VT Red Sox Fan

Mark, REALLY late to this one—sorry. Simply incredible work—really liked your green pre-shade and the masks—will be circling back to that—I could go on & on—this build is a parade of outstanding historical research, great building/painting efforts, ingenuity and stunning results—following with interest—best, Erwin

Hope everyone is doing well--finally found some time to provide a quick update on my glacial paced Kate build. I hope Johnny @The Spadgent notices, but I used Flory wash for the first time--it is awesome stuff and will now be a regular addition to my builds. Not much to add to the forum's knowledge, it works as advertised and is VERY forgiving. I used Dark Dirt Weathering Wash for the general airframe and Light Weathering Wash for the darker cowling areas. Once the wash was complete I took the masks off the canopy (couldn't wait any more) and started to focus on finishing touches starting with control surfaces and Microscale Krystal Klear for the navigation lights. (These will be painted appropriate Tamiya clear color later) Once the overall airframe was washed, I focused on the wheel wells, landing gear, prop and cowling. I used Nakajima built A6M2 paint references from Nick Millman as the basis for interpreting these colors. I decided to go with an Aotake wheel well color based on Zero painting guidlines (I believe the controversy is if this area was painted the airframe color or aotake). Also, I decided to go with dull aluminum struts vice the gloss black struts on the A6M based on multiple period photos. I used foil for the bare metal/shiny shock absorbers and used the Eduard set for the oleos, brake lines and various interior bits around the well. Airfix did an amazing job with the landing gear on this model--the struts fit perfectly angled. With gear installed, I touched up over spray ares in the well and used various AK landing gear weathering products to add depth and wear. I went back and forth with using the gear doors supplied by Airfix, vice those in the PE set. In the end, I settled on the kit doors as the interior of these parts looked more convincing. While probably a smudge out of scale thickness, I believe the details on the plastic are more convincing as the photo etch looks too flat when compared to period photos. Once the gear doors were installed I used AK Kerosene effects around the fuel tank fueling points and around the underside's engine areas where oil would have likely leaked. The cowling went on perfectly with no hassles. I then used a technique I saw either G @giemme, Johnny @The Spadgent or Bill @billn53 use for attaching photo etch to their aircraft for this Kate's torpedo targeting sight. (Gents, apologize I cant remember who) First, I used the actual Eduard part to mark the location of the sight on the cowl, then drilled shallow pilot holes and finalized with CA glue. I then used CA kicker on a tooth pick to dry everything up. I then painted the PE sight and the glue areas Tamiya Flat Black given that my research indicated these surfaces needed to be non-reflective vice the deep glossy IJN blue/black cowling color. Finally I installed the kit prop (painted Alclad Aircraft aluminum in the front/ Tamiya Flat Black for the back of the blades--this rear blade color was a bit of a leap/judgement for me--I understand the A6M2 Zero prop back were generally a reddish brown--I nearly went that route, but given Hasegawa and Airfix both call for flat black, I decided to go with their research) Weathered gear and wheel well touch ups for paint over spray AK landing gear effects washes used and gear doors installed. Also kerosene stains for fuel points and engine leaks on underside Up next will be the Type 91 torpedo build/install and then the final touches. Thank you all for looking, patience with my pace, encouragement and your willingness to share knowledge and the joy of the hobby. Now if only I could find a shark mouth Kate to join @opus999's amazingly toothed Typhoon! Happy building--Best, Erwin

G, I love it--"nothing dramatic", while everyone is taking notes Seriously, I know this is not your most intense scratch work but I greatly appreciate you sharing your tricks in making some of these important details pop--bravo! Best, Erwin

Opus, looks great—really like the blue on main landing gear doors—the complete build is totally up to your typically high standards—best, Erwin

These all look great, will enjoy watching the Hurricane in Japanese hands come together—best, Erwin

Thanks @RidgeRunner, @giemme, @The Spadgent & @opus999 —really appreciate your inputs—best, Erwin

Really like how the P-51’s cocked turned out—really looking forward to the P-47 portion of the build, lots of great info here—best, Erwin

Opus, looking great—I really like the how the light tan areas worked out. FWIW, I think your marbaling looks just great—worn but well maintained, ie not overdone—which is easy to do in 1/72. You are striking a perfect balance—best, Erwin

