silver911

In my experience I have found such ali from tins is too thin...with the disadvantage that it 'creases' all too easily. I have seen it used by many to good advantage for their needs...but for me...it suffers from a lack of strength/rigidity that I need in my work. Just my personal viewpoint. R

Yet more superb details...and you know how I love details Ron

Too kind B IMHO...your work in 1/24 equals mine in 1/12 comfortably...with your current build being a favourite of mine Ron

Thanks Rich The ali plate is 'litho' printing plate (a selection of which I sent to yourself...Wayne and good old Mr C some years back) and very easy to cut and bend/form. For the linkage...I simply bent it around the kit part with my fingers...and used a small pair of jewellers pliers for the 90 degree bends...cutting the excess away with scissors...and a quick sand of the edges to remove any burrs. Ron

Thanks Poul...and yes...worth the I effort I think Ron

Lovely attention to detail...with the interior additions taking the build to another level. Ron

Pleased you like the gear linkage Chris Front suspension mounts are a lot clearer in my mind thanks to Malc...just waiting on some hardware so I can continue with the modifications. Cheers Ron

Many thanks V it's a huge compliment that you like and wish to use my ideas in your own excellent work. Ron

Whilst still planning how I am going to do the front shock top mounts...I decided to tackle part of the cockpit tub...the gearshift. Once again...Tamiya's part falls short in terms of detail...this is all you get in the kit..... It's when you look at a ref of the actual 1:1 that you realise there is far more to this piece in reality..... Perhaps the most notable ommision is the second linkage below the main one...also...the mounting plate itself (with the rivets). Looking at the kit part...it was obvious I could keep the front block...and gear knob...but I would need to scratch the rest of it. First off...the mounting plate...this was made from thin ali sheet..... I then shaped it and drilled holes for some rivets...then removed the shaft section..... Next I fabricated the shaft from ali and brass tubing and a nut..... Followed by the gear stick..... Then it was a case of fabricating the lower linkage...again...a mixture of alii and brass tube...two 1mm eye bolts...and a suitable centre fitting...finally...the end connecting post was drilled through the main block..... This was disassembled and the rivets added...and final sizes cut...then it was a case of putting it all back together...and adding nuts etc. where needed..... Obviously it needs some wear and tear...with some colour to be added but...another detail sorted for the cockpit to be continued............

One word Dan...stunning! Nuff said 👏 Ron

From Dave... "Job done"..... And so...onto the next one............

Glad your along for the ride mate 👍 Ron

Glad it's of use to you V Ron

Yep...that is my hope Poul Ron

Continiuing on with more prep on the bodywork...this time the shroud and screen. As with the 312T...I wanted to add retaining screws to the screen...although Tamiya do hint at them...they are nothing more than miniscule bumps on the surface! With both parts having a lot of flex in them...the issue was to ensure there was no movement whilst drilling the holes for the fittings. My answer to this was...first tape the screen to the shroud...mark and drill the first hole...then insert a pin through the screen and shroud...which prevents any movement between the parts whilst drilling the next hole. Working from side to side also ensures the holes remain parallel. What you end up with is a 'porcupine'...but it works..... to be continued............

Many thanks Chris I am really pleased I found those UJ's 👍 Ron

Nice one Dave. As I have previously said...and having learned from my mistakes with the Ferrari refs...this time around I take nothing for granted...and won't include a detail unless I can quantify it with period correct (actual race) pics. I had the same doubt as you at first...however...I always thought that if no battery was used...they started the car from the engine and not the cockpit...although...as with your thought...I stand to be corrected. Cheers for input mate...always appreciated Ron

Continuing with the bodywork (clean-up/modifications/detailing). Because the body locks are supplied on the PE fret...I have been going round and removing them...although the moulded ones are good...doing it this way avoids the issue of trying to make them look good with paint. One detail that...as the kit would have it...just looks very wrong when done Tamiya's way! They supply the cover (bubble) for the gearshift area...which...when in place...does half the job..... Trouble is...on the inside of the cockpit shroud...it's just a flat panel...which really does spoil the effect..... A bit more drilling and cutting required. First I masked off the surrounding area...and using the kit part...I marked out where it fitted...then...allowing for the thickness of the kit part...marked out a template for drilling...followed by some careful scalpel work to remove the area..... Then just a case of gluing the cover in place. It needs refining and cleaning up...but better than a blank area as the kit portrays. Next up was the nose cone. Although moulded nice and deep...the two lower vents are solid..... Yet more drilling and sanding needed..... Another missing detail is the...what I assume is a socket for connecting to the cabin electrics...the socket itself..... A simple case of drilling a hole...then fabricating said socket..... I stilll have to drill the four holes for the mounting screws...make an internal mounting plate...and cut the socket to the correct length. Although this kit has fewer parts than the 312T...I have begun to realise the BT44b is far more complex...in that...all of this work is needed because the body panels will have to be completed (paint/decals/clear coat) before assembly can begin in earnest. to be continued............

