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Johnny, glad to see you back, great to catch up and it is turning into a stunner! Best, Erwin

Ed, tagging along if you don’t mind—if this is anything like your other rescues, there will be much to learn about the aircraft and how to accuracizie the kit—speaking of which, do you have any info on how Sword’s kit compares to the classic Airfix? I thought had heard the lines were generally accurate, but the details were wanting—looking forward to this—Erwin

Looking forward to how you move forward with this project—given the dynamics of the Typhoon’s operational environment, I don’t think you can really go wrong—better yet, I know you will make it right best, Erwin

Opus, this will be a cool build--FWIW, here is my build and research on Stapleton's mount. I too used the Bergun set, if memory serves me correct, I discuss their use in the threads below--I do remember the rocket fins took some time. Great books that might be of help are @Chris Thomas's Typhoon Wings of the 2nd Tactical Air Force and the Valiant Wings book (if you dont have them already). I am far from a Chris Thomas level expert when it comes to the Typhoon, but I think that the use of the Cuckoo Doors was very much dependent on availability & they were frequently not used in the winter of 44/45--please see Chris's comments in my research blog. Anyway, I have no doubt you will set another bar for all of us to reach for with your build--I look forward to your Sharkmouth Typhoon build! Best Erwin

Dennis, glad to see you back--really liking this build--you inspired to pull out my F6Fs for my next build! One question and sorry if I missed the run down--how did you work the weapons bay panel shading on the wings--your dark blue finishes are highly effective! Looking forward to the Avenger, best, Erwin

Elger, Incredible work! I had to do a double take on the nose windows--your plan of sorting this issue area worked out incredibly well on an unforgiving NMF finish--oh, and the Matchbox B-17 from back in the day was pretty cool Best, Erwin

Just joining in--already have learned a lot--both about building and the Short Stirling--thanks for sharing your work and I look forward to your progress... best, Erwin

Mark--looks great--I really like your use of foil, I have not used Bare Metal Foil in a while, but have made do with kitchen foil and Microscale Foil Adhesive--I think Bare Metal Foil looks better--really enjoying how you are sorting this out. Best, Erwin

Giorgio, amazing update and fantastic results. Quick question if I may, I notice that you dont make use of foil and I would have imagined using this medium could have assisted with creating a difference between some of the painted and NMF straight parts of the wing--I acknowledge foil is a tough medium on compound curve areas. Please dont take this question as critique--the finish looks amazing and I will likely try to emulate it in a future, I am just curious if you considered the foil medium and decided that you could achieve better results with metalizers--& if so, why? (I always learn from you) Speaking of learning, the jig you made for the canopy brace is a great idea--it is now in my hard drive and I will use it in the future. Thanks for posting this amazing update--Best, Erwin

Thanks to all who looked & appreciate comments from @opus999, @Jackson Duvalier & @giemme. Jackson, thank you for the comments on the figure painting--these are my first IJN figures since I really got back into modeling. Basically I took advice G gave me on my F-4 build (I believe) and started with a wash, from there I went to some of the Tamiya websites on how to paint figures--appreciate the compliment--best to all, Erwin

Johnny, 1st, so glad you are ok--its been a while. Speaking of a while, just found this thread--dont know how I missed it, but now tagging along if you don mind. I am getting 3D printer envy Best, Erwin

Ron, sorry about your loss--Erwin

Bill, wow--is this really the old Matchbox kit and 1/72? Amazing and inspiring work. Best, Erwin

I think you undersell your figure skills--I am glad I stopped by and will be joining in if you dont mind--this is turning out nicely--best, Erwin

Roger, You make Skua look good . Seriously, I learned a lot reviewing this build thread--both about the airplane and how you sorted issues out--well done! Best, Erwin