Hello everyone, This entry will focus on building up Airfix's rendition of the Sakae 11 engine. While not a radial, I took inspiration from G's @giemme 1/32 Stuka build along with some of Martin's @RidgeRunner colorful builds. As I am learning, WW2 Axis aircraft require a certain amount of judgement on detail colors and I have done my best to outline base information and the inferences I have made. That said, I know there is a tremendous bench of talent and knowledge on this blog, so I welcome any perspectives on where I missed the bulls eye. I am always reminded of Johnny @The Spadgent when he said something to the effect that the correct info always appears after the final air brush coat I decided to base the colors of this Sakae 11 build on the A6M2's better known Sakae 21 engine. Given the paucity of color info on the early war -11, I decided the better known -21 would provide a good basis since it is from the same manufacturer (Nakajima), engine family and timeframe. For this build, I used Airfix's engine and first painted the exhausts crankcase and cylinders Tamiya AS-12 to create a metallic lacquer base for follow on enamels/acrylics on all engine parts. I then attempted to create heat produced discoloration on the exhausts by layering airbrush coats of Alclad Burnt metal, Alclad Jed Exhaust and Alclad Hot Metal Sepia. I then used Tamiya enamel wash on the cylinders--I was torn about this as I understand early war Sakae family engines had their cylinders painted black, but the book, Wings of the Rising Sun has really good Allied photos of the captured Alaskan Zero engine--the cylinders are clearly black but normal wear is seen on the cooling fins. This falls in line with what @Nick Millman points out in his Combat Colors No 9 on the Zero. In order to achieve the desire effect of darker cylinders, I simply applied multiple coats of Black Tamiya Accent Wash till I was at "the looks about right stage." I then brush painted the crankcase Mission Models FS 16473 MMP-102 and then painted the bolts in a NMF--I find Mission Models paints work out great brush painted for small details. The crankcase color choice was hard for me to make as some builds are silver while others are grey. In the end I did not go with a NMF crankcase as I believe this would have been unlikely this early in the war(I am no expert though). I then brush painted the ignition lines Alclad Airframe Aluminum--for some reason Alclad works well for me on small details. Following the basic colors, I then weathered the engine with AK Engine Wash and Engine Oil. I then used AK pigments to further build up the exhaust high heat area and attached to the airframe. I decided to paint the cowling Mr Color No 125 Cowling Color as it is pointed out in some sources that cowling color was an IJN standard vice manufacturer standard. Cylinders with photo etch leads Up next will be the cowling, prop, flaps, torpedo and wheel wells--hopefully, I might actually join @opus999 and finish my WW2 Japanese aircraft build. Thanks for looking and thanks for any thoughts folks might have--best, Erwin

Looking good so far opus—agree on the wing roots—best, Erwin

Dennis, just catching up—impressive—thank you for your dark blue weathering tips earlier—thanks for posting this incredible work—best, Erwin

What is there no to like about this—it’s an F-84 & it’s Martin—I am all I —this would be good—best, Erwin

G, as usual, amazing work—really appreciate the walk through on fixing the wind shield—I know it’s small, but I really like the gun sight—best, Erwin

Great builds and I really appreciate the discussion on the color choice assessments—I may have to get into Arma Hurricanes best, Erwin

Those teeth are rocking--this is a very interesting subject and spectacular build--best, Erwin

It’s cool to see the ongoing story of this airframe with the outstanding model build—best to all, Erwin

@BS_w—-most helpful—I understood the plate over the engine exhausts was to keep the engine warm, but never quite how it worked—now I do thanks to you! From an asthetic point of view, the use or non use of this plate is very apparent on Aleutian Tigers to my eye given the contrasts created by the yellow. I am familiar and a big fan of the http://aleutianplanes.com site. It’s probably me, but I have never seen plans to assist in creating the plate over the exhausts or perhaps none exist as it was a unit level modification. Thank you all for this Trevor trove of great info and sorry if I missed an obvious source—great thread Spitfire! Best, Erwin

Thank you all—this is very useful. After looking @TheRealMrEd’s amazing build below, I am curious if anyone has a recommended F-100C build thread utilizing the kit tail with the resin intakes/wheels it seems the team thinks is best. Again, thank you all for the help and making this fun—best, Erwin

@Spitfires Forever This is a great thread—thanks for starting it. One area that has confused me on Aleutian P-40s in the winterization kits—I have read these were installed, but I don’t know what they consisted of—& were they only seen on P-40Es? Best I can make out about what a winterization kit would consist of is a fairing over the first few exhaust stubs—thanks for the info and I hope I did not high jack the thread—best, Erwin

I can’t believe I have missed this thread for so long! Great run down on P-51D shades and I believe very useful for other projects—best to all, Erwin

This is a very useful thread with great points—I learned a lot! Best to all Erwin

Great mass production—question/thought, did these aircraft oppose each other while serving in these nations, if so it would be an interesting match up for a collection—sorry for the question/thought as I am not trying to hijack the thread—amazing work—best, Erwin

Amazing, now you have me wanting a Fuji kit instead of the Airfix I have in my stash—amazing work! Best Erwin

I am with Johnny @The Spadgent—great cammo—best, Erwin

You guys are doing a great job—love the cockpit framing—best, Erwin