So...with a better understanding of what needs to be done regards the front top shock mounts...I have taken the plunge! This is the kit as it comes..... My solution to removing the unwanted parts was...first to carefully run a scalpel blade down the raised sides of the 'bars'...and drill a couple of holes to remove some of the excess plastic..... Then I cut out the centre piece with my fine cutters...followed by some work with the scalpel blade and a micro chisel...and lastly a carefull sanding..... A test fit of the suspension frames shows a fair bit of clearance to fabricate the new mounts and get a good bond..... Next I moved onto the rear of the bodywork...drilling out the holes for metal bolts..... It was when I had them all drilled out...I spotted another error in the kit! Tamiya have a part that fits into the opening...which...when fitted...it sits beneath the top surface...and inside the holes I had drilled for the bolts.... Compare this to the 1:1...and you can clearly see what I am talking about..... The obvious answer being to make a plate from some ali...copy the holes onto it...and place it over the opening to test the look and fit..... Once the bolts are in place...along with the other bits...it should create a much better impression than the basic and incorrect kit parts/set-up. to be continued............

That makes more sense Malc In effect...very close to my own intentions. I will document each stage as I go...so all should become much clearer 😱 I kow it will seem a lot of work for little return to many...however...it kind of defeats the objectives I have set myself if I don't attend to this detail. Your help and advice is greatly appreciated mate. Ron

Hi Malc, in all honesty I am confused. I get what your saying about retaining part of the kit moulded detail...in as much as just removing the centre bar where the kit part would clip on to...although this leaves the issue of the 'painted blob' I explained to Nick. Also...I agree with your concern for load bearing strength...and it's this aspect of your idea that confuses me! How are you saying the top of the shock would be held in place??? Thanks for input. Ron

Hi Nick, if you look at how the kit shocks are made...with 'clip on' attachment points at each end...you will remember my penchant for removing them in favour of real metal connections that allow me to use bolts etc. Such as the rear shocks on the 312T..... Applying this mod to the BT44b would prevent me from being able to do that...because the kit moulded point will only accept said 'clip on'. Not only that but...no matter how good you are with a brush and paint...it will never look anything other than a painted blob. In creating the correct 1:1 style of attachment...I not only avoid the painting issue...but will also have a much more realistic looking set-up. Hope that all makes sense mate Ron

From Dave..... "Wiring is almost done, body is on the frame. Much left to do but the heavy lifting is done. LED’s have given me fits. Turns out 3v is too skimpy to run so many. I will add some voltage but I am concerned for my sub-miniature dashboard light bulbs."

Said it before...say it again...pure wizardry Dan...a real masterclass. Ron

To better show what I meant in the comments above regarding the lack of a chassis...the main component being the upper body..... Average thickness of the shell is 1.24mm...so very 'flimsy' as it stands...in fact...Tamiya require you to spread it apart when later locating the interior tub inside it ! 😱...(keep in mind that the bodywork will have been painted/decaled and clear coated by that time). Whether this will have a detrimental effect on the finished bodywork remains to be seen...although I haven't yet seen or heard any reports of such. Another area I have had to consider...what is missing...and what do I want to add in terms of missing details etc. Two of the primary issues are...1) the missing raised edge to the opening for adjusting pedals and the like...and 2) the simplistic moulded attachment points for the front shocks. The first is an easy fix...simply a strip of thin ali plate..... For the second...not so easy! It will require the removal of the moulded 'bar'...and the fabrication of a more accurate set up. Once again...I must thank my F1 'guru' Malc2...who helped me understand how the 1:1 set up is done...and from his advice...and a couple of pics he kindly sent me...I came up with this sketch of how it should look..... I had hoped the front suspension frames would provide and ideal locating point...sadly not...so I need to have a long think about how I can do this..... As you can see...they are a long way from where I need the shock locating points to be 🤬 Another area for detailing later is around the opening at the rear...I will replace the moulded stubs with bolts..... Lastly...a shot of the tub...suspension frames...and front and rear bulkheads temporarily in situ...effectively forming the chassis inside the upper bodywork...and also serving to tighten up the main component of the car. As you can see...not a lot of room to play with...and needing the bottom plate to tie it all together..... to be continued............