known haha... but honestly Airbus does not tell these things in a Typerating and i always thought the dischargers are only outboard of any surface and not on the body. so thx for that 🙂 thanx Jeff, yes, i think you are right. It is the combination between details and doing the details right! i have seen many models where people attempted scratch built details and failed (in my point of view) , like things are overdone or they didn't respect the correct geometry of parts... especially with cockpits. the reason why i did that RCI thing was, that i was absolutely not happy with whats on the market if you want to build clear cockpits. And tell me what you want, but i think real cockpits are better then 3D stuff. in the end i m sure there are people saying the way i built it is not correct here and there... so its all a matter of taste and the way you see it. Every modeller has his focus on different things and so do i. Here are two pictures from my favorites...(THEY WERE MADE EARLIER IN THE BUILD) best regards and happy modelling Sini
  24. thank you for the kind words 🙂 will keep posting... i hope to get it finished until the 8th of Nov 😅
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