fishplanebeer
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Just to add that apparently the very early Spitfire 1's fitted with the two canon did not have any machine guns fitted in the wing so the drawings already referred to will not help as they clearly show them still in place. Regards Colin.
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If as now seems likely the 'new' SH Harvard will in fact be a post war variant then my interest has diminished considerably as it was an RAF WW2 version I was hoping to make, so I may have to resort to the old Airfix kit again. Regards Colin.
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If Airfix ever get around to updating their 1960's F4U Corsair I'll definitely get one, especially if it can be built as a clipped wing tip FAA version to go along side the Tamiya F4U-1A I'll be doing in a few weeks time. The example at Yeovilton should provide them with a pretty decent data source if they decide to go this route so one could expect it to be pretty accurate and also fairly straightforward to build in keeping with the recent releases, with their A6M2b Zero being a little gem. We all have our own wish lists for Airfix including such types as the P47, P38, Fairey Battle, Meteor, Halifax, B29 to name just a few, plus any WW2 Italian and Russian aircraft and RAF inter-war types, but I think a new Corsair at their price point of just under a tenner would probably sell well. In this regard Revell may have done Airfix an unintended favour by making such a hash of their own offerings which are nigh on impossible for anyone other than an experienced modeller to build with any degree of success. Regards Colin.
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I recall that there was a recent post enquiring about the colour of the wing indicators on the Tempest and the conclusion was that at some point they were deleted in favour of the internal light system. Certainly the well known pic of a Tempest V series 1 coded JF+G undergoing re-arming and re-fueling (Typhoon & Tempest At War, pages 122-123) shows 'erks' walking/standing on the wing exactly where the indicator would have been so this would seem to bear this out. Regards Colin.
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I notice that in Hannants' description of the forthcoming SH Harvard they say that the main sprues are ex-Academy so presumably SH or Eduard obtained them at some point, unless they are working in collaboration with Academy now as well? Regards Colin.
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Most (some?) WW2 fighter aircraft seemed to have had undercarriage down indicators in the form of a rod that protruded above the wings surface and acted as a visible confirmation to the pilot that all was down correctly. This certainly seems to have been the case with he early Spitfires and the A6M2 Zero but I understand that with the later Tempests these were replaced by a light inside the cockpit instead. My question is were these rod indicators replaced with a light on later marks of the Spitfire, I'm thinking specifically the Mk VIII, or was this innovation never used on them? Regards Colin.
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This link is reassuring in that I'm not the only person to find this kit a complete nightmare, although clearly if you are skillful (and patient) enough a good result is possible, eventually. Personally I can't wait for my Tamiya 1A to arrive this week as at least it will be built before the clocks go back! Regards Colin.
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Many thanks, in which case to avoid another Revell experience I'll go after the Academy version instead. Regards Colin.
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One of the kits I'm looking forward to this year is the Special Hobby 'Harvard' in 72nd scale which apparently is based upon the previous AT6-G from Academy but with extra resin parts and new canopy to enable the British version(s) to be built. However I'm just wondering if the Academy kit is the same as the one also retailed by Revell in this scale as this is also the AT6-G version, so did Revell acquire the molds at some point possibly? Reason for asking is I'm also looking to build this version as well and both are available on E-Bay with the Revell one some what cheaper, but given my recent issues with the Revell F4U-1A Corsair I'm totally disinclined to go the Revell route unless some else was responsible for the molds and they just borrowed or used them and then put the kit under the Revell brand. Regards Colin.
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Thanks for clarifying, as you say they only have two to chose from although the thought about prop rotation and subsequent airflow over the wings is something I hadn't thought about Re' the painting I've always painted the final section aluminium as applying paint to this part it real life could end up gumming up the works but also never been entirely sure what colour to paint the first section as did they really very neatly apply the top camo colour to the top and then carefully mask off to apply the lower camo colour to the underside? I must say I'm not convinced about this so more often than not I paint all of the tube in aluminium. This way I can always claim that the paint, if any, has flaked off. Thanks again for the replies and sorry if it was a bit of a daft question. Regards Colin.
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Bit of a silly question perhaps but just wondering why most/many WW2 fighter aircraft always seem to have their pitot tubes on the port wing. It may just be coincidence as there are only two wings to chose from anyway but the Spitfire, Bf109, A6M Zero and P-40 all have them on the port wing so just wondered if there is any particular reason for this? Regards Colin.
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My Tamiya Corsair is now on its way courtesy of Hannants albeit at almost £20 and a fiver more than KK but about the same overall as I was about to order some other stuff from them anyway so now only paying one lot of postage, plus Hannants also have the essential Eduard canopy mask for it as well. I'm sure a more skilled, experienced and patient modeller than myself would be able to make a half decent Corsair from the Revell kit but you would still be left with replacing the prop and filling in those two awkward to reach recesses for the incorrect drop tank attachments if you are looking to make it a proper 1A. Not sure which decal schemes the Tamiya comes with but I'm tempted to use those from the Revell kit so at least it's saved me the cost of buying any after market decals which would probably cost as much as the Revell kit itself, so not a total loss after all. Regards Colin.
