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About RCI

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    New Member
  • Birthday 05/17/1985

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    Berlin SXF

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  1. in generell the fit of this kit is not really tamiya like. to my great surprise the fit of the stabilizer was almost perfect. Angle and alignment was just the way it should be. not so with the engines. i expected something like this, and i hate gaps/clearances where there are none on the real aircraft ...thats why i never prefered the "paint wings before attachment" technique. but every modeller has his own expectations and views on an aircraft/model. So there was the big gap, the with right angle you could see the light through the pylon joint. i thought on how to fix it as a smart repair and specially to avoid painting again. So here i found a method that is really working well on a grey wing. the finished picture here doesnt really represent the improvement, but it is huge. i will do this again in the future... 1. mask it with tamiyas flexi tape - must be very accurate, the pylon seal is something like 0.3mm or so 2. apply Mr.Surfacer 500 , be generous but dont flood it 3. take off the masking tape as long as it is fluid 4. watch how the seal form it self into the gap the color is a bit darker than the wing grey, so it looks like there is still a shadow of the gap, but its not
  2. sooo... i have done all panel line washing, all weathering and post shading. went well so far. i decided to make this bird dirty, some of these old horses really look badly used so my one is not one fresh from the factory. after doing all this i came to the attachment of the stabs and engines. Eastern express wants me to take the plastic connections included in the kit, basically they are simple plastic locator pins. i dcided to not use them, caues they will just break for sure so i deicded to take their method but instead i was going for steel rods. much better! so what i did on the stabs was useful for these engines too... looks like this:
  3. Hi! they are kind of rigid, made of tinsolder, so you can form them afterwards. like it more than wire the tamiya stuff is not bad, but it can be hard to remove the excess. i think i will try some oil wash next time
  4. Hey Jeff, yes, i did. just the regular tamiya panel accent stuff. I will post some more pics of the gear tonight. also the metal leading edges are finished. they look quite ok, i switched to alclad and used 3 different shades. yes
  5. so, that thing is really massive, especially when it comes to polish. Landing gear is also done. will post some pics next few days. Added some hydraulic lines and used molotov chrome for the shock struts. i ll have to make some pics at daylight where the polishing is present. i m quite happy, allthough i messed the Nr2 intake a bit, have to repaint it in white, which is fine, cause i ll do the antennas as well in white. also Authentic airliners PE arrived, so these will be attached at the very last step. things to do now: - repaint Nr2 intake - mask and paint all leading edges with Mr Hobby Super silver - washing and post shading - attachment of gears and engines - attachment of antennas and pitots will see what i forgot
  6. haha thx for the idea, i have to say that i am quite experienced in fixing this stuff cause i keep breaking small parts all the time haha. actually your idea is quite similar to mine. i normally take a thin rod , like 0.75mm or less, drill holes in both parts and connect them with this rod. that usually works fine. however i will do this at the very end, cause thats keeps me away from breaking it again. once it is attached it shouldnt crash anywhere, so hopes are that it keeps its shape haha by the way, this technique is great if you want to show your model taxiing in a corner! So, after 3 days of work, i some managed to finish decaling except for the nose wheel doors. they are seperate. its really quite a task to decal the bomber, especially with the Authentic decals detail sheet... you have to cut out any necessary single stencil. In the end there was one thing missing, which is the red stripes near the avionics compartment - i ended up painting a clear decal and cut out the stripes. some of the old LU decals also made some trouble, they set and solve differently, allthough same fluids used. Some of the titles need quite some layers of clear coat, but thats another thing. So, just finished painting all the gear parts in MRPs boeing grey, next step either clear coating or masking tyres ...still a lot to do on the Landing gear. have a look at the depth in the cockpit, that is why i prefer clear windows.
  7. jepp and you are probably even righter than you think! cause this is the old fedex scheme before they revised some titles. progress is coming along... not really happy with the window frame, cause the masking is visible. cant change that, maybe it improves with the clear coat, otherwise i can live with it.
  8. so lesson for today: DACOs strongest decal solution is just too strong for these probably almost 20 year old Liveries Unlimited decals. The shrinking and wrinkle process is fine but they dont align properly. at least the tamiya stuff is able to fix it. so, i was a bit afraid of the big titles, but lucky me, all went fine. the white decal is ok, but not the best, i can live with that. i had to use a water bubble to level the stand and the aircraft, because the title on the tail is level with the fuselage but not with the No2 engine itself. i love doing these kind of things
  9. a little bit proud, cause with tons of work i finally managed to get the bird kind of alive! i m still thinking about the next step, it might be decaling.
  10. had a run today... here i was drawing the masks for the stabilizer guard, cut them with my silhouette and tadaaaaa... grey belly. but its not yet finished, cause i have seen that the belly is divided by 2 different shades of grey.
  11. Finally, allthough i missed my goal to finish it early Nov, i could make some progress. Yesterday night i repainted the Tail with a slightly lighter purple and now i m really happy with the result. some clean up still needs to be done, next step is the grey belly!
  12. oh dear.. not that i expected a perfect kit, but cockpit windows completely missed, no apu intake, and no landing gear. i dont understand their new way of doing things.
  13. thx phil! i always try my best, but building models takes sooo long i promise i will take it one or two further steps up with my next model. i always practice to improve all skills for some very special builds. learning here a lot from the military guys, they have lots of good techniques and this forum is just perfect to copy a lot of this stuff MRP calls them acrylic laquers. so actually i dont know what it really is honestly i prefer longer drying times, the quick ones usually leave orange skin or dust on large areas. even tamiya or gunze offer laquer paints...quite a few on the market
  14. haha indeed, but i think thats also due to the light on the photo. i will just give it a shade more purple.
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