Jump to content

silver911

Members
  • Posts

    1,679
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by silver911

  1. Thanks Andy...a huge compliment...and much appreciated Ron
  2. Thanks mate...glad your enjoying progress Ron
  3. Pictures being worth more than words..... to be continued............
  4. Stunning work as ever Dan...rather you than me tho mate Respect Ron
  5. Having received the correct size eye bolts...time to start on the front suspension components...these are the basic parts to build and modify the front shocks..... First the bottom halves...a case of removing the kit 'clip-on' section...and replacing it with a metal eye bolt cut to the needed length and fixed with CA..... Then repeat for the top half..... The kit assembled shock comes out at 27mm in length...with the modified shock length coming in at a shade over 28mm...so I may need to cut the springs down by one coil for final assembly. Next up are the lower attachment frames..... The shock connects to the middle bar...so needs modifying to be able to use the eye bolt on the bottom of the altered shock. Using a new scalpel blade the bar was removed for replacing with some ali tube..... A bit of careful drilling for the ali tube (0.8mm)...and a sleeve for the eyebolt from 1mm ali tube..... Then a case of a trial fit of all the components..... For the final assembly I will insert a bolt at each end of the 0.8mm ali tube to completely secure it all..... This means it will have 3 layers of metal to hold the shock. The other two bars also need replacing with ali tube...to allow for metal connections at a later stage. Next up will be sorting the top mounts as discussed earlier in the build. to be continued............
  6. There is no way you can contemplate covering up all that effort to achieve such superior detailing
  7. In my experience I have found such ali from tins is too thin...with the disadvantage that it 'creases' all too easily. I have seen it used by many to good advantage for their needs...but for me...it suffers from a lack of strength/rigidity that I need in my work. Just my personal viewpoint. R
  8. Yet more superb details...and you know how I love details Ron
  9. Too kind B IMHO...your work in 1/24 equals mine in 1/12 comfortably...with your current build being a favourite of mine Ron
  10. Thanks Rich The ali plate is 'litho' printing plate (a selection of which I sent to yourself...Wayne and good old Mr C some years back) and very easy to cut and bend/form. For the linkage...I simply bent it around the kit part with my fingers...and used a small pair of jewellers pliers for the 90 degree bends...cutting the excess away with scissors...and a quick sand of the edges to remove any burrs. Ron
  11. Thanks Poul...and yes...worth the I effort I think Ron
  12. Lovely attention to detail...with the interior additions taking the build to another level. Ron
  13. Pleased you like the gear linkage Chris Front suspension mounts are a lot clearer in my mind thanks to Malc...just waiting on some hardware so I can continue with the modifications. Cheers Ron
  14. Many thanks V it's a huge compliment that you like and wish to use my ideas in your own excellent work. Ron
  15. Whilst still planning how I am going to do the front shock top mounts...I decided to tackle part of the cockpit tub...the gearshift. Once again...Tamiya's part falls short in terms of detail...this is all you get in the kit..... It's when you look at a ref of the actual 1:1 that you realise there is far more to this piece in reality..... Perhaps the most notable ommision is the second linkage below the main one...also...the mounting plate itself (with the rivets). Looking at the kit part...it was obvious I could keep the front block...and gear knob...but I would need to scratch the rest of it. First off...the mounting plate...this was made from thin ali sheet..... I then shaped it and drilled holes for some rivets...then removed the shaft section..... Next I fabricated the shaft from ali and brass tubing and a nut..... Followed by the gear stick..... Then it was a case of fabricating the lower linkage...again...a mixture of alii and brass tube...two 1mm eye bolts...and a suitable centre fitting...finally...the end connecting post was drilled through the main block..... This was disassembled and the rivets added...and final sizes cut...then it was a case of putting it all back together...and adding nuts etc. where needed..... Obviously it needs some wear and tear...with some colour to be added but...another detail sorted for the cockpit to be continued............
  16. One word Dan...stunning! Nuff said Ron
  17. From Dave... "Job done"..... And so...onto the next one............
  18. Glad your along for the ride mate Ron
  19. Continiuing on with more prep on the bodywork...this time the shroud and screen. As with the 312T...I wanted to add retaining screws to the screen...although Tamiya do hint at them...they are nothing more than miniscule bumps on the surface! With both parts having a lot of flex in them...the issue was to ensure there was no movement whilst drilling the holes for the fittings. My answer to this was...first tape the screen to the shroud...mark and drill the first hole...then insert a pin through the screen and shroud...which prevents any movement between the parts whilst drilling the next hole. Working from side to side also ensures the holes remain parallel. What you end up with is a 'porcupine'...but it works..... to be continued............
  20. Many thanks Chris I am really pleased I found those UJ's Ron
  21. Nice one Dave. As I have previously said...and having learned from my mistakes with the Ferrari refs...this time around I take nothing for granted...and won't include a detail unless I can quantify it with period correct (actual race) pics. I had the same doubt as you at first...however...I always thought that if no battery was used...they started the car from the engine and not the cockpit...although...as with your thought...I stand to be corrected. Cheers for input mate...always appreciated Ron
  22. Continuing with the bodywork (clean-up/modifications/detailing). Because the body locks are supplied on the PE fret...I have been going round and removing them...although the moulded ones are good...doing it this way avoids the issue of trying to make them look good with paint. One detail that...as the kit would have it...just looks very wrong when done Tamiya's way! They supply the cover (bubble) for the gearshift area...which...when in place...does half the job..... Trouble is...on the inside of the cockpit shroud...it's just a flat panel...which really does spoil the effect..... A bit more drilling and cutting required. First I masked off the surrounding area...and using the kit part...I marked out where it fitted...then...allowing for the thickness of the kit part...marked out a template for drilling...followed by some careful scalpel work to remove the area..... Then just a case of gluing the cover in place. It needs refining and cleaning up...but better than a blank area as the kit portrays. Next up was the nose cone. Although moulded nice and deep...the two lower vents are solid..... Yet more drilling and sanding needed..... Another missing detail is the...what I assume is a socket for connecting to the cabin electrics...the socket itself..... A simple case of drilling a hole...then fabricating said socket..... I stilll have to drill the four holes for the mounting screws...make an internal mounting plate...and cut the socket to the correct length. Although this kit has fewer parts than the 312T...I have begun to realise the BT44b is far more complex...in that...all of this work is needed because the body panels will have to be completed (paint/decals/clear coat) before assembly can begin in earnest. to be continued............
×
×
  • Create New...