Happy New Year and I hope everyone is doing well. The Kate build continues at my typical glacial pace Inspired by efforts from @giemme, @The Spadgent, @billn53, @opus999 or @RidgeRunner I decided to paint on the Hinomarus, wing fold mechanism, anti-glare area and walkways to assist in future masking and weathering. My objective is to ensure that these look like factory applied markings that the depots or units who applied Pearl Harbor cammo colors attempted to conserve. First up is the black anti-glare scallop (note I removed the unglued cloth surfaces--Airfix did a great job with the tolerances here and simple friction is holding these parts in place). I used the picture of Hiryu's BII-307 as a guide and sprayed Tamiya flat black at 50/50 at about 10- 12 PSI from my Badger Patriot. Unmasked and with aircrew heads back on . Please note the firewall is masked and it will retain its aotake finish on the finished model. Inspired by one of @opus999's recent Japanese builds, I will paint on the Hinomarus. My goal with painting these markings is to replicate the rough "halo" @Marco1965 shared here of Pearl Harbor Kates in his build with silly putty, salt and chipping fluid. I just dont think this particular marking will look right with a decal added at the end of the build. Also, I do not think the decal will stand up to all the weathering if I put it on at this point in the build. This is also my first use of Colour Coates since I was able to acquire their thinners--really looking forward to this given all the rave reviews on this paint. Given that I do not trust my circle drawing skills, I sprang for some Dead Design Models masks and re attached the cloth areas for painting. As expected, Colour Coates preformed flawlessly at a 40 paint/60 thinner ratio at approx 10 - 12 PSI. Red-brown wing-fold mechanisms parts (I think this is what they are) and light grey walkways. Also note the torpedo sight The Kate's lines in a near factor scheme are clean and elegant--this feature was always clouded by the splotchy cammo schemes in the photos I have seen. I also am super impressed with painting markings--will be looking for opportunities to mask markings again in the future--however, finding masks for 1/72 markings seems harder than 1/48 & 1/32. While it will be sad to see the clean factory appearance disappear under cammo, I am excited to attempt replicating a heavily weathered, well maintained and field sprayed top coat of J1 Deep Green. I will be using AK Chipping Fluid and salt to assist in creating this effect. Look forward to everyones thoughts on where I can improve--again, Happy New Year! Best, Erwin

Painting a B5N2 from the Midway era requires a lot of research as much primary source evidence is missing or are USN photos taken during combat action--I think the goal of research for this subject should be to make one comfortable of color choices vice a definitive color choice as much more seems to be left to interpretation compared to some contemporary Allied subjects. To further complicate color selection, Hiryu's famous B5N2 BI-310 flown by Lt Tomonaga is a known Pearl Harbor strike participant but no photos exist of it--I hear Johnny @The Spadgent's wonderful lesson on photo evidence--once you think you cant find the photo & build the model, the photo you were searching for will turn up. It is known that many of Hiryu's Kate's were overpainted with a dark green topcoat to assist in their strikes on Pearl Harbor's shallow waters. Based on @Greenshirt's/@Marco1965 builds and @Nick Millman's comments on @coolhand's Kate Top Color thread along with his work on the Zero available for purchase/his SAM Combat Colours No 9: Mitsubishi Zero I decided this B5N2 was both well maintained and well used. The base photo I used of Hiryu's BII-307 around the time of Pearl Harbor seems to be relatively familiar to Kate enthusiasts, but I will link it below for reference. As I think my way forward, I think I need to shoot for 2 schemes--the factory applied Nakajima Amber Grey topped with unit applied IJN D1 Deep Green Black. The Deep Green will need to look worn, applied without primer and well maintained--indeed many of the blury stills from Midway of Kates appear to be more solid green vice patchy--this probably due to the nature of carrier operations--just compare photos of land based F6Fs to carrier based aircraft (albeit with only factory applied paint). I decided that the cowling would be what most term to Mitsubushi Cowling Color, as it appears from Nick's research this was an IJN standard for their aircraft. Given the overpaint, I decided that I needed to paint the Hinomarus, walk ways and red brown hinges/landing gear indicators. I also determined the fuselage area under the canopy was painted Nakajima Amber Grey at the factory and not overpainted in D1 green. With this as the plan I decided on the following paints: - Nakajima Amber Grey--MMP-110 Gray Japanese Zero Amber--very close to ACJ17 Nakajima Amber Grey (trying to use waterbase as much as possible) - Amber grey for cloth surfaces--Tamiya XF-11--I went with this as I was looking for a worn look on the cloth surfaces - IJN D1 Deep Green Black--MMP112 D1 Deep Green Japanese WWII--very close to Nick's D1 IJN Green Chip to my eye - Faded IJN Deep Green for cloth surfaces--a mix AK IJN D1 with Ak off white--looking for contrast - Tamiya XF-1--scalloped area befind engine - Cowling Colour (Mr Color)--cowling - Light grey XF-66 (Tamiya)--walkways - Red brown XF-64--hinges, landing gear indicators - ACJ20 Hinomaru Red--national markings As my goal is a well used machine operating from a carrier I turned to the idea of chipping the green topcoat while minimal weathering for the factory applied colors. In order to achieve this I will use chipping fluid and salt above the Japanese Zero Amber. My first step was a coat of Tamiya Aluminum to catch scratches and the like--also note the wire to replicate the front canopy rail (great thanks to @Marco1965 for pointing this noticeable detail that Airfix overlooked in his build) Not sure as to what canopy version I wanted, I decided to test and build my skills and mask all of them. I followed @Marco1965's build along with others from @The Spadgent, @giemme, and @billn53 and masked the interior framing given the complexities of an opening canopy's framing. Satisfied with masking and the elimination of scratches revealed by the aluminum paint, I sprayed on Mission Models Grey primer. I then pre-shaded using black XF-1 and XF-66 on some panels--I focused the black on the wings around the wing fold area along with the typical control flaps. I then painted control surfaces Tamiya XF-76 about 70% thinned and the overall Nakajima Amber. Of note, Mission Models are very unique with thinning--I thinned to about 40% with poly--I find consistency becomes difficult beyond this ratio. Next up will be the canopy install and factory details before moving on into green overcoat--thank you all for your inputs-- @opus999 will be happy to see a stencil to help with the unit applied paint scheme Best to all & always thoughts on how to improve or deepen my skills always welcome Erwin

