CrazyCrank

Probably two arms except the right hand, usefull to hit the keyboard

@Pouln, your door handles are amazing But, if you accept a little criticism: the slot of the screw that feature the key housing is a bit unrealistic, because too wide, IMHO I wonder if you could modify that: for instance, filling the slot with heated welding wire, and then, sand, and then grab a shorter slot at the centre of the screw's head, with a micro conical-shaped milling bit ? Aniway, you entire work is very impressive and inspirational Best regards Thierry

Many thanks, @Roy vd M., for these nice words I hope it will be achieved correctly ant that it is finally, as beautiful as you can imagine

After having reviewed all my reference photos, particularly those provided by @Roy vd M., I decided to strongly modify the exhaust system, in its front and middle parts. The mufler had been already shortened, but the connection "plates" for the exhaust tubes in front and rear of it, that come in the Pocher kit are absolutely out of scale, and unrealistic ! Similarly, the right angled connections of the 2 exhaust manifolds on the principal exhaust pipe are very "comical". Normaly, according to my ref photos and with a T46 chassis picture that showed to us @PROPELLER in my Bugatti's thread on another modeler's website (ScaleMotorCars.com: http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/classics-and-vintage/115802-pocher-bugatti-type-50-coup-de-ville-surrection-16.html, post #232) , the exhaust manifolds connect to the exhaust pipe, following a curved shape, and not a right angle. And it is exactly the same thing for most of T50 chassis. On the Bugatti T46 the exhaust pipes run above the protecting plates (with louvers), and on the T50, they run under them Initially, as I've said on that website, I didn't want to modifiy my yet enhanced exhaust system, because it's a challenge and a lot of work. But I've slept on it, and found the means to make this job, without too great difficulties.. So, I've decided to scratch build all this small world, in order to be the closest as possible with the real car; I mean this one that is exhibited in Louwman's Museum. First: - The front exhaust pipe, connected at the front on front exhaust manifold and on the rear to the principal exhautt pipe, that connect itself on the mufffler backward, has been scratch built with a 8 mm copper tubing. To bend it to the right shape, iI've used my plumber bending tool. And I've got, step by step, this object: - The rear exhaust pipe,connected on the rear exhaust manifold and on the principal exhaust pipe, will be scratch build later, because a lot of measurement have to be done to draw it, once the front exhaust pipe is definitely in place. The piece of copper tubing I'lll use for that goal is the right angle bended one on the ficture above The pipe will be cut from the bended section of this tube, and will be shaped progressively Second:. The plates that close the muffler on its front and its back are disk-shaped. The mufler is 18 mm outer diameter and 16 mm inner diameter, so the disks will be 18 mm diameter and their indoor side will have a groove of 1 mm at their peripehry, in order to allow to slot the disk on the muffler-tube, as a stopper. I don't owe a lathe, but I've a milling machine and a dividing head attachment So, I've used this technique to cut theses disks: - Draw a 25 mm square on a 1.5 mm brass sheet - Draw the diagonals with a tracing point - at the intersection of diagonals, drill a 1 mm hole - then a 2, a 3, a 4 and a 4.5 mm holes - Thread M5 the hole ] - screw a M5 bolt in the hole and secure it with a M5 nut - Tighten [ - Cut the 25 mm square plate - Place the dividing head horizontaly on the crossing table of my milling machine - Insert a 2 mm milling bit in the collet - Place the M5 bolt between the chuck jaws and tighten