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Coming along nicely Elger—best, Erwin

Opuss, hang in there—the paint marbaling looks great—quite inspirational—I think the NMF will become a stand out of this kit after a wash or 2–best, Erwin

What an update—now you have me inspired to take another look at those Academy B-17s in the stash—really like the framing. Looking forward to the wings—best, Erwin

Joining this impressive thread late—really looking forward to learning from you and the bench of talent who has latched on to this thread about the details of these WW2 aircraft in post-war service—best, Erwin

Johnny, stunning results—inspired me to start and finish mine—looks like I am following your RFI delay plans—now I feel guilty

G, as always incredible work—thanks for sharing how you sorted out the actuator—will attempt to leverage it in my next P-51 build—best, Erwin

CC—smooth paint work on these stunning models—I had no idea P-39s were tested on an aircraft carrier—wow—learn something every day—best, Erwin

Opuss, this looks great—I really appreciate the work going into the wheel wells (lots of other items your working are amazing, for what ever reason the well work caught my eye)—I was thinking of this build as I was looking at the Arma Hobby new P-51B instructions—you are proving that you can get a remarkable result with a strong classic kit even in the face of today’s superior molding technology—bravo! Best, Erwin

Joining up, I am sure there will be much to learn about the F-4 C on this build—best, Erwin

Incredible work—hard to believe this 1/72–thanks for sharing—best, Erwin

Bill, amazing work—great modeling skills and thanks for sharing—all this with great info on UK Phantoms—thanks for sharing this impressive work and journey—looking forward to more—best, Erwin

Thank you @opus999, @giemme, @mark.au, @The Spadgent—and everyone who liked this—I hope you all can see that I have attempted to utilize some of the tips you gave given me throughout the years. @opus999—I think this technique would work well with an Aleutian Tiger. For what it’s worth, I would stick with AK’s Worn Effects—I think their Heavy Chipping is too aggressive for a well used but well cared for airplane, especially in 1/72. Reference the Aleutian Tiger, when I was doing my P-40E research, I really wanted to do the Aleutian Tiger but I could never pin down to what items fully completed the witerization kits, so I went with the Hawaiian Deffender—check out the instructions for Hasegawa’s 1/32 P-40E Aleutian Tiger—it has a sprue of unique winterization parts—I think some of the more noticeable items around the exhausts could be made from scratch—especially given your skills G @giemme, I love Mission Models Paints—that said, the biggest issue I have with them is that from my experience when you thin more than 10% you need their poly additive. Also, I seem to get beading issues once I get to about 40% thinner even with their Poly additive— in fairness they warn you not to approach a 50/50 thin ratio. ( they also say you can use their paints for washes but I will stick with Flory wash if it works for me) That said, as you can see their paints thin out nicely with a ratio of 40% thinner or less with their Poly. Also, their grey primer is excellent, but I have not been very impressed with their metallics (it is me probably me)—given the results you and @billn53 achieved with AK metallics, I will giving those a shot @mark.au, for my mileage the cotton bud seems to work best in concert with other techniques—it might be that it’s new to me or perhaps I have too much of a 21st century eye. Regardless, I have to say that there was really no texture when using mission models paint and this paint/bud combo left a nice pattern—although I did apply them nearly dry Johnny @The Spadgent—thanks for your note, so much of this build is due to inspiration I got from your builds to go with the best info available and build—it’s a mind set particularly important for IJN aircraft—I am still twitching for revolutionary info to turn all my research around. I also appreciate how your builds have inspired me to try new techniques Regarding the silver, not much misses your eye . Originally, I had planned to do a chipping using silver for the airplane skin, red brown for primer, Zero Grey and IJN D1. After reviewing pictures and reading Nick’s books/articles on the Early Zero I became convinced that carrier based early war Kate’s factory finishes stayed relatively clean with very little chipping while the maintenance crews were in a constant battle to keep the unit or depot applied non primed D1 greens serviceable. Looking forward to using my bottles of Flory washes—yes, your amazing results convinced me to take the plunge with this build—hope to come close to your masterpieces. All that said, I am very happy to hear you and your family are on the mend. Best and thanks to all for your inputs and thoughts—best, Erwin