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Many thanks for the feedback, so Tamiya it is! My modelling skills are modest after a lengthy absence from the hobby (20+ years) and although I'm fine doing some fettling and filling/sanding etc. I'm after kits that generally fit together well and don't require almost every single part to be sanded just to get them to dry fit correctly. The Revell kit's parts breakdown is also overly complex , for example the cowling comes in 3 separate pieces excluding the cowl flap piece, the wing tips are separate for some reason, there are no locating lugs to correctly install the instrument panel and the pilot seat parts to the bulkhead, the top of the fuselage forward of the canopy is a separate piece entirely, I could go on, and on. To date I've built the Special Hobby P40D/E, Zvezda Bf109F-2 and Airfix A6M2b Zero and all have required some degree of adjustment but the Revell kit takes this to another level completely and seems to come from a previous generation, which probably explains the price, although the decals look to be good. My next kits after the Corsair will be the Eduard Spitfire VIII and Hellcat F6F-3 in 72nd scale which are also quite complex in terms of parts breakdown but which I'm fine with as I know the parts fit will be good, but when a kit is complex and poor quality I lose heart and interest and consign it to history. Thanks again. Colin.
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Being part way through trying to build the Revell F4U-1A I've decided to give up the ghost and find another kit as this one is quite the worst kit I've attempted to build for quite a long time. Admittedly I was swayed by it being considerably cheaper than the Tamiya offerings but this has turned out to be a false economy as the kit is truly awful with every piece having to be fettled, sanded and filled, and the quality of the parts and the fit are also extremely poor. In addition the prop is the wrong type/shape for a 1A and it also features two locating points for the drop tanks which were a feature of the 1D but not the 1A (so is it an A or a D?) Before potentially making another unwise buying decision can anyone suggest the best option please as Academy and Hasegawa are also possible alternatives given that I'm looking to build either a 1A or 1D version? Regards Colin.
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Judging by the early style carb intake along with the original non-pointed rudder I'd be inclined to go for a Mk IX and perhaps the MSG over PR Blue colour scheme as suggested along with a MSG (or possibly even red) spinner. Not sure I've ever seem a Mk VIII without the aero vee intake hence my inclination Regards Colin.
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Bear in mind that the Airfix Bf110's had a major flaw in that the engine nacelles extended too far back and incorrectly went over the flaps. Regards Colin.
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Alternatively you could consider using Colourcoats paints from Sovereign as they have both the Mitsubishi and Nakajima 'grey' for PH period A6M2's, and having just used their Mitsubishi 'grey' on my current A6M2 project the colour looks to be spot on. They also do the correct blue/black colour for Mitsubishi cowlings and fuselage decking. Regards Colin.
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Can CA glue be polished clear or is it essentially opaque when set?
fishplanebeer replied to TonyOD's topic in Modelling Tips
Micro Kristal Clear is also very good at creating clear lights and windows etc.. Looks just like pva and can also be used as a white glue but doesn't shrink and looks nice and clear and convincing when dry. Regards Colin. -
If like me you are competent with an airbrush but struggle to spray those fine lines or dread trying to apply camo schemes by-hand with no masking, especially difficult in my chosen scale of 72nd, I have a tip that I've just discovered by accident and which may help. My airbrush is an Iwata Eclipse with the .3mm nozzle and I can never get it to spray very much when the trigger is pull back ever so slightly regardless of paint thickness and air pressure but purely by accident I just tried to spray the canopy of my Zero with the interior colour first so that it will show inside after the external colour is applied. I'd somehow not fully seated the needle from my previous spray session so when I applied the air pressure a very fine and small amount of paint came out much to my surprise and delight. So my tip is to play around with the seating of the needle before you start spraying so that as soon as you apply air pressure you get a fine line straight away and you can then pull back on the trigger to widen coverage as desired. I may be teaching people to suck eggs here but with my fading eye sight and unsteady hands I now have a method of using my airbrush to its full potential at long last. Regards Colin.
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If your pc/device already has Windows installed it's likely to have One Drive which allows you to store and publish photos on-line, and it's free and not likely to go away any time soon! It will generate the required url for any picture that you want to add or publish. Not sure what its limit is in terms of total storage capacity but if you only post pics occasionally it's more than adequate and quite simple to use. Regards Colin.
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That would certainly explain why I've been unable to find any photos of the hook deployed. Notwithstanding absolute accuracy I'll attempt to show it deployed as it will add some extra interest as well as test my modelling abilities, just need to also add the undercarriage deployed indicators painted red (very small in this scale) and drill out the two inspection holes on the upper wings which were apparently perspex for inspection purposes and not metal as shown in most builds I've seen even in larger scales. Regards Colin.
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Thanks, the video shows everything that I need, although I'm still surprised that the hook part is still not that obvious or extended in any way in order to catch the deck wires, although clearly it must have worked. I think I just need to enlarge the hook element of the kit part slightly as it definitely seems undersized with the hook barely visible. And if my eyes and hands are up to it I could show in the deployed position with the retaining cable running from the hook to the arrestor hook bay! Not too sure about the colours mind as according to the research by Nick Millman the hook could/should be black and the inner colour of the arm Aotake or amber grey. Regards Colin.
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Hopefully my last question on the subject as the build is now coming along nicely but a bit confused by the arrestor hook in the Airfix 72nd scale kit as the hooked part hardly seems to extend beyond its cover at all and is only just visible. I'm therefore wondering if the hook shaft extended when the arrestor gear was deployed so that it would then be long enough to catch the deck wires but I can't seem to find any photos of a Zero coming in for a deck landing only ones of them taking off. If this is the case did it then automatically retract after landing as again I can't find any photos of a Zero where the arrestor hook is deployed whilst on the deck? Any clues please? Regards Colin.
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Mitsubishi Zero Fabric Control Surfaces Colour
fishplanebeer replied to fishplanebeer's topic in Aircraft WWII
This may be taking it a wee bit too far in 72nd scale but to obtain the contrast between the fabric covered parts and the metal airframe I'm thinking of applying matt varnish to the former and satin to the latter - this will be in addition to slightly lightening the fabric surfaces as well. Scale wise this may be too much of a contrast but I'll see what it looks like and I can always re-varnish if necessary. Regards Colin.- 23 replies