them. - Move the crossing table in order to place the milling bit, exactly above the center of the bolt - Then move forward 1 mm (the half of the milling bit thickness) the crossing table on Y axis, . - Then move forward 9 mm more on Y axis - Move down the milling bit in order to drill 0.2 mm, and then turn the dividing head to excavate a groove. It will be exactly at 9 mm of the plate center. - Go on, following this step, moving down progressively the milling bit, until you have entirely cut the disk in the square brass plate [/url - Then, move up the milling bit, then move 1 mm backward the crossing table, and move down the milling bit. - Following the same process, you will cut a 1 mm peripheral groove of this side of your disk-shaped plate. And you get this: You'll have to repeat this step once more to get 2 disks Dry fit to test the plates on the muffler-tube: Third The connection between the front exhaust principal tube and the muffler, on one hand, and between the rear exhaust tube and the muffler on another hand, is done through, on both sides, two plates that are soldered on tubes and muffler, and bolted together. That means I'd have to scratch build, with my milling machine, four connecting plates. Each plate is a 12 mm square, drilled in ith center by an 8 mm hole, that will give passage to the exhaust tubes, and four M1 holes on the four edges. I've made a template in a 0.5 mm styrene sheet Then serious things began: Ouuuppps, too quick drill on the fourth plate Finally, I got this set of brass pieces With the muffler Dry fit on the copper exhaust pipe: Fifth One 12 mm squared plate has been soldered on the outer side of each disk-shapes "stopper" On the front end of the muffler, the plate is bottom offset. On the rear end, the plate is centered Then the 8 mm hole of the squared plates has been excavated in the disk-shaped "stoppers", using the milling machine It's necessary because, later, the exhaist tubes will cross through these two soldered plates Finally, I got this set of parts: Sixth Now, the two squared connecting plates have to be soldered on the exhaust tubes. This job cannot be made at the moment, because numerous measurement have to be done previously, particularly to determine the exact point of each exhaust tube, where the plate will be soldered to. So tries have been done. The plates that will be soldered on the tubes, have been bolted on their respective connecting plate on the muffler. The tubes have been presented on the Muffler The muffler has been fixed on the frame The rear exhaust pipe has been dry fitted on the muffler And the the front exhaust pipe And later, both tubes, on a bottom view A lot of work remains to do: - 1/ Scratch build the curved exhaust pipe that connect on rear exhaust manifold, and this is a BIG challenge. All measurement have to be done "by eye" (i don't know how to say in english "mesurer à l'oeil" ),and numerous tries have to been done. - 2/ connect (soldering) correctly this curved pipe to the principal exhaust pipe. Another challenge ! Will it connect with right angle, as on the kit, or with sharp angle, as on the real car ? - 3/ Determine how to shorten the plastic exhaust manifolds, to connect them correctly on the curved exhaust pipes. - 4/ Scratch build these connections. - 5/ Determine where to solder the squared plates on the two exhaust tubes and solder them. - 6/ Cut exceeding length of theses tubes - 7/ Metal prime thes front exhaust tubes, the muffler, and the connecting plates - 8/ Paint them Alclad Inox Steel - 9/ Matt coat these parts - 10/ Assembly the whole set on the frame, with removable connections and bolts - 11/ Repair little scratches on the "louvered" protecting plates, I've made during all these tests and jobs, despite of all precautions. - 12/ Take some pictures to remember the hard work Stay tuned if you like

My Bugatti's Features Exhibit Gallery has been updated on ModelMotorCars.com virual Museum: https://www.modelmotorcars.com/1932-bugatti-type-50t/ Many Thanks to Marvin Meit. If you visit it, I suggest you to take a look at all galleries, They are worth the effort

Protective (and decorative) shield has been achieved and fixed in place underneath the radiator's bottom. hereunder some pictures of "the beast" Next step: It remains to scratch build a nickel plated plug for the starting handle's hole. Stay tuned if you like

@roymattblack...you're too generous with me, really...It's very kind of you, but I'm not the only one here to deserve your praise. However, coming from you, I'm flatted. Thanks a lot

Thanks @rjfk2002 Yes of course ! I used a Frost electroplating system kit (Frost Restoration UK) with NiSo4 solution and Nickel anodes. The link to this website: http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint-coating-electroplating/automotive-electroplating/electroplating-kits.html

Thanks for your answer, Sam... Yes of course, it's a good reason to get a PD230, and of course, the size of the parts you can work on. The price with accessories exceed actually what I want to spend for such a tool, but it is one of the larges purchases of this year...

Thank you @Roy vd M. my friend for this kind comment Coming from you, I'm moved And I've no doubt about your skills ...it's a certainty you're able to do better (as I am now, after these tries)

Very kind of you, my friend May I ask you a question, @sharknose156 ? I remember, if I'm not mistaken, that you've purchased a mini Lathe , Proxxon brand...Is it a FD150e model ? if so, are you happy with it ? is there prohibitive limitations for a modeler's turning job ?

There is at least four other Bugatti T50 that have this "decorative plate" See this link: https://www.google.fr/search?q=bugat...r45uFC6cVa76M: . . Chantilly Arts et Elegance Richard Mille Concours d’Etat - Hommage à Bugatti And this one From: http://www.acam.asso.fr/fotos/fotos.php?ishome=3&dir=Bugatti&filenumber=65&filen ame=Bugatti-Type%2050-50T%201930.jpg&titre=BUGATTI and these one too, picked both on Automobileweb website http://www.automobileweb.net/index.p...erusine&img=17 Roasdster Paul Nee So, we can say that a significant number of T50 chassis had this plate under the radiator's bottom.

Sorry, Steve, I do not understand what you mean ! Chrome plating would it be more reliable than nickel one ?

Could you tell me more about that, please, Steve ?

After two tries of electroplating, and another phase of sanding and polishing, and using heated and cleaned solution of NiSO4, hereunder the result...Not totally satisfying but clearly much better .. No "orange skin" appearance, extra brightness, good reflection, no peeling It remains to glue the central black plate and fix the shield under the radiator.

Thank you very much four your support,Keith and Kpnuts Finally, I'm not happy with my plated shield. The plating began to peel off, so, I've sanded the shield to get the nickel out, and I'm going to redo the electroplating, with much more precautions

My electroplating system didn't work very well, don't know why, perhaps oxidized electrical connections. I used high voltage initialy 9 V, during an hour, then 3 volts during 4 hours. Result clearly unperfect, with light but visible "orange skin" aspect of the surfaces, but it can live with that The black central plate has been primed, then painted gloss black, then sanded with Micromesh 3600 to get a mat aspect, and reveal the metal of the central brass tube. I've put it in place into the shield, but not glued it yet...It's a dry fit at the moment Once glued, the space between plated shield and central black plate will not be visible anymore After fixing the shield temporarily on the frame, just to see.... Next steps: - Glue the central plate on the plated shield - Fix definitively the shield under the radiator - Scratch build a nickel plated plug for the hole of the black central plate Stay tuned if you like

Thank you very much Ron, for your kind comment It's a pleasure to share with passionate people

@roymattblack When I see what you're able to scratchbuild and the results you get, I think I had better breeding chickens As we say in French, "Je suis baba !" (Am astonished) seeing your model car

The centre plate has been drilled at the right place, and a little piece of brass tube had been glued with two-component, and will allow the starting handle to pass through, until the crankshat pulley Glue is drying slowly, allowing the adjustment of the brass tube position, if necessary.

The 2 holes at the bottom of my brass shield have been drilled, allowing a screwdriver to fix both shield and radiator on the chassis. The shield has been polished and is ready for nickel electroplating The central plate of the shiels, scratch build with 1 mm styrene sheet, is on the bench More to go this afternoon Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching

Dear Nick, you've got a fantastic car ! I've had the opportunity, thirty years ago, to drive during half an hour, such a racecar, and it still gives me the chills !

Thank you very much, @Roy vd M., for this amazing reporting. I'm very disappointed I was not able to visit this Retromobile show, and even more not having be able to meet you This Delage is a pure beauty, and, if I may say so, my next "True Love", once my Bug's chassis is achieved, with the Fiat 806 in parallel I hope you'll be able to share with us your technical photos, because several modellers here, will probably have the willing to enter the challenge to scratch build it....at least I do ! It would be also interesting, for those who will meet the challenge, to share the result of their works and skills, manufacturing multiple copies of some parts they made, exchanging them with other parts of this car, made by other modellers of this forum ?

It looks like a real bike Utterly amazing

Very kind of you, Pouln And what new about you great Alfa build ?