Inspired by Johnny's @The Spadgent awesome update on The Demon and the 3D Printer, I decided to show my incremental progress. G's @giemmework on his Phabolous P-51D (ok, he is a Phantom Phreak, did anyone pick up the reference ) I decided to airbrush the drift lines. 1st I applied some chipping fluid and salt--given the drift lines informed the crew on their torpedo runs, I reasoned they were markings painted on top of the D1 green when the units applied the D1 green. I then airbrushed these lines at about 12-15 PSI--Tamiya flat white thinned about 60 thinner to 40 paint ( @RidgeRunner would be proud) Also note along the wing fold lines, and control areas increased wear I am utilizing a tooth pick dipped water to activate the chipping fluid in a very fine fashion. I am toning down the patchiness a spell as I want to achieve a worn but well maintained look of a high operational aircraft in a very professional force--my understanding is the work of IJN maintenance crews was legendary and I imagine Hiryu's were highly experienced in mid-1942. Reducing the patchyness is accomplished with a cotton bud dipped in Mission Models IJN D1 paint and nearly dry before touching the model--I imagine this is a process I will use through the rest of the build. One last note on reducing the patchyness--Mission Models paint cleans up effectively with water, so it is very forgiving. I have also used a little around the national insignia to even things out. Next up will beating the drift lines and building/installing the engine. Thank you all for looking at this relatively brief update--hope everyone is doing well. Best, Erwin

Rob, stunning work—2d Patches is a favorite of mine, although I would not put my old Matchbox kit from my youth near this—inspirational work—best, Erwin

Opuss—solid work! Really enjoyed the head on shot—it looks hungry—we’ll done, best, Erwin

Johnny, stunning work—it is incredible what you are getting out of this classic kit—put it up with a new molding any day—more importantly, I am happy to hear you are healthy given the fall—there has got to be a better way to get a new iPhone. Best, Erwin

G, wow! The markings and metal finish is coming together superbly! Best, Erwin

Ed, so sorry I have been busy—meant to comment earlier—with Airfix re-releasing their F-80C this year,(at least that what I thought I heard) I will be turning to this build for inspiration and knowledge on the later version. In the meantime, well done—that grey looks slick and accurate! Best, Erwin

Wow—thank you all for the great advice. @Mike—thanks for de-duping my dual threads on the same subject. As for the F-100, I forgot Martin @RidgeRunner has done a few and the gang of @Tony Edmundson, @Paul Bradley, @72modeler, & @Ben Brown have sparked the next after market negotiation with my home boss. I am really looking forward to this build—I was looking @TheRealMrEd’s F-100 build and it is thread I am most familiar with. Do any of you chaps have recommendations for early F-100 builds—I am thinking metalizing this project will be a key part of the build—best to all & thank you again for the great advice—Erwin

Hello forum, Looking very long range to start a Trumpeter 1/72 F-100C and noted a lot of folks have used the Obscureo 1/72 F-100C wing/tail on their builds of this kit—they still have a website, but the last update is like 2018. Are they still in business and/or does anyone know where to purchase their products aside from hobby shows or bidding Thanks the advice Eein

Thanks Mike @72modeler and @Jackson Duvalier--appreciate all your help Mike @72modeler--I suspect you are correct about the Hasegawa kit compared to the Academy. My primary reason for building the Academy kit is I have it in my stash--I think I picked it up for under $10 a few years ago--now that I am an OCD builder, my efforts to improve the engine, cockpit and other areas will probably totally negated initial cheap price--but we do this for fun, right? I think the best F6F-3/5 kits in 1/72 are Eduard's --although in fairness I only have the Academy kit to compare them to. The 2 biggest issues I have with Eduard's effort is the lack of detail behind the cockpit and I think there are some key detail missing from the wheel wells (the hook for landing gear strut for example). I also think the F6F cockpit sill is best replicated by PE--it is unfortunate Eduard's Profipack does not include this part with kit PE (IP is included--big Profile Pack selling point for me are the engine wires). Here is the status of my initial questions--please dont hesitate to let me know if I am missing anything - Was White K21's Bureau Number likely 40428? Given White9 (Bu No 40427) by LT Vraciu is from around the same timeframe, I thought their might be a chance these newer Hellcats were rushed to the fleet June 1944. I also understand that ferry numbers were typically the last 3 of Bu No. -- Incorrect--likely FAA Mk1--that said White K21 is a late model F6F-3 for research purposes -- Not sure if the ferry numbers are the last 3 of the Bu No - Would White K21 have had a late production F6F-3 cowl? (bulge/no exhaust flap on bottom). I am thinking this would be an educated guess, but I am very interested in what others might think--I am far from a USN F6F expert--I am pretty sure there are those who know more than I -- Very late F6F-3/early -5 cowl (no bulge/no exhaust flap on bottom)--since we are bleeding into -5 territory, I believe this -3 retains the -3 canopy - Would the cowling interior on White K21 been Grumman Grey or YZC (believe relatively standard YZC cowling interior for F6F-5) -- Likely Grumman Grey - Would White K21 have been able to carry a drop tank -- Yes - On most combat F6F-3s, I have seen what look like hoses that loop up and down in the windows behind the cockpit--what were these. -- My research indicates there was a water/ethanol tank to support the engine in this area and these are lines to bring water to enhance engine performance Thank you @72modeler & @Jackson Duvalier--very helpful--always appreciate further points from you or anyone else--the F6F is a fascinating aircraft the more you get into it--best, Erwin