@mark.au, @opus999 & @giemme--thank you all for the kind compliments--much more to follow & it is great to be back at the bench--best, Erwin

Hello everyone--its been a while, but we are back in the modeling sphere . Back to the Kate, which is what I imagine most of you are interested in . As reported by many, the Airfix kit went together like a charm--absolutely no issues with seams and the like on my build. I would point out that you place the fuselage halves around the cockpit centered in the wings vice sandwiching the cockpit and then attaching the wings. Given this unique assembly, I would advise dry fitting to come up with your plan to glue it together. In my case, I first cemented around the wing roots with Tamiya cement, then forward of the cockpit, rear fuselage and then tidied things up. The tail stabilizers went on with no issues and required no filler. Finally, I attached the front fuselage piece which has the firewall--this required a little sanding to blend, but no fillers of any kind. I also decided to go with the retracted flaps--this decision was driven by poorly molded extended flaps and a judgement call on whether or not Kate's used cloth or metal covered flaps. Airfix provides 2 sets of flaps, extended and retracted, however, on the extended flap option, Airfix omitted the fabric covering detail on one flap. Whether or not these flaps were fabric colored also appears to be a bit of a controversy as discussed in @Marco1965's excellent build thread below. I decided to go with the fabric covered flaps for my Kate based on evidence from wrecks, Osprey's book of B5N2/B6N units, Wings of the Rising Sun & Marco's excellent build. Given this decision, I used Airfix's retracted flaps which as a bonus are fully detailed as cloth covered flaps--I am happy to report they fit perfectly. Finally, I started the the landing gear wells. After looking at @giemme's & @The Spadgent's wonderful P-51Ds, I felt a bit like a slacker given the smooth nature of the Kate's wheel well. After reading @Nick Millman's books on Nakajima built Zeros, along with reviewing Osprey's book on B5N & B6N units/Wings of the Rising Sun, I decided to go with aotake (Tamiya X-13 x3/X-25x1) in the wheel wells over a base of Tamiya aluminum lacquer. I actually went back and forth quite a few times on this decision as both aotake and the underside color are used on excellent B5N2 builds. I think the bottom line is this an area of judgement for the modeler at this time. Next up will be painting--Johnny will be happy to see my 1st use of Flory Washes thanks to the good people at High Altitude Hobbies and & @opus999 will be in for a treat with marbling on this relatively complex paint scheme. Best to everyone! Erwin

Martin, things are well—thanks for asking. Silly question “This will be my first build without panel lines washed with Flory. Instead I will be pre-shading the panel lines etc.”. Why not use both? Is it the challenge—regardless I know that any way you choose to go will result in an amazing build—just curious as to the why—best, Erwin

Nice—I really like the restrained weathering—best, Erwin

Mark, just catching up—great work—in a spectacular the engines really stood out to me—best, Erwin

Just catching up elger—not much more to add—your bombers are always incredible! Best, Erwin

Mnord—great work and just catching up—really impressed by the engine work—best, Erwin

Well done—the Alclad work is impressive! Best, Erwin