silver911

Good luck with those latches...rather you than me mate 😱 Stunning car and build. Ron

Many thanks Ian As said...this build is a painfully slow process due to not having a separate chassis like the 312T...so every little detail/modification has to be test fitted to the main body...which means constant assembly and disassembly of everything 🤬 Another issue has been the moulding...this kit...classed as a re-release...is not a new tooling...so suffers a lot from the aging of the moulds...with the decals also giving me concern for the future...as the few small ones used so far...being incredibly difficult to get off the backing! Obviously...had I not chosen to push the detail level so far...things would be moving much faster...but then that wouldn't be me 😉 Ron

Thanks mate...although nearer to brass than gold 🤣

Continuing on with my anal moments. Next up for modifying...the medical air tank...with the supplied kit part first... Having removed the simplistic valve (which is on the wrong side according to my refs)...a case of fabricating a more accurate version...and adding the missing one to the other end... You can see that the moulded bands and mounting pins have been removed...with new mounts scratched and ready for metal straps to be added after painting etc. Another kit part that I didn't like...too small...and poorly defined...a connector plate that sits next to the above MA tank... A lot more kit parts still remain to be modified/replaced...but...this all needs to be done before any painting begins. to be continued............

A stunning result mate...I really do like this one Ron

It would seem the key is in the spelling then Dave. One 'N' and it's a sea creature...two and it's as you describe. Ahoy an all that 🤣 An optivisor over close up glasses mate...and I still can't see clearly 🤬 Ron

👍🤣 No worries...a mate of mine always refers to it as a 'Binacle'...not sure why...as it has nothing to do with any form of dash that I know of 🤔 Ron

Many thanks for kind words Chris What does the 'IP' refer to? Ron

Quite simply...'breathtaking'. I am packing up my tools as we speak...time to find another hobby. Ron

Todays anal moment 😱 First...the kit part..... What I came up with..... An idea of size..... to be continued............

That is one huge compliment Dan...greatly appreciated Ron

Whilst adding some colour to the rear of the dash...and contemplating where I would route all the cables and wires once done...I came across a detail in a ref pic I had missed before!...that might just solve the problem..... This appears to be some kind of 'junction/switch box'...which will provide an ideal home for all the wires from the switches on the dash..... Having spent a couple of hours thinking about how best to implement this detail...this is what I came up with. As you can see...it has two 'inlets' for the wires...and a main outlet to route the whole loom back along the cockpit with the main cables from the dials...making it much easier to tidy it all up..... Now I can start on the wiring...and select an ideal place for the switch box on the side of the tub below the dash mounting to be continued............

Not knowing your skill set where painting is concerned...what I would offer is this..... When choosing colours to enhance detail...don't be fooled into using too bright a shade over a dark colour...i.e. silver over your dark metals would not look right...instead...use a colour a couple of shades lighter...in your case steel or iron over the gearbox. A lot of choices can...and should be made...using 1:1 ref pics...this is how I always work my metals. Another option are 'pin washes'...this being a better technique tha an overall wash in 1/12...which will serve to enhance difficult areas to reach when dry brushing alone doesn't give you the 'depth' you desire. Keep in mind though...dry brushing is for raised detail...with pin washes and overall washes being for the 'valleys' so to speak. Hope this makes sense mate. Ron

A shame that life is getting in the way of your bench time mate 🤬 Hope matters resolve themselves soon Ron

A work of art...pure and simple. Respect Ron

If I may...in using solitary colours...the only contrast will be a false one created by natural shadows cast by detail/lighting...which...in itself...can never reveal the true 'depth' of a given part. It's by using different colours and 'shades'...that we enhance said detail...and reveal the true depth of such. Even with a 1/12 kit of this complexity and detail...much of it will be lost when using a single colour or shade...which...given the cost of these kits...it's a shame not to use even a basic technique...such as 'dry brushing'...to bring out all that detail. Ron

Superb craftsmanship from start to finish Andy...stunning lessons on scratch work. Ron

The facia detailed with the correct layout and missing switches and labels..... time to turn to the back. The connectors Tamiya supply for the main instruments are somewhat over size...and nothing like the reality of the 1:1. I used 0.6mm Nickel rod and 1mm fittings to produce something closer to the real ones..... once they were made and fitted...I sleeved the cable connecting pins with a 0.8mm brass collar..... Next will be to cable up all the switches 😱 to be continued............

Glad to oblige mate Ron

Thanks Andy...a huge compliment...and much appreciated Ron

Thanks mate...glad your enjoying progress Ron

Pictures being worth more than words..... to be continued............

Stunning work as ever Dan...rather you than me tho mate 😱 Respect Ron

Having received the correct size eye bolts...time to start on the front suspension components...these are the basic parts to build and modify the front shocks..... First the bottom halves...a case of removing the kit 'clip-on' section...and replacing it with a metal eye bolt cut to the needed length and fixed with CA..... Then repeat for the top half..... The kit assembled shock comes out at 27mm in length...with the modified shock length coming in at a shade over 28mm...so I may need to cut the springs down by one coil for final assembly. Next up are the lower attachment frames..... The shock connects to the middle bar...so needs modifying to be able to use the eye bolt on the bottom of the altered shock. Using a new scalpel blade the bar was removed for replacing with some ali tube..... A bit of careful drilling for the ali tube (0.8mm)...and a sleeve for the eyebolt from 1mm ali tube..... Then a case of a trial fit of all the components..... For the final assembly I will insert a bolt at each end of the 0.8mm ali tube to completely secure it all..... This means it will have 3 layers of metal to hold the shock. The other two bars also need replacing with ali tube...to allow for metal connections at a later stage. Next up will be sorting the top mounts as discussed earlier in the build. to be continued............

There is no way you can contemplate covering up all that effort to achieve such superior detailing 😱