Thank @opus999, you are took kind--Johnny @The Spadgent is always a great source of high impact ideas the are spreading around the globe Thank you @ModelingEdmontonian--too kind @mark.au, thank you for your kind words, especially on the research--this project felt like it was to 2 hours in the books for every hour at the bench--I think my research skills are tad bit sharper than my skills--but folks like you are helping me close the gap @giemme--G, high praise coming from you @billn53--humbled you wonder consider taking a glance at my project given the high quality of all your builds @GlueDad--the Bear meme is awesome! Thank you for looking--best, Erwin @Jackson Duvalier--The poem makes sense except for the "Snowfall on cedar"--would love to know because I am sure it is cool Thanks Martin @RidgeRunner--I have you to thank you for sparking the starting point on this journey--you triggered this start with a "lovely build but did you consider putting thinner in your paint" on one of the 1st builds I posted--you truly intro'd me to constructive and awesome community we share--thank you. A few builds later, a total changeout of Airbrushes, and an airbrush booth later I cant think about starting a project without thinking about thinners for my airbrush--the good news is my marriage has survived this even though I am much deeper into the hobby than I thought I would be Best to all Erwin

Thanks Mike @72modeler & Jackson @Jackson Duvalier—all outstanding points—dang,I got the bulge completely wrong just like the Bu No’s. Very valid points on the Academy kit—that said, I have decided I am going to clean out my Hellcats—1 Academy and 2 (F6f-3 & F6F-5) from Eduard all in the same thread—excited to compare builds although I believe Eduard’s will be easier/more accurate. Will add more to this, regarding issues with the Academy kit, but I thought the biggest would be the cowling—sanding in the bottom exhaust flap and the cockpit/well detail is poor. Will spend some time exploring the recommended link and come.back with my better understanding of White K 21–maybe @Tailspin Turtle will have some input In the meantime—thank you both so much—this build is already off to a well informed start thanks to you both—best, Erwin

Hello everyone, I am rounding the corner on my F4F-3/B5N2 Midway build (linked below) and felt inspired to clean out the Hellcats in my stash. 1st up will be my 1/72 Academy F6F-3/5 Hellcat. Based on Detail and Scale and Valiant Wings reviews I am making the following modifications: - Rebuild cockpit (actually dropping in Eduard PE) - Use Quickboost Hellcat engine since the magnetos are missing on the Academy molding - External Eduard PE for Cyber Hobby Hellcat (engine wires, gear doors, oil coolers etc) In my research leading up to this build, I learned there are 3 major variations to Hellcat engine cowlings--F6F-3 early (bulge/exhaust flap on bottom), F6F-3 mid-late (bulge/no exhaust flap on bottom), F6F-5 (no bulge/no flap on bottom). Since I have had a lot of bad experiences with Academy kit decals, I decided to order Techmod's F6F-3 Hellcats and was drawn to White K 21 due to ferry markings on the cowling. This choice generated some questions that some folks with better knowledge than I might be willing to share - Was White K21's Bureau Number likely 40428? Given White9 (Bu No 40427) by LT Vraciu is from around the same timeframe, I thought their might be a chance these newer Hellcats were rushed to the fleet June 1944. I also understand that ferry numbers were typically the last 3 of Bu No. - Would White K21 have had a late production F6F-3 cowl? (bulge/no exhaust flap on bottom). I am thinking this would be an educated guess, but I am very interested in what others might think--I am far from a USN F6F expert--I am pretty sure there are those who know more than I - Would the cowling interior on White K21 been Grumman Grey or YZC (believe relatively standard YZC cowling interior for F6F-5) - Would White K21 have been able to carry a drop tank - On most combat F6F-3s, I have seen what look like hoses that loop up and down in the windows behind the cockpit--what were these. Linked below is the picture I am using of White K 21 https://www.asisbiz.com/il2/Hellcat/VF1/pages/Grumman-F6F-3-Hellcat-VF-1-White-K21-aboard-CV-10-USS-Yorktown-II-1944-01.html Thank you all for looking and making time to consider/answer my questions--and I apologize if there was easy to find info I missed Best, Erwin

Time to season things up (pun on the salt effect--sorry I did not know how to start this off) After catching up with Johnny @The Spadgent's update, I felt inspired to get into gear and post an update about my progress on the Kate combining Kosher Salt, AK Interactive's Worn Effects and Silly Putty and Tamiya tape. First, I masked the Hinomarus with the silly putty and the walk ways, anti-glare panels and wing fold (I think) bars with Tamiya tape. I used Silly Putty to create the effect of soft/worn masking around these marking at the unit level--rationale is I wanted to create a warn effect around factory markings while trying to achieve field painting conducted by a professional fighting force. Additionally, I attached the canopy because I did not want the IJN D1 Green in the interior underneath the canopy. I can not begin to thank @Marco1965 and @Greenshirt for their amazing builds chocked full of information and inspiration on B5N2s. I do believe the Hiryu's Kate's were painted by well seasoned carrier maintenance crews in 1941. Given this, I believe these unprimed but well maintained paint schemes used through the Midway operation in 1942 presented a different worn effect than those seen after the Imperial Japanese Navy had sustained grievous losses to both air and maintenance crews in late 1942 and after. I also note that, most pictures of Kates taken by USN photographers in 1942 show aircraft with rather uniform green (likely IJN D1) tops. Inspired by one of @opus999's Japanese aircraft builds, I also intended to use a camo stencil to further randomize the effect of wear and tear on a well used, but well maintained Pearly Harbor strike veteran operating at Midway in June 1942. One back and forth I went through was what to do the with the data plate in the back of the fuselage. After reviewing info posted in the earlier links along with info from Nick Millman on the Zero, I decided that if this was visible, the IJN D! Green would have been painted around it. While possible, I do not think that IJN crews would have over painted Nakajima's information and then reapplied. Regardless, I decided to go with my gut and masked a square in the data plate's location. Here are the photos: Canopy, Salt, Ak Interactive Worn Effects, Silly Putty, Tamiya Tape applied Mission Models IJN D1--thinned about 60% paint 40% thinner--4 drops of poly. Sprayed at 12 PSI from Badger Patriot 105 (medium needle) AK Interact IJN D1 Flaps (lightened) Initial masks removed--to touched up with AK Interactive IJN D1/Tamiay XF-11/Mission Models IJN D1 and chip with AK Interactive Worn Affects and white drift lines airbrushed on tail Overall I am happy with how this is turning out. Beyond the folks mentioned, I really appreciate @giemme and @billn53 who always post the learning points on their blogs. I would also like to thank @RidgeRunner many years ago for pushing me to thin my paint--what a journey you started I also want to thank Johnny @The Spadgent for his approach of going with what info you got and enjoy the build. While we can thank individuals like @Nick Millman for reducing the amount of guess work in interpreting Imperial Japanese WW2 aircraft, there is a lot more room for interpretation than I am used too--to my surprise, I enjoyed this aspect of this airbrush project. Up next will be chipping, and touch ups. 2 things I would certainly do differently on this build--1) Grind the kosher salt finer--as you can see some of the salt effect is a little pronounced for 1/72 scale for a early/mid 1942 Kate (in my opinion anyway) and 2) I think I will be on the hunt for a finer point airbrush and air control valve--I think these features would have come in handy for this portion of the build. That said, I am grateful for @opus999's build of a USAAF P-51B (Ironic) where he into'd me to using a stencil for marbling a monochrome paint scheme--this came in very handy in creating the worn IJN D1 effect. One other note, Mission Models paints work really well, but it is worthwhile practicing on scrap since thinning rations are less thin than other paints--at least per my milage. I know there are some well established Japanese aircraft builders out there and I am always amazed at the bench of talent on this blog--I welcome your thoughts on how to get better--I got A6M 2, 3 &5s hoping you will improve me . Hope this helpful to others. Best to all